Above, Tal Mahal, the Water Palace in Jaipur, privately owned.
December 4 -- Today, we are enroute to India via Lisbon and Munich. India has always been a fascination for me; Con has had great experiences there having visited many times for business, but this us a first for me. India is the seventh largest country in area, but the most populated, passing China's population in 2023. 1.46 billion people!
December 5 -- Jane kindly drove us to the train, we got off at the Lisbon Orient station, and promptly called an Uber -- fail. Thirty minutes later, we tried another Uber -- fail. Finally, we hailed a cab to the Airport Meliá. Ummm, "You're booked at the Orient Station Meliá. " Ooops. Back into another cab, we finally checked in for just a few hours sleep, as we were back in a taxi for the airport at 4:15 am. By 2:30 am India time, we touched down in Delhi. By 4 am, we were asleep in a nearby hotel, having been escorted by our airport representative, Deepak.
Following a few hours of sleep, we were out in the smog-filled city with the same airport driver and a new guide. How can I describe this city, and the beautiful people, especially the smiling friendly children.
While in India, our private tour will take us to Delhi, Jaipur, Agra, Gwalior, Orchha, Khajuraho, Prayagraj, Ayodhaya, and Varnanasi.
From Varnanasi, we fly back to Delhi for our flight to the Maldive Islands, where we'll enjoy Christmas in the Club Med.
Following a few hours of sleep, we were out in the smog-filled city with the same airport driver and a new guide. How can I describe this city, and the beautiful people, especially the smiling friendly children.
While in India, our private tour will take us to Delhi, Jaipur, Agra, Gwalior, Orchha, Khajuraho, Prayagraj, Ayodhaya, and Varnanasi.
From Varnanasi, we fly back to Delhi for our flight to the Maldive Islands, where we'll enjoy Christmas in the Club Med.
December 6 -- Our driver Sandy and guide Gagenda met us at our hotel, and we set off for a street money changer, (a person in the Mahatma Gandi memorial park). We received a better price, and we're told it's legit. (Later we learned that it wasn't a better price, as the rate was 3 and 4 cents better elsewhere.)
At the park, I was surprised and curious why a small girl, about 6 wanted my picture. Later, many people wanted my picture taken with their children. Google explains that it's because I'm a novelty and have a different look and culture. While visiting Asia's largest mosque, Jama Masjid, I really stood out, because I had to wear the neck to foot cover. We parked by the Red Fort, a political landmark, and walked exactly over the spot where less than a month ago, a car bomb killed 20 and injured 15. The noise! The crowds! The honking! Aboard a rickshaw, we were driven through the Chandni Chowk market. Organized chaos, or maybe mad chaos. The spices were so strong in the Khari Baoli market that Con and I sneezed and coughed our way through on foot. It was a fabulous day.
At the park, I was surprised and curious why a small girl, about 6 wanted my picture. Later, many people wanted my picture taken with their children. Google explains that it's because I'm a novelty and have a different look and culture. While visiting Asia's largest mosque, Jama Masjid, I really stood out, because I had to wear the neck to foot cover. We parked by the Red Fort, a political landmark, and walked exactly over the spot where less than a month ago, a car bomb killed 20 and injured 15. The noise! The crowds! The honking! Aboard a rickshaw, we were driven through the Chandni Chowk market. Organized chaos, or maybe mad chaos. The spices were so strong in the Khari Baoli market that Con and I sneezed and coughed our way through on foot. It was a fabulous day.
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December 6 -- Our two-night hotel, The Claridges Hotel is luxury in the heart of Delhi. We stepped out and Sandy (male) our driver was ready with the SUV door opened and soon met our next guide, Manu. Manu shared layers and layers of Hindú, Islam, Christian history and many other religious history because, THAT’S INDIA. Manu says the Indian history is being rewritten now by the Indians, as many civilizations over the centuries have distorted. It’s the oldest civilization, with evidence dating back to 70,000 BC. Hinduism is based in astrological science, likely shared by previous civilizations, like during the age of the pryamids.
December 10th -- Following our welcome dinner, and by about 2 am, my stomach started to reject its contents. Prompty every two hours for the next 10 hours, I was hanging over the toilet. I believe it's "Delhi Belly". I thought I'd been careful with what went into my mouth. By 11 am, we were on the road to Jaipur, a six- hour drive. Sandy's first stop at my request was for Gaterade. It came to 50 euro cents. Arriving in Jaipur, I was moved by how dirty it was and yet how beautiful at the same time. Garbage is everywhere. They say, just throw it in the street, the collectors come. There are no bins. Plastic bottles everywhere.
