July 2014
Eleven-Day Safari in Tanzania, Africa
Eleven-Day Safari in Tanzania, Africa
Our most stunningly beautiful trip opening our eyes to more of this beautiful world.
The Journey:
Raising an eyebrow, the Customs Agent in Amsterdam announced to Con as he passed him his passport, "You have three days left in Schengen." We knew that, but couldn't believe he could count with such proficiency. The Schengen Visa allows our stay in Europe for 90 days in 180. We nodded and directed him to the page we hoped he'd put the stamp to preserve precious pages for more travel.
Eight hours later, we touched down in Arusha, Tanzania, the starting point for our safari. Walter, from Galloping Safari collected us from the airport and drove us through the night to our hotel. It was too dark to view Mt. Kilimanjaro, but it was right there.
The Journey:
Raising an eyebrow, the Customs Agent in Amsterdam announced to Con as he passed him his passport, "You have three days left in Schengen." We knew that, but couldn't believe he could count with such proficiency. The Schengen Visa allows our stay in Europe for 90 days in 180. We nodded and directed him to the page we hoped he'd put the stamp to preserve precious pages for more travel.
Eight hours later, we touched down in Arusha, Tanzania, the starting point for our safari. Walter, from Galloping Safari collected us from the airport and drove us through the night to our hotel. It was too dark to view Mt. Kilimanjaro, but it was right there.
The next morning, Ayubu, our safari guide arrived in an open-roof land cruiser and our private tour began. First, as requested, Ayubu took us to a local private school where we donated a bag-full of pens, pencils, erasers, and a duffle bag full of toys, a camera, jacket, and beads I'd purchased in Vietnam last year. The kids were happy and eager to recite English to us, in return, we said a few Swahili words to them, creating lots of giggles. "Asante" thank you, "karibou" you're welcome, and "Hakuna Matata" no worries. Thanks to the Lion King for that one.
Stopping in town, Con wandered to the busy bus stop to take a few photos while I chatted with a few local men who swarmed me, eager for me to be their fiance. I showed them my wedding ring, they apologized. I said, "Hakuna Matata" creating rounds of laughter.
Day One
We headed out of the town, viewing the outskirts of the city. By day's end, Ayubu moved our suitcases to the front passenger side, which slipped hitting the fire extinguisher, releasing a thick while powder filling the land cruiser. The three of us scrambled out seeking fresh air and nearly falling into the lap of a curious local. She studied our situation, then decided we should view the wild crocs, a porcupine, a giant turtle, and a King Crown bird the size of a large turkey just across the road.
Stopping in town, Con wandered to the busy bus stop to take a few photos while I chatted with a few local men who swarmed me, eager for me to be their fiance. I showed them my wedding ring, they apologized. I said, "Hakuna Matata" creating rounds of laughter.
Day One
We headed out of the town, viewing the outskirts of the city. By day's end, Ayubu moved our suitcases to the front passenger side, which slipped hitting the fire extinguisher, releasing a thick while powder filling the land cruiser. The three of us scrambled out seeking fresh air and nearly falling into the lap of a curious local. She studied our situation, then decided we should view the wild crocs, a porcupine, a giant turtle, and a King Crown bird the size of a large turkey just across the road.
Day 2
It's winter in Tanzania and our arrival city Arusha is about 1500 meters above sea level. It gives us a cool morning, warming by noon. Our cabin was set in lush greenery, with Dik Dik's (mini dear-like animals -- an eagle's delicacy) running through the grass and through the dewy spider webs and they are healthy-sized spiders!
We drove to Tarangire National Park, passing women going to market with heavy green banana stems balancing easily on their heads. We tasted them later in a meat dish -- it was okay. Everything is Hakuna Matata and Poli Poli (no worries and go slow). Everything was Poli Poli except the local busses that is. The drivers butt up behind slow-moving trucks (two in one lane) jockeying to pass. Ayubu has a Hakuna Matata attitude.
It's winter in Tanzania and our arrival city Arusha is about 1500 meters above sea level. It gives us a cool morning, warming by noon. Our cabin was set in lush greenery, with Dik Dik's (mini dear-like animals -- an eagle's delicacy) running through the grass and through the dewy spider webs and they are healthy-sized spiders!
We drove to Tarangire National Park, passing women going to market with heavy green banana stems balancing easily on their heads. We tasted them later in a meat dish -- it was okay. Everything is Hakuna Matata and Poli Poli (no worries and go slow). Everything was Poli Poli except the local busses that is. The drivers butt up behind slow-moving trucks (two in one lane) jockeying to pass. Ayubu has a Hakuna Matata attitude.
We passed Maasai tribal people, boys tending cattle, women filling water at local watering holes. Men marry many wives and the wives do all the work. Once the boy marries his first wife, he lays back and enjoys the cattle her family granted him. He grows his stock by taking lots of wives and receiving cattle. Females are assigned to men by the age of seven, sometimes even before birth. By 13, she leaves her family to live with the first wife who teaches her everything. Modern Maasai live in houses, but traditional ones are nomatic, moving when the cattle need more grass. Tanzania passed a law that Maasai can marry outside their tribe, ending tribal wars.
Entering Tarangire National Park was on a dusty, bumpy pot-holed road, "African Massage" Ayubu joked was 2,850 square kilometers of magic. Just five minutes into the park, we stopped, stuck half of our bodies out of the open-roof vehicle, and waited for about 30 elephants to cross the road directly in front and behind us. As the day rolled on, we passed so many herds of zebras, many standing in their defensive style, neck to neck to appear larger and to confuse their predator. They're like donkey have a donkey, but with very weak backs, meant for quick turning. Not quick enough for one zebra we passed who had lost its tail, "likely a lion" Ayubu offered.
