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January 2, 2018
We brought in the new year 36,000 feet above land on our KLM flight from the winter wonderland of Canada to Big Sky in Cartagena, Spain. From minus 44 weather to plus 21 degrees. From the Alicante Airport, we rented a VW Polo for a 2.50 euro cost per day. Once we filled up the fridge we washed down the dirty boat, letting our Vitamin D deprived bodies fill up again. |
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Above: The Yacht Port Marina, Cartagena.
We're enjoying Cartagena, Spain as our 2017-2018 Winter location. It is perhaps our favourite spots to dock for winter.
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An article from a few years ago: An Inspirational Philosophy of Sailing Through Life https://www.nauticalmind.com/blog/2012/02/sailing-through-life/
Below: the Russian-owned sailing yacht "A", is docked across the harbour from us. Built in 2017 and reportedly at a cost well over US 400 million dollars, she underwent final sea trials in the Cartagena shipyard. It has three, free-standing masts more than 300 feet tall. They remind me of the windmills on the mountain sides, minus the blades. It is the largest sailing vessel in the world.
The centre picture is a cozy view of town, just to the other side of us. And, directly behind us is a breakwater where a big excavator is dropping rocks just on the far side of the pier to keep the dirt from silting up too shallow for the cruise ships, since that's where they tie up. Their season will begin again in a month or so.
The centre picture is a cozy view of town, just to the other side of us. And, directly behind us is a breakwater where a big excavator is dropping rocks just on the far side of the pier to keep the dirt from silting up too shallow for the cruise ships, since that's where they tie up. Their season will begin again in a month or so.
January 3, 2018 -- Wasting no time, for lunch we headed to our favourite fresh fish restaurant located on the water's edge, where the fishermen tie up after their day's catch. Con enjoyed mussels and calamari and I had the grilled dorado. Delicious. Sitting in 20+ temperatures under the sun on the terrace, we eat and drank 2 euro glasses of wine. Directly behind us is a boat yard, and I chatted with a Spanish man working with fiberglass, asking if he was a professional. He wasn't, but his friend over hearing our conversation immediately contacted a professional who came table and made a date to visit our boat. That's Cartagena. In the afternoon, we dropped our bikes at a cycle shop and within 30 minutes our front tires were replaced. The best part of the day was the time invested waiting in the government office to chat with someone about a speeding ticket we'd received mid November. The cost was 100 euro, but if paid within 20 days it would be reduced to 50. When we explained that we'd just received it a week ago, the lady kindly reissued it with a new date so our fee was dropped back to 50 euro. Con drove 12 kilometers over the limit. In the evening, Cartagena celebrated the Rosca de Reyes (cake for kings) as part of the lead up to Epiphany. In Spain, the children leave a glass of water and bread cake for the three wise men who arrive by camel January 6th. In a few days, we'll watch the three wise men arrive in Cartagena in the marina. Below: the Rosca de Reyes celebration.
January 5th, the Three Wise Men known as the Three Magi Kings, arrived in Spain to help the Christians celebrate the baptism of Jesus called the Epiphany. Thousands of happy people and kids dressed so adorably in their best clothes arrived to take part it the food and dancing under the warm sun. When the Three Kings and their princesses and princes arrived, the crowd filled with merriment. Two of the Kings spoke to the crowds of kids (in Spanish) and my translation went something like: "All you children have been so good, we have a treat for everyone." The second King said, "You (the children) have been so good going to bed when you're told, that we three kings are very happy." After that, they sat in red velvet chairs and greeted the children one at a time and gave them candy treats.
January 13 -- We ventured out for a three-day road trip to Malaga taking in the Picasso Museum, tapas, sight-seeing, and a side trip as far as Estepona, south of Marbella and north to Aguadulce to see what the real estate market is like in the water-front region of those areas. The Marbella area is scary! Traffic! People! Every available clump of land has a series of white town houses, or a hotel stacked on it and its inhabitants come from around the world. You can imagine how enticing the area has been, with the turquoise Mediterranean Sea glistening to the south and lapping up onto endless white-sand beaches, green lush trees, bushes, and flowers flourishing even in winter, and the Sierra Blanca Mountains as a backdrop. In 1950, there were 10,000 people there and grew 900 percent from then to 2001. Today, nearly everyone that lives there is other than Spanish, and it's estimated that nearly a million people cram in there during the summer season. The area is packed with golf courses, townhouses, cars and more cars. The highway has two lanes going in each direction, with merging lanes on the left. Construction has grown and covered every available piece of land, including merging lanes on the main highway.
