February 29 -- Leap year, comes once every four years. You could say we "leapt" into motion for an early morning departure from Mazagon, but very quickly realized that we weren't going anywhere with the thick fog. We waited until just after 9 a.m. and with on again, off again winds, we arrived in Rota about 5:30 p.m. The seas were calm and once the fog lifted, it was another warm and sunny day. Arriving, we were as usual famished. The moment the electricity was plugged in, I set to the task of cooking a chicken dish using most of the Portuguese spices we'd acquired. It was delicious. The marina put us at the end of a dock, believing that we were too big for a slip, so the price jumped from 14 Euro to 33 Euro.

February 28 -- The day was a near-perfect sail from Ayamonte, Spain to Mazagon, 34 NM. We started out with a fantastic breeze giving us about 8 knots, and then it dropped right off. At times, if it weren't for the slight current, we'd not have moved at all. By afternoon, the breeze picked up again, and we averaged about 5 knots on a broad reach sail. With the heat of the sun, the gentle lapping of the Atlantic against Big Sky, and the pleasant rocking, we hardly wanted the day to end. We passed plenty of fishing boats near Ayamonte, and as we neared Mazagon, we passed a number of oil freighters.

February 26 -- Today, Con ceremoniously lowered the Portuguese flag and raised the Spanish one, as we motored the one-mile trek across the Guadiana River to Ayamonte, Spain, leaving Portugal at our stern.

Four months ago, we didn't know what to expect when we arrived on Portugal's northern west coast, but Portugal is like a magnet -- hard to detach yourselves. It was a beautiful day for our last stay in a beautiful country. The mercury rose to 25 degrees today as we sauntered over to Spain. I took the wheel from Con to dock Big Sky, as I really ought to get more comfortable fitting her into tiny spaces. There was a bit of a current running, and after three attempts we tied on. At one point as we neared the dock, I looked from the helm to see if we were close enough and saw Con calmly stretching (nearly into the splits) with his tip toes on the dock. I held my breath as it looked like he'd be doing a beautiful belly flop, but he managed to climbed back onto Big Sky.

If you've seen pictures of the Guadiana River, you wouldn't come out refreshed! Once tied on, I jumped off Big Sky to help Con tighten the lines and a Spanish sea gull delivered a perfect dropping on my left shoulder. This is the land of my oh-so-bad second language-studied-for-four-years Spanish, so when announcing to the waiter that we were ready "listamos" he asked me what language I was speaking. I announced to him "Spanish." This may be a challenging country for the Spanish people we encounter as they'll have to put up with my version of Spanish.


February 25 -- We wondered around Vila Real de Santo Antonio today. We were puzzled at how a band of gypsy's can just set up camp in part of the Super Mercado parking lot.

The Portuguese Communist Party has a pretty nice looking camp.

..
We love this photo of the ever bearing Orange Tree. You can barely see the blossoms; the green oranges and the ready-to-eat orange ones.
In the background, you can see Big Sky's mast from main street. And, another photo of Big Sky; it's the boat in the front.

Not often, but on occasion language barriers trip us. For instance, we settled on a shared meat and vegetable soup for lunch. Checking the menu further, Con announced: "Oh look Barb, Cream de Cocoa soup too, we must have that for dessert. It's very famous here, they're known for it." We ordered it, and the fish soup pictured below arrived. I don't think they make chocolate soup.



February 24 -- We took advantage of our weather window early this morning, and left Vilamoura for our 7 1/2 hour sail to Vila Real de Santa Antonio. The winds were strong, the sea was rough and the skies poured rain and a few lightening bolts.


But, today was our best choice, otherwise we'd have had to stay in Vilamoura another week or so. Looking out Big Sky's window, we can see Spain across the River Guadiana as we're tied up in Vila Real de Santo Antonia, Portugal. Tomorrow will be our last day in Portugal as we explore this quaint little fishing village, fashioned after Lisbon.

February 23 -- Video of our trip to Evora
See our photos and video

We were tourists once again, exploring the medieval towns, visiting the Alentejo Esporao winery, and tasting traditional foods. Tomorrow, we set sail for Vila Real de Santo Antonio.
February 23 -- Repairs were completed and once again, Big Sky is in perfect sailing condition for our departure Sunday. While we're waiting for the right sailing weather, we rented a car for three days to explore Portugal's inland western Alentejo region. Alentejo literally means "beyond the Tejo" the River Tagus and the region has its own beautiful unique character. It's the region of sheep, pigs, olive and cork oak trees, grapevines, tomatoes, sunflowers and fields of wheat and oats.

