2007 Diaries
Beginning Our Great Adventure
April 25, 2007 -- We launched Big Sky today! We arrived at the Nauticat Yard in Turku in our rental just as Big Sky was being loaded on the back of a truck for its two-hour slow drive along country roads to the sea. Six men in orange coveralls stopped just five minutes from the shop, pulled into a mall, leaving Big Sky in the parking lot looking awkward, but not as awkward looking as us as we sprinted out of the rental to follow the guys. A moment later, they were all sipping coffee -- the Finns never miss a coffee break. Fifteen minutes later, they were on the road, stopping often to pull out street signs and various poles in order for Big Sky to fit on the narrow streets as they made their way to the sea. With the rain falling, Big Sky was gently placed into the dark waters.
April 28, 2007 -- Big Sky was scheduled to be outfitted, mast placed and rigged, systems checked, and knowing it would take a few days, we set off by train for our pre-planned trip to St. Petersburg, Russia. It took at least a month to coordinate our entrance into Russia beginning in Canada with a hotel reservation in Russia, followed by a formal invitation from the hotel, and our passports sent to Ottawa for our Visa. We arrived in St. Petersburg well into the dark of the night, not sure which taxi to take, having read that they were run by the criminals and nefarious people, Con said, "Pick one." I did. We piled in and sped through the fog-filled streets while the Moody Blues played in his cab, arriving at a beautiful hotel overlooking the square. It felt good, finally slowing down from our months of busy work getting ready for our big adventure. We were finally relaxing. Hand in hand, we lazily walked through St. Petersburg's historic streets taking in the architecture, the hustle and bustle around us, with a purposeful destination to the Dvor Metro Station. The station claims some of the most fascinating embodiments of Stalinist style and ideals. We had to see it, and successfully purchased tokens despite lots of miscommunication with the lady behind the window. Randomly with no destination in mind, we selected the blue line. And then BAM! Within minutes, Con was pickpocketed by an expert gang of about five to ten gypsy type guys in a well-orchestrated procedure.
We were holding hands, I stepped up to enter the train car, and then we were swarmed by the gang. A few guys pulled Con from behind, a few tried to step in between us, and three guys grabbed my arm and hand pulling me aboard. They had hoped to separate us but there was no way I was letting go of Con's hand and yanked him hard likely at the same time the guys from behind let him go. He flew forward onto the train falling on his stomach. The train doors closed and sped off. We were baffled -- for a second -- and then realized what had happened. "They stole my wallet," Con said quietly. I turned and glared at the four men standing at the door and immediately accused them of steeling Con's wallet. They glanced at me and then away. "Barbie, they took everything, my credit cards, money. " Con whispered in my ear. I turned back to the men and began frisking them. They moved back against the door. I demanded to see inside their pockets and jackets. Eventually one man turned to me and looked in my face with hate seething from his eyes and keeping eye contact with me began to unzip his pants. Con nudged me; I backed away, and we got off at the next stop. The pleasant irony of the day was that our "soft" phone (computer phone) had not been working, but that afternoon Con was able to call all the credit card companies and very efficiently cancelled everything. "You should have our new cards in a few weeks," they promised. Since everything was in Con's wallet, including his Canadian citizenship paper, the first thought was "identity theft". Con always puts his wallet in his front pocket and his hand in his pocket... except today. We called the kids right after and laughed about our ill fate. What else could we do.
May 2, 2007 -- Our last full day in St. Petersburg. We've walked a marathon a day and there's still much more to see. We managed to make our way through the Metro stations again, Con with one hand in his pocket (holding the cash), the other holding the map. I had one hand on his jacket and glared at all the gypsy-like people believing they were all pick pockets and then finally stopped giving dagger looks, realizing that I was likely scaring everybody.
Below: Kai, Inventor and designer of Nauticat boats at the factory; a sketch of the 515 boat.
Beginning Our Great Adventure
April 25, 2007 -- We launched Big Sky today! We arrived at the Nauticat Yard in Turku in our rental just as Big Sky was being loaded on the back of a truck for its two-hour slow drive along country roads to the sea. Six men in orange coveralls stopped just five minutes from the shop, pulled into a mall, leaving Big Sky in the parking lot looking awkward, but not as awkward looking as us as we sprinted out of the rental to follow the guys. A moment later, they were all sipping coffee -- the Finns never miss a coffee break. Fifteen minutes later, they were on the road, stopping often to pull out street signs and various poles in order for Big Sky to fit on the narrow streets as they made their way to the sea. With the rain falling, Big Sky was gently placed into the dark waters.
April 28, 2007 -- Big Sky was scheduled to be outfitted, mast placed and rigged, systems checked, and knowing it would take a few days, we set off by train for our pre-planned trip to St. Petersburg, Russia. It took at least a month to coordinate our entrance into Russia beginning in Canada with a hotel reservation in Russia, followed by a formal invitation from the hotel, and our passports sent to Ottawa for our Visa. We arrived in St. Petersburg well into the dark of the night, not sure which taxi to take, having read that they were run by the criminals and nefarious people, Con said, "Pick one." I did. We piled in and sped through the fog-filled streets while the Moody Blues played in his cab, arriving at a beautiful hotel overlooking the square. It felt good, finally slowing down from our months of busy work getting ready for our big adventure. We were finally relaxing. Hand in hand, we lazily walked through St. Petersburg's historic streets taking in the architecture, the hustle and bustle around us, with a purposeful destination to the Dvor Metro Station. The station claims some of the most fascinating embodiments of Stalinist style and ideals. We had to see it, and successfully purchased tokens despite lots of miscommunication with the lady behind the window. Randomly with no destination in mind, we selected the blue line. And then BAM! Within minutes, Con was pickpocketed by an expert gang of about five to ten gypsy type guys in a well-orchestrated procedure.
We were holding hands, I stepped up to enter the train car, and then we were swarmed by the gang. A few guys pulled Con from behind, a few tried to step in between us, and three guys grabbed my arm and hand pulling me aboard. They had hoped to separate us but there was no way I was letting go of Con's hand and yanked him hard likely at the same time the guys from behind let him go. He flew forward onto the train falling on his stomach. The train doors closed and sped off. We were baffled -- for a second -- and then realized what had happened. "They stole my wallet," Con said quietly. I turned and glared at the four men standing at the door and immediately accused them of steeling Con's wallet. They glanced at me and then away. "Barbie, they took everything, my credit cards, money. " Con whispered in my ear. I turned back to the men and began frisking them. They moved back against the door. I demanded to see inside their pockets and jackets. Eventually one man turned to me and looked in my face with hate seething from his eyes and keeping eye contact with me began to unzip his pants. Con nudged me; I backed away, and we got off at the next stop. The pleasant irony of the day was that our "soft" phone (computer phone) had not been working, but that afternoon Con was able to call all the credit card companies and very efficiently cancelled everything. "You should have our new cards in a few weeks," they promised. Since everything was in Con's wallet, including his Canadian citizenship paper, the first thought was "identity theft". Con always puts his wallet in his front pocket and his hand in his pocket... except today. We called the kids right after and laughed about our ill fate. What else could we do.
May 2, 2007 -- Our last full day in St. Petersburg. We've walked a marathon a day and there's still much more to see. We managed to make our way through the Metro stations again, Con with one hand in his pocket (holding the cash), the other holding the map. I had one hand on his jacket and glared at all the gypsy-like people believing they were all pick pockets and then finally stopped giving dagger looks, realizing that I was likely scaring everybody.
Below: Kai, Inventor and designer of Nauticat boats at the factory; a sketch of the 515 boat.
Our routing the first few months: Finland, Aland Islands, Sweden, Finland again, the Baltic States, Poland, Germany, Danish Island, Kiel Canal, Cuxhaven, Germany and then The Netherlands...
Below: Setup our winter tent in the cockpit; Sea gull eggs on Nauticat Island, Con's first days sailing, the cabin on the island, Big Sky docked at the island, and me in my Gill suit.
Below: Setup our winter tent in the cockpit; Sea gull eggs on Nauticat Island, Con's first days sailing, the cabin on the island, Big Sky docked at the island, and me in my Gill suit.
May 8, 2007 -- Our 5th day living aboard Big Sky! We're discovering cool things about this boat by the hour. We rise early, work ourselves to exhaustion getting the boat ready, and drop into bed at the end of the day dead tired. Our manuals are all in German and Finnish for both the boat instruments and appliances. Today, we learned how to make the washing machine give us back our clothes and that took two days. Believing the dryer didn't work, we learned that it sucks the clothes dry and stores the water in a funnel which needs to be emptied! I eventually learned that the time has to be set on the microwave in order for it to work. Who would have thought that operating foreign appliances would be a challenge. Everything aboard is like new, and Her Kroll (the previous owner) invested in the "best" of everything. We discovered a winter tent cockpit enclosure in storage which provides another room. We have Blues music playing through our speakers, sunshine streaming through the pilot-house windows, birds are flying around the boat with great spring-time animation, and the smell of freshly baking buns is wafting from the oven. Con spent time in the engine room with a nauticat engineer learning the systems. I realized after pushing many oven buttons over and over in various sequences that it works only when the time is set. Yesterday, Her Kroll and his lovely wife Rika arrived (from Spain) for a visit saying he wanted to show us things aboard, but truly I believe it was to say, "good bye" to Lady R, the former boat's name. By the afternoon, we rode the 7 km (there and back) to Turku with our laptops on our backs like armor to protect us from homesickness (well to protect me). We discovered a friendly bar where for a coke or a cider, you can camp out as long as you want using their Wi-Fi. We set up our phone systems every day to call our daughters.
May 12, 2007-- First sail day! Big Sky cut smoothly through the Baltic Sea, like a hot knife through butter under the engine. Once out of the marina we used the push button system and unfurled the main sail, followed by our 23-meter genoa, cut the engine and rode the dark waters like a rain drop on glass heeling 20 degrees to port. A perfect "get the kinks out" sail. Returning to the marina, our slip was narrow and we're surrounded by million euro boats, but Con slipped all 29 tons of our 52-foot (15 meter) boat like a pro.
May 13, 2007-- Feeling cocky about our sail, we set off again for a Mother's Day sail. With fair winds, and lots of sunshine, we managed a smooth 8 knots on a broad reach. Tingling from our sail, we turned back toward the marina. Con hit the buttons, but the main sail would not furl into the mast, getting stuck at the base. The waterways are narrow and without the ability to take in your sails to maneuver it can be hairy and that's what it was. Con positioned at the mast coaxing the sail in as I pushed the buttons and we managed to furl it just before the low bridge, and in time to make the turn into the skinny marina entrance. A cross wind was blowing. "Ready?" Con asked, already turning into our slip. It's like threading a needle, with Dolphin Poles on either side of the boat, with the added trick that you have to lasso them. " I'm not sure," I answered tentatively, gathering the lines. It took a few attempts to finally lasso the dolphins and in my anxiety, forgot to secure the other end of the line to the boat. Too late, I scampered to the bow to secure our lines there, carrying the heavy lines to take down the six steps of the ladder. I made the first step, and then lost my balance, falling the rest of the way, landing on a crate, hurting my rear, elbow, and head and mostly my ego. Once on the pier, palming the end of the line, I didn't even find where to tie it. The answer to Con's "ready" question was obviously, "Nope." Con feeling proud of his docking secured the dolphin lines and saw me walking toward him on the bow, with absolutely no idea that I'd FALLEN OFF the boat. It took a few minutes, but I managed to laugh with Con at it all.
May 19, 2007 --With days remaining in the delightful town of Turku, our home for the past three weeks, we cycled to town again for final provisions. We returned balancing 270 feet of line, a reel to bolt to the side of Big Sky to hold the line; a four foot hook; vacuum cleaner; microwave lid; indoor/outdoor thermometer; batteries; book; rain gear; a few other smaller things; and most importantly to-die for smoked salmon from the Turku market (oh yes, and herring, pickled in juniper berries, Con's absolute favorite treat). You could barely see either of us for being buried under all the things. Kai the Nautical designer and owner, and his wife Tuula Gustafsson, also involved in the business, dropped by for a visit. They couldn't do more for us as gracious hosts, continually making notes following each visit for more things they could do for us. We hold great respect for them both and believe they are honest, solid characters loaded with spirit and a love of the outdoors. The last task was to get my shaggy-dog husband a haircut, so in the dusky northern daylight, at 11 pm, I sat Con on a cement post on the dock in a cold breeze, plugged my hair clippers into the abandoned fuel house, and gave him a great haircut.
May 12, 2007-- First sail day! Big Sky cut smoothly through the Baltic Sea, like a hot knife through butter under the engine. Once out of the marina we used the push button system and unfurled the main sail, followed by our 23-meter genoa, cut the engine and rode the dark waters like a rain drop on glass heeling 20 degrees to port. A perfect "get the kinks out" sail. Returning to the marina, our slip was narrow and we're surrounded by million euro boats, but Con slipped all 29 tons of our 52-foot (15 meter) boat like a pro.
May 13, 2007-- Feeling cocky about our sail, we set off again for a Mother's Day sail. With fair winds, and lots of sunshine, we managed a smooth 8 knots on a broad reach. Tingling from our sail, we turned back toward the marina. Con hit the buttons, but the main sail would not furl into the mast, getting stuck at the base. The waterways are narrow and without the ability to take in your sails to maneuver it can be hairy and that's what it was. Con positioned at the mast coaxing the sail in as I pushed the buttons and we managed to furl it just before the low bridge, and in time to make the turn into the skinny marina entrance. A cross wind was blowing. "Ready?" Con asked, already turning into our slip. It's like threading a needle, with Dolphin Poles on either side of the boat, with the added trick that you have to lasso them. " I'm not sure," I answered tentatively, gathering the lines. It took a few attempts to finally lasso the dolphins and in my anxiety, forgot to secure the other end of the line to the boat. Too late, I scampered to the bow to secure our lines there, carrying the heavy lines to take down the six steps of the ladder. I made the first step, and then lost my balance, falling the rest of the way, landing on a crate, hurting my rear, elbow, and head and mostly my ego. Once on the pier, palming the end of the line, I didn't even find where to tie it. The answer to Con's "ready" question was obviously, "Nope." Con feeling proud of his docking secured the dolphin lines and saw me walking toward him on the bow, with absolutely no idea that I'd FALLEN OFF the boat. It took a few minutes, but I managed to laugh with Con at it all.
May 19, 2007 --With days remaining in the delightful town of Turku, our home for the past three weeks, we cycled to town again for final provisions. We returned balancing 270 feet of line, a reel to bolt to the side of Big Sky to hold the line; a four foot hook; vacuum cleaner; microwave lid; indoor/outdoor thermometer; batteries; book; rain gear; a few other smaller things; and most importantly to-die for smoked salmon from the Turku market (oh yes, and herring, pickled in juniper berries, Con's absolute favorite treat). You could barely see either of us for being buried under all the things. Kai the Nautical designer and owner, and his wife Tuula Gustafsson, also involved in the business, dropped by for a visit. They couldn't do more for us as gracious hosts, continually making notes following each visit for more things they could do for us. We hold great respect for them both and believe they are honest, solid characters loaded with spirit and a love of the outdoors. The last task was to get my shaggy-dog husband a haircut, so in the dusky northern daylight, at 11 pm, I sat Con on a cement post on the dock in a cold breeze, plugged my hair clippers into the abandoned fuel house, and gave him a great haircut.
May 22, 2007 -- Kai and Tuula told us as Nauticat boat owners, (Nauticat Hull 515-09) we share ownership to Jarviluoto Island which we've called "Nauticat Island." We set a route and sailed there on beautiful beam winds, dropping our sails as we rounded the cove, gliding up to the pier in front of the adorable dark-brown rustic cabin. Mooring Finnish style, (clipping onto the orange ball from our stern and tying our bow at the pier) we climbed onto the pier to explore the property. A spotlessly clean cabin, rusty water from a pump, and a lovely sauna awaited us. Tuula said, "Be sure to start the sauna as soon as you get there." Hundreds of birds, song birds, ducks, geese and other wildlife surrounding the property. Arriving early evening caused quite a ruckus with the Herring Gulls, whom we later discovered had three unhatched eggs they were protecting, just under the edge of the pier. They swooped down with their feet out as if they were birds of prey, ready to attack Con. We were later told that they do! We ate aboard and moved into the cabin for the wood burning sauna which was now ready. A half hour later, we were doing what the Finns do -- relax and sweat. Dark clouds moved outside the windows and then to my horror stuck to the window! Not clouds, but bird-sized mosquitos! I swear I could make out muscles in their legs. I raced back to the boat, and they chased right after me. Once the door was latched, I killed more mosquitos inside than I likely have or ever will in my lifetime.
May 23, 2007 -- After breakfast, we moved on to Verkan with the gentle winds. It's a very small hamlet with about 1,000 inhabitants but were told the ribs in the marina were excellent. Verkan is surrounded by islands (an island itself) and dotted with hidden obstacles -- rocks -- just under the water's surface. Navigation is tricky with coloured poles marking islands, rocks, and other surprises just under the water and since it's been surveyed, we were told to "Keep ton the roadway." Approaching the marina, we had our sails still up and needed to turn into the wind in order to take them down. Unfortunately turning into the wind would take us off the roadway. I watched the depth meter drop quickly from 4.3, 3.2, 2.1, and then bang! Our keel is 2.1 meters and we hit a rock. I had a quiet panic, looked to Con for reassurance. He was calm, as always. We got the sails in, and continued to dock. (Later when we lifted Big Sky for general maintenance, we saw the bite the Finnish rock took out of the keel. In Finland, often there are markers on land that you must line up properly to know that you have reached the precise place to make your turn. There are many coded markers: black and white, white with black, white on top, black on top markers. Each notates the location you should be in relation to the pole when you pass it, i.e. on your east, west, etc. To make it more challenging, the black and white system is being changed to yellow, red and green poles.
May 27, 2007 -- We just left a strange little town called Lappo in the Aland Islands. The sun was warm so we attempted to bike the parameter of the island and found maybe five residents, and the rest were birds. The Harbour Office was unlocked, but no one showed up. We helped ourselves to the electricity and enjoyed our little piece of paradise. In the morning, the mist rolled in and we charted our course southwest with a gentle 5.5 knot wind filling our sails. Chopin is playing throughout the boat, in the pilot house where I'm sitting and in the cockpit where Con's happily working the controls. Life is good.