Entering Tarangire National Park was on a dusty, bumpy pot-holed road, "African Massage" Ayubu joked was 2,850 square kilometers of magic. Just five minutes into the park, we stopped, stuck half of our bodies out of the open-roof vehicle, and waited for about 30 elephants to cross the road directly in front and behind us. As the day rolled on, we passed so many herds of zebras, many standing in their defensive style, neck to neck to appear larger and to confuse their predator. They're like donkey have a donkey, but with very weak backs, meant for quick turning. Not quick enough for one zebra we passed who had lost its tail, "likely a lion" Ayubu offered.
Counting the numbers of animals and birds we saw on this first day would have been impossible: elephants, zebras, giraffes, impalas, gazelles, ostriches, wildebeests, and lions. No leopards or cheetahs yet.
We watched the female ostrich do a mating dance right in front of us. The male came running at a sprint from our right-hand side. He was so excited, his neck was pumped out, turning shades of pink. He knelt down to do a feather dance just for her. She watches non pulsed. He got up, still fanning, then she took off. Playing hard to get, I guess.
By 5 pm we entered the tented camp, our hotel for the next two days. They ARE tents, but oh so luxurious. About 600 square meters with a deck and outdoor shower. The tent was made of canvass with large six-foot screens all around so the outside was inside without lions and bugs. There's electricity, but no WiFi. There was an inside shower too, inside toilet, and a beautifully comfortable king-size bed. It's the epitome of peace, with the sound of song birds all around... and roaring lions by 5 am.
The sand path was lit by lanterns each night and at 6:30 pm, rifle-carrying guards led us to the open communal eating area for gourmet food, cocktails, "bush TV" -- a campfire. The dining area was a stunningly beautiful, large straw-covered open hut. We could charge our laptops and camera batteries while telling "safari" stories. We were told NOT leave our tent after sun down without an escort. Last year, a tourist was attacked and eaten by a lion on the path. We slept like baby hippos (they sleep soundly).
We watched the female ostrich do a mating dance right in front of us. The male came running at a sprint from our right-hand side. He was so excited, his neck was pumped out, turning shades of pink. He knelt down to do a feather dance just for her. She watches non pulsed. He got up, still fanning, then she took off. Playing hard to get, I guess.
By 5 pm we entered the tented camp, our hotel for the next two days. They ARE tents, but oh so luxurious. About 600 square meters with a deck and outdoor shower. The tent was made of canvass with large six-foot screens all around so the outside was inside without lions and bugs. There's electricity, but no WiFi. There was an inside shower too, inside toilet, and a beautifully comfortable king-size bed. It's the epitome of peace, with the sound of song birds all around... and roaring lions by 5 am.
The sand path was lit by lanterns each night and at 6:30 pm, rifle-carrying guards led us to the open communal eating area for gourmet food, cocktails, "bush TV" -- a campfire. The dining area was a stunningly beautiful, large straw-covered open hut. We could charge our laptops and camera batteries while telling "safari" stories. We were told NOT leave our tent after sun down without an escort. Last year, a tourist was attacked and eaten by a lion on the path. We slept like baby hippos (they sleep soundly).
Elephants, hunters and poachers
We came across elephants, the matriarch, the oldest female, crossed the road ahead of us heading to the swamp a few kilometers away. The rest follow her. We waited for them to pass.
Elephants raise their foot to use their nails to warn others of wind and even gun powder. If they are in distress or warning trouble, they tramp and raise their trunks. This area was once a gaming area for the British hunters prior to 1961. Once Tanzania became independent they protected these magnificent creatures. The rhino is extinct in this area mostly because of poachers. They are being reintroduced in the Serengeti, which we'll visit in a few days. Poaching is still big (illegal) business and we have to be out of the park before sun down so the rangers don't mistake us for poachers and they shoot to kill.
We came across elephants, the matriarch, the oldest female, crossed the road ahead of us heading to the swamp a few kilometers away. The rest follow her. We waited for them to pass.
Elephants raise their foot to use their nails to warn others of wind and even gun powder. If they are in distress or warning trouble, they tramp and raise their trunks. This area was once a gaming area for the British hunters prior to 1961. Once Tanzania became independent they protected these magnificent creatures. The rhino is extinct in this area mostly because of poachers. They are being reintroduced in the Serengeti, which we'll visit in a few days. Poaching is still big (illegal) business and we have to be out of the park before sun down so the rangers don't mistake us for poachers and they shoot to kill.
Day 3
At 5:30 am we heard a gentle voice, "Jumbo" (good morning). I slipped on my housecoat and opened the tent door. Our wake-up call arrived in the form of a tray of delicious coffee and two freshly baked butter cookies. Thirty minutes later, a guard arrived with a flash light and rifle escorting us the few hundred meters to Ayubu who was waiting beside the cleaned cruiser, with a breakfast picnic packed. "Listen, lions," he said. Loud roars filled the serenely quiet morning coming from just over the rise. The birds and animals respect the lions and when they roar, they don't make a sound. Filled with expectation for the adventure, we were not disappointed. The sun spread an enormous pink glow across half the African sky as it rose, lighting up the golden grasses. We quietly drove down the red-dirt road. Large Acacia canopy trees dotted the landscape taking our breath away. The animals were rising. Zebras, impalas, buffalo, and wart hogs. A long jackal (small fox-like animal) ran ahead of us for a few kilometers, continually checking us over his shoulder. A bat-eared fox sprinted in front of us and then stopped, turned to check us out, posed, then ran off. Large termite hills were plentiful, some small mounds the size of over-sized exercise balls and some two and three meters tall with a stove top where they'd devoured a tree. Inside each mound lives a large queen termite who mothers thousands of termites every single day and lives for twenty years. Birds, birds, and more birds. Love Birds, Red and Yellow Barbers, long billed, short beaked, long legged, fat and awkward, brilliant blue, green, rainbow coloured, spotted, red headed, red billed... Vultures, buzzard, each with distinctive flights and different purposes to keep the delicate balance of the eco system.