We set off Thursday morning for Evora, the capital of the Alentejo region, travelling 200 kilometers or so to get there. On the way, we passed breathtaking towns built on the moutains where the Guadiana river flows through. Pictured above, the beautiful fortified ancient town of Mertola, once a bustling Roman centre until the rivers silted up and their town nearly slipped away into oblivion. All the houses are built traditionally (simple) and whitewashed. The cobblestone streets are pristine clean.

Lemon Trees

Evora has a rich history tracing back to Iberians. It's enjoyed its share of wealth, with kings, and dynasties setting up residence. It's loaded with Roman ruins, cathedrals, and palaces.

We're on our way to the Spanish border to take in some winery tours. Some of the best wines are made in this region.
February 18 -- Our grandson Nolan Ryker Holmen just one day old. Congratulations Bridget and Kris! Nolan is in Cliff's arms (Kris' dad).


February 17 -- We woke to rain and strong 33 knot winds. We put on our rain gear and trekked to the Vilamoura Marina breakwater. With the strong winds and the sail-like clothing, when I lifted my arms I thought I could take flight!

February 14 - 16 -- We got the email at midnight. Brit (our eldest) announced that at 3 a.m. February 14th she started to feel the first contractions! Our first-born grandchild was on its way! We took the cell phone to bed with great big grins on our faces. Early in the morning, Nick called to say that Brit and Kris had now gone to the hospital. We were guessing that by 10 a.m., we'd get the announcement. The cell phone was never out of our hands. Con carried it to the shower that day, we carried it to the grocery store, I put it in my back pocket while vacuuming, had it on the shelf while preparing dinner, placed it on the table when we shared a glass of wine with neighbours, took it to bed again -- still no call. Half way through the second day of waiting, Con set up the internet phone and began calling. For Brit and Kris, the hours were taking their toll. The doctors decided for Brit and the baby they ought to do a caesarian section, so at 9:15 a.m. Saskatchewan time, baby Nolan Ryker was born at 7 pounds 12 ounces, 22 inches long. CONGRATULATIONS BRIT! KRIS! AND WELCOME BABY NOLAN!


Kris & Brit on their wedding day

February 13, 2008 -- With Valentines Day tomorrow, we stocked up on local flowers from the once-a-week-Gypsy Market in Quarteira. The strawberries were $2.50 Euro for the whole crate! Yesterday, we bought a whole pineapple for .99 cents Euro, and of course, oranges, clementines, lemons and grapefruits for Euro pennies.



February 11, 2008 -- We've walked around Vilamoura and the small neighbouring town of Quarteira. These shanty-styled shacks seem to be occupied by the fishers, and are located in prime real estate, between the ocean and the town. Perhaps not for long, as machines were working the rugged land between the shacks and the massive hotel complexes just out of sight of this photo.

Vilamoura boasts of having three of the Algarve's most famous golf courses. The whole Vilamoura marina is surrounded by huge hotels catering to English golfers and people of affluence.

February 7, 2008 -- The sail makers arrived this afternoon to take a look at our jib problems.

Peter got to the top and reported that the wires have untwisted. Usually they look like a rope, wound tightly together.



See video

February 6, 2008 -- The winds were already creating a challenge for our route east. Traveling along the Algarve to Vilamoura the Levente (easterly winds) were blowing at 10-15 knots, making a sail directly to Vilamoura impossible. Con plotted a course to take us south then we could tack northeast and use some of the Levente winds in our sails to take us into Vilamoura. We were ready to put up the sails, so I turned Big Sky east, into the wind, the position for raising the sails. Con said "okay Barb, take up the main." I pushed the button, but nothing happened. The deck hardware was on, but all the buttons were dead! Con in his very calm, methodical manner began to investigate all the electronics, pulling out manuals, testing here and there. I maintained our into-the-wind position (east) the direct route to Vilamoura. After about 30 minutes, Con remembered he's hit the "red" button earlier that morning by accident. Now we know what the "red" button on the cockpit podium is for -- it overwrites all the deck hardware. He hit the button again, and a moment later, the sails were up. I corrected our course south. All was going well, when the jib clew popped. That's the ring that holds the jib sheets. We furled the jib and I tied a bungy around it to keep it from flapping.