May 28, 2007 -- We have a routine in the Aland Islands. We sail into one small village after another hoping to see a living, breathing person, and sure enough we find one or two. It's a hit and miss finding an outlet for electricity and the access to internet is pretty much out of the question. I drive Big Sky out of the marinas as Con works the lines and vice versa when we arrive wherever.We've just left Remmarhamn, and are heading to Degerby. I'm crossing my fingers that there's cell phone reception so we can connect with the kids. I'm missing them! I snuck up on Slavonian Grebe nesting, she took off and left me to peak at her delicate eggs.
May 23, 2007 -- After breakfast, we moved on to Verkan with the gentle winds. It's a very small hamlet with about 1,000 inhabitants but were told the ribs in the marina were excellent. Verkan is surrounded by islands (an island itself) and dotted with hidden obstacles -- rocks -- just under the water's surface. Navigation is tricky with coloured poles marking islands, rocks, and other surprises just under the water and since it's been surveyed, we were told to "Keep ton the roadway." Approaching the marina, we had our sails still up and needed to turn into the wind in order to take them down. Unfortunately turning into the wind would take us off the roadway. I watched the depth meter drop quickly from 4.3, 3.2, 2.1, and then bang! Our keel is 2.1 meters and we hit a rock. I had a quiet panic, looked to Con for reassurance. He was calm, as always. We got the sails in, and continued to dock. (Later when we lifted Big Sky for general maintenance, we saw the bite the Finnish rock took out of the keel. In Finland, often there are markers on land that you must line up properly to know that you have reached the precise place to make your turn. There are many coded markers: black and white, white with black, white on top, black on top markers. Each notates the location you should be in relation to the pole when you pass it, i.e. on your east, west, etc. To make it more challenging, the black and white system is being changed to yellow, red and green poles.
May 27, 2007 -- We just left a strange little town called Lappo in the Aland Islands. The sun was warm so we attempted to bike the parameter of the island and found maybe five residents, and the rest were birds. The Harbour Office was unlocked, but no one showed up. We helped ourselves to the electricity and enjoyed our little piece of paradise. In the morning, the mist rolled in and we charted our course southwest with a gentle 5.5 knot wind filling our sails. Chopin is playing throughout the boat, in the pilot house where I'm sitting and in the cockpit where Con's happily working the controls. Life is good.
May 28, 2007 -- We have a routine in the Aland Islands. We sail into one small village after another hoping to see a living, breathing person, and sure enough we find one or two. It's a hit and miss finding an outlet for electricity and the access to internet is pretty much out of the question. I drive Big Sky out of the marinas as Con works the lines and vice versa when we arrive wherever.We've just left Remmarhamn, and are heading to Degerby. I'm crossing my fingers that there's cell phone reception so we can connect with the kids. I'm missing them! I snuck up on Slavonian Grebe nesting, she took off and left me to peak at her delicate eggs.
May 29, 2007 -- Fog! We arrived in Degerby a pretty and quaint Finish town and set off immediately for internet, anxious to call my daughters. The town had one restaurant, one grocery store, one computer in the library, and the library closed at 2 pm. It was 2:10 pm. I relaxed somewhat knowing we would depart in the morning for Mariehamn in the Aland Islands as there was bound to be internet there. We woke the next morning to the sounds of fog horns. A thick pea fog rolled in and surrounded us. It was so thick I could have sliced it with a bread knife. About 1:30 pm though, we spotted a sliver of sunlight believing the fog was lifting. We immediately untied, and began the confusing exit of the narrow channel. There are markers of every kind for as far as we could see (which wasn't too far with the fog already rolling back in). There were red ones, green ones, black with white and white with black, as well as centre markers, and our GPS showed markings for underwater rocks -- everywhere! Moving gingerly through the maze, eyes straining forward we heard the ferry's fog horn right behind us -- but we couldn't see it from fog! In a matter of minutes, the fog had rolled in like a freight train and surrounded us. The ferry captain blew the horn again and we detoured to a tiny area between a marker and the roadway, making sure not to leave the roadway for the rocks. The ferry shot passed, and in a brief moment, we saw it -- and the colour of the eyes of the passengers looking down at us. Intending to follow the ferry, Con hit the throttle down hard but within 10 seconds the ferry was swallowed up by fog and our GPS went haywire not landing on any true location. Sometimes putting us on land, sometimes way off our route. It just took seconds, and we were blind. I raced below and turned on Raytheon plotter which immediately showed our true location and I called out turns from the pilot house equipment. Once our GPS behaved, I joined Con topsides straining to see anything. I nearly had a head-on (literally) with a red marker as I leaned over the rail hoping to spot something -- anything. I then leaned over the dodger listening for the sounds of ferry engines and sure enough, I'd see the third story of the ferry above the fog. The big ships looked eerie as if they were floating above the water. About five hours later, we tied in what was one of our favourite locations -- the Mariehamn marina. We had internet, sunshine, sauna, and most importantly, a connection with our family, including my mom and dad. Life was once again perfect.
May 31, 2007 -- Smoked Salmon Pulling out our fold-up bikes, we were told "that way" to the fish monger. We set off down the wooden path built over the fallen trees, streams, and at times bridged over the sea water. Our hearts were singing with happiness with the cool air on our cheeks. The path suddenly ended. Con led the way, lifted his bike, and carried it down the incline, planning to walk up the other side and across the street where the fish monger shop was located. I followed. Con was having a difficult time managing the slope and carrying the bike and had to wheel it. I did the same. When we reached the road, our shoes were so heavy with mud -- mud that was seeping into the hem of our pants and making its way up to our knees. Our beautiful new bikes didn't fare any better. Once in front of the fish monger, Con pulled out the three locks to secure the bikes while we shopped. "Honestly Con, would anybody steal the bikes in their condition?" Finnish men entered and exited with their goods, all dressed in jeans, crispy shirts, pink or purple sweaters over their shoulders tied at the neck. Woman entered wearing fun "clean" clothes, and there we were. I tried to clean the mud off Con's forehead with my sleeve just before it was our turn. Once we had the smoked fish in the brown bag we no longer cared what impressions we were making, and slid back down the slope and up the other side to the wooden path and back to Big Sky. The marina is a 110-year-old yacht and sailing club. For 22 euro we had 24-hour internet, a sauna twice a day, access bike paths that led us all over the island, and pretty much the entire marina to ourselves. Finland isn't on holiday -- yet.
May 31, 2007 -- Smoked Salmon Pulling out our fold-up bikes, we were told "that way" to the fish monger. We set off down the wooden path built over the fallen trees, streams, and at times bridged over the sea water. Our hearts were singing with happiness with the cool air on our cheeks. The path suddenly ended. Con led the way, lifted his bike, and carried it down the incline, planning to walk up the other side and across the street where the fish monger shop was located. I followed. Con was having a difficult time managing the slope and carrying the bike and had to wheel it. I did the same. When we reached the road, our shoes were so heavy with mud -- mud that was seeping into the hem of our pants and making its way up to our knees. Our beautiful new bikes didn't fare any better. Once in front of the fish monger, Con pulled out the three locks to secure the bikes while we shopped. "Honestly Con, would anybody steal the bikes in their condition?" Finnish men entered and exited with their goods, all dressed in jeans, crispy shirts, pink or purple sweaters over their shoulders tied at the neck. Woman entered wearing fun "clean" clothes, and there we were. I tried to clean the mud off Con's forehead with my sleeve just before it was our turn. Once we had the smoked fish in the brown bag we no longer cared what impressions we were making, and slid back down the slope and up the other side to the wooden path and back to Big Sky. The marina is a 110-year-old yacht and sailing club. For 22 euro we had 24-hour internet, a sauna twice a day, access bike paths that led us all over the island, and pretty much the entire marina to ourselves. Finland isn't on holiday -- yet.
June 1, 2007, Dad's 82nd Birthday! With my Nokia phone, I contorted my body in all sorts of ways, walking to various points around the marina to get a good signal and finally connected with dad. "Happy birthday!" I could tell he thought it was pretty cool that I called from so far away. Mom picked up the extension line and the two of them were having a jolly conversation a room away from each other while I listened from Finland. I stepped aboard feeling great, ready see if Con wanted to go for a sauna and looking forward to a good night's sleep. We spoke at the same time. "No you go first," I said to Con.
"I checked the weather Barb, and we should leave now and have a night sail to Stockholm." He added, "Besides, we can practice a night sail, and what better conditions than a bright northern night sky." I was ready to bunk into Mariehamn for life, in fact, the idea of a night sail appealed to me as much as plucking my leg hairs out one by one. But, by 10:15 pm we untied, and sailed into a glorious dusky night sky. As the sun set, an awesome sight spread out in front of us, just at the same time we'd entered the 21-NM stretch of open waters. Most sails, I suffer from sea sickness, and I was nervous about how my stomach would react. The moment we hit the open water, the motion of the sea did not set well in my body. I swallowed Gravol at regular intervals. When it was my shift, I rose from the bed only to vomit and Con told me to go back and lay down. He called me up frantically in the darkest part of the night to come and see that there is a ship on fire, "No, a fleet of ships." I raced topside and we studied the massive light on the horizon and saw the northern sun setting and an enormous moon rising. "Will you look at that," Con said in awe. We'd never in our lives seen Mother Nature showing off so much. Once we entered protective waters again, my stomach settled and I took the helm while Con slept until we neared Stockholm. Along the way, we passed small clumps of land with hundreds and hundreds of smelling-like-fish noisy cormorants nesting.
June 4, 2007 -- Day two in Stockholm -- the city that never stands still. We're docked at the only public marina and it's right downtown, which is surprisingly quiet and like all marina's fairly empty. The Mallard ducks waddled up and ate right out of my hand. the swans knocked with their beaks on our boat for handouts. Stockholm! A fabulous city. High-school graduation celebrations are going on and calling them "celebrations" is a huge understatement. Each day balloons fill the sky, fireworks at night, antique car parade and cars honking. We joined the festival in the park with great bands playing U2, Robbie Robertson, Rolling Stones... We entered the "Taste of Stockholm" event all the while mesmerized by the sheer amount of things going on and asked a local about it. He shrugged, "Nothing special. It's Stockholm." Beautiful healthy-looking people, well dressed, and blonde. The summer fashions are funky and classy, lots of white, and off white, with splashes of colour here and there. It's a city that likes to dress. The Baltic Sea fingers through the city, and bridges link all the fingers and the surrounding islands. There are 70 museums to see here, and so far, we've visited just one, the Wasa directly in front of the marina. The buildings are beautifully preserved 16th and 17th century. It looks a lot like Amsterdam. We biked for about two hours, just wandering up and down streets, exploring castles, parks, waterways.
June 5, 2007 -- The main sail got stuck in Turku when we did the test runs, and Con noticed the wow at the bottom, so we took it down at the North Sail shop for repairs. Since it would take a week, we melded into the Swedish community. For early June, it was hot! And the celebrations were getting wilder (and wetter) each day. Every street had open backed trucks with dozens of dancing, mostly drunk young kids wearing white shirts and white sailor hats holding pictures of themselves in Grade one. Inevitably when the flat-bed went by, we were soaked in spraying beer.
"I checked the weather Barb, and we should leave now and have a night sail to Stockholm." He added, "Besides, we can practice a night sail, and what better conditions than a bright northern night sky." I was ready to bunk into Mariehamn for life, in fact, the idea of a night sail appealed to me as much as plucking my leg hairs out one by one. But, by 10:15 pm we untied, and sailed into a glorious dusky night sky. As the sun set, an awesome sight spread out in front of us, just at the same time we'd entered the 21-NM stretch of open waters. Most sails, I suffer from sea sickness, and I was nervous about how my stomach would react. The moment we hit the open water, the motion of the sea did not set well in my body. I swallowed Gravol at regular intervals. When it was my shift, I rose from the bed only to vomit and Con told me to go back and lay down. He called me up frantically in the darkest part of the night to come and see that there is a ship on fire, "No, a fleet of ships." I raced topside and we studied the massive light on the horizon and saw the northern sun setting and an enormous moon rising. "Will you look at that," Con said in awe. We'd never in our lives seen Mother Nature showing off so much. Once we entered protective waters again, my stomach settled and I took the helm while Con slept until we neared Stockholm. Along the way, we passed small clumps of land with hundreds and hundreds of smelling-like-fish noisy cormorants nesting.
June 4, 2007 -- Day two in Stockholm -- the city that never stands still. We're docked at the only public marina and it's right downtown, which is surprisingly quiet and like all marina's fairly empty. The Mallard ducks waddled up and ate right out of my hand. the swans knocked with their beaks on our boat for handouts. Stockholm! A fabulous city. High-school graduation celebrations are going on and calling them "celebrations" is a huge understatement. Each day balloons fill the sky, fireworks at night, antique car parade and cars honking. We joined the festival in the park with great bands playing U2, Robbie Robertson, Rolling Stones... We entered the "Taste of Stockholm" event all the while mesmerized by the sheer amount of things going on and asked a local about it. He shrugged, "Nothing special. It's Stockholm." Beautiful healthy-looking people, well dressed, and blonde. The summer fashions are funky and classy, lots of white, and off white, with splashes of colour here and there. It's a city that likes to dress. The Baltic Sea fingers through the city, and bridges link all the fingers and the surrounding islands. There are 70 museums to see here, and so far, we've visited just one, the Wasa directly in front of the marina. The buildings are beautifully preserved 16th and 17th century. It looks a lot like Amsterdam. We biked for about two hours, just wandering up and down streets, exploring castles, parks, waterways.
June 5, 2007 -- The main sail got stuck in Turku when we did the test runs, and Con noticed the wow at the bottom, so we took it down at the North Sail shop for repairs. Since it would take a week, we melded into the Swedish community. For early June, it was hot! And the celebrations were getting wilder (and wetter) each day. Every street had open backed trucks with dozens of dancing, mostly drunk young kids wearing white shirts and white sailor hats holding pictures of themselves in Grade one. Inevitably when the flat-bed went by, we were soaked in spraying beer.
June 7, 2007 -- What's not to love about Stockholm! It held us spellbound. We'd sit in our sunny cockpit eating breakfast looking across the water at Castle Holmen and the many medieval buildings and church steeples against the landscape. Finland and Sweden have a reputation for being the countries with the least amount of thefts, nevertheless, after our pick pocket ordeal in Russia, we triple locked our bikes. Today, we parked on the royal castle grounds right beside the royal guard -- on duty. Con walked over to him and asked, "If you don't mind, we'll leave our bikes here and you could watch them." They aren't to respond, but Con waited, and he finally gave Con a slight nod. By the afternoon, we stopped in the medieval part of the city and sat at the perfect table in the open square for lunch. Late afternoon, we called the kids to wish them a happy morning in Calgary. Unable to resist the lure of the city, we climbed back on our bikes after dinner and wove through city parks to take in the dozens of people enjoying picnics.
June 12, 2007 -- Getting used to Big Sky, I was pleased with myself backing out of the tiny Stockholm slip slip we called "home" for the past 10 days, and navigated us through the narrow exit toward the North Sail shop. I gave Con the helm to dock in the small edge of the pier in the shallows. We were so close to the shore that I could lean over and pluck the grasses from the marsh port side.
June 13, 2007 -- By morning, I motored us out of the shallows and away from the North Sail pier with our fixed sail furled back into the mast and caught the winds to Sandhamn Island, a six-hour sail averaging six knots. Sandhamn is a small village on the outer edges of the Archipelago and we told the kids to watch us on their webcam, giving them the time we anticipated to arrive. The wind was blowing 30 knots as we attempted to dock. Five people stood on the pier watching, which made great entertainment in the little town. I tossed the bow and stern lines and a man tied our bow first, immediately causing our stern to blow out wide. Con and I pulled and pulled on the lines, not gaining an inch in the wind. A young man about 18 walked by munching on an apple, "Why don't you use your electric winch." Darn, why didn't we think of that. After our fiasco of a tie up, we walked to the centre of the pier and waved like silly people at the webcam. Later, we called to see what they thought. "Oh sorry, we forgot," they all said separately. Below: Swedish coast guard; midnight sun on Big Sky; sea sickness struck.
June 12, 2007 -- Getting used to Big Sky, I was pleased with myself backing out of the tiny Stockholm slip slip we called "home" for the past 10 days, and navigated us through the narrow exit toward the North Sail shop. I gave Con the helm to dock in the small edge of the pier in the shallows. We were so close to the shore that I could lean over and pluck the grasses from the marsh port side.
June 13, 2007 -- By morning, I motored us out of the shallows and away from the North Sail pier with our fixed sail furled back into the mast and caught the winds to Sandhamn Island, a six-hour sail averaging six knots. Sandhamn is a small village on the outer edges of the Archipelago and we told the kids to watch us on their webcam, giving them the time we anticipated to arrive. The wind was blowing 30 knots as we attempted to dock. Five people stood on the pier watching, which made great entertainment in the little town. I tossed the bow and stern lines and a man tied our bow first, immediately causing our stern to blow out wide. Con and I pulled and pulled on the lines, not gaining an inch in the wind. A young man about 18 walked by munching on an apple, "Why don't you use your electric winch." Darn, why didn't we think of that. After our fiasco of a tie up, we walked to the centre of the pier and waved like silly people at the webcam. Later, we called to see what they thought. "Oh sorry, we forgot," they all said separately. Below: Swedish coast guard; midnight sun on Big Sky; sea sickness struck.
June 15, 2007 -- We had to make our way east again, back to Turku to collect our life raft which was now ready for pick up. Up at 5:30 am, we departed Sweden for Kokar Island, Finland, arriving at 9 pm after a 15-hour sail. A gale was expected that evening and an early departure gave us better assurance we could be tucked in before it arrived. I was at the helm when about two hours into our sail I heard a siren. Neither of us knew what it meant and carried on. Fifteen minutes later, an air force plane was circling our boat and few minutes after the plane buzzed us two guys in combat gear popped out of the hatch from a navy boat that appeared stealth-like on our starboard. "Change course immediately to 140 degrees, you're in a live missile testing zone." The plane continued to circle us until we were well out of the range. My sea sickness had returned and this time I tried wearing a sea sickness preventative watch which sent pulses through my wrist, meant to combat the sickness. It wasn't working. Fifteen hours into our sail, (and 88 NM later) just as we were rounding the point coming into Kokar, Immigration officers raced up to us in their speed boat, "From where?"