At 5:30 am we heard a gentle voice, "Jumbo" (good morning). I slipped on my housecoat and opened the tent door. Our wake-up call arrived in the form of a tray of delicious coffee and two freshly baked butter cookies. Thirty minutes later, a guard arrived with a flash light and rifle escorting us the few hundred meters to Ayubu who was waiting beside the cleaned cruiser, with a breakfast picnic packed. "Listen, lions," he said. Loud roars filled the serenely quiet morning coming from just over the rise. The birds and animals respect the lions and when they roar, they don't make a sound. Filled with expectation for the adventure, we were not disappointed. The sun spread an enormous pink glow across half the African sky as it rose, lighting up the golden grasses. We quietly drove down the red-dirt road. Large Acacia canopy trees dotted the landscape taking our breath away. The animals were rising. Zebras, impalas, buffalo, and wart hogs. A long jackal (small fox-like animal) ran ahead of us for a few kilometers, continually checking us over his shoulder. A bat-eared fox sprinted in front of us and then stopped, turned to check us out, posed, then ran off. Large termite hills were plentiful, some small mounds the size of over-sized exercise balls and some two and three meters tall with a stove top where they'd devoured a tree. Inside each mound lives a large queen termite who mothers thousands of termites every single day and lives for twenty years. Birds, birds, and more birds. Love Birds, Red and Yellow Barbers, long billed, short beaked, long legged, fat and awkward, brilliant blue, green, rainbow coloured, spotted, red headed, red billed... Vultures, buzzard, each with distinctive flights and different purposes to keep the delicate balance of the eco system.
Ayubu drove while popping his head in and out of the vehicle checking tracks in the gold powder dirt. He stopped to study a bit closer, "Hyena tracks." He carried on adding, "leopard tracks" and finally announced, "lions nearby". Silently and slowly we drove about 100 meters further and witnessed a scene far more than we could have imagined. Four cubs and two mothers were feasting on a wildebeest kill made just hours before in the night. One cub was curious about us and moved closer. The mother didn't like us watching and dragged the kill behind a clump and out of our sight. One cub protested the move and tugged back, jumping on the mom in playful protest.
Enormous water buffalo, a cantankerous bunch, stopped in their path toward the marshy waters a kilometer away on the other side of where we were. They stopped. We stopped and watched them watch us. They then gathered in one line, still watching us closely, snorting and getting more agitated, but not as much as the birds whose eggs were in ground nests at their feet. The birds flew straight up to warn the buffalo where their eggs were, and the heavy beasts politely moved around the eggs.
There are so many partnerships where large animals rely on smaller ones. The buffalo kicks up bugs the birds enjoy and in return they sit on the buffalo's backs to eat the ticks and flies off.
There are so many partnerships where large animals rely on smaller ones. The buffalo kicks up bugs the birds enjoy and in return they sit on the buffalo's backs to eat the ticks and flies off.
Half an hour later, a beautiful female giraffe appeared beside us, currently, my favourite animal. We looked over our other shoulder to see another giraffe, standing with two new borns, less than a week old. Ayubu pointed out the umbilical cords, still attached, stating, "They'll lose them within a week of birth." Both had given birth just days apart.
Next Day
Again, we slept like baby hippos (soundly) in our luxurious tent on a plateau overlooking the incredibly gorgeous African plains. Up at 6:30, breakfast was delicious, served on the outdoor patio, 200 meters in front of us, a female elephant led her baby through the bush, slowly toward us.
Elephants eat grasses and trees, 24 hours a day. Their favourite tree is the Boabab, an upside down tree. They love the bark and fortunately, the tree doesn't die, even when eaten right through it. Mother Nature knows how to build stuff right.
The armed guards walked us to the vehicle and sent us off with smiles. We heard the lions again. The guards shared how sad it was to put the lion down after it attacked the tourist, because "the young lion now had a taste for humans." Apparently, we're pretty tasty -- salty.
We followed the lion tracks again, a female and her cubs. Around us, vultures sat high in the trees. "There's no smell," Ayubu shared, "so they've devoured the prey." Hyena tracks were nearby too. We haven't spotted them yet, but with confidence, Ayubu said: "We will."
Again, we slept like baby hippos (soundly) in our luxurious tent on a plateau overlooking the incredibly gorgeous African plains. Up at 6:30, breakfast was delicious, served on the outdoor patio, 200 meters in front of us, a female elephant led her baby through the bush, slowly toward us.
Elephants eat grasses and trees, 24 hours a day. Their favourite tree is the Boabab, an upside down tree. They love the bark and fortunately, the tree doesn't die, even when eaten right through it. Mother Nature knows how to build stuff right.
The armed guards walked us to the vehicle and sent us off with smiles. We heard the lions again. The guards shared how sad it was to put the lion down after it attacked the tourist, because "the young lion now had a taste for humans." Apparently, we're pretty tasty -- salty.