Jaipur, "The Pink City" is the capital of the Rajasthan state. Building are made of a terracota colour and 150+ years ago, they were all painted pink, to welcome the then Prince of Wales and it continues to be painted pink today. Streets were designed wide, and symetrically. Founded in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh, who was pronounced smarter "by a brain, plus a quarter". He had crazy vision, especially as it pertained to the Observatories, creating Jantar Mantar, where he built instruments that told exact time, horoscopes, zodiacs, all as it worked in time with the earth's rotation and where the sun's shadow fell on his instruments. They still stand today and are accurate within seconds! As we made our way through the City Palace, past City Hall, to the fort, then to view the Water Palace, and many street-side sites, we were taken to a place where stones were cut into fine jewelly. Yes, I bought a beautiful bracelet. Then, we visited our second carpet store (first one in Delhi). And, yes, we purchased a carpet. Both of which we are very happy. By the end of the day, we turned down the elephant ride down the hill on its back, from the Amber Fort, because to us, it seems insulting to the elephant.
Today, we left the hotel at 9 am for our five-hour drive to Agra. We stopped near Agra to visit Fatehpur Sirki, a fort, and also a Mugha's palace, and then checked into an upgraded suite at our lovely hotel.
How can I share how mad the driving is. This is day 5 and already seeing cars, trucks, motorcycles, and cows come down one way highway the wrong way seems quite natural. You honk to change lanes, and to squeeze your vehicle where there's a hole. And then it's the side-saddle passengers on the motorcycles, with a baby between the man and her body, and an infant in one arm, groceries in the other. Her beautiful sari blowing in the wind behind the whole affairs while weeving in and out of vehicles and the many decorated trucks. Yes, the trucks are personalized with fake tree twigs and streamers tied to the side mirrors, down the sides to the bumpers and the back ends are colourfully painted too. Bold block letters spell out: HONK PLEASE.
Jaipur, "The Pink City" is the capital of the Rajasthan state. Building are made of a terracota colour and 150+ years ago, they were all painted pink, to welcome the then Prince of Wales and it continues to be painted pink today. Streets were designed wide, and symetrically. Founded in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh, who was pronounced smarter "by a brain, plus a quarter". He had crazy vision, especially as it pertained to the Observatories, creating Jantar Mantar, where he built instruments that told exact time, horoscopes, zodiacs, all as it worked in time with the earth's rotation and where the sun's shadow fell on his instruments. They still stand today and are accurate within seconds! As we made our way through the City Palace, past City Hall, to the fort, then to view the Water Palace, and many street-side sites, we were taken to a place where stones were cut into fine jewelly. Yes, I bought a beautiful bracelet. Then, we visited our second carpet store (first one in Delhi). And, yes, we purchased a carpet. Both of which we are very happy. By the end of the day, we turned down the elephant ride down the hill on its back, from the Amber Fort, because to us, it seems insulting to the elephant.
Today, we left the hotel at 9 am for our five-hour drive to Agra. We stopped near Agra to visit Fatehpur Sirki, a fort, and also a Mugha's palace, and then checked into an upgraded suite at our lovely hotel.
How can I share how mad the driving is. This is day 5 and already seeing cars, trucks, motorcycles, and cows come down one way highway the wrong way seems quite natural. You honk to change lanes, and to squeeze your vehicle where there's a hole. And then it's the side-saddle passengers on the motorcycles, with a baby between the man and her body, and an infant in one arm, groceries in the other. Her beautiful sari blowing in the wind behind the whole affairs while weeving in and out of vehicles and the many decorated trucks. Yes, the trucks are personalized with fake tree twigs and streamers tied to the side mirrors, down the sides to the bumpers and the back ends are colourfully painted too. Bold block letters spell out: HONK PLEASE.