"Stockholm," Con replied. They nodded and then disappeared. The gale arrived at 12:45 and slamming into Big Sky's starboard but our trusty lines held us secure.
June 17, 2007 -- Our sails collected the winds from the tail end of last night's gale and blew us into Verkan for our second visit. The owner (or manager) waved us in with a big smile, and before we climbed down he called up, "Welcome back our Canadian friends. I've booked your sauna for 8 pm so you have time to get ready for our party tonight. Please come as our guests." We did and had a blast. An acoustical guitarist played great 70s songs in his really bad English, "Eight-teen, t-ill I die." The owner placed two glasses of wine in front of us, "On the house." I left my seat for a few minutes and Con was fully engaged in an animated conversation with a man who was allegedly telling him funny stories. The only problem was that Con couldn't hear him but he was laughing heartedly. Relieved that I'd returned to translate, I soon realized that he was speaking in Russian. I fake-translated anyway and we laughed 'till we had tears. Walking back to the boat, at 1 am, the sun had set about an hour earlier, but the sky was still a light-grey. Five days remain until "Midsummer Day" (first day of summer) where the Scandinavians celebrate with fervor with their all-too-brief summer. Our next journey: Turku, Helsinki, then across the Baltic to Estonia.
"Stockholm," Con replied. They nodded and then disappeared. The gale arrived at 12:45 and slamming into Big Sky's starboard but our trusty lines held us secure.
June 17, 2007 -- Our sails collected the winds from the tail end of last night's gale and blew us into Verkan for our second visit. The owner (or manager) waved us in with a big smile, and before we climbed down he called up, "Welcome back our Canadian friends. I've booked your sauna for 8 pm so you have time to get ready for our party tonight. Please come as our guests." We did and had a blast. An acoustical guitarist played great 70s songs in his really bad English, "Eight-teen, t-ill I die." The owner placed two glasses of wine in front of us, "On the house." I left my seat for a few minutes and Con was fully engaged in an animated conversation with a man who was allegedly telling him funny stories. The only problem was that Con couldn't hear him but he was laughing heartedly. Relieved that I'd returned to translate, I soon realized that he was speaking in Russian. I fake-translated anyway and we laughed 'till we had tears. Walking back to the boat, at 1 am, the sun had set about an hour earlier, but the sky was still a light-grey. Five days remain until "Midsummer Day" (first day of summer) where the Scandinavians celebrate with fervor with their all-too-brief summer. Our next journey: Turku, Helsinki, then across the Baltic to Estonia.
June 19, 2007 -- Our last day in Turku, (on our return for our life raft) we biked 30K to a Medieval town called Naantali where we watched Gypsies and Laplander women in the market. That night, we had an enjoyable last visit over dinner with Kai and Tuula (Nauticat owners). June 22, 2007 -- Docking in Kasnas. Still getting the kinks out of docking. I attached the Finnish stern hook to the buoy, secured the bow latter, Con motored toward the dock, I stepped down the latter, attached windward line. Con turned off Big Sky, tossed me the lee side line, and climbed onto the dock. In that moment, the wind turned, Big Sky's fenders bumped the boat portside, Con then pulled his line attempting to tie, slipped on his bare feet landing plop on his butt, about six inches from being pulled into the Baltic. "Relic" we later called him watched from his boat to our port side with a sour look on his face. Con tied on. Relic climbed off his boat, retied our lines (seemingly the same way Con tied) and said, "How it's done", and climbed back aboard his boat. We thanked him. From our pilot house windows we watched Relic catch a half dozen white fish. We gave him a thumbs up. We leave for Hanko in the morning.
June 23, 2007 -- Some of the Differences Finland is celebration "Midsummers Day" (June 21st longest day of the year). Hundreds of kids have gathered in Hanko to drink -- litres and litres of beer and by morning, they are looking pretty rough. Kids are passed out on rocks around the water's edge, feet hanging out of cars sleeping (mid afternoon). Bottles and garbage is everywhere. Seagulls are doing their best to help clean up the leftover food items. Grocery shopping is different from what we're used to in North America. Stores are about the size of 7-11s, fruit and veggies are acquired at outdoor markets. Eggs are on the counter not refrigerated. Finland has an enormous array of potato varieties. And the smoked fish has teased our taste buds to the point of addiction. The other difference in shopping is the package size. Flour, for instance, is in a 1 kilogram package rather than 10. Can't find chocolate chips. It's confusing with the languages to distinguish between baking soda or baking powder and spices. Most people use bikes rather than cars and the car drivers give way to the bike riders, so do pedestrians. We have a cell phone and continually change SIM cards when we change countries. Oh, emergency is 112, not 911. Most people know a minimum of three different languages, and many five or six. Pizza seems to be the adopted national food.
June 25, 2007 -- To Helsinki By 6 a.m. we were under sail for our 77-NM journey to Helsinki. Sea sickness pounced on me again. I took watch for about two hours and the rest was spent managing my ill stomach. We had our least favourite angle of sail (from behind) as it tempts Big Sky to jibe. The waves set up on a following sea at time three meters high. Big Sky rose high and dipped low, never breaking inside the cockpit as we sit high above the water line.
June 23, 2007 -- Some of the Differences Finland is celebration "Midsummers Day" (June 21st longest day of the year). Hundreds of kids have gathered in Hanko to drink -- litres and litres of beer and by morning, they are looking pretty rough. Kids are passed out on rocks around the water's edge, feet hanging out of cars sleeping (mid afternoon). Bottles and garbage is everywhere. Seagulls are doing their best to help clean up the leftover food items. Grocery shopping is different from what we're used to in North America. Stores are about the size of 7-11s, fruit and veggies are acquired at outdoor markets. Eggs are on the counter not refrigerated. Finland has an enormous array of potato varieties. And the smoked fish has teased our taste buds to the point of addiction. The other difference in shopping is the package size. Flour, for instance, is in a 1 kilogram package rather than 10. Can't find chocolate chips. It's confusing with the languages to distinguish between baking soda or baking powder and spices. Most people use bikes rather than cars and the car drivers give way to the bike riders, so do pedestrians. We have a cell phone and continually change SIM cards when we change countries. Oh, emergency is 112, not 911. Most people know a minimum of three different languages, and many five or six. Pizza seems to be the adopted national food.
June 25, 2007 -- To Helsinki By 6 a.m. we were under sail for our 77-NM journey to Helsinki. Sea sickness pounced on me again. I took watch for about two hours and the rest was spent managing my ill stomach. We had our least favourite angle of sail (from behind) as it tempts Big Sky to jibe. The waves set up on a following sea at time three meters high. Big Sky rose high and dipped low, never breaking inside the cockpit as we sit high above the water line.
June 27, 2007 -- In Helsinki. Docked in the marina right downtown, we walked to the open market and stopped for lunch at a popular outdoor tented restaurant. The smell of fish sent our stomach to growl and we stepped right up to order a plate each of fish with new potatoes sprinkled with fresh dill. It was served on a flimsy paper plate. The moment we turned to find a seat, we saw the dangerous competition for our plate-full of fish we'd have to navigate. Seagulls! Large and healthy looking ones lined up casually inside the fold of the tent top, barely noticeable but for their four-inch pencil-like beaks sticking out, all facing the innocent just exiting the counter. They had a brilliant strategy. One swooped down at the victim hitting their head with their enormous wing, which generally made the victim react by impulsively lifting their hands to their heads accidentally tossing their flimsy plate of food, and within seconds the rest of the soldier-like birds swooped down and cleaned up. Finally settled at the table, arms open and nearly laying on the two plates to protect our food while Con went for napkins, a gull appeared in my peripheral vision hovering just over my left shoulder. I turned and nearly touched nose to long yellow beak. He stayed hovering until Con returned and shooed him with great animation.
June 29, 2007 -- We left Helsinki for Kabbole, a mini sized town with just one spot alongside a dock and lucky for us there was no other boat. We made a bowl of soup, popped a bowl of popcorn and watched a movie on my laptop. Our next stop was Kotka, Finland, just 50 nautical miles from the Russian border. For $17 Euro, we had electricity, water, and internet. The weather has been wet, but we set out anyway to tour by bike. Kotka is gorgeous with its many parks and water features.
July 1, 2007 -- Happy Canada Day! This is our last day in Finland, a country which we've totally enjoyed from the people, smoked fish, (for Con the herring), the 19-hour daylight and nightly sauna's. In the morning we'll sail south to Estonia.
July 3, 2007 -- Our route to Estonia had us travel south across the Baltic and warned "Potential mine fields." The area had been swept in the late 80's as part of a clean-up plan, but not completed. We motored over the glassy water pondering the chaos the Baltic had seen during WWII with submarines, battleships, mines, and bombers. About two hours from our destination, Vergi, Estonia, our engine quit. We opened the genoa sail and drifted at 2.5 knots. Con went into the engine room to study the fuel tanks, switched to the second tank and primed it, and the engine turned over. We entered the shallow narrow entrance not heeding the suggested entrance and got stuck in the murky bottom. Con backed us up and we were able to line up on the correct route. The tiny pier was completely full, beyond capacity and not a spot remained. A woman came out of her boat and called, "the line!" I tossed and she tied us up in a "V" formation between two other boats on the very end of the dock. Starved, Con pulled out our bikes and we followed our GPS in the direction of a promised restaurant. The nearest village was four kilometers. Alas, we spotted a rustic outdoor picnic-like restaurant. Con flashed euro to the waitress, which she shook her head saying, "Kroons only." He flashed a visa, and she shook her head again. Con then went table to table asking if anyone could exchange Euro for Kroon. We had many strange looks and that was only when someone would look, mostly they turned away. Finally, a friendly German man seated to the far right smiled and gestured us over. He volunteered, "I checked the exchange rate this morning, no problem."
July 5, 2007 -- We moved on to Pirita marina located in a small beach community within biking distance to Taillon and moored a stone's throw from the 1980 Olympic torch. This marina was built for the Moscow 1980 Olympics because Estonia was then under Russian rule. We biked into Taillon, population 400,000, awed by the medieval section. The Estonians were celebrating Medieval Week and old fashion stalls were set up and the merchants were dressed in peasant clothes and some as Maid Mariam or Robin Hood.
A bloody mystery was taking place aboard. Each morning, we woke to blood spots on the sheets near Con's feet. I scrubbed the sheets every morning for a half week and inspected Con's body each night and morning. Not solving the mystery, I carefully took the bed apart and casually pinched a piece of lint in my fingers when it jumped. I captured "the lint" in a cup and tossed it out the window and the mystery was solved. I called my dad and told him about the dilemma and he laughed, "You've got fleas! And, they can jump like a son-of-a-gun." We figured it hitchhiked back with us from the ranch and luckily it didn't have friends or babies.
June 29, 2007 -- We left Helsinki for Kabbole, a mini sized town with just one spot alongside a dock and lucky for us there was no other boat. We made a bowl of soup, popped a bowl of popcorn and watched a movie on my laptop. Our next stop was Kotka, Finland, just 50 nautical miles from the Russian border. For $17 Euro, we had electricity, water, and internet. The weather has been wet, but we set out anyway to tour by bike. Kotka is gorgeous with its many parks and water features.
July 1, 2007 -- Happy Canada Day! This is our last day in Finland, a country which we've totally enjoyed from the people, smoked fish, (for Con the herring), the 19-hour daylight and nightly sauna's. In the morning we'll sail south to Estonia.
July 3, 2007 -- Our route to Estonia had us travel south across the Baltic and warned "Potential mine fields." The area had been swept in the late 80's as part of a clean-up plan, but not completed. We motored over the glassy water pondering the chaos the Baltic had seen during WWII with submarines, battleships, mines, and bombers. About two hours from our destination, Vergi, Estonia, our engine quit. We opened the genoa sail and drifted at 2.5 knots. Con went into the engine room to study the fuel tanks, switched to the second tank and primed it, and the engine turned over. We entered the shallow narrow entrance not heeding the suggested entrance and got stuck in the murky bottom. Con backed us up and we were able to line up on the correct route. The tiny pier was completely full, beyond capacity and not a spot remained. A woman came out of her boat and called, "the line!" I tossed and she tied us up in a "V" formation between two other boats on the very end of the dock. Starved, Con pulled out our bikes and we followed our GPS in the direction of a promised restaurant. The nearest village was four kilometers. Alas, we spotted a rustic outdoor picnic-like restaurant. Con flashed euro to the waitress, which she shook her head saying, "Kroons only." He flashed a visa, and she shook her head again. Con then went table to table asking if anyone could exchange Euro for Kroon. We had many strange looks and that was only when someone would look, mostly they turned away. Finally, a friendly German man seated to the far right smiled and gestured us over. He volunteered, "I checked the exchange rate this morning, no problem."
July 5, 2007 -- We moved on to Pirita marina located in a small beach community within biking distance to Taillon and moored a stone's throw from the 1980 Olympic torch. This marina was built for the Moscow 1980 Olympics because Estonia was then under Russian rule. We biked into Taillon, population 400,000, awed by the medieval section. The Estonians were celebrating Medieval Week and old fashion stalls were set up and the merchants were dressed in peasant clothes and some as Maid Mariam or Robin Hood.
A bloody mystery was taking place aboard. Each morning, we woke to blood spots on the sheets near Con's feet. I scrubbed the sheets every morning for a half week and inspected Con's body each night and morning. Not solving the mystery, I carefully took the bed apart and casually pinched a piece of lint in my fingers when it jumped. I captured "the lint" in a cup and tossed it out the window and the mystery was solved. I called my dad and told him about the dilemma and he laughed, "You've got fleas! And, they can jump like a son-of-a-gun." We figured it hitchhiked back with us from the ranch and luckily it didn't have friends or babies.
July 6, 2007 -- Hero of the marina! An old guy, a younger man, a young woman, and child motored into the marina about 10 am from an overnight sail from Helsinki. They hooked their line on a buoy sharing it with another boat, and proceeded to back over their line seizing their engine when it wrapped around their prop and shaft. Their boat was drifting toward Big Sky's stern and if a line wasn't thrown to another boat they would have hit us. The old guy looked perplexed, unable to make a decision about what he must do. Con called to him, "Someone will have to dive down to free the line." He looked panicked, frozen to the wheel. Con then decided the "someone" would be him. "Get my snorkel please." Con slipped into the 15 degree dark water and dove several times under their boat using a knife attempting to cut the line free. Each time surfacing with loud coughing fits that to me sounded like he was drowning himself. Each time he surfaced, his skin was a darker blue and I was sure hypothermia was setting in. Many people watched the whole scene unfold. Me calling out, "Con, that's enough, come out now."
The neighbor (who was a doctor) looked at my concerned face, "Are there any health issues we should know about your husband?"
"Yes! He won't quit until the job is done!"
Finally, once Con was able to catch his breath he said, "It's dddone."
I wrapped a white towel around him leading him to our hot shower and I saw the towel was covered in BLUE, not hypothermia, but antifouling from the bottom of their boat.
July 7, 2007 -- Albertine arrives her luggage the next day. The three of us were chatting in the pilot house and about 11:45 pm we heard a loud bang and joked about our neighbours having a wild party in their 16-meter yacht. I went topside to take a look, but it was so dark, I couldn't see anything, and all was quiet. Earlier that evening, we saw the three young guys from the yacht greet three young local woman dressed very sexy like, and the six of them left the marina. In the morning, the owner of the boat stopped us to say they were robbed, "everything is gone, including my underwear! Did you see anything?"
"I heard a loud noise about 11:45 pm and went out to take a look, but saw nothing," I volunteered.
The man moved in too close to my face, to question me further making me feel guilty. Apparently, a boat arrived, tied up beside them, used a fire extinguisher to break the main window, and proceeded to empty the yacht. Now, everyone is looking suspicious to me. A woman and her companion walked passed Big Sky taking pictures of our boat in a stealth-like manner, with her camera low on her hip. I stepped outside and took a picture of her.
July 9, 2007 -- Mechanic Arrives The generator wouldn't turn over and Con was still concerned that Big Sky stalled when crossing the Baltic called in a mechanic. We learned that the key to the engine and generator was to switch tanks BEFORE it's empty and always prime. We motored to the tax-free diesel pump and within 20 minutes filled our tank ($10,000 EEK - CND$1000). Rain had falling for a few days and we hiked from one bus stop to another dodging serious puddles and tidal waves of splashes from the vehicles. Tallinn, Estonia's capital city has a great mix of old and new architecture as seen in the well-preserved medieval old town and the more recent Russian cold concrete buildings poured in between, and even in front of the Opera House to hide its beauty. Ending the evening in the cockpit with dinner aboard, a woman climbed up onto our boat imploring that we "take her with us." She was a second generation Russian implanted into Estonia during the time when Russian tried to "Russificate" Estonia.
July 10, 2007-- Hornet enroute to Lohusalu The largest hornet I've ever seen, about 4-5 cm long landed beside Con while undersail. I scooped it up and tossed it overboard, but he just landed in the water, never flew away. I learned that these hornets are endangered in Germany and there's a 50,000 euro fine if you kill one.
We're watched all the time! Leaving Pirita (Tallinn's marina) the coast guard called us this morning on Channel 16 "Big Sky Big Sky Big Sky, this is the Coast Guard, turn to Channel 20. Destination? Last port?"
July 13, 2007 -- We left our tight slip at Lehtma, Estonia and blew to another tight marina docking, securing Big Sky with spring lines. Just just settling for dinner when another boat came in under high speed squishing in between our boat and our neighbour's running across our spring line. Con dashed out and quickly released the line. Just settling in for the night, about 11 pm, to our amazement, a 16 -meter wide yacht attempted to squeeze into a six-inch space to our right, and was successful! Talk about sardines in a can...
The neighbor (who was a doctor) looked at my concerned face, "Are there any health issues we should know about your husband?"
"Yes! He won't quit until the job is done!"
Finally, once Con was able to catch his breath he said, "It's dddone."
I wrapped a white towel around him leading him to our hot shower and I saw the towel was covered in BLUE, not hypothermia, but antifouling from the bottom of their boat.
July 7, 2007 -- Albertine arrives her luggage the next day. The three of us were chatting in the pilot house and about 11:45 pm we heard a loud bang and joked about our neighbours having a wild party in their 16-meter yacht. I went topside to take a look, but it was so dark, I couldn't see anything, and all was quiet. Earlier that evening, we saw the three young guys from the yacht greet three young local woman dressed very sexy like, and the six of them left the marina. In the morning, the owner of the boat stopped us to say they were robbed, "everything is gone, including my underwear! Did you see anything?"