We followed the lion tracks again, a female and her cubs. Around us, vultures sat high in the trees. "There's no smell," Ayubu shared, "so they've devoured the prey." Hyena tracks were nearby too. We haven't spotted them yet, but with confidence, Ayubu said: "We will."
We were in search of a leopard, a rare find. Ayubu watched for signs in the birds and other animals for clues. The leopard is a lone hunter who does not share their kill and will drag it up a tree to hold. We checked trees, all the while snapping pictures and travelling deeper into the tall grasses. Roads were disappearing and I pondered what we'd do if the cruiser broke down or got stuck despite being built like a tank, anything could happen with the rocky plains and deep holes. We spotted vultures. Standing in the vehicle, heads and partial bodies outside, we could smell the kill. "It's near," Ayubu said. AND, we were practically on it, a giraffe, killed maybe two days ago. First the lions ate, then vultures followed.
Ever had a bird poop on your head, I have. God help you if an ostrich was to poop on your head. It pooped in front of the cruiser and it flowed like a river. Further ahead, two male gazelles were fighting, locking horns and really going at it. As we were near, they both stopped to look at us for a moment, then carried on with their fight. They are practicing for their next chance to have their herd of females. The loser goes into the separate male group and this sort of fighting goes on until they're good enough to try for the herd again.
Leaving Tanangire National Park heading to Lake Manyara Nationnal Park, we spotted cheetahs. Much smaller than I thought. Two lazed under a tree, 300 meters from us finishing up their kill. Four zebras walked over tentatively, ears forward, one at a time to take a peek; They are known for their curiosity.
Ayubu, familiar with the area (no road ways or signs) decided we should take a short cut through small villages rather than going all the way around the lake. The short cut took us through shallow rivers, over rickety plank bridges, up a steep sandy bank where we nearly got stuck, and then onto gravely, sandy roads. The sand we crossed becomes quicksand during the rain season or the "green" season as they call it.
Mini villages appeared along the way, and young kids hearing our vehicle sprinted to the trail, waving. "The parents tell them to beg," Ayubu said, adding, "don't do it, it's not good."
Between villages, there wasn't a human soul in sight, nor animals. We rounded a bend and Ayubu slammed on the breaks, skidding to a stop, dust encircled our vehicle. One foot from our bumper was an enormous elephant rump! Who was more surprised? Us or the elephant? He jumped around 180 degrees staring into our front window at Ayubu and continued chewing, all the while displaying his authority. He gave a loud perturbed exhale, then jumped again sideways trying to intimidate us. He did. I held my breath. He waved his trunk side to side nearly taking Con's camera. Our windows were down and Con filmed the whole encounter.
This carried on for about a minute, neither the elephant nor our vehicle moving. The three of us remaining still and quiet. Ayubu accelerated the cruiser forward slightly, but the majestic creature was blocking the roadway and with thick bush covering each side of the trail, we were jammed. The elephant lunged at us, Ayubu swerved left barely avoiding contact. The giant then turned and walked slowly up the trail in front turning once to see if we followed. We were. He stepped aside allowing us to pass.
Between villages, there wasn't a human soul in sight, nor animals. We rounded a bend and Ayubu slammed on the breaks, skidding to a stop, dust encircled our vehicle. One foot from our bumper was an enormous elephant rump! Who was more surprised? Us or the elephant? He jumped around 180 degrees staring into our front window at Ayubu and continued chewing, all the while displaying his authority. He gave a loud perturbed exhale, then jumped again sideways trying to intimidate us. He did. I held my breath. He waved his trunk side to side nearly taking Con's camera. Our windows were down and Con filmed the whole encounter.
This carried on for about a minute, neither the elephant nor our vehicle moving. The three of us remaining still and quiet. Ayubu accelerated the cruiser forward slightly, but the majestic creature was blocking the roadway and with thick bush covering each side of the trail, we were jammed. The elephant lunged at us, Ayubu swerved left barely avoiding contact. The giant then turned and walked slowly up the trail in front turning once to see if we followed. We were. He stepped aside allowing us to pass.
Listening to African music, we drove further. Great flocks filled the sky. Ayubu stopped on a narrow gravel path, again, high bush framed us on either side. We listened, as elephants can trample through without warning. Within a few seconds, we were pilfered from above with small tree branches. Looking up, about a dozen baboons were looking down at us, small branches in their hands. It was Ayubu's joke for us.
Climbing higher to the lake, for a bird's eye view, we saw pink, as far as the eye to see. Flamingos. They eat the algae which turns their feathers pink. There are only a few places in the world where they flock, Tanzania and another is in Portugal. Here, there were millions and millions of them. Further down the dry gravel closer to the lake, we saw two hippopotamus under water, just their backs and ears showing. The hippo sweats pink, a sun screen to protect their delicate skin. There were yellow-billed storks, saddle-billed storks, and the third largest bird in the world, the Marabou stork. Thousands of them. Not another person in sight. Many fanned out their long wings to sun them. It seems a perfect place for our pre-packed picnic lunch. We ate off the hood of the car, not moving too far from the doors, as we didn't know what creatures may be watching us for their picnic. Giraffe's separated us from the water, a group of wildebeests ran by near the lake. After lunch, we got back in the vehicle, drove up the sandy bank after a few running tries at it, and then saw a few dozen baboons. They had been quietly watching us. We drove on to another village high on a plateau to a beautiful hotel with a balcony that stretched across the valley.