December 11th -- Taj Mahal
In the pre-dawn, we walked the quiet, wide tree-lined red clay sidewalk toward the Taj Majal's giant gate. Sun wasn't to show itself for another 20 minutes. Monkeys were restless in the trees overhead as we cued in the "foreigner's" line. The sun began to show, and the gates opened. A few steps further, we turned south walked through the enormous Islamic portal and my heart skipped a beat. The view completely grabbed hold of my emotions in a rare inner explosion of awe at the perfection before us. I can easily say, that the Taj Mahal is the most beautiful architectual structure I’ve seen. Its artistic perfection is stunning. And, it's enormous. Completely symetrical, the Islamic style, using water reflection is enough, but there’s more. 30,000 elephants brought marble 300 km from the north, and precious gems were brought in from around the world to be ground and fitted into the chiseled marble so that when the sun hits it, it sparkles and differently for each angle. Sixty-six gems are used in one flower. I'd have to check with Google for how many flowers there are, but likely thousands and thousands. The pose is called, "The lonely princess Diana" because she sat exactly there.
In the pre-dawn, we walked the quiet, wide tree-lined red clay sidewalk toward the Taj Majal's giant gate. Sun wasn't to show itself for another 20 minutes. Monkeys were restless in the trees overhead as we cued in the "foreigner's" line. The sun began to show, and the gates opened. A few steps further, we turned south walked through the enormous Islamic portal and my heart skipped a beat. The view completely grabbed hold of my emotions in a rare inner explosion of awe at the perfection before us. I can easily say, that the Taj Mahal is the most beautiful architectual structure I’ve seen. Its artistic perfection is stunning. And, it's enormous. Completely symetrical, the Islamic style, using water reflection is enough, but there’s more. 30,000 elephants brought marble 300 km from the north, and precious gems were brought in from around the world to be ground and fitted into the chiseled marble so that when the sun hits it, it sparkles and differently for each angle. Sixty-six gems are used in one flower. I'd have to check with Google for how many flowers there are, but likely thousands and thousands. The pose is called, "The lonely princess Diana" because she sat exactly there.
The Taj Mahal is the happy money maker for India, with 20-30,000 visitors a day. It was never a palace, always a mausoleum built in the 17th century by the Mugal Emperor Shah Johan for his beloved 4th wife (he had some believe 7 and many consorts), who died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. She had three wishes on her death bed: build me a beautiful mausoleum; take care of the children (8, since 6 died in child birth), and never marry again. There were four sons, and when the Emperor fell ill, the youngest son killed his brothers and put his father, once he regained his health, in prison in the Agra Fort to seize the thrown. A staunch follower of Islam, he had many mosques built around India. He also grew the military to the strongest in the world, at that time.
Below, we visited the Marble Factory where descendants of the Persian builder of the Taj Mahal still operates since the 17th century. All the precious rocks are shipped in from around the world and are hand ground into beautiful gems and then fitted exactly into the chiseled marble. The Emperor, a muslim, had scriptures from the Koran embedded into the marble as seen in the photo above.
Below, we visited the Marble Factory where descendants of the Persian builder of the Taj Mahal still operates since the 17th century. All the precious rocks are shipped in from around the world and are hand ground into beautiful gems and then fitted exactly into the chiseled marble. The Emperor, a muslim, had scriptures from the Koran embedded into the marble as seen in the photo above.
Walking around Orchha -- The Indian people are so kind and inclusive and their hellos and namastes are contagious.
Orchha's main temple, the Ram Raja Mandir where Lord Ram is worshipped.
Orchha's main temple, the Ram Raja Mandir where Lord Ram is worshipped.
December 12th -- Waking before the birds, thanks to hungry mosquitos in our Orchha hotel room, we dragged ourself out the door to the sounds of piped-in Hindu chanting. Breakfast, sorry to report, was not something my stomach would like, so best (for me) to have black tea and a hard-boiled egg. Our hotel was near the Betwa River in the centre and northern part of India. Orchha was established in 1500, a perfect place to build a fort, as the river at that time surrounded the town. We visited temples and the sanctuary, Sunder Mahal, Raj Mahal, and the Chattris, the tombs of the Maharajas. That afternoon, we caught up on sleep during the drive to Khajuraho.
December 13th -- Two nights in Khajuraho, now in the "Heart" of India, the place that sees so many honeymooners from India. It's the place where Kama Sutra is celebrated. Kama Sutra is the Hindu name for all information on sexual human pleasure, positions, behaviours. Our guide for the morning was very happy to shine his light on the many finely detailed carvings on the Hindu temples of eroticism. "See here, this is 73, this is 69, this is 14, look, look, here is 43." So, look, look, below in our pictures.