"I heard a loud noise about 11:45 pm and went out to take a look, but saw nothing," I volunteered.
The man moved in too close to my face, to question me further making me feel guilty. Apparently, a boat arrived, tied up beside them, used a fire extinguisher to break the main window, and proceeded to empty the yacht. Now, everyone is looking suspicious to me. A woman and her companion walked passed Big Sky taking pictures of our boat in a stealth-like manner, with her camera low on her hip. I stepped outside and took a picture of her.
July 9, 2007 -- Mechanic Arrives The generator wouldn't turn over and Con was still concerned that Big Sky stalled when crossing the Baltic called in a mechanic. We learned that the key to the engine and generator was to switch tanks BEFORE it's empty and always prime. We motored to the tax-free diesel pump and within 20 minutes filled our tank ($10,000 EEK - CND$1000). Rain had falling for a few days and we hiked from one bus stop to another dodging serious puddles and tidal waves of splashes from the vehicles. Tallinn, Estonia's capital city has a great mix of old and new architecture as seen in the well-preserved medieval old town and the more recent Russian cold concrete buildings poured in between, and even in front of the Opera House to hide its beauty. Ending the evening in the cockpit with dinner aboard, a woman climbed up onto our boat imploring that we "take her with us." She was a second generation Russian implanted into Estonia during the time when Russian tried to "Russificate" Estonia.
July 10, 2007-- Hornet enroute to Lohusalu The largest hornet I've ever seen, about 4-5 cm long landed beside Con while undersail. I scooped it up and tossed it overboard, but he just landed in the water, never flew away. I learned that these hornets are endangered in Germany and there's a 50,000 euro fine if you kill one.
We're watched all the time! Leaving Pirita (Tallinn's marina) the coast guard called us this morning on Channel 16 "Big Sky Big Sky Big Sky, this is the Coast Guard, turn to Channel 20. Destination? Last port?"
July 13, 2007 -- We left our tight slip at Lehtma, Estonia and blew to another tight marina docking, securing Big Sky with spring lines. Just just settling for dinner when another boat came in under high speed squishing in between our boat and our neighbour's running across our spring line. Con dashed out and quickly released the line. Just settling in for the night, about 11 pm, to our amazement, a 16 -meter wide yacht attempted to squeeze into a six-inch space to our right, and was successful! Talk about sardines in a can...
July 14, 2007 -- To Saaremaa We motored 100.6 NM to the Estonia Island of Saaremaa tying near the castle but not until we slithered through the rock-bordered shallows. Our draft is 2.1 or 2.2 depending on how much diesel and water aboard and we motored through 1.9 meter water and .02 meters of sludge. Sea gulls lined up on each side of the rocks six meters to our right and left to watch. We toured the Kuressaare Castle, the only entirely preserved medieval stone castle in all of the Baltics. A beautiful moat surrounds it. On the tall slope overlooking the moat we watched a mother swallow feeding her babies.
July 15, 2007 -- Land Tour We rented a car from the Harbour Master's friend to tour the island: The Kaali Meteorite Craters; various churches including the Kaarma Church, and buildings.
July 17, 2007 -- We left the island at 6:00pm for an overnight to Riga, Latvia. The three of us shared two-hour shifts, half the night under sail, and the final stint under motor. Not another vessel was seen that night, except a Swedish-flagged sail boat that crossed very close to our stern on my watch. The northern night was another beautiful one, leaving a full peach-tangerine skyline in the west when the sun set. During my shift a bright lime-green star fell into the sea to the east. Such a simple thing left me with such joy.
July 19, 2007 -- Latvia quite likely has some of the most beautiful young women and they don't mind showing off in various manners of dress. -- see-through tops, short skirts to show off their legs that go up to their armpits, perfect hair and make-up. By contrast, some of the older woman who lived through the Soviet occupation look tattered and worn out -- bent over, poor skin, teeth, and hair.
Generally the people speak English and are friendly. Tourism is just taking off in Latvia and Riga and by reflection, items are twice the price than in Estonia. One Lat is worth CND$2. Last night, we attended an Organ Concert in the enormous Dome Church, with all the large sounds coming from the one man/one organ.
July 20, 2007 -- A 12-hour motor/sail from Riga landed us in a commercial fishing harbour at the mouth of the Roja River. "Canada! Welcome!" People called out from the bridge above, many wanting to hear about our crossing from Canada (which of course we didn't do). Next stop: Ventspils, a major Soviet oil terminal and one of the richest town located on the west side of Latvia. At the helm, the Harbour Master called to me, "Use your anchor". That would be a new one for us, since we hadn't used our stern anchor yet. Con dropped it and I motored to the concrete quay. Albertine tossed the lines and we were secure for the 35-40 knots expected that night. The Ventspils pipelines have dried up, as a result of the bad relations between Russians and Latvians, putting the little town's future into jeopardy.
July 15, 2007 -- Land Tour We rented a car from the Harbour Master's friend to tour the island: The Kaali Meteorite Craters; various churches including the Kaarma Church, and buildings.
July 17, 2007 -- We left the island at 6:00pm for an overnight to Riga, Latvia. The three of us shared two-hour shifts, half the night under sail, and the final stint under motor. Not another vessel was seen that night, except a Swedish-flagged sail boat that crossed very close to our stern on my watch. The northern night was another beautiful one, leaving a full peach-tangerine skyline in the west when the sun set. During my shift a bright lime-green star fell into the sea to the east. Such a simple thing left me with such joy.
July 19, 2007 -- Latvia quite likely has some of the most beautiful young women and they don't mind showing off in various manners of dress. -- see-through tops, short skirts to show off their legs that go up to their armpits, perfect hair and make-up. By contrast, some of the older woman who lived through the Soviet occupation look tattered and worn out -- bent over, poor skin, teeth, and hair.
Generally the people speak English and are friendly. Tourism is just taking off in Latvia and Riga and by reflection, items are twice the price than in Estonia. One Lat is worth CND$2. Last night, we attended an Organ Concert in the enormous Dome Church, with all the large sounds coming from the one man/one organ.
July 20, 2007 -- A 12-hour motor/sail from Riga landed us in a commercial fishing harbour at the mouth of the Roja River. "Canada! Welcome!" People called out from the bridge above, many wanting to hear about our crossing from Canada (which of course we didn't do). Next stop: Ventspils, a major Soviet oil terminal and one of the richest town located on the west side of Latvia. At the helm, the Harbour Master called to me, "Use your anchor". That would be a new one for us, since we hadn't used our stern anchor yet. Con dropped it and I motored to the concrete quay. Albertine tossed the lines and we were secure for the 35-40 knots expected that night. The Ventspils pipelines have dried up, as a result of the bad relations between Russians and Latvians, putting the little town's future into jeopardy.
July 23, 2007 -- Anchor Stuck! As predicted, the high winds arrived just as we sat down for supper and Big Sky's bow hit the dock with a bang. Scrambling topside, Albertine at the bow lines, me at the stern anchor, and Con at the wheel. Albertine untied, as the crowd of sympathetic onlookers gathered. Con slowly backed up, as I pushed the anchor "up" button, but it was stuck. Con and I switched places so he could try lifting the anchor, but it wouldn't budge. We were in quite a pickle. At this point, I danced Big Sky in various angles (in the middle of the harbor) using the motor and bow thruster trying various positions to free the anchor. The wind was howling around us trying to take control of Big Sky. The Harbour Master arrived and called, "There's an old cable in the harbour, you're stuck on it!"
"Old Table?" Con scratched his head looking at me for confirmation.
"Old Cable."
"Take her back to the dock," Con said in defeat. I turned and aimed toward the spot we'd exited, now fairly blown in by the neighbour's boat. Keeping Big Sky angled as best as I could in the winds, ever so carefully I eased her back in, all the while the Swedish neighbours standing guard over their boat. Con tightened up the anchor as best he could, now knowing we were at the mercy of the "Old anchor" to hold us from the concrete. Albertine and Con tossed the lines to the eight or so men waiting to help. With the help of the bow thruster, I looked like a pro and once settled, the Border Guards applauded from their ship just behind and to my starboard, then applause from the people on the dock. Walking forward, the men called to me, "Good job Skipper!" I told Con that he may not be able to stand my ego for the next little while. A diver from another boat told Con he'd go down and check it tomorrow, "Because we're sea brothers." I was grateful that Con didn't volunteer for THAT job, since the anchor was stuck in 15 meters.
July 24, 2007 -- First thing this morning, our "sea brother" the diver went down as promised and freed Big Sky's anchor to which Con gave him a generous tip.
July 25, 2007 -- Exhilarating last sail for Albertine. Managing speeds of 9.2 knots to Liepaja with beam winds, we cut our travel time nearly in half. Latvian's seem to have forgiven the Soviets for their occupation but quickly secured a position with the EU to protect them from any future Soviet occupation. Previous conversation with the Ventspils, harbor master, a 30-year old entrepreneur shared that in his opinion, the current situation is not correctly reported in the media and that there is no animosity between the remaining Russians and the Latvians. The change to independence provided many positives for Latvia with corruption being the only remaining negative. To me, it's the concrete colourless, Russian four-walled buildings they erected. Many are now abandoned factories. We joined the many families out enjoying the summer picking forests berries and mushrooms. The Baltic States seem to be captured in time, with many towns still preserved in the medieval style, as if we've walked into yesterday.
July 27, 2007 -- Albertine flies home for CND$2. Con found a flight for Albertine from Leipaja to Riga for LAT$1 (CND$2), including coffee and a cookie. Con and I are now charting our next few weeks to connect with Lindsey and Courtney in England. We have some sailing ahead of us, since they arrive in a month.
"Old Table?" Con scratched his head looking at me for confirmation.
"Old Cable."
"Take her back to the dock," Con said in defeat. I turned and aimed toward the spot we'd exited, now fairly blown in by the neighbour's boat. Keeping Big Sky angled as best as I could in the winds, ever so carefully I eased her back in, all the while the Swedish neighbours standing guard over their boat. Con tightened up the anchor as best he could, now knowing we were at the mercy of the "Old anchor" to hold us from the concrete. Albertine and Con tossed the lines to the eight or so men waiting to help. With the help of the bow thruster, I looked like a pro and once settled, the Border Guards applauded from their ship just behind and to my starboard, then applause from the people on the dock. Walking forward, the men called to me, "Good job Skipper!" I told Con that he may not be able to stand my ego for the next little while. A diver from another boat told Con he'd go down and check it tomorrow, "Because we're sea brothers." I was grateful that Con didn't volunteer for THAT job, since the anchor was stuck in 15 meters.
July 24, 2007 -- First thing this morning, our "sea brother" the diver went down as promised and freed Big Sky's anchor to which Con gave him a generous tip.
July 25, 2007 -- Exhilarating last sail for Albertine. Managing speeds of 9.2 knots to Liepaja with beam winds, we cut our travel time nearly in half. Latvian's seem to have forgiven the Soviets for their occupation but quickly secured a position with the EU to protect them from any future Soviet occupation. Previous conversation with the Ventspils, harbor master, a 30-year old entrepreneur shared that in his opinion, the current situation is not correctly reported in the media and that there is no animosity between the remaining Russians and the Latvians. The change to independence provided many positives for Latvia with corruption being the only remaining negative. To me, it's the concrete colourless, Russian four-walled buildings they erected. Many are now abandoned factories. We joined the many families out enjoying the summer picking forests berries and mushrooms. The Baltic States seem to be captured in time, with many towns still preserved in the medieval style, as if we've walked into yesterday.
July 27, 2007 -- Albertine flies home for CND$2. Con found a flight for Albertine from Leipaja to Riga for LAT$1 (CND$2), including coffee and a cookie. Con and I are now charting our next few weeks to connect with Lindsey and Courtney in England. We have some sailing ahead of us, since they arrive in a month.
July 28, 2007-- Rough Seas! We anticipated rough waters nearing Liepaja's protective breakwater. Fifty meters from the exit, large rolling waves were breaking and soaring 20 meters high. We set up a reefed main for stability and and reefed jib on a 7-knot close haul in 30 knot winds. It wasn't a day for the fair-weather sailor. An hour into our sail, waves broke starboard coming into the cockpit and some over the dodger! Con remained outside tucked under the dodger and I took a position inside laying flat on the pilot house cushions to calm my sea-sick stomach. Eight hours and 51.2 NM later, we tied to the Klaipeda inner harbour dock. Con was called four times by the coast guard on the VHF to confirm the name of our vessel and our location. We listened to a "Man Overboard" Pan Pan, and we were delighted to hear he was rescued. Tough sailing day. The annual Klaipeda Festival of the Sea is on, with bands playing right outside our bow. We washed the salt out of our hair and every orifice and went to check it out.
July 29, 2007 -- The Festival of the Sea in Klaipeda. It appears alcohol has played a bad role in the Baltic States society. We see young and old staggering down streets drunk with beer bottles in hand. Sadly today, a young mom and dad poured beer into their baby's bottle and then ordered another for themselves.
We'll catch the winds tonight for our 140-NM sail to Poland, our longest sail yet. We'll pass near the Russian border south of us but we've been told not to cross the border or we could be pulled into Russia without a visa and that could result in chaos.
July 31, 2007 -- Klaipeda to Gydnia Poland Rescuing Lines This was our wildest ride yet, at times sailing in 35-knot winds, with Big Sky pounding into waves some appearing to be 5 meters high lifting our bow and banging her down. We stayed inside to steer from the pilot house. Twice, I had to leave the safety of the cockpit to rescue lines. Con had to concede that if one of us was tossed over, he could collect me faster than I'd collect him. I spotted the starboard bow line had gone overboard and was dragging in the water, a dangerous situation since it could get caught in the prop and foul the engine. Wearing my Gill storm suit and life jacket, I left the cockpit, keeping my knees bent low, slowly moving forward, one hand on the rail, and other on the pilot house handles. Seven steps remained where I'd only have my right arm holding the rail, nothing to hold onto with my left hand. Big Sky rose high just as I reached the line. I turned facing the rail holding tight with both hands. The hull came down hard with a loud bang and green water rushed over the bow . I could feel the danger under my feet and the water rushed passed. When the boat began to lift again, I pulled quickly wrapped it on the cleat and held tight. Bang! The water rushed under my feet again, and up my legs passed my knees! My bangs whipped around my face stinging my eyes with salt water. By the third bow lift, I managed to get all of the line secured topside and made my way back to the cockpit and then inside to change. That challenge was as great, balancing to take off all my wet clothes for dry ones. We had two-hour shifts through the night, watching the wind and traffic. Only two ships passed, and of all the routes available on the sea, both came frighteningly close. As dawn was breaking, the wind appeared to be okay to set sail again, and once we did, the winds shut up and we were going too fast -- 9.5 knots on a steep heel. Reefing became a major task. We turned Big Sky into the wind to free the pressure on the sail making a loud violent flapping motions in the sails. The jib lines tangled into knots needed to be cleared or we'd never furl the sail. This time, I put on the harness and hooked myself to the rail and went out on the heeling side, water once again rushing past my feet topsides, with the Baltic just a foot below on the crazy heel. I moved forward clipping and unclipping my harness to the rail until I reached the mess. Untangled it, and clipped and unclipped myself from the rail again for my return to the cockpit. Once again, I was challenged taking off my wet clothes for another set of dry. Seventeen hours later, we in Gydnia by 2 pm and starved, not having eaten since our departure. We had a bowl of chicken soup and a sandwich, collapsing into a dead sleep. Waking still hungry we set off by bike in the pouring rain to eat authentic Polish food at a restaurant.
Below: A brief look at the Danish Island
July 29, 2007 -- The Festival of the Sea in Klaipeda. It appears alcohol has played a bad role in the Baltic States society. We see young and old staggering down streets drunk with beer bottles in hand. Sadly today, a young mom and dad poured beer into their baby's bottle and then ordered another for themselves.
We'll catch the winds tonight for our 140-NM sail to Poland, our longest sail yet. We'll pass near the Russian border south of us but we've been told not to cross the border or we could be pulled into Russia without a visa and that could result in chaos.
July 31, 2007 -- Klaipeda to Gydnia Poland Rescuing Lines This was our wildest ride yet, at times sailing in 35-knot winds, with Big Sky pounding into waves some appearing to be 5 meters high lifting our bow and banging her down. We stayed inside to steer from the pilot house. Twice, I had to leave the safety of the cockpit to rescue lines. Con had to concede that if one of us was tossed over, he could collect me faster than I'd collect him. I spotted the starboard bow line had gone overboard and was dragging in the water, a dangerous situation since it could get caught in the prop and foul the engine. Wearing my Gill storm suit and life jacket, I left the cockpit, keeping my knees bent low, slowly moving forward, one hand on the rail, and other on the pilot house handles. Seven steps remained where I'd only have my right arm holding the rail, nothing to hold onto with my left hand. Big Sky rose high just as I reached the line. I turned facing the rail holding tight with both hands. The hull came down hard with a loud bang and green water rushed over the bow . I could feel the danger under my feet and the water rushed passed. When the boat began to lift again, I pulled quickly wrapped it on the cleat and held tight. Bang! The water rushed under my feet again, and up my legs passed my knees! My bangs whipped around my face stinging my eyes with salt water. By the third bow lift, I managed to get all of the line secured topside and made my way back to the cockpit and then inside to change. That challenge was as great, balancing to take off all my wet clothes for dry ones. We had two-hour shifts through the night, watching the wind and traffic. Only two ships passed, and of all the routes available on the sea, both came frighteningly close. As dawn was breaking, the wind appeared to be okay to set sail again, and once we did, the winds shut up and we were going too fast -- 9.5 knots on a steep heel. Reefing became a major task. We turned Big Sky into the wind to free the pressure on the sail making a loud violent flapping motions in the sails. The jib lines tangled into knots needed to be cleared or we'd never furl the sail. This time, I put on the harness and hooked myself to the rail and went out on the heeling side, water once again rushing past my feet topsides, with the Baltic just a foot below on the crazy heel. I moved forward clipping and unclipping my harness to the rail until I reached the mess. Untangled it, and clipped and unclipped myself from the rail again for my return to the cockpit. Once again, I was challenged taking off my wet clothes for another set of dry. Seventeen hours later, we in Gydnia by 2 pm and starved, not having eaten since our departure. We had a bowl of chicken soup and a sandwich, collapsing into a dead sleep. Waking still hungry we set off by bike in the pouring rain to eat authentic Polish food at a restaurant.