Next Day
We were on the hunt for cheetahs and leopards. African music filled the car, with a little Celine Dion "In case we were home sick for a Canadian artist" Ayubu said. We headed from south Serengeti, 2300 feet skirting the top of the crater where the stunning drops sandwiched us on either side. We entered the Noorongoro. Bush was thicker, more jungle, and a cloudy mist covered the pass. When it cleared from time to time we saw the jaw-dropping depths below. We were now suspended over the jungle canopy on a narrow road way. Driving on dusty paths, sometimes making our own paths.
"No, I won't get lost," Ayubu boasted, "it's my fingerprint out here. I don't need a GPS."
We were on the hunt for cheetahs and leopards. African music filled the car, with a little Celine Dion "In case we were home sick for a Canadian artist" Ayubu said. We headed from south Serengeti, 2300 feet skirting the top of the crater where the stunning drops sandwiched us on either side. We entered the Noorongoro. Bush was thicker, more jungle, and a cloudy mist covered the pass. When it cleared from time to time we saw the jaw-dropping depths below. We were now suspended over the jungle canopy on a narrow road way. Driving on dusty paths, sometimes making our own paths.
"No, I won't get lost," Ayubu boasted, "it's my fingerprint out here. I don't need a GPS."
The terrain changed again with a few trees here and there, but mostly low grasses. Ostriches ran passed, plenty of impalas and gazelles, lots of fantastic birds (song birds and birds of prey) in all shapes, colours, and sizes.
We entered the cattle grazing lands of the Maasai, a nomadic group of people dressed in brilliant reds, blues, with many beaded necklaces, weighted earrings on both men and women which stretched their ears to their shoulders. No pictures. They don't like that, so we just wave. Many signaled for a ride, and we were curious enough to want to accept but Ayubu warned, "No! Never do that." We never knew why.
We entered the cattle grazing lands of the Maasai, a nomadic group of people dressed in brilliant reds, blues, with many beaded necklaces, weighted earrings on both men and women which stretched their ears to their shoulders. No pictures. They don't like that, so we just wave. Many signaled for a ride, and we were curious enough to want to accept but Ayubu warned, "No! Never do that." We never knew why.
Maasai always carry a spear in one hand and will throw it at the neck of a lion if they have to for protection. They are the only people allowed to remain in the protected parks because they don't hunt the precious wild animals. Four other tribes were kicked out because they were expert hunters, using their bows and arrows and killing the lions. The Maasai promise not to hunt. They are not allowed to live in the Serengeti as the animals are not to be threatened. The greatest threat to the animals, however, are the poachers. They burn the Serengeti to get to the animals for their ivory (elephant and rhino horns). Poachers are mostly Indian and Arabic. When spotted or captured, they are shot by the hired rangers.
After a full day of checking bushes and trees, we were rewarded, we saw a cheetah and her cubs. "Don't open your door," Ayubu warned (as if we would), "they'll be on you before you can blink."
The Leopard
Moving further away, we enjoyed our picnic lunch beside the vehicle again. Further along the Serengeti, we found the rarest of all, the leopard. We crossed a shallow river, up an embankment, and there laying on a branch, full belly, leg and tail flopped over was a gorgeous male leopard. He was exquisite, beauty beyond imagination, and his liquid green eyes locked on mine. Generally they move away quickly, but he remained lazily watching us.
Today had been a full 12-hour safari and arriving at another luxurious tent was a joy. It had a flush toilet, shower, and internet. We were filthy, red dirt powder under my nails and in every pore. I loved it! We fell asleep listening to roaring lions. The male was rounding up his pride.
After a full day of checking bushes and trees, we were rewarded, we saw a cheetah and her cubs. "Don't open your door," Ayubu warned (as if we would), "they'll be on you before you can blink."
The Leopard
Moving further away, we enjoyed our picnic lunch beside the vehicle again. Further along the Serengeti, we found the rarest of all, the leopard. We crossed a shallow river, up an embankment, and there laying on a branch, full belly, leg and tail flopped over was a gorgeous male leopard. He was exquisite, beauty beyond imagination, and his liquid green eyes locked on mine. Generally they move away quickly, but he remained lazily watching us.
Today had been a full 12-hour safari and arriving at another luxurious tent was a joy. It had a flush toilet, shower, and internet. We were filthy, red dirt powder under my nails and in every pore. I loved it! We fell asleep listening to roaring lions. The male was rounding up his pride.
The three of us began our hunt under the early morning hot Serengeti sun looking for anything to shoot with our camera. First, another beautiful enormous giraffe stepped in front of our vehicle heading for the ditch of water to our left. She gracefully bent her front left knee shooting her foot forward enough for her long neck to reach the water.
A baboon was eating bugs off an Acacia tree. Ayubu said people collect and boil those bugs to make soup to heal diarrhea.
We visited a Maasai village and learned that a doctor from Arusha was being flown in by small aircraft to give pregnant women drugs to ensure her child does not contract her HIV or AIDS.
Turning off a road, overlooking a river, quite out of nowhere, hippos were everywhere. Definitely not a place to go for a walk. Hippos stay in the water to protect their skin from the sun, secreting a red colour that acts as a sun screen. They come out to dry in order to kill the algae that collects on them and can make them very sick. A couple of hippos were mating in the water.
Further along, we spotted the Hammerkop bird standing on a rock. This bird builds the most exotic and elaborate nest in the world, four levels and a door. It's an upside down affair where they enter through an opening and closing mud door at the bottom, the next layer is where the birds mate, the next layer they store their food, the next for the babies, and the last layer is where the eggs reside. Snakes cannot get to the babies or eggs.