The temples are is such good condition, having been built in the 10th and 11th centuries, because they were swallowed up by the jungle for hundreds of years. When the Islam arrived in the 15th century, they distroyed most of the temples, but didn't know about these. The British were hunting in the jungle and viola, found incredible treasures. The first temple is 92 percent original. The morning quickly warmed to 25 degrees, making it a pleasant walk to admire the craftmanship in the thousands of carvings. Later, we visited the Jain temples, where their leader never wears clothes, shoes, hat, nada.
The temples are is such good condition, having been built in the 10th and 11th centuries, because they were swallowed up by the jungle for hundreds of years. When the Islam arrived in the 15th century, they distroyed most of the temples, but didn't know about these. The British were hunting in the jungle and viola, found incredible treasures. The first temple is 92 percent original. The morning quickly warmed to 25 degrees, making it a pleasant walk to admire the craftmanship in the thousands of carvings. Later, we visited the Jain temples, where their leader never wears clothes, shoes, hat, nada.
Sweet hard-working girls let me take their picture; a 70+ year old mango tree ; and a banyon tree. Did you know that the banyon gives oxygen all day long.
Up before the birds--again--I carefully chose my breakfast, not wanting my stomach to do a repeat performance as in Delhi. Con's stomach has been good with everything.
"Namaste", hands in prayer to everyone and we set off on our nine-hour journey from Khajuraho to Prayagraj. It was not for the faint of heart. Our smooth-riding SUV was like being on a 1950s tractor. There were many detours to avoid potholes, and--I can't even begin to list them all--on the dusty narrow 1.5 laned two-way toll road. Okay. I laugh to myself calling it "two-way" because anything goes! Entering the road is pure chaos. Cows everywhere, trucks passing trucks, and a motorcycle or two with 3 or 4 passengers squeezing in between. Usually a car or motorcycle coming toward us going the wrong way, and mini sized human or ten crossing the road far behind an adult. The moving vehicles from all direction just zig and zag and honk, honk, honk, honk...
We wound up up up through the Pana Forest, the place where the Pana Tiger roams and Black-face monkeys hang out by the roadside. We traveled through fog and smog, both happening at the same time. Pana City, small and populated, seems poverty stricken, despite being the home of emerald gems.
It's winter, temperatures reached 25 but we never saw the sun. The many fruit trees have done their job until next April.
About four hours into our adventure, we detoured to Sandy's family village. It's about as rural as it can get, but not ghetto. Proud family members shared about three or four places all connected through open walk ways. The family was kind and inviting, but, "no thanks" to food or drink, and that came from Sandy.
Arriving in Prayagraj I had that instant sense that we should have by-passed it. It's a sacred pilgrimage place and the fusion of many religions. In fact, it holds the largest congregation of devotees, situated at the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati rivers. It's noisy, crowded, and dirty, packed with so many friendly people, hoping for a little conversation and pictures.
Our hotel is in the centre of noise. Well, the centre of honking. Walls are like paper. Our comfy pampered life isn't used to this.
Up before the birds--again--I carefully chose my breakfast, not wanting my stomach to do a repeat performance as in Delhi. Con's stomach has been good with everything.
"Namaste", hands in prayer to everyone and we set off on our nine-hour journey from Khajuraho to Prayagraj. It was not for the faint of heart. Our smooth-riding SUV was like being on a 1950s tractor. There were many detours to avoid potholes, and--I can't even begin to list them all--on the dusty narrow 1.5 laned two-way toll road. Okay. I laugh to myself calling it "two-way" because anything goes! Entering the road is pure chaos. Cows everywhere, trucks passing trucks, and a motorcycle or two with 3 or 4 passengers squeezing in between. Usually a car or motorcycle coming toward us going the wrong way, and mini sized human or ten crossing the road far behind an adult. The moving vehicles from all direction just zig and zag and honk, honk, honk, honk...
We wound up up up through the Pana Forest, the place where the Pana Tiger roams and Black-face monkeys hang out by the roadside. We traveled through fog and smog, both happening at the same time. Pana City, small and populated, seems poverty stricken, despite being the home of emerald gems.
It's winter, temperatures reached 25 but we never saw the sun. The many fruit trees have done their job until next April.