Below: A brief look at the Danish Island
August 1, 2007 -- Gydnia to Gdansk Poland Our jib had split in places following our crazy sail and both Con and I had tried separately to go up in the Bossom chair but failed. Con got half-way up and was laying flat in the chair. I brought him right back down. I got part-way up and couldn't free the jib. The female harbour master, a sail maker, Con and I managed to finally get it down. Something wasn't right with the hardware because it kept sticking. Both are currently being repaired.
Visiting the gorgeous city of Gydnia, called the City of Freedom, where in 1989, Lech Walesa, the Solidarity leader started Central Europe on its road to a peaceful freedom from communism.
August 4, 2007 -- We've crossed paths with Christen aboard the French-flagged sailboat Concerto. We first met him in Stockholm, and he crossed from Lithuania to Poland at the same time as us, during the rough sea keeping in touch a few times by VHF. During our crossing, the coast guard had called for Christen on the VHS asking, "Vessel at (giving the location of Concerto) please respond." After a few attempts and no response the coast guard called again, this time giving our GPS location. Con answered, "This is Big Sky..."
"Please spell," they asked.
"Bravo, India, Golf, pause Sierra, Kilo, Yankee".
"Can you see the boat near us?" The coast guard asked.
"Yes."
"What flag?"
"French," Con responded.
"What name?"
At the time we didn't know Christen's boat's name. Con responded. "Unknown."
The coast guard asked, "Please spell slowly."
"Uniform, November, Kilo, November, Oscar, Whisky, November."
August 6-8, 2007-- Overnight sailing as we traveled east -- Departing Poland in the morning we passed kilometers of crowded white-sand beaches. By night, we fell into our two-hour shifts arriving 26 hours later on the Danish island of Bornholm. My stomach was relieved to reach land, still suffering from sea sickness. Con pulled out our fold-up bikes and we cycled around the island, stuffing ourselves with the fresh sweetness of the delicious Danish danishes. That night, after scouting all over for the best restaurant for authentic Danish food, Con selected a place which unfortunately turned into a disaster. While Con struggled with food poisoning in one bathroom, I was throwing up in the other (from sea sickenss). Calling Con from his sick bed, I wanted him to see the jib which was rotating oddly, beyond where it should. He put on his life jacket, clipped to the rail and went forward to inspect. The pin had come out at the base of the jib rig twisting the rigging in rig's motor below. Rather than sail to the southern tip of Denmark, we immediately detoured to Warnemunden, Germany believing Germany was a better bet for repairs. Con managed to crank the 23-meters of sail using a six-inch winch. We now plotted our course through the Kiel Canal, a short cut to the North Sea. It was a major engineering feat in its day, built in 1895 to take the German fleet through rather than around Denmark. It's 53 nautical miles long, with two locks at each end.
August 9, 10, 2007 -- Tall Ships and Ship Repairs Con still recovering from food poisoning was resting when I woke him to tell him the Tall Ships (which we knew were in the region but hadn't seen yet) were coming into the canal. Con grabbed the camera and we sprinted to the water to watch. A Mexican Tall Ship was entering with about 100 sailors standing on the masts.
A repair man arrived by small boat, assessed the damage, checked his watch, and quickly jumped back into his small boat. Con asked, "What's happeing?"
"I'm on vacation in 10 minutes, my boy Heindrick will bring you the part tomorrow" and he was off.
In the morning, a 10-year old boy brought the part, Con and he secured it, and after stocking the fridge, checking the wind, we were off. Our next destination: The Keil Canal. leave from the east side of the green line, and will travel to Kiel (centre) and overnight there. Sunday morning, we'll go through the Keil Canal to shave seven hours off our journey. It would dump us into the German Bight which sounded ominous to me. We were charting our course to The Netherlands where Con's family would join us aboard.
Visiting the gorgeous city of Gydnia, called the City of Freedom, where in 1989, Lech Walesa, the Solidarity leader started Central Europe on its road to a peaceful freedom from communism.
August 4, 2007 -- We've crossed paths with Christen aboard the French-flagged sailboat Concerto. We first met him in Stockholm, and he crossed from Lithuania to Poland at the same time as us, during the rough sea keeping in touch a few times by VHF. During our crossing, the coast guard had called for Christen on the VHS asking, "Vessel at (giving the location of Concerto) please respond." After a few attempts and no response the coast guard called again, this time giving our GPS location. Con answered, "This is Big Sky..."
"Please spell," they asked.
"Bravo, India, Golf, pause Sierra, Kilo, Yankee".
"Can you see the boat near us?" The coast guard asked.
"Yes."
"What flag?"
"French," Con responded.
"What name?"
At the time we didn't know Christen's boat's name. Con responded. "Unknown."
The coast guard asked, "Please spell slowly."
"Uniform, November, Kilo, November, Oscar, Whisky, November."
August 6-8, 2007-- Overnight sailing as we traveled east -- Departing Poland in the morning we passed kilometers of crowded white-sand beaches. By night, we fell into our two-hour shifts arriving 26 hours later on the Danish island of Bornholm. My stomach was relieved to reach land, still suffering from sea sickness. Con pulled out our fold-up bikes and we cycled around the island, stuffing ourselves with the fresh sweetness of the delicious Danish danishes. That night, after scouting all over for the best restaurant for authentic Danish food, Con selected a place which unfortunately turned into a disaster. While Con struggled with food poisoning in one bathroom, I was throwing up in the other (from sea sickenss). Calling Con from his sick bed, I wanted him to see the jib which was rotating oddly, beyond where it should. He put on his life jacket, clipped to the rail and went forward to inspect. The pin had come out at the base of the jib rig twisting the rigging in rig's motor below. Rather than sail to the southern tip of Denmark, we immediately detoured to Warnemunden, Germany believing Germany was a better bet for repairs. Con managed to crank the 23-meters of sail using a six-inch winch. We now plotted our course through the Kiel Canal, a short cut to the North Sea. It was a major engineering feat in its day, built in 1895 to take the German fleet through rather than around Denmark. It's 53 nautical miles long, with two locks at each end.
August 9, 10, 2007 -- Tall Ships and Ship Repairs Con still recovering from food poisoning was resting when I woke him to tell him the Tall Ships (which we knew were in the region but hadn't seen yet) were coming into the canal. Con grabbed the camera and we sprinted to the water to watch. A Mexican Tall Ship was entering with about 100 sailors standing on the masts.
A repair man arrived by small boat, assessed the damage, checked his watch, and quickly jumped back into his small boat. Con asked, "What's happeing?"
"I'm on vacation in 10 minutes, my boy Heindrick will bring you the part tomorrow" and he was off.
In the morning, a 10-year old boy brought the part, Con and he secured it, and after stocking the fridge, checking the wind, we were off. Our next destination: The Keil Canal. leave from the east side of the green line, and will travel to Kiel (centre) and overnight there. Sunday morning, we'll go through the Keil Canal to shave seven hours off our journey. It would dump us into the German Bight which sounded ominous to me. We were charting our course to The Netherlands where Con's family would join us aboard.
August 12-14, 2007 -- Once through the Kiel Canal, we motor/sailed into the North Sea challenged by tides and currents. We either gained 2-3 knot speeds or fought 2-3 knots. The Elboe River (the waterway that led us into the German Bight) has drying areas. The tide can lower the sea by up to 3.5 meters. About 1.5 hours out to sea, we noticed a boat circling so we sailed close to check that they were okay. Turned out it was a funeral at sea, and we sailed right over the lilies and ashes. Our sail to The Netherlands is expected to take 29 hours with nowhere to stop and with many shallows. We continued our two-hours night watches, remaining inside with clear visibility through the pilot house windows. In Cuxhaven, they were dredging the sea for bigger boats to enter Den Helder . Seagulls were having a feast as the fish were dredged up to the surface. Entering Den Helder at 3 pm we showered and found a nice restaurant to celebrate our anniversary. Three years ago we married in our sunny floral backyard with our four daughters standing up as witnesses.
August 16, 2007 -- The weather report stated: "Rain in the morning, strong winds tapering off by noon, clearing trends with afternoon Beaufort 3-4 winds." Since we'd waited a day for better weather, this sounded pretty good. I motored out of the protected marina at 11:30am with high tide, still trying to get a fix on the GPS.
"Head toward the ferry," Con said. I kept my route thinking it was silly to aim toward a ferry. "Head toward the ferry Barb," he repeated.
Finally a fix, Oh my God! I'd taken us right into the shallows and if it hadn't been for high tide, we'd have beached Big Sky. I made a swift detour toward the ferry. The weather was not what was predicted. Waves were high and winds blew Beaufort 6 & 7, and then climbed to 8 & 9! The Beaufort Scale goes from 1 - 10. One is a smooth sea, light breeze; 10 is a storm with very severe conditions. The wind went from strong breeze, 22-27 knots to a strong gale with 41-47 knots. The waves were mounting higher and higher now breaking on the top of the pilot house. The winds howled. During our five-hour journey, we listened to five Search and Rescues on VHF 16. One couple called a Pan Pan when their line caught in their propeller and they were drifting into rocks. A May Day was called from an inland freighter loaded with sand taking on too much water. He wouldn't give his exact location despite the many requests from coast guards and it sunk. An illegal stowaway jumped overboard, believing he'd been discovered. And then two other rescues were called, but they were too far for us to hear their problems.
August 18th -- Picnic aboard Safely tied at the Ijmeiden Harbour, Con's 91-year-old mom, two sisters, and brother arrived with armfuls of food, gifts, and flowers for a picnic aboard and a five-hour sail passed the country side and into the heart of Amsterdam. (Ijmeiden is at the mouth of the Nordzee Canal, a protected waterway with locks to protect The Netherlands from being buried by the North Sea.) Jan kindly drove Nomie, Geert, Lois, Anna and Albertine to Ijmuiden by car and planned to join us in Muiden to collect the family again. Nomie, curious about everything on Big Sky, quickly moved in on Geert behind the wheel and took her turn at navigating us down the Nordzee Canal. We traveled the inland route. It was an almost perfect day, with the rain holding off until our arrival at Muiden. Not familiar with the docking style, we took up positions: Geert at the stern, Albertine at the bow, me standing with the boat hook ready to catch the line in the water attached to the dolphin pole, and Con at the wheel. He expertly backed Big Sky into the slip holding steady with the cross wind when Big Sky's keel parked itself (in the shallow water) about a meter from the dock. We did our best to tie up, despite the many comments from the lady Harbour Master shouting in Dutch about what we should be doing instead of what we were doing. In the end, we were all happy and went inside for Happy Hour.
August 20, 2007 -- Frans, Marianne, and Robin joined us for lunch, Con's nephew and family. Robin is our youngest visitor -- so far. He was busy counting all the winches, feeding the ducks, checking out all the equipment, jib lines and the engine room.
August 16, 2007 -- The weather report stated: "Rain in the morning, strong winds tapering off by noon, clearing trends with afternoon Beaufort 3-4 winds." Since we'd waited a day for better weather, this sounded pretty good. I motored out of the protected marina at 11:30am with high tide, still trying to get a fix on the GPS.
"Head toward the ferry," Con said. I kept my route thinking it was silly to aim toward a ferry. "Head toward the ferry Barb," he repeated.
Finally a fix, Oh my God! I'd taken us right into the shallows and if it hadn't been for high tide, we'd have beached Big Sky. I made a swift detour toward the ferry. The weather was not what was predicted. Waves were high and winds blew Beaufort 6 & 7, and then climbed to 8 & 9! The Beaufort Scale goes from 1 - 10. One is a smooth sea, light breeze; 10 is a storm with very severe conditions. The wind went from strong breeze, 22-27 knots to a strong gale with 41-47 knots. The waves were mounting higher and higher now breaking on the top of the pilot house. The winds howled. During our five-hour journey, we listened to five Search and Rescues on VHF 16. One couple called a Pan Pan when their line caught in their propeller and they were drifting into rocks. A May Day was called from an inland freighter loaded with sand taking on too much water. He wouldn't give his exact location despite the many requests from coast guards and it sunk. An illegal stowaway jumped overboard, believing he'd been discovered. And then two other rescues were called, but they were too far for us to hear their problems.
August 18th -- Picnic aboard Safely tied at the Ijmeiden Harbour, Con's 91-year-old mom, two sisters, and brother arrived with armfuls of food, gifts, and flowers for a picnic aboard and a five-hour sail passed the country side and into the heart of Amsterdam. (Ijmeiden is at the mouth of the Nordzee Canal, a protected waterway with locks to protect The Netherlands from being buried by the North Sea.) Jan kindly drove Nomie, Geert, Lois, Anna and Albertine to Ijmuiden by car and planned to join us in Muiden to collect the family again. Nomie, curious about everything on Big Sky, quickly moved in on Geert behind the wheel and took her turn at navigating us down the Nordzee Canal. We traveled the inland route. It was an almost perfect day, with the rain holding off until our arrival at Muiden. Not familiar with the docking style, we took up positions: Geert at the stern, Albertine at the bow, me standing with the boat hook ready to catch the line in the water attached to the dolphin pole, and Con at the wheel. He expertly backed Big Sky into the slip holding steady with the cross wind when Big Sky's keel parked itself (in the shallow water) about a meter from the dock. We did our best to tie up, despite the many comments from the lady Harbour Master shouting in Dutch about what we should be doing instead of what we were doing. In the end, we were all happy and went inside for Happy Hour.
August 20, 2007 -- Frans, Marianne, and Robin joined us for lunch, Con's nephew and family. Robin is our youngest visitor -- so far. He was busy counting all the winches, feeding the ducks, checking out all the equipment, jib lines and the engine room.
August 24, 2007 -- We're in MacDonalds, maybe the only WiFi location in Ostende, Belgium. Arriving late in the night, by morning, we saw that we were directly in front of the main town with spectacular Tall Ship behind us. Belgium, our eleventh country is beautiful, clean, and friendly. Ostende has a marvelous beach promenade with wide sidewalks, stores, beach property for rent facing the North Sea, and hundreds of beach sheds lining the beach. People show up rain or shine, pull out their chairs from the sheds and enjoy the day. The weather has been poor in Europe, overcast, rain off and on, and cooler days. We're days away from collecting Lindsey and Courtney across the English Channel in Brighton.
August 26, 2007 -- To Brugge With the speed with which we've been travelling, touring has become a luxury and that's what we did today. By train, we visited Brugge (about 20 minutes from Ostende) arriving in one of the most beautiful cities we've seen.
Brugbge was celebrating the "Pageant of the Golden Tree," a well done theatre production in the form of a parade. The central theme is the "Tournament of the Golden Tree" a tradition since 1468 in the Market square on the occasion of the wedding of Charles the Bold, Count of Flanders and Duke of Burgundy, with the English Princess Margaret of York. There were more than 2000 actors, 6 giants and 12 floats. The next day, we woke early, biked to the train station, folded up our bikes and took a seat for Lille, France, 150 miles from Ostende and about two hours by train. Lille is a spectacular compact city, and for us, a great introduction to France. It's the birthplace of Charles de Gaulle and Louis Pasteur. The centre of the city is made up of beautiful old buildings with architecture dating back many centuries. There was a fantastic citadel from Napoleonic times. We loved the busy cobblestone paved streets filled with local people enjoying outside brasseries (cafes) and the many different shops. Croix, France was just an 8 kilometer bike ride from Lille, so we biked to the Victoria Yachting store and placed our purchase for custom-made sheets for Big Sky. We'd had their catalogue for a year, so it was great to be able to walk into their only store and finally place an order. While in Belgium, we enjoyed Belgium Endives for dinner, prepared by Con.
August 29, 2007 -- To France We're finding the English language hard to come by in France, but luckily Con has high school French. Con can get by with his small knowledge of German, French, Flemish, Dutch and English languages, the latter two of course he's fluent. We walked all over the downtown "old" section of Boulogne-sur-Mer, France buying fresh foods from the market and taking it back to Big Sky for a picnic in the cockpit. The tides here are astounding, 6 meters! We arrived at low tide deep in the marina surrounded by concrete walls, by morning, the city was all around us.
August 26, 2007 -- To Brugge With the speed with which we've been travelling, touring has become a luxury and that's what we did today. By train, we visited Brugge (about 20 minutes from Ostende) arriving in one of the most beautiful cities we've seen.
Brugbge was celebrating the "Pageant of the Golden Tree," a well done theatre production in the form of a parade. The central theme is the "Tournament of the Golden Tree" a tradition since 1468 in the Market square on the occasion of the wedding of Charles the Bold, Count of Flanders and Duke of Burgundy, with the English Princess Margaret of York. There were more than 2000 actors, 6 giants and 12 floats. The next day, we woke early, biked to the train station, folded up our bikes and took a seat for Lille, France, 150 miles from Ostende and about two hours by train. Lille is a spectacular compact city, and for us, a great introduction to France. It's the birthplace of Charles de Gaulle and Louis Pasteur. The centre of the city is made up of beautiful old buildings with architecture dating back many centuries. There was a fantastic citadel from Napoleonic times. We loved the busy cobblestone paved streets filled with local people enjoying outside brasseries (cafes) and the many different shops. Croix, France was just an 8 kilometer bike ride from Lille, so we biked to the Victoria Yachting store and placed our purchase for custom-made sheets for Big Sky. We'd had their catalogue for a year, so it was great to be able to walk into their only store and finally place an order. While in Belgium, we enjoyed Belgium Endives for dinner, prepared by Con.
August 29, 2007 -- To France We're finding the English language hard to come by in France, but luckily Con has high school French. Con can get by with his small knowledge of German, French, Flemish, Dutch and English languages, the latter two of course he's fluent. We walked all over the downtown "old" section of Boulogne-sur-Mer, France buying fresh foods from the market and taking it back to Big Sky for a picnic in the cockpit. The tides here are astounding, 6 meters! We arrived at low tide deep in the marina surrounded by concrete walls, by morning, the city was all around us.
September 1, 2007 -- A test of patience! After 4 1/2 months of separation, I'll see my daughters again, Lindsey 26, Courtney 23. The anticipation was almost more than I could take. We'd been apart before, when both girls worked separately in Mexico for a few months, but this separation was different, as we were still grieving Larry's death.