A baboon was eating bugs off an Acacia tree. Ayubu said people collect and boil those bugs to make soup to heal diarrhea.
We visited a Maasai village and learned that a doctor from Arusha was being flown in by small aircraft to give pregnant women drugs to ensure her child does not contract her HIV or AIDS.
Turning off a road, overlooking a river, quite out of nowhere, hippos were everywhere. Definitely not a place to go for a walk. Hippos stay in the water to protect their skin from the sun, secreting a red colour that acts as a sun screen. They come out to dry in order to kill the algae that collects on them and can make them very sick. A couple of hippos were mating in the water.
Further along, we spotted the Hammerkop bird standing on a rock. This bird builds the most exotic and elaborate nest in the world, four levels and a door. It's an upside down affair where they enter through an opening and closing mud door at the bottom, the next layer is where the birds mate, the next layer they store their food, the next for the babies, and the last layer is where the eggs reside. Snakes cannot get to the babies or eggs.
Our sensors were on high alert, this was cat territory. We spotted the female stalking a wart hog, crouching low in the grasses all the while the male lion watched. The male lion eats first, followed by the female and then the cubs. With the hot midday sun, the lioness was too hot to give chase. The wart hog carried on across the plains for another day. The male lion took his eyes off the female only long enough to take a look at us (standing in the open roofed vehicle). The male will lead the pride for two to three years until a stronger male displaces him and he must leave. Their life span is only about 15 years.
Lions Mating
While making a turn in the tall grass, we spotted another male lion laying patiently. The female, in heat, lay quietly nearby. Just two or three meters from them both, we watched the male approach her every 20 minutes hoping to mate. He approached her three times that we watched, and once she accepted him, twice she snarled at him ready to fight.
We were introduced to the Serengeti's Poison Milk Cactus Trees, respected by all because one drop in your eye will blind you.
Lions Mating
While making a turn in the tall grass, we spotted another male lion laying patiently. The female, in heat, lay quietly nearby. Just two or three meters from them both, we watched the male approach her every 20 minutes hoping to mate. He approached her three times that we watched, and once she accepted him, twice she snarled at him ready to fight.
We were introduced to the Serengeti's Poison Milk Cactus Trees, respected by all because one drop in your eye will blind you.
No blinking, or you'll miss the action. The wildebeests follow the zebras as they're not too swift and forget where they're running to. Zebras have a good memory and remember seasonally where they are to go. They use their unique stripes to confuse predators, crossing necks in their stand. No two are alike, like fingerprints.
Further along, the giant buffalo caught our attention standing with a group of ageing males. Four were lazing in the shade of a tree and one stood guard watching the male lion. More lions lay nearby in the shade of a tree. Both the lion and the herd knew of each other's presence. The large buffalo stretched his neck broadly toward the lion with an obvious message stating, don't mess with us.
On our return to our tent, Ayubu stopped, having spotted a female leopard. She stood guard over the gazelle she'd killed earlier and hung in the tree to eat later.
Further along, the giant buffalo caught our attention standing with a group of ageing males. Four were lazing in the shade of a tree and one stood guard watching the male lion. More lions lay nearby in the shade of a tree. Both the lion and the herd knew of each other's presence. The large buffalo stretched his neck broadly toward the lion with an obvious message stating, don't mess with us.
On our return to our tent, Ayubu stopped, having spotted a female leopard. She stood guard over the gazelle she'd killed earlier and hung in the tree to eat later.
Early the next day, we set off to the northern Serengeti in search of the Wildebeest migration. They are running this time of year, crossing the Mara River, a treacherous place for man or beast as it's filled with hippopotamus and crocodiles, buzzards, and vultures. The wildebeests cross two times a year in search of better feeding grounds. It's the greatest opportunity for the rest of the beasts to feast. They aren't particularly where they cross but they do it, or attempt to do it. The hungry wait in the river or on the rocks like the vultures and buzzards. A large group of wildebeests were getting worked up, ready to cross. As we neared, what appeared to be rocks in the water, we saw that they were actually dead wildebeests that didn't make it. The birds of prey were feasting. Further up the river, enormous crocodiles appeared to be filled to the brim on wildebeests. Hippos feed on the grasses and don't bother with the wildebeests, but don't ever get in their way. They're ornery critters and respected by the tour guides. We waited ten minutes and finally the first of the large group dipped its hoof in the water a few times, retreating and then trying again. Suddenly, the whole group entered the river making loud noises like music singing out their messages. Some made it across, others were too small and were carried down the river to the vultures. A Marabou Stork was feasting heartily with his neck fully up the wildebeest's anus.
Further along, we stopped for lunch. Ayubu called us over where an enormous ostrich egg was laying on the grasses. It wasn't fertilized, so safe to handle and man was it heavy.
We visited a Maasai Village for a glimpse into the ancient tribal rituals of the semi-nomadic, primitive lifestyle. They are spread over a few African countries, 200+ tribes in Tanzania are allowed to live so close to the game preserves. They farm and graze cattle in the desert, like no other people on earth. They exist because of the cow. Women milk the cows every morning, getting two litres per cow (a North American cows produce 22 litres per day). They mix blood into their milk and drink it believing it's good for the young children. They live a polygamist life, marrying more than one wife. A man received 10 cows, 3 goats, 2 sheep for instance as a dowry for a female. The larger the man's cattle stock, the greater influence he has over the village. A shilling for the cow could make their lives a lot more comfortable, but the influence and ego having a large stock supersedes. They live in huts made of cow dung which can be dismantled when the cows need to move to greener pastures. A man usually takes four wives, and up to ten. He spends one night with each wife on rotation. The children sleep with their moms. We were invited into a hut and saw how the man sleeps on the cot to the right of the fire and the woman with children on the left. Once the kids reach 8, they sleep together in a separate hut. There's no ventilation, no windows and the smoky fire was so difficult (for us) to breathe and harsh for our eyes and we were in there for less than 30 minutes. At 17, a boy becomes a man by circumcision and a decade ago, he was to go slay a lion. Today that's not allowed. Instead, he must go live off the land for a month, come home and slaughter a cow.