It was an incredibly bumpy ride into Vilamoura and about one hour in our trip, I began feeling the familiar sea-sickness coming back and had to lay down.

Arriving in Vilamoura, we attempted to take down the jib, but the sleeve -- once again -- wouldn't come down. There's another problem there that we'll have sail makers tackle.

Morning: It's a beautiful day to set sail east to the lively town of Vilamoura from our home here in the Marina Lagos (pictured below).

We rejected Vilamoura months ago when we visited by car, because of the too-touristy feel and decided to lodge here in Lagos for the past three months. We're both really happy with our decision, as Lagos has really grown on us. We rented a car and toured the Algarve before Christmas, and since returning from our Christmas in Canada, we've been socializing with the many live-aboard sailors living in the marina. Some people arrived for the winter 10+ years ago and just never left.

February 2, 2008 -- The first Saturday of each month is the Gypsy Market.

We bought our usual fruits and veggies at the regular market then walked over to the Gypsy Market.

The market is always entertaining, especially with the livestock.
This rooster was rejected by the woman for the one below.
The vendor was not happy about that, especially because the rooster took a good nip at his hand. If anyone is wants to start a society for the "Protection of Roosters" you can use this video below.

See video

Push play and wait for it to load.

January 30, 2008 -- Three months ago, we backed Big Sky into our comfy Lagos Marina slip and she's not left. Early this morning, however, we took her down the narrow waterway to the Atlantic for a fun sail. The ocean was beautiful, smooth, and blue; there was a wisp of a breeze and it was a warm one. We put up the main and headed toward the Grotto and dropped anchor for lunch.

The water was so clear, that we could follow the chain to the anchor 7 meters below. After lunch, we pulled out the fishing gear, but nothing bit thank goodness, because we hadn't decided who would pull the fish off if there had been one, let alone clean it.

We have found that Portugal usually has a pleasant afternoon breeze for sailing and today was no exception. As Con says: "Barbie, it's as good as it gets." We had smooth water, 7 knots on a beam reach, healing at 20 degrees. About 4 p.m., we headed back to the marina. We'll remain here in Lagos a few more weeks.
Video: January in the Grotto. Push "play" to activate and double click the screen to enlarge.

See video

January 29, 2008 -- We're in our third month docked in Lagos, the sunniest spot in Europe, with highs today in the mid 20's. Lagos has a population of about 30,000 people, but we're told that in a few months 150,000 with tourists. We thought there were an exceptional amount of restaurants for such a quaint little town. Tomorrow, we'll take Big Sky out for a sail. Con has been plotting our courses for the next few months, which should take us along with Spanish coast, through the Straight of Gibraltar, then into Morocco, Africa. One Moroccan Dirham is .8 Euro cents, or .13 Canadian cents. I think it may be a bit more affordable there. We'll see in a few weeks.

January 27, 2008 -- The mercury rose to 26 degrees in the cockpit, but a truer temperature for Lagos today was just about 20. In all of Europe, only this corner of Portugal and northern Africa are experiencing such weather. After scrubbing the boat, we cleaned and headed to the beach bar and learned it was closed until March!

Here's a tip if you ever travel to Portugal, for some reason, stretching in public is considered rude. Good to know, we'll have to watch ourselves.


January 26, 2008 -- It's market day in Lagos. We've loaded up on oranges, clementines, tangerines, apples, tomatoes, tons of avocados, lemons, and a bunch of these strange sweet fruit that looks like an avocado.

Oh, there's more, almonds, figs, garlic, lettuce, carrots, cauliflower, a jar of honey, all for under 15 Euro!

The Saturday Dutch newspaper was in the marina concession early this morning. How does it get here that fast? Con is soaking in the Portuguese warm rays, having just had a good-looking haircut, compliments of his wife!

January 25, 2008 -- Con and I are now settled back on Big Sky after six weeks in Canada. We plan to enjoy Lagos for a few more weeks, then head toward the Straight of Gibraltar.