From Heathrow they were making their way by subway to the Victoria Train Station, where for 22 pounds (about $50 Canadian!) they locked up their luggage and toured London for the next three hours. They'll take a train from London to Brighton and that's where we'll be waiting for them, close to 9pm. In the pitch black night, Con and I walked the long boardwalk high above the crashing waves to the first boardwalk intersection, took a bench, and waited. We heard the click click click of their bags rolling on the wooden walkway before we saw them and I ran off in the dark toward the sound. The three of us hugged, laughed, and cried not wanting to let go. Con joined the hug after we'd had our fill. We talked till midnight and then were up at the crack of dawn to depart England for Dieppe, France. Our broad reach sail was perfect, reaching about 9.5 knots at times, arriving 10 hours later. As we neared Dieppe, I told the girls to "watch" for the first docking as Con and I would take them in and tie up. I no sooner that, looked over my shoulder and there was Courtney at the helm driving us through Dieppe's choppy breakwater into the marina. Lindsey looked at her with such pride. get over their jet lag. Lindsey put out the bumpers and expertly threw the lines to a couple of men standing at the dock. No one would have known it was their first sailing experience! Big Sky barely settled from being tied up, and they were out and roaming the beautiful quaint streets.
September 4, 2007 -- The four of us walked everywhere ending the night with a great dinner and a game of dice, another walk around Dieppe an expresso which arrived with a glass of ice on the side. (Con's French had let us down, since he thought he ordered a round of coffee with ice cream in it.)
September 5, 2007 -- Con made an early visit to the boulangrie (bakery) for our breakfast and we left Dieppe at 7 a.m., arriving at FeCamp during high tide. Lindsey drove us out of the harbor into three meter high waves at the breakwater, and Courtney drove us into the next harbour again. We hiked around the quaint little town, and spotted a small cafe/bar to return to for dinner. We were celebrating Con and my 4th month on Big Sky. Leaving FeCamp around 9 a.m., we motor/sailed to Deauville seeing some of the most beautiful sites along the way.
September 8, 2007 -- Finally, a sunny day! We motored up the Caen Canal to Ouistreham, a touristy town just inside the lock that separates us from the English Channel. We would sail to St. Vaast-La-Hougue, about 45 nautical miles in the morning, and Con and Lindsey checked the tide tables to plan our best departure and arrival. A miscalculation would mean we'd arrive to a drying area and have to wait out at sea. Just before leaving Caen, Lindsey and Courtney came aboard with sun flowers... my favorite. We arrived at Deauville, France just at high tide to go through the lock. There were just inches to spare between Big Sky and the silted bottom. Con took out the bikes and we all explored the cool town. That night, we celebrated Lindsey and Courtney's birthdays (Sept. 18 & Oct. 4th) because we wouldn't be together then. They headed downtown to catch Ben Affleck and other actors walking the red carpet at 7:30 pm.
We needed to leave Deauville precisely when the locks opened (preferable sooner) but the lock operator didn't start his shift until 6:30 am. We told the girls to sleep in. By 6:40 am, seven minutes from high tide, finally the lock operator opened the gate. We motored precarious down the unmarked channel toward the ocean hoping to be in the river path, but we weren't. Big Sky's keel sucked into the muddy bottom. Con pushed the throttle full blast, blasting the bow thruster left and right, but there was still no movement. I watched the GPS readings carefully. Two minutes to high tide and then it would quickly fall. Con continued with the bow thruster and engine and Big Sky began to rock its way out of the silted bottom. The girls woke and stood in the companion doorway silently. We were moving! The depth reader numbers sbegan to rise even as the tide was dropping. We nearly grounded ourselves in a drying area. High tide again would not be until 5 pm. We were two minutes from the tide dropping and ending our adventures right there!
From Heathrow they were making their way by subway to the Victoria Train Station, where for 22 pounds (about $50 Canadian!) they locked up their luggage and toured London for the next three hours. They'll take a train from London to Brighton and that's where we'll be waiting for them, close to 9pm. In the pitch black night, Con and I walked the long boardwalk high above the crashing waves to the first boardwalk intersection, took a bench, and waited. We heard the click click click of their bags rolling on the wooden walkway before we saw them and I ran off in the dark toward the sound. The three of us hugged, laughed, and cried not wanting to let go. Con joined the hug after we'd had our fill. We talked till midnight and then were up at the crack of dawn to depart England for Dieppe, France. Our broad reach sail was perfect, reaching about 9.5 knots at times, arriving 10 hours later. As we neared Dieppe, I told the girls to "watch" for the first docking as Con and I would take them in and tie up. I no sooner that, looked over my shoulder and there was Courtney at the helm driving us through Dieppe's choppy breakwater into the marina. Lindsey looked at her with such pride. get over their jet lag. Lindsey put out the bumpers and expertly threw the lines to a couple of men standing at the dock. No one would have known it was their first sailing experience! Big Sky barely settled from being tied up, and they were out and roaming the beautiful quaint streets.
September 4, 2007 -- The four of us walked everywhere ending the night with a great dinner and a game of dice, another walk around Dieppe an expresso which arrived with a glass of ice on the side. (Con's French had let us down, since he thought he ordered a round of coffee with ice cream in it.)
September 5, 2007 -- Con made an early visit to the boulangrie (bakery) for our breakfast and we left Dieppe at 7 a.m., arriving at FeCamp during high tide. Lindsey drove us out of the harbor into three meter high waves at the breakwater, and Courtney drove us into the next harbour again. We hiked around the quaint little town, and spotted a small cafe/bar to return to for dinner. We were celebrating Con and my 4th month on Big Sky. Leaving FeCamp around 9 a.m., we motor/sailed to Deauville seeing some of the most beautiful sites along the way.
September 8, 2007 -- Finally, a sunny day! We motored up the Caen Canal to Ouistreham, a touristy town just inside the lock that separates us from the English Channel. We would sail to St. Vaast-La-Hougue, about 45 nautical miles in the morning, and Con and Lindsey checked the tide tables to plan our best departure and arrival. A miscalculation would mean we'd arrive to a drying area and have to wait out at sea. Just before leaving Caen, Lindsey and Courtney came aboard with sun flowers... my favorite. We arrived at Deauville, France just at high tide to go through the lock. There were just inches to spare between Big Sky and the silted bottom. Con took out the bikes and we all explored the cool town. That night, we celebrated Lindsey and Courtney's birthdays (Sept. 18 & Oct. 4th) because we wouldn't be together then. They headed downtown to catch Ben Affleck and other actors walking the red carpet at 7:30 pm.
We needed to leave Deauville precisely when the locks opened (preferable sooner) but the lock operator didn't start his shift until 6:30 am. We told the girls to sleep in. By 6:40 am, seven minutes from high tide, finally the lock operator opened the gate. We motored precarious down the unmarked channel toward the ocean hoping to be in the river path, but we weren't. Big Sky's keel sucked into the muddy bottom. Con pushed the throttle full blast, blasting the bow thruster left and right, but there was still no movement. I watched the GPS readings carefully. Two minutes to high tide and then it would quickly fall. Con continued with the bow thruster and engine and Big Sky began to rock its way out of the silted bottom. The girls woke and stood in the companion doorway silently. We were moving! The depth reader numbers sbegan to rise even as the tide was dropping. We nearly grounded ourselves in a drying area. High tide again would not be until 5 pm. We were two minutes from the tide dropping and ending our adventures right there!
September 9, 2007 -- Traveling Through WWII History Sailing around the Normandy coast evidence of the horrific WWII destruction was all around us. We visited D-Day landing beaches, the Men's Monastery built in 1066 filled with WWII bullet holes and partially bombed churches and new reconstructed buildings. Everything had been flattened except parts of the stone churches. Everywhere we traveled WWI and WWII plaques listed the dead. The Memorial de Caen was a powerful and deep journey of the wars through letters, videos and tapes. One eerie letter written by a young German soldier to his aunt said "The poor sods just kept coming onto the beach and we took them out... 3000 of them and no casualties for us. Some of them pretended to be dead and laid on the beach... when the tide came in, they had to move, so we picked them off too."
September 10, 2007 -- Locks aren't as easy as they look. Con drove us into a lock while a strong current tried to control our 27 tons. Courtney used the boat stick to hook us to the cable at the stern, but there wasn't another cable for Lindsey at the bow. I had planned to climb to land and secure us and heard Courtney saying calmly, "I can't hold it, I can't hold it." I looked. She was half in and half out of the boat not wanting to release her hold on the lock. When she did, the hook went into the lock. Con tried the landing again, this time I was able to climb to land and attached the lines, Courtney hooked again using the second stick and then rescued the first stick once we were tied.
September 11, 2007 -- In Cherbourg we discovered an internal hose leak. While in the cockpit, we heard the bilge continually running. Con turned off the water and we each took a position in the boat ready. Con turned on the water and Lindsey called, "Here!" the hot water hose had torn behind the guest toilet. Con contorted his body to fit into tiny crevasse and managed to replace the hose for 21 euro. We decided we ought to celebrate the accomplishment with a really nice French cuisine dinner. That afternoon, Customs and Immigration had instructed all people aboard the boat beside us to step out and stand on the pier. The drug-sniffing dog went through the boat for the next few hours. The officers would take out a bag, a person would identify it, and the dog would sniff. We don't think anything was found.
September 10, 2007 -- Locks aren't as easy as they look. Con drove us into a lock while a strong current tried to control our 27 tons. Courtney used the boat stick to hook us to the cable at the stern, but there wasn't another cable for Lindsey at the bow. I had planned to climb to land and secure us and heard Courtney saying calmly, "I can't hold it, I can't hold it." I looked. She was half in and half out of the boat not wanting to release her hold on the lock. When she did, the hook went into the lock. Con tried the landing again, this time I was able to climb to land and attached the lines, Courtney hooked again using the second stick and then rescued the first stick once we were tied.
September 11, 2007 -- In Cherbourg we discovered an internal hose leak. While in the cockpit, we heard the bilge continually running. Con turned off the water and we each took a position in the boat ready. Con turned on the water and Lindsey called, "Here!" the hot water hose had torn behind the guest toilet. Con contorted his body to fit into tiny crevasse and managed to replace the hose for 21 euro. We decided we ought to celebrate the accomplishment with a really nice French cuisine dinner. That afternoon, Customs and Immigration had instructed all people aboard the boat beside us to step out and stand on the pier. The drug-sniffing dog went through the boat for the next few hours. The officers would take out a bag, a person would identify it, and the dog would sniff. We don't think anything was found.
September 12, 2007 -- To the Channel Islands Off to Guernsey, an English Island off France. Since the weather was 27 degrees, we stopped mid journey and Con decided to check the sacrificial anodes located under the boat and dove in. Nobody joined him, as the water was cold. Anodes were good. On the way to Guernsey, we listened to the VHF as "Never Say Never" a 62-foot yacht hit the rocks.
September 14, 2007 -- 11.5 hours to Granville Tide timing was just right arriving at the harbor entrance with 3 meters of water and the marina doors closed. Every 12 hours the tide rises 36 feet and drops to drying land. On the 16th, we said "good bye" to Lindsey and Courtney knowing that we'd be together again in December. They toured London, and together we connected in Brighton and toured Dieppe, Fecamp, Deauville, Caen, Ouistreham, St Vaast-La-Hougue, Cherbourg, St. Peters Port, (an English island), and finally Granville, France. We've had some of our best sails with sunshine and perfect winds, and our scariest moments when we got stuck in the silty marina entrance just as the tide was falling. We've seen Napoleon's stronghold where he had hoped to launch his attack on England; William the Conqueror's castle; beautiful churches that survived the war; and remnants of others that did not. We visited a brilliantly done WWII Memorial Museum, walked under and on top of the beautiful white cliffs, and sailed past the D-Day beaches. We've seen the red carpet and paparazzi as they swarmed Ben Affleck in Deauville and listened to "Never Say Never" ground their huge yacht on the rocks. But, the best time by far was just the simple moments we shared together. I miss them already! They brought a special light and joy to Big Sky while they were here.
September 17, 2007 -- Alarm Failure Con set his watch alarm for 3:30 am to deliver Lindsey and Courtney to Charles de Gaulle airport for their 1:30 pm flight. We were also picking up Kris and five-month pregnant Brit who will arrive at 1 pm, on the same flight Lindsey and Courtney are returning home on. We woke late, the alarm not going off. "Hurry, grab your stuff," Con called and we clambered into the car. I had the GPS route set, but it kept having us leave the highway for dirt paths. After about the third time we exited the highway, we realized the GPS was set for bike route. Precious time was passing, but we got the girls there just in time to hug and shoo them through security as Kris and Brit exited their gate. Once back in our car Con's watch alarm went off. It was now 3:30 am in Canada.
September 14, 2007 -- 11.5 hours to Granville Tide timing was just right arriving at the harbor entrance with 3 meters of water and the marina doors closed. Every 12 hours the tide rises 36 feet and drops to drying land. On the 16th, we said "good bye" to Lindsey and Courtney knowing that we'd be together again in December. They toured London, and together we connected in Brighton and toured Dieppe, Fecamp, Deauville, Caen, Ouistreham, St Vaast-La-Hougue, Cherbourg, St. Peters Port, (an English island), and finally Granville, France. We've had some of our best sails with sunshine and perfect winds, and our scariest moments when we got stuck in the silty marina entrance just as the tide was falling. We've seen Napoleon's stronghold where he had hoped to launch his attack on England; William the Conqueror's castle; beautiful churches that survived the war; and remnants of others that did not. We visited a brilliantly done WWII Memorial Museum, walked under and on top of the beautiful white cliffs, and sailed past the D-Day beaches. We've seen the red carpet and paparazzi as they swarmed Ben Affleck in Deauville and listened to "Never Say Never" ground their huge yacht on the rocks. But, the best time by far was just the simple moments we shared together. I miss them already! They brought a special light and joy to Big Sky while they were here.
September 17, 2007 -- Alarm Failure Con set his watch alarm for 3:30 am to deliver Lindsey and Courtney to Charles de Gaulle airport for their 1:30 pm flight. We were also picking up Kris and five-month pregnant Brit who will arrive at 1 pm, on the same flight Lindsey and Courtney are returning home on. We woke late, the alarm not going off. "Hurry, grab your stuff," Con called and we clambered into the car. I had the GPS route set, but it kept having us leave the highway for dirt paths. After about the third time we exited the highway, we realized the GPS was set for bike route. Precious time was passing, but we got the girls there just in time to hug and shoo them through security as Kris and Brit exited their gate. Once back in our car Con's watch alarm went off. It was now 3:30 am in Canada.
September 18, 2007 -- Touring by car Happy Birthday Lindsey, 27 today!
Brit, Kris, Con and I spent the day touring Normandy by car arriving at Bayeux, situated just behind the D-Day beaches, an incredibly well preserved small old town, with one of the most beautiful churches we've seen. We drove to Juno Beach where on June 6th, 1944, the Canadians experienced one of the most critical battles of WWII. We ended the day's touring at the Canadian cemetery, where row after row of white marble stones marked the deaths. It was emotional reading the etching on the stones, many written by the mothers to their lost sons, so many in their early 20's. Canada (with our association with Great Britain) had declared War on Germany on September 10, 1939 and was terribly unprepared for any military conflict, but nevertheless, sent more than 16,000 men. My grandpa (dad's dad George Evans) a farmer by trade served in both WWII and WWI, fighting at Vimy Ridge and Paschendale. Kris' grandfather was one of the survivors who landed on Juno Beach. The Allies had realized that to knock out Germany they would need to launch a cross-Channel invasion of France. The remnants of the many German bunkers dot the beaches today. They say that the most astonishing thing about the invasion was the fact that the greatest armada of ships ever to leave Great Britain sailed 140 km across the English Channel towards German-occupied France without being detected.
The winds kicked up to 31 knots in the marina in the night and knowing Brit doesn't like sailing, it was easy to decide to stay another day. Eating breakfast in the sunny cockpit, we spotted our friend from Sweden and the Baltic States, Christen aboard "Concerto" sail into the harbor. turns out Granville is Christen's home port. We shared a drink together that night before he left for home -- Paris.
September 19, 2007 -- Granville to St. Malo The waves were too bumpy for Brit on our 3.5 hour motor which wasn't a surprise in retrospect since the wind had been kicking up the water. After about an hour Brit relaxed with a magazine and Kris and Con chatted the rest of the way. Nearly in St. Malo, sea sickness attacked Kris and he laid flat in the pilot house. St. Malo is the home of explorer Jacques Cartier who explored Canada.
September 21, 2007 -- To Paimpol As dawn approached we made our exit (at 6 am) with Kris at the helm. Brit had a good sleep, rising at 10 am just as the French Border Patrol announced that they'd be "boarding immediately." After going through all our papers, they were satisfied that our VAT (European taxes) were paid and promptly left with a friendly wave. The scenery was beautiful, the wind was perfect for a good sail but as soon as the sails went up, Brit became overwhelmed by the heeling and Con promptly took them down. Ironically, we were entering Paimpol at the lowest low tide of the year! Our 2.2 keel slugged through 2 meters stirring up the mud. We got through the lock just barely into the marina and the keel planted in 1.8 meters of mud. The lock doors were barely able to close from our stern. The four of us set off on foot and explored quaint little cobblestone town. It's a working fishing port that once set off to Iceland and Newfoundland fishing for cod and whales. Boys as young as 12 set off to the Grand Banks, returning as young men.
September 22, 2007 -- Waiting for higher low tide We're hoping that later today Big Sky will float again, as the lowest low tide of the year has passed. To exit, we will need to take our departure through the river of ocean water that ebbs and flows. Big Sky's tracks in the mud are visible when the land dries.
Brit, Kris, Con and I spent the day touring Normandy by car arriving at Bayeux, situated just behind the D-Day beaches, an incredibly well preserved small old town, with one of the most beautiful churches we've seen. We drove to Juno Beach where on June 6th, 1944, the Canadians experienced one of the most critical battles of WWII. We ended the day's touring at the Canadian cemetery, where row after row of white marble stones marked the deaths. It was emotional reading the etching on the stones, many written by the mothers to their lost sons, so many in their early 20's. Canada (with our association with Great Britain) had declared War on Germany on September 10, 1939 and was terribly unprepared for any military conflict, but nevertheless, sent more than 16,000 men. My grandpa (dad's dad George Evans) a farmer by trade served in both WWII and WWI, fighting at Vimy Ridge and Paschendale. Kris' grandfather was one of the survivors who landed on Juno Beach. The Allies had realized that to knock out Germany they would need to launch a cross-Channel invasion of France. The remnants of the many German bunkers dot the beaches today. They say that the most astonishing thing about the invasion was the fact that the greatest armada of ships ever to leave Great Britain sailed 140 km across the English Channel towards German-occupied France without being detected.