About four hours into our adventure, we detoured to Sandy's family village. It's about as rural as it can get, but not ghetto. Proud family members shared about three or four places all connected through open walk ways. The family was kind and inviting, but, "no thanks" to food or drink, and that came from Sandy.
Arriving in Prayagraj I had that instant sense that we should have by-passed it. It's a sacred pilgrimage place and the fusion of many religions. In fact, it holds the largest congregation of devotees, situated at the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati rivers. It's noisy, crowded, and dirty, packed with so many friendly people, hoping for a little conversation and pictures.
Our hotel is in the centre of noise. Well, the centre of honking. Walls are like paper. Our comfy pampered life isn't used to this.
December 15-16 -- Above, we entered Prayagraj, a city not visited many outsiders, but millions of Indians make a pilgrimage here, making it the world's largest congregation of devotees. The area is considered holy and sacred as three rivers converge, Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati. Our tour organizer couldn’t find an English-speaking guide, so we followed our Indian guide, a bit in circles, as he didn’t know what to do with us.
Moving further easr the next day, we entered Ayodhya, another Indian pilgrimage city, only open a year ago to tourists as the Lord Hanuman Garhi temple has been refurbished and open by Prime Minister Modi. We joined thousands of devotees in a long procession, barefoot toward the Hanuman idol, but not until we locked up all electronics, including smart watches, and presented ourselves for a search, frisk, and five separate passport controls.
Moving further easr the next day, we entered Ayodhya, another Indian pilgrimage city, only open a year ago to tourists as the Lord Hanuman Garhi temple has been refurbished and open by Prime Minister Modi. We joined thousands of devotees in a long procession, barefoot toward the Hanuman idol, but not until we locked up all electronics, including smart watches, and presented ourselves for a search, frisk, and five separate passport controls.
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December 16 -- Arriving midday in Varanasi, having survived our drive through thick smog and fog, we stepped out of the car and took a breath of the dastardly air. Pollution is an enormous problem here, and clean up seems more challenging than this cou try can handle. A new guide (English speaking) joined us for the Ganges Aarti, (prayer) a deeply spiritual ritual on the steps (ghats) of the Ganges River performed by five young priests. An interactive worship began at sunset. Our guide arranged chairs for us right on the river edge where behind us thousands were sitting on the steps. The event involved a choking amount of burning incense, pots of charcole, burning candles, all waved in a delicate dance by the priests, as they honour and cocus their worship on the idols (their sacred representation of God). I covered my mouth and nose with my hanky so I could breathe without coughing. The devotees were clearly moved by the spiritual energy, shouting, singing and chanting. I clapped along, picking up their energy. Microphones blasted song loudly, bells were ringing, hand chimes clicking, well, really anything that made noise was taking place. Our guide said, a few years ago, 20,000 would come each day, now there are 200,000 arriving.
December 17 -- Up before sunrise, we made the trek again to the river on foot through the busy streets, dodging traffic and cows. The sun was rising, shining its rays toward the waterfront buildings and ghats. Devotees were in the water, bathing, scooping handfuls of filthy Ganges to allow the sun's rays into their palms and then cleansing their bodies with it. Some were drinking it which made my gag quietly. Our guide arranged a boat, and the three of that traveled the six km-long Varanasi waterfront. We stopped at a sacred cremation area to wtch some of the ritual. A family living on the Ganges is and has been the sacred holder of fire for 700 years. Its that flame that is used to burn the Ganges-soaked bodies. By the way, the Ganges is one of the most polluted rivers in the world with untreated sewage and industrial waste being dumped into it.
December 17 -- Up before sunrise, we made the trek again to the river on foot through the busy streets, dodging traffic and cows. The sun was rising, shining its rays toward the waterfront buildings and ghats. Devotees were in the water, bathing, scooping handfuls of filthy Ganges to allow the sun's rays into their palms and then cleansing their bodies with it. Some were drinking it which made my gag quietly. Our guide arranged a boat, and the three of that traveled the six km-long Varanasi waterfront. We stopped at a sacred cremation area to wtch some of the ritual. A family living on the Ganges is and has been the sacred holder of fire for 700 years. Its that flame that is used to burn the Ganges-soaked bodies. By the way, the Ganges is one of the most polluted rivers in the world with untreated sewage and industrial waste being dumped into it.