We visited a Maasai Village for a glimpse into the ancient tribal rituals of the semi-nomadic, primitive lifestyle. They are spread over a few African countries, 200+ tribes in Tanzania are allowed to live so close to the game preserves. They farm and graze cattle in the desert, like no other people on earth. They exist because of the cow. Women milk the cows every morning, getting two litres per cow (a North American cows produce 22 litres per day). They mix blood into their milk and drink it believing it's good for the young children. They live a polygamist life, marrying more than one wife. A man received 10 cows, 3 goats, 2 sheep for instance as a dowry for a female. The larger the man's cattle stock, the greater influence he has over the village. A shilling for the cow could make their lives a lot more comfortable, but the influence and ego having a large stock supersedes. They live in huts made of cow dung which can be dismantled when the cows need to move to greener pastures. A man usually takes four wives, and up to ten. He spends one night with each wife on rotation. The children sleep with their moms. We were invited into a hut and saw how the man sleeps on the cot to the right of the fire and the woman with children on the left. Once the kids reach 8, they sleep together in a separate hut. There's no ventilation, no windows and the smoky fire was so difficult (for us) to breathe and harsh for our eyes and we were in there for less than 30 minutes. At 17, a boy becomes a man by circumcision and a decade ago, he was to go slay a lion. Today that's not allowed. Instead, he must go live off the land for a month, come home and slaughter a cow.
For US$50 we were shown a Maasai dance and asked to participate... not our thing. We were led into the sacred grounds, the coral, thick with cow dung, watched, clapped, and laughed with them.
The cows had been ushered out for the dancing, and the boys who reach 10 are to care for them. The Maasai dancers came into the coral singing and chanting primitive sounds while forming a circle and the men began jumping higher and higher, one at a time. After the event, we were led to the field where the Maasai women had their bead work laid out on blankets for us to purchase. I thanked them, "Asante San ta" and we went back to our tent, a beautiful accommodation with flush toilets, four-claw-foot tub, king-size bed covered in mosquito covering, and electricity most of the time. The grounds were patrolled by armed guards day and night, protecting the camp from lions. Any time we left our tent after sun down or before sun rise, one or two armed guards led.
In the Maasai village, there are no bathrooms, no outhouses, sanitation is done in the trees and they wash in the streams when there is water. It's the same place where they drink along with the cows and goats. The elder men make all decisions, work with the government, specifically about access to the protected parks. They cannot graze their cattle in the protected parks and they cannot kill lions.
The cows had been ushered out for the dancing, and the boys who reach 10 are to care for them. The Maasai dancers came into the coral singing and chanting primitive sounds while forming a circle and the men began jumping higher and higher, one at a time. After the event, we were led to the field where the Maasai women had their bead work laid out on blankets for us to purchase. I thanked them, "Asante San ta" and we went back to our tent, a beautiful accommodation with flush toilets, four-claw-foot tub, king-size bed covered in mosquito covering, and electricity most of the time. The grounds were patrolled by armed guards day and night, protecting the camp from lions. Any time we left our tent after sun down or before sun rise, one or two armed guards led.
In the Maasai village, there are no bathrooms, no outhouses, sanitation is done in the trees and they wash in the streams when there is water. It's the same place where they drink along with the cows and goats. The elder men make all decisions, work with the government, specifically about access to the protected parks. They cannot graze their cattle in the protected parks and they cannot kill lions.
Con participated in a Night Game Drive seeing a small tree monkey, a mongoose, and that's about it. However, he never knew who/what saw them. He was bitten on his belly by an insect that caused days of swelling.
Rare opportunity to see lions mating
Early the next morning, we took a short cut near the Kenyan border back to the crater, an eight-hour drive over harsh, rough terrain that seemed like it could double as the surface of the moon. The other route would have been hours longer, back through the Serengeti. The drive was a test of endurance. At times, we had to stop the vehicle so dust would settle inside and we could breathe. Mostly we drove without a road, more like a dry riverbed. It would be impassable in the summer wet season, as the bed would be quicksand. To us it was a route that went forever, leading nowhere, in nowhere land.
Again, we picnicked on the vehicle, once the dust settled. We watched carefully for scorpions. They hibernate in the winter but I didn't want to take a chance. If stung, you'd need medical help within two hours, and apparently it's extremely painful.
Dust Devils (dust tornadoes) sprung up from nowhere in nowhere land gathering great height and then poof, they were gone. The dust remained suspended above the ground in vertical clouds. The termite and ant hills were as big as skyscrapers compared to the ones we'd seen. A lone Maasai appeared over the parched land, walking with a stick, with his blue cape flowing behind him in the hot wind. He came from nowhere and disappeared into nowhere. We drove on.
Wherever there was an oasis there were Maasai. Six kids under a scrawny tree seeking shade and 100 meters further about 40 goats were squished together vying for a piece of shade. There was no water to be seen for kilometers and kilometers. Beyond odd, a gate appeared on a dusty lane with a man sitting in the shade of a tree. A fee was to be paid for the tourists to pass. A pretty young woman with a baby tied to her back approached the car with a string of bracelets, and enormous necklaces for sale. "No thanks," I said smiling, adding "they're beautiful." She persisted, finally asking for water for the baby in very clear English. I gave her my bottle and she walked back to the shade.