The winds kicked up to 31 knots in the marina in the night and knowing Brit doesn't like sailing, it was easy to decide to stay another day. Eating breakfast in the sunny cockpit, we spotted our friend from Sweden and the Baltic States, Christen aboard "Concerto" sail into the harbor. turns out Granville is Christen's home port. We shared a drink together that night before he left for home -- Paris.
September 19, 2007 -- Granville to St. Malo The waves were too bumpy for Brit on our 3.5 hour motor which wasn't a surprise in retrospect since the wind had been kicking up the water. After about an hour Brit relaxed with a magazine and Kris and Con chatted the rest of the way. Nearly in St. Malo, sea sickness attacked Kris and he laid flat in the pilot house. St. Malo is the home of explorer Jacques Cartier who explored Canada.
September 21, 2007 -- To Paimpol As dawn approached we made our exit (at 6 am) with Kris at the helm. Brit had a good sleep, rising at 10 am just as the French Border Patrol announced that they'd be "boarding immediately." After going through all our papers, they were satisfied that our VAT (European taxes) were paid and promptly left with a friendly wave. The scenery was beautiful, the wind was perfect for a good sail but as soon as the sails went up, Brit became overwhelmed by the heeling and Con promptly took them down. Ironically, we were entering Paimpol at the lowest low tide of the year! Our 2.2 keel slugged through 2 meters stirring up the mud. We got through the lock just barely into the marina and the keel planted in 1.8 meters of mud. The lock doors were barely able to close from our stern. The four of us set off on foot and explored quaint little cobblestone town. It's a working fishing port that once set off to Iceland and Newfoundland fishing for cod and whales. Boys as young as 12 set off to the Grand Banks, returning as young men.
September 22, 2007 -- Waiting for higher low tide We're hoping that later today Big Sky will float again, as the lowest low tide of the year has passed. To exit, we will need to take our departure through the river of ocean water that ebbs and flows. Big Sky's tracks in the mud are visible when the land dries.
September 23 -- Nasty Nasty Nasty Con told Brit we could end the sailing here, no problem, or we take the 20-minute slack tide window and move from Lexardieux to Treguier believing we'd end our holiday with them there. Bravely Brit said, while rubbing her belly letting anxiety spill out in her words, "Let's move on." I secured all the cocks, locked the windows, and Con aimed for the river mouth. A standing wave met us. Big Sky dipped deep into each roll unable to rise again before the next enormous one hammered us down further. A third wave hit hard, swallowing us like a giant green monster and then our bow rose, rose, rose. We lifted to an obscene height exposing our hull and then plunging again. Water was everywhere. I remained composed so we wouldn't scare the kids. Once through Kris called to me, "Hey Barb, was that the worst you've had?"
"No," I lied. I looked out and couldn't tell where the ocean met the sky, both were the same charcoal colour. Rain pelted down in combination with the waves like shrapnel.
September 24 -- Hit a Rock! Kris had a good taste of the Atlantic Ocean (literally) driving us partway to Treguier in what continued to be nasty water. He was soaked. The conditions continued, 30 - 33 knot winds and massive-sized waves. Con took the wheel going down the river to the marina and we were moving at quite a clip with the river current to our marina when Kris called out, "Hey Con, aren't those rocks a little close?" and a moment later keel hit with a loud bang and jolt as we scraped over rocks beside the marker. (Later when we lifted Big Sky we saw the big bite out of our keel.) It was necessary to enter Treguier at low tide otherwise the current was too strong but it makes for tricky navigation through shallows. We tied, checked the water temperature, 19.2 degrees. Con put on his snorkel (much to my protest) and went under the boat to try and have a look. Unfortunately, the low tide created murky waters making it too difficult to see the keel. Even at low tide, the current was strong! I insisted Con tie a rope around his waist. When we finally convinced him to come out, it took all my strength and Kris to haul him back aboard. The strong winds are expected to remain for a few days keeping us in the little historic town. Treguier's Cathedral dates back to 1339. St. Yves the patron saint of lawyers and defenders was buried there and his scull is on display. Duke Jean V had this chapel built in order to be buried next to St. Yves. The church is surrounded by wooden 15th - 17th century houses a few bakeries and a dozen hair salons, but try to find a grocery store or the internet for proper weather!
September 26, 2007 -- Weather Too Rough to Depart Winds were again blowing 30 knots with gusts up to 40. Ironically, Brit is our one daughter who does not enjoy sailing and has had the misfortune of having the worst weather conditions we've experienced. We rented a car again for land trips ending our sailing. We had visited Granville, St Malo, Paimpol, Lexardieux, and Treguier and so many small towns by car. While driving them to the airport I said to Kris. "It was."
"What Barb?"
"The worst conditions we'd ever had!"
"No," I lied. I looked out and couldn't tell where the ocean met the sky, both were the same charcoal colour. Rain pelted down in combination with the waves like shrapnel.
September 24 -- Hit a Rock! Kris had a good taste of the Atlantic Ocean (literally) driving us partway to Treguier in what continued to be nasty water. He was soaked. The conditions continued, 30 - 33 knot winds and massive-sized waves. Con took the wheel going down the river to the marina and we were moving at quite a clip with the river current to our marina when Kris called out, "Hey Con, aren't those rocks a little close?" and a moment later keel hit with a loud bang and jolt as we scraped over rocks beside the marker. (Later when we lifted Big Sky we saw the big bite out of our keel.) It was necessary to enter Treguier at low tide otherwise the current was too strong but it makes for tricky navigation through shallows. We tied, checked the water temperature, 19.2 degrees. Con put on his snorkel (much to my protest) and went under the boat to try and have a look. Unfortunately, the low tide created murky waters making it too difficult to see the keel. Even at low tide, the current was strong! I insisted Con tie a rope around his waist. When we finally convinced him to come out, it took all my strength and Kris to haul him back aboard. The strong winds are expected to remain for a few days keeping us in the little historic town. Treguier's Cathedral dates back to 1339. St. Yves the patron saint of lawyers and defenders was buried there and his scull is on display. Duke Jean V had this chapel built in order to be buried next to St. Yves. The church is surrounded by wooden 15th - 17th century houses a few bakeries and a dozen hair salons, but try to find a grocery store or the internet for proper weather!
September 26, 2007 -- Weather Too Rough to Depart Winds were again blowing 30 knots with gusts up to 40. Ironically, Brit is our one daughter who does not enjoy sailing and has had the misfortune of having the worst weather conditions we've experienced. We rented a car again for land trips ending our sailing. We had visited Granville, St Malo, Paimpol, Lexardieux, and Treguier and so many small towns by car. While driving them to the airport I said to Kris. "It was."
"What Barb?"
"The worst conditions we'd ever had!"
September 29, 2007 -- Brit & Kris depart; Geert Arrives and we Tackle the Bay of Biscay We drove by car to the Rennes train station at 3:30 am so Brit and Kris could depart at 6:10 am. On the way, we received a photo radar ticket. We put the seats back in the car and slept in front of the train station until 4:15 pm when Geert, Con's brother climbed off the TGV from Holland. Geert no sooner climbed aboard and we left Treguier's calm waters under sunshine skied for La Coruna, Spain anticipating a 60-75 hour trip across the Bay of Biscay.
October 1, 2007 a.m. -- Bay of Biscay The ocean deteriorated very soon after our sunny departure having left on the tail-end of a storm. Con studied the weather (which is good for three days in advance usually) and decided this would be the best time to depart. The boat responded to the waves knocking things around inside including the mattress on our bed, which came off so many times that I finally conceded and fell asleep on the couch with the mattress on top of me where it landed. Sea sickness was my middle name, barely able to make my shifts for throwing up. Geert suffered too. Only Con was handling the rough waters. Finally on our second day, the sea calmed. Geert made some dinner and took it outside to eat on his watch. That's when he spotted the second group of whales. What a sight! Geert called to me "Barb, see over there." I saw the rippled water became smooth and then the large grey whale surfaced humping it's back gently remaining there for a moment and then diving. We woke Con when just a few minutes later, on the other side of the boat, a number of them seemingly moving so slowly passed us. We've passed the half-way point, 37 hours under our belts and another 25 to go. The irony in our preparations was that we'd stocked the cupboards but nobody could eat. Accidentally during my night watch, I hit the Man Overboard button on the RADAR which is connected to the boats navigation systems. For the next 45 minutes to my total dismay, we'd been motoring in a circle. Con woke realizing the moon had been passing his window over and over again. The ocean rhythm changed to deep rolling swells and with them came the dolphins. They rerouted to our bow chirping, twirling, leaping. I sat on the bowsprit that overhangs the water and watched at the same time, I could see them watching me.
October 4, 2007 -- Courtney turned 24 today. We arrived in La Coruna in the dark. A few drunk Irish helped tie us on and when Con and Geert stepped down the bow latter to say, "Hi" I motored us back toward the pier. The guys were so drunk they didn't even know how to tie the line! the next morning, I woke to see all Geert's sheets and clothes strung everywhere topside. Apparently the vent had been left open when we left France soaking his bed and belongings. "Why didn't you move to the bunk room Geert?" I asked.
"It was no bother Barb."
Enjoying La Coruna, we figured we could stay for weeks, but needed to keep moving. Doug and Merrilee would be joining us next from Porto, Portugal. Next destination: Caminaras, Spain.
October 1, 2007 a.m. -- Bay of Biscay The ocean deteriorated very soon after our sunny departure having left on the tail-end of a storm. Con studied the weather (which is good for three days in advance usually) and decided this would be the best time to depart. The boat responded to the waves knocking things around inside including the mattress on our bed, which came off so many times that I finally conceded and fell asleep on the couch with the mattress on top of me where it landed. Sea sickness was my middle name, barely able to make my shifts for throwing up. Geert suffered too. Only Con was handling the rough waters. Finally on our second day, the sea calmed. Geert made some dinner and took it outside to eat on his watch. That's when he spotted the second group of whales. What a sight! Geert called to me "Barb, see over there." I saw the rippled water became smooth and then the large grey whale surfaced humping it's back gently remaining there for a moment and then diving. We woke Con when just a few minutes later, on the other side of the boat, a number of them seemingly moving so slowly passed us. We've passed the half-way point, 37 hours under our belts and another 25 to go. The irony in our preparations was that we'd stocked the cupboards but nobody could eat. Accidentally during my night watch, I hit the Man Overboard button on the RADAR which is connected to the boats navigation systems. For the next 45 minutes to my total dismay, we'd been motoring in a circle. Con woke realizing the moon had been passing his window over and over again. The ocean rhythm changed to deep rolling swells and with them came the dolphins. They rerouted to our bow chirping, twirling, leaping. I sat on the bowsprit that overhangs the water and watched at the same time, I could see them watching me.
October 4, 2007 -- Courtney turned 24 today. We arrived in La Coruna in the dark. A few drunk Irish helped tie us on and when Con and Geert stepped down the bow latter to say, "Hi" I motored us back toward the pier. The guys were so drunk they didn't even know how to tie the line! the next morning, I woke to see all Geert's sheets and clothes strung everywhere topside. Apparently the vent had been left open when we left France soaking his bed and belongings. "Why didn't you move to the bunk room Geert?" I asked.
"It was no bother Barb."
Enjoying La Coruna, we figured we could stay for weeks, but needed to keep moving. Doug and Merrilee would be joining us next from Porto, Portugal. Next destination: Caminaras, Spain.
October 5, 2007 - We'd crossed into a different culture. From baguettes to jamon and siestas. Dogs no longer have restaurant privledges. Caminaras is an attractive little fishing harbour with a few cafes and restaurants. We left the next day for Portosin where we'll make our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
October 6, 2007 -- Pilgrimage The three of us hitch hiked to Noia accepting a ride from a friendly local and then took a bus to Santiago de Compostela to tour the basilica where St James' tomb has rested since the 9th century. Thousands of tourists arrive by foot, bike, donkey, car, and bus from the ancient medieval route call the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. This basilica is next in Christian importance to Jerusalem and Rome and many were moved to tears upon reaching it. That afternoon, Geert and Con had a siesta -- in the park!
October 7, 2007 -- Dolphins! I think they waited for us just outside the marina because as soon as we left tthey rode at our bow. We motored to Vigo, Spain, docking on a public access pier. We took everything off the deck and stored it inside to discourage any would-be thieves and headed out for tapas.
October 8, 2007 -- Thanksgiving in Canada The three of us bummed around Vigo taking in the art, enjoying the people, and shopping for our Thanksgiving dinner. The jamon was leg was 431.57 euro.
October 9, 2007 -- Six Hours to Viana do Castelo, Portugal We entered the Minho region north of Porto known as Costa Verde (green coast). Grapes grow everywhere, vines hang from trees, porches, climb slopes and terraces, and can grow on poor rocky soil where nothing else flourishes. The Minhotos train their vines to grow upwards, onto the trees, houses and hedges to leave ground space for cabbages, onions and potatoes. We're arrived in Viana do Castelo during the grape harvest (Sept. and Oct.). In rural towns, you might find the old fashion festival dancing in the grapes with arms linked. People say it's the only way to crush the fruit without smashing the pips and spoiling the flavour of the wine. Today, most of it is done mechanically which ought to keep sweat out of the vats.
October 10, 2007 -- We were swarmed by flies Thousands of them landed all at once aboard. It was the oddest thing. I had to whish a towel at the companion-way door just to get inside, but hundreds still followed. And then, as soon as they arrived, they were gone -- all except the ones trapped inside. Next port: Porto
October 6, 2007 -- Pilgrimage The three of us hitch hiked to Noia accepting a ride from a friendly local and then took a bus to Santiago de Compostela to tour the basilica where St James' tomb has rested since the 9th century. Thousands of tourists arrive by foot, bike, donkey, car, and bus from the ancient medieval route call the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. This basilica is next in Christian importance to Jerusalem and Rome and many were moved to tears upon reaching it. That afternoon, Geert and Con had a siesta -- in the park!
October 7, 2007 -- Dolphins! I think they waited for us just outside the marina because as soon as we left tthey rode at our bow. We motored to Vigo, Spain, docking on a public access pier. We took everything off the deck and stored it inside to discourage any would-be thieves and headed out for tapas.
October 8, 2007 -- Thanksgiving in Canada The three of us bummed around Vigo taking in the art, enjoying the people, and shopping for our Thanksgiving dinner. The jamon was leg was 431.57 euro.
October 9, 2007 -- Six Hours to Viana do Castelo, Portugal We entered the Minho region north of Porto known as Costa Verde (green coast). Grapes grow everywhere, vines hang from trees, porches, climb slopes and terraces, and can grow on poor rocky soil where nothing else flourishes. The Minhotos train their vines to grow upwards, onto the trees, houses and hedges to leave ground space for cabbages, onions and potatoes. We're arrived in Viana do Castelo during the grape harvest (Sept. and Oct.). In rural towns, you might find the old fashion festival dancing in the grapes with arms linked. People say it's the only way to crush the fruit without smashing the pips and spoiling the flavour of the wine. Today, most of it is done mechanically which ought to keep sweat out of the vats.
October 10, 2007 -- We were swarmed by flies Thousands of them landed all at once aboard. It was the oddest thing. I had to whish a towel at the companion-way door just to get inside, but hundreds still followed. And then, as soon as they arrived, they were gone -- all except the ones trapped inside. Next port: Porto
October 12, 2007 -- Revolving Door Geert's taxi arrived and we hugged "good bye" and 30 minutes later another taxi arrived, and we hugged Doug and Merrilee "hello" making them our ninth and tenth visitors aboard. First task was to load up on fresh fruit, trout, wine, and snacks. Wine is good and cheap, 2 euros a bottle. The espresso coffee package .46 euro cents. Weather was warm and sunny when we left the marina Leixoes marina just north of Porto to explore the historic old town.
October 15, 2007 -- Lunch Becomes a Comedy Act Porto is built on a series of hills leading up and away from the river. The four of us explored on foot -- up the hills and back down the series of stairs. By afternoon starved and exhausted, we selected a table in the large square that appeared to be the busiest, since we believed that meant it had the best food. A frazzled woman eventually came to our table and we placed the order, somewhat miffed that she had gone to another table where the people had arrived after us. She assured us that the order would be dealt with in the right order. We thought that was brilliant and sat back to relax. After a long wait, we noticed that not one table had food. In fact, we noticed that when the lady came out of the kitchen with a tray of drinks angry people snatched them right off her tray, and in one instance knocked it over breaking the glasses. Doug and I went inside to see what was happening. Three women were reacting like ducks at a carnival where the patron shoots at them and they turn to go in the opposite direction. Further investigation, we saw a five-month old crying baby tied to a keg of beer under the hot fryer in her walker. Doug joined in to the chaos, reached through the lettuce grabbing the woman's hand to stop her and said, "Two beer; two sangria." She grabbed two dirty glasses, washed them by hand over the lettuce, filled them with pre-made sangria, and grabbed two beer. Con not believing what Doug and I described had to see for himself. I followed. He called over all the irate customers. "A plate of olives, bread, and cheese," please with himself as we left, guarding our treasure. Never getting our meals, Con stuffed some euro into the ladies pocket and told her to have a "better day."
The next morning, in a rental, we visited Guimaraes, the birthplace of Portugal, and Braga both attractive old towns. We toured the 10th century churches and castelo high on the mountain with magnificent views. Winding around the mountain roads to Citania de Briteiros to the remarkably well-preserved Celtic ruins in one of Portugal's most important archaeological sites. The prehistoric fortified village inhabited by Celts was discovered in 1874. We drove a bit further to Bom Jesus, the religious centre set high on a mountain, another popular pilgrimage known for its remarkable stairway flanked by chapels and statues. Near exhaustion, we drove on to Braga and bought a couple of delicious Piri Piri roasted chickens, fruit and veggies that we ate later aboard.
October 16, 2007 -- Swimming with the Rats After nine hours on the water, we arrived at Figueira da Foz. I told Doug and Merrilee to watch, and we'd take care of the docking. Con was making the turn into the slip; I opened the side rails and dragged the stern line; pulled; lost my balance and fell out into the 19 degree water! Con asked casually, "Was that Barb falling overboard?" as if I do that all the time.
"Tell her to swim away from the boat." Doug threw the life saver and I swam away attempting to get out but my clothes were too heavy and the pier too high. I watched Doug finish docking with Con. I used all my might to pull myself up, bruising my pride and my ribs. Merrilee kindly made me a cup of tea. Later we met up with a couple we'd met in La Coruna. They're from Mill Bay (across the water from my mom and dad's place in Brentwood Bay and crossed the Bay of Biscay the day before us and their sailboat was knocked down. The man asked, "Did you mind swimming with the rats?" He'd spotted a dead rat in the marina that afternoon.
October 17, 2007 --In Search of Crack Doug had researched the Casa do Paco, a building with walls covered with several thousand 18 century Delft Dutch tiles said to have been transported here from shipload destined elsewhere -- confiscated. The locals don't seem to know what a treasure they have. After lots of inquiries someone finally said, "Aw, follow me." We were lead into a school room where kids eat their lunch. The tiles were truly amazing, telling a story of the great travels of the explorers. e located them and they were amazing. This afternoon, we lazed at the beach.
October 19, 2007 -- To Nazare A spectacular town locked in time with breath-taking scenery. Local women still wear traditional garments from the 17th century. Widows all in black with head scarves, and younger women in colourful hooped patterned skirts to the knee, with a different patterned shirt, and head scarf. It's an understated town, with beautiful breathtaking scenery.
October 20, 2007 -- To Peniche The second most westerly point in Europe, population 18,000 people. Before arriving, we detoured to the island off Peniche, Ilha da Berlenga briefly, a protected bird sanctuary for a leisurely afternoon enjoying the sites. Other sights visited: Alcobaca, in the town of Batalha where a magnificent Cistercian Abbey with a foundation stone laid in 1148. In our car, we drove to Fatima, an interesting religious site standing on a desolate high-lying plateau where allegedly three peasant children sited the vision of the Virgin Mary in 1917. Since then, it's become a highly profitable tourist spot called the Lourdes of Portugal where thousands take the pilgrimage there. Two of the children died shortly after the sighting, and the third one died in 2003. They're buried in this basilica built in recognition of the importance of the site to pilgrims. In Tomar, we hiked up the long cobble-stoned medieval street to the Convento do Cristo. Tomar was the headquarters of the Knights Templar in Portugal, an order formed in 1119 during the crusades who gained incredible wealth. They left behind marvelous ruins of the old castle, church and cloisters.
October 22, 2007 -- 8.5 hours to Cascais The four of us ended the sailing portion of our time together in Cascais, just outside Lisbon. Taking the tram into the capital city, we toured the castle and old part of the fabulous town. Celebrating the end of our sailing part of the holiday in a quaint restaurant over a delicious dinner sitting outside under an avocado tree.
Below: Nazare, the coffin at Fatima, Con in Cascais.
October 15, 2007 -- Lunch Becomes a Comedy Act Porto is built on a series of hills leading up and away from the river. The four of us explored on foot -- up the hills and back down the series of stairs. By afternoon starved and exhausted, we selected a table in the large square that appeared to be the busiest, since we believed that meant it had the best food. A frazzled woman eventually came to our table and we placed the order, somewhat miffed that she had gone to another table where the people had arrived after us. She assured us that the order would be dealt with in the right order. We thought that was brilliant and sat back to relax. After a long wait, we noticed that not one table had food. In fact, we noticed that when the lady came out of the kitchen with a tray of drinks angry people snatched them right off her tray, and in one instance knocked it over breaking the glasses. Doug and I went inside to see what was happening. Three women were reacting like ducks at a carnival where the patron shoots at them and they turn to go in the opposite direction. Further investigation, we saw a five-month old crying baby tied to a keg of beer under the hot fryer in her walker. Doug joined in to the chaos, reached through the lettuce grabbing the woman's hand to stop her and said, "Two beer; two sangria." She grabbed two dirty glasses, washed them by hand over the lettuce, filled them with pre-made sangria, and grabbed two beer. Con not believing what Doug and I described had to see for himself. I followed. He called over all the irate customers. "A plate of olives, bread, and cheese," please with himself as we left, guarding our treasure. Never getting our meals, Con stuffed some euro into the ladies pocket and told her to have a "better day."
The next morning, in a rental, we visited Guimaraes, the birthplace of Portugal, and Braga both attractive old towns. We toured the 10th century churches and castelo high on the mountain with magnificent views. Winding around the mountain roads to Citania de Briteiros to the remarkably well-preserved Celtic ruins in one of Portugal's most important archaeological sites. The prehistoric fortified village inhabited by Celts was discovered in 1874. We drove a bit further to Bom Jesus, the religious centre set high on a mountain, another popular pilgrimage known for its remarkable stairway flanked by chapels and statues. Near exhaustion, we drove on to Braga and bought a couple of delicious Piri Piri roasted chickens, fruit and veggies that we ate later aboard.
October 16, 2007 -- Swimming with the Rats After nine hours on the water, we arrived at Figueira da Foz. I told Doug and Merrilee to watch, and we'd take care of the docking. Con was making the turn into the slip; I opened the side rails and dragged the stern line; pulled; lost my balance and fell out into the 19 degree water! Con asked casually, "Was that Barb falling overboard?" as if I do that all the time.
"Tell her to swim away from the boat." Doug threw the life saver and I swam away attempting to get out but my clothes were too heavy and the pier too high. I watched Doug finish docking with Con. I used all my might to pull myself up, bruising my pride and my ribs. Merrilee kindly made me a cup of tea. Later we met up with a couple we'd met in La Coruna. They're from Mill Bay (across the water from my mom and dad's place in Brentwood Bay and crossed the Bay of Biscay the day before us and their sailboat was knocked down. The man asked, "Did you mind swimming with the rats?" He'd spotted a dead rat in the marina that afternoon.
October 17, 2007 --In Search of Crack Doug had researched the Casa do Paco, a building with walls covered with several thousand 18 century Delft Dutch tiles said to have been transported here from shipload destined elsewhere -- confiscated. The locals don't seem to know what a treasure they have. After lots of inquiries someone finally said, "Aw, follow me." We were lead into a school room where kids eat their lunch. The tiles were truly amazing, telling a story of the great travels of the explorers. e located them and they were amazing. This afternoon, we lazed at the beach.
October 19, 2007 -- To Nazare A spectacular town locked in time with breath-taking scenery. Local women still wear traditional garments from the 17th century. Widows all in black with head scarves, and younger women in colourful hooped patterned skirts to the knee, with a different patterned shirt, and head scarf. It's an understated town, with beautiful breathtaking scenery.
October 20, 2007 -- To Peniche The second most westerly point in Europe, population 18,000 people. Before arriving, we detoured to the island off Peniche, Ilha da Berlenga briefly, a protected bird sanctuary for a leisurely afternoon enjoying the sites. Other sights visited: Alcobaca, in the town of Batalha where a magnificent Cistercian Abbey with a foundation stone laid in 1148. In our car, we drove to Fatima, an interesting religious site standing on a desolate high-lying plateau where allegedly three peasant children sited the vision of the Virgin Mary in 1917. Since then, it's become a highly profitable tourist spot called the Lourdes of Portugal where thousands take the pilgrimage there. Two of the children died shortly after the sighting, and the third one died in 2003. They're buried in this basilica built in recognition of the importance of the site to pilgrims. In Tomar, we hiked up the long cobble-stoned medieval street to the Convento do Cristo. Tomar was the headquarters of the Knights Templar in Portugal, an order formed in 1119 during the crusades who gained incredible wealth. They left behind marvelous ruins of the old castle, church and cloisters.
October 22, 2007 -- 8.5 hours to Cascais The four of us ended the sailing portion of our time together in Cascais, just outside Lisbon. Taking the tram into the capital city, we toured the castle and old part of the fabulous town. Celebrating the end of our sailing part of the holiday in a quaint restaurant over a delicious dinner sitting outside under an avocado tree.
Below: Nazare, the coffin at Fatima, Con in Cascais.
October 25, 2007-- To Lisbon by tram the electric tram brought us 29 km into Lisbon dropping us off at Praca do Comercio from the marina and our feet likely did twice that us up and down the steep streets, through the fado, districts, the crumbly old quarter of town where the music pulses from the buildings, and where tattoos and graffiti are epidemic. We toured the churches inside and out, admiring the post-earthquake architecture (1755) when the city shook causing a great fire that destroyed what was left. Followed the River Tagus to monuments and back. The next day, we toured Cascais, a beautiful coastal resort where Big Sky is docked. Cascais is the playground for Lisbon's wealthy commuters. The town's claim to fame is that in 1482 (10 years before Christopher Columbus), a Cascaisian named Afonso Sanches as the discoverer America. Columbus was a better marketer and received all the fame.
October 26, 2007 -- To Sintra By bus, we arrived in Sintra, the city known by the Romans as the Mountains of the Moon, now a national park with gorgeous palaces, castle, and monuments situated around an enchanted forest. The Palacio Nacional da Pena dominates the town from the top of the mountain overlooking the small town, built on the site of a 16th century monastery. We said out "good-bye's" to Doug and Merrilee as they headed back to Toronto.
October 28, 2007 -- Slept for 13 hours Doug and Merrilee left a few days ago, after two fantastic weeks together touring the Portuguese coast and spots inland. Since Brighton, we've literally had guests arriving and departing on the same days! Lindsey and Courtney; Brit and Kris; Geert; and Doug and Merrilee.
October 30, 2007 -- Back to Lisbon by Foot With all-day buss basses, we toured the old district and castle. Upon arrival in Cascais Customs and Immigration told us our Shengen time was us in a few days but that we could go to their offices and purchase an extension. The office was bursting with African's lining up for various things. Con and I were the only white people and stood out. An agent called us over, making us stand out even more, when everyone else was lining up. The man took our passports and disappeared for about 15 minutes. We weren't at all sure we'd see them again. He reappeared and said, "Okay, it's simple. First, come back with 1500 euro each just to show us, a copy of your return airline ticket (who has tickets anymore), along with our ships papers, photo copies of every page of our passports." We were flabbergasted.
We said, "No thanks."
He held our passports close to his chest, "What will you do then?"
Plucking them from his fingers, Con said, "Sail to Africa".
October 26, 2007 -- To Sintra By bus, we arrived in Sintra, the city known by the Romans as the Mountains of the Moon, now a national park with gorgeous palaces, castle, and monuments situated around an enchanted forest. The Palacio Nacional da Pena dominates the town from the top of the mountain overlooking the small town, built on the site of a 16th century monastery. We said out "good-bye's" to Doug and Merrilee as they headed back to Toronto.
October 28, 2007 -- Slept for 13 hours Doug and Merrilee left a few days ago, after two fantastic weeks together touring the Portuguese coast and spots inland. Since Brighton, we've literally had guests arriving and departing on the same days! Lindsey and Courtney; Brit and Kris; Geert; and Doug and Merrilee.
October 30, 2007 -- Back to Lisbon by Foot With all-day buss basses, we toured the old district and castle. Upon arrival in Cascais Customs and Immigration told us our Shengen time was us in a few days but that we could go to their offices and purchase an extension. The office was bursting with African's lining up for various things. Con and I were the only white people and stood out. An agent called us over, making us stand out even more, when everyone else was lining up. The man took our passports and disappeared for about 15 minutes. We weren't at all sure we'd see them again. He reappeared and said, "Okay, it's simple. First, come back with 1500 euro each just to show us, a copy of your return airline ticket (who has tickets anymore), along with our ships papers, photo copies of every page of our passports." We were flabbergasted.
We said, "No thanks."
He held our passports close to his chest, "What will you do then?"
Plucking them from his fingers, Con said, "Sail to Africa".
November 2, 2007 -- Trying to Motivate Beyond Lazy The Portuguese sun continues to shine, weather in the 20s, but still in our "lazy" mode, we motivated ourselves to tour north of Cascais (Estoril) by bike. A week later, we set off for Sines (pronounced cinch). Dozens maybe close to a hundred visited our bow, and right in front of us two were mating! We clearly heard their high-pitched squeaking even below the surface.
November 9, 2007 -- To Lagos Up at 3 am, we were on the water for our 12.5-hour trek to Lagos. Friends Bob and Di spotted us leaving and immediately untied and followed. We didn't know that Di carried anxiety about Portugal's "corner" and had comfort sailing near us. Almost as soon as we exited the marina we sped away arriving in Portugal's Algarve. Lagos is experiencing the warmest weather in Europe at the moment. It's 25 degrees by day. People are still swimming in the ocean.
November 14, 2007 -- We're Illegal Our time in Shengen has officially ended so we climbed aboard a bus to Portimao to attempt an extension again (not having sailed to Africa as we told the last agent). Once again, dozens of immigrants were all vying for their time slot in what appeared to be organized chaos. By days end, we had paid $120 Euro, plus another $10 Euro for photos and were told we were "legal". In 30 days we'd be leaving the country for Christmas with our family in Canada.
Our original plan was to sail to Portimao to leave Big Sky, but we fell in love with Lagos and asked each day if they had a spot for us for a few months. Finally after a week, they led us to a long-term berth. We biked to the Grotto still enjoying the summer-like weather. The 80 knot winds brought a change in the weather from sunshine to wild torrential down pours accompanied by lightning and thunder. We've learned Lagos Marina is nicknamed "Velcro Marina" because once you arrive you don't want to leave. We've met people who arrived for a day and remained 16 months, another seventeen years! We shared dinner and drinks with Bob and Di before they flew home to England for Christmas with their family. Now tucked in, we've been doing tasks. Con changed the oil, I cleaned the nooks and crannies.
November 27, 2007 Rental With our last days before flying home, we rented a car visiting Travira, where poinsettia plants grow year round. We passed a band of Gypsies in the process of relocating camp, and passed vendors selling bags of oranges. The latter we stopped for, in fact bought three bags. The second day, we drove to Silves, a beautiful city once populated in the 4th century BC by the Moors. The town is coloured the same as the earth: reds, pinks and burgundy's. The Romans occupied it for a bit, building bridges and cisterns, the Portuguese conquered it, then the Moors took it back a few years later and built a wall with a castle atop. The Portuguese eventually took it back from the Moors. The last day, we drove to Sagres, to the small fishing town o the south west corner of Portugal. The Fortalaza de Sagres (the fortress) can't be missed when sailing past, as it's situated high on a desolate rocky point about 200 or so feet above the ocean. Talk about extreme fishing! Men hanging over the cliffs told us it was "very dangerous, but not today. When it rains we lose people here every year."
Pink flamingos live nearby (especially in the river near Portimao). A big blue herons uses the boats for a good vantage point for night fishing. Storks nest across the marina on the top of a building. On December 2nd, Con was shirtless in the cockpit enjoying the Dutch Telegraaf and a delicious Pastel de Nata. We visited the huts near the Lagos yard where Fado and Bossa Nova music plays at night enjoying a Brazilian band. We faced the ocean as the sun set, drinking blanco sangrias. Blue waves that had traveled across the Atlantic and around "the corner" were meeting their end rolling white frothy curls up onto the miles of ivory coloured sand.I When the band began, people were literally bouncing in our chairs. December 9th, we tarped Big Sky and left on an overnight train to Madrid for our flight to Calgary.
Below: a few videos throughout the year.
November 9, 2007 -- To Lagos Up at 3 am, we were on the water for our 12.5-hour trek to Lagos. Friends Bob and Di spotted us leaving and immediately untied and followed. We didn't know that Di carried anxiety about Portugal's "corner" and had comfort sailing near us. Almost as soon as we exited the marina we sped away arriving in Portugal's Algarve. Lagos is experiencing the warmest weather in Europe at the moment. It's 25 degrees by day. People are still swimming in the ocean.
November 14, 2007 -- We're Illegal Our time in Shengen has officially ended so we climbed aboard a bus to Portimao to attempt an extension again (not having sailed to Africa as we told the last agent). Once again, dozens of immigrants were all vying for their time slot in what appeared to be organized chaos. By days end, we had paid $120 Euro, plus another $10 Euro for photos and were told we were "legal". In 30 days we'd be leaving the country for Christmas with our family in Canada.
Our original plan was to sail to Portimao to leave Big Sky, but we fell in love with Lagos and asked each day if they had a spot for us for a few months. Finally after a week, they led us to a long-term berth. We biked to the Grotto still enjoying the summer-like weather. The 80 knot winds brought a change in the weather from sunshine to wild torrential down pours accompanied by lightning and thunder. We've learned Lagos Marina is nicknamed "Velcro Marina" because once you arrive you don't want to leave. We've met people who arrived for a day and remained 16 months, another seventeen years! We shared dinner and drinks with Bob and Di before they flew home to England for Christmas with their family. Now tucked in, we've been doing tasks. Con changed the oil, I cleaned the nooks and crannies.
November 27, 2007 Rental With our last days before flying home, we rented a car visiting Travira, where poinsettia plants grow year round. We passed a band of Gypsies in the process of relocating camp, and passed vendors selling bags of oranges. The latter we stopped for, in fact bought three bags. The second day, we drove to Silves, a beautiful city once populated in the 4th century BC by the Moors. The town is coloured the same as the earth: reds, pinks and burgundy's. The Romans occupied it for a bit, building bridges and cisterns, the Portuguese conquered it, then the Moors took it back a few years later and built a wall with a castle atop. The Portuguese eventually took it back from the Moors. The last day, we drove to Sagres, to the small fishing town o the south west corner of Portugal. The Fortalaza de Sagres (the fortress) can't be missed when sailing past, as it's situated high on a desolate rocky point about 200 or so feet above the ocean. Talk about extreme fishing! Men hanging over the cliffs told us it was "very dangerous, but not today. When it rains we lose people here every year."
Pink flamingos live nearby (especially in the river near Portimao). A big blue herons uses the boats for a good vantage point for night fishing. Storks nest across the marina on the top of a building. On December 2nd, Con was shirtless in the cockpit enjoying the Dutch Telegraaf and a delicious Pastel de Nata. We visited the huts near the Lagos yard where Fado and Bossa Nova music plays at night enjoying a Brazilian band. We faced the ocean as the sun set, drinking blanco sangrias. Blue waves that had traveled across the Atlantic and around "the corner" were meeting their end rolling white frothy curls up onto the miles of ivory coloured sand.I When the band began, people were literally bouncing in our chairs. December 9th, we tarped Big Sky and left on an overnight train to Madrid for our flight to Calgary.
Below: a few videos throughout the year.