By 3:30 we finally arrived at our beautiful hotel and the entourage came to our vehicle to greet us. We were filthy. I couldn't even pull a brush through my hair from dirt. A petite woman offered me a white cool cloth. I confessed, "You don't want to give that to us, it will never be the same."
"Karibou, karibou," she responded. "Welcome." I washed my hands and face and handed back a completely red-sand-coloured cloth. We were then offered orange juice or champagne. "Orange juice please," we said in unison.
By 3:30 we finally arrived at our beautiful hotel and the entourage came to our vehicle to greet us. We were filthy. I couldn't even pull a brush through my hair from dirt. A petite woman offered me a white cool cloth. I confessed, "You don't want to give that to us, it will never be the same."
"Karibou, karibou," she responded. "Welcome." I washed my hands and face and handed back a completely red-sand-coloured cloth. We were then offered orange juice or champagne. "Orange juice please," we said in unison.
Our Last Day
Keeping to our exhaustive schedule, we were called at 5:30 am. I could barely find my way out of the mosquito-covered netting answering the green light on Con's laptop instead of the phone. Breakfast at 6, then we're off to find the nearly extinct rhinoceros living in the unique Norogono crater. The park won't reveal how many rhino live in the 5x4 km crater fearing poachers. Sadly, they are almost extinct due to the magical component Asians believe their horns hold. We drove around the crater for a few hours spotting lions, wildebeest, male elephants, hippos, birds and more birds, hyenas fox, jackals, and maybe a rhino laying in the grasses. He was too far for us to see clearly. Temperatures were just 21 degrees.
A hyena (our first sighting) crossed in front of our vehicle, following the paths the wildebeests make on their migration march around the 19 square km crater floor.
Keeping to our exhaustive schedule, we were called at 5:30 am. I could barely find my way out of the mosquito-covered netting answering the green light on Con's laptop instead of the phone. Breakfast at 6, then we're off to find the nearly extinct rhinoceros living in the unique Norogono crater. The park won't reveal how many rhino live in the 5x4 km crater fearing poachers. Sadly, they are almost extinct due to the magical component Asians believe their horns hold. We drove around the crater for a few hours spotting lions, wildebeest, male elephants, hippos, birds and more birds, hyenas fox, jackals, and maybe a rhino laying in the grasses. He was too far for us to see clearly. Temperatures were just 21 degrees.
A hyena (our first sighting) crossed in front of our vehicle, following the paths the wildebeests make on their migration march around the 19 square km crater floor.
The day was wrapping up and we asked Ayubu to take us back to our hotel for a few relaxing hours. We wanted to ponder the past 11 days on the most incredible safari we could not have imagined. Tomorrow, we fly to Zanzibar for six days of relaxation and pampering.
ZANZIBAR
Once at our tucked-away resort on the island of Zanzibar, Con attempted to open our suitcase. Someone at the airport tucked our zipper tab into the lock and spun the numbers. We didn't have a combination to open it. We tried for an hour, hoping to land on a sequence of numbers that would work. I came out of the private pool with a look of surprise, "Finally! Way to go Con, you got it!"
"No, I used the bottle opener and broke in."
Once at our tucked-away resort on the island of Zanzibar, Con attempted to open our suitcase. Someone at the airport tucked our zipper tab into the lock and spun the numbers. We didn't have a combination to open it. We tried for an hour, hoping to land on a sequence of numbers that would work. I came out of the private pool with a look of surprise, "Finally! Way to go Con, you got it!"
"No, I used the bottle opener and broke in."
Time was nearing for our departure to The Netherlands. We went to the ferry terminal downtown Zanzibar to purchase tickets. It was a mad house! People crammed so tight that their faces were up against the windows. We took a place at the back of a very long line. A uniformed man called me over, motioning Con too. He led me into the back door where I stood with the cashiers and bought our tickets. Towers of money was stacked all around me ready to blow away or fall. I wondered how we were given preference in the back door.
Once on the ferry, I saved a seat for Con who was too busy to join me, watching the activities while still standing ashore. The seats were filling. Now his seat was gone. There could have been 100 people crammed into the enclosed V of the ferry. An entertainer was at the front telling stories, people were laughing, and suddenly, I was a big part of the story telling. People looked at me, laughed, and he carried on. Awkward. A rooster stirred under the seat (that was to be Con's, and Con was still nowhere to be found). The smell! The nice man beside me grabbed the rooster (who was in a bag) and scrambled out the side door and tied the bag to close it and lock it into place on the string attached to the mop leaning against the boat.Con eventually got inside apparently before the ferry departed, unbeknownst to me. All the people sitting in the covered V were told to go outside on the front open V, except me. We had tickets. Eventually, Con appeared smiling, having lots of stories of what he'd witnessed outside.
On the mainland, we hired a driver to take us to the airport. There was a major traffic jam. Entrepreneurial people walked the centre line of the traffic jam selling wares from cups to diapers, fresh foods and electronics. Our driver, moving slowly through traffic all the while making a deal on some electronic gizmo various guys were selling.
On the mainland, we hired a driver to take us to the airport. There was a major traffic jam. Entrepreneurial people walked the centre line of the traffic jam selling wares from cups to diapers, fresh foods and electronics. Our driver, moving slowly through traffic all the while making a deal on some electronic gizmo various guys were selling.