Below: Our apartment in the centre of Malaga. Seven floor-length windows (four in the living room) one in the kitchen off the living room, and one in each bedroom. The middle picture is of our apartment (third floor above the Spanish flag on the corner)!
Below: Our apartment in the centre of Malaga. Seven floor-length windows (four in the living room) one in the kitchen off the living room, and one in each bedroom. The middle picture is of our apartment (third floor above the Spanish flag on the corner)!
January 19 -- Touring Calpe, Moraire, Javea, and Altea
On our hunt for the "just right" real estate (for when we're finished sailing) we are narrowing down our search having viewed a number of properties overlooking the Coast Brava area of Spain. Below: from our hotel in Calpe, a sail surfer; Con and I in Javea; and a tucked away cove just outside Javea. The weather is brilliant for January.
On our hunt for the "just right" real estate (for when we're finished sailing) we are narrowing down our search having viewed a number of properties overlooking the Coast Brava area of Spain. Below: from our hotel in Calpe, a sail surfer; Con and I in Javea; and a tucked away cove just outside Javea. The weather is brilliant for January.
January 27 -- Thirty Minutes from Cartagena
This afternoon, we drove west exploring the rugged mountainous terrain. Just a few minutes out of the town the semi-arid climate of the region is evident in the red desert-like colours of the soil and rocks. Almond trees are in bloom softening the landscape and announcing that spring is coming. Cartagena is where the Spanish navy hangs out. Yesterday, was the last day of a week-long celebration in Cartagena called: Armed Forces Day, to showcase the work they do for Spain. Tours of the patrol frigate “Elena” we’re possible dockside, and using a simulator, you could captain it. Also exhibitions of their various division: divers, anti-mine, anti-aircraft artillary, and parachute squadron. Also a concert of the Military Band, which was aboard a patrol boat moving through the harbour. As a major defensive area, we stumbled upon the Gun Battery of Castillitos (quite literally by accident). Con put a way point on the map to a point that juts out into the sea. Driving the last seven kilometers of the road was not for the faint of heart, we actually turned around at the half-way point but when we investigated the location further on the internet we realized there was a treasure to be seen. Four forts and two enormous guns. We turned back around and drove the one-lane cliff-hanging road to Cabo Tinoso, 300 meters above the sea. It once served as part of the defense for Cartagena's large harbor (where the navy has hidden out for centuries). It was constructed in the 1920s and abandoned in 1993. Each of the guns (pictured) weigh 88 tons! Allegedly they were fired just once, at Nationalists during the Spanish Civil War in 1937 and never fired again.
This afternoon, we drove west exploring the rugged mountainous terrain. Just a few minutes out of the town the semi-arid climate of the region is evident in the red desert-like colours of the soil and rocks. Almond trees are in bloom softening the landscape and announcing that spring is coming. Cartagena is where the Spanish navy hangs out. Yesterday, was the last day of a week-long celebration in Cartagena called: Armed Forces Day, to showcase the work they do for Spain. Tours of the patrol frigate “Elena” we’re possible dockside, and using a simulator, you could captain it. Also exhibitions of their various division: divers, anti-mine, anti-aircraft artillary, and parachute squadron. Also a concert of the Military Band, which was aboard a patrol boat moving through the harbour. As a major defensive area, we stumbled upon the Gun Battery of Castillitos (quite literally by accident). Con put a way point on the map to a point that juts out into the sea. Driving the last seven kilometers of the road was not for the faint of heart, we actually turned around at the half-way point but when we investigated the location further on the internet we realized there was a treasure to be seen. Four forts and two enormous guns. We turned back around and drove the one-lane cliff-hanging road to Cabo Tinoso, 300 meters above the sea. It once served as part of the defense for Cartagena's large harbor (where the navy has hidden out for centuries). It was constructed in the 1920s and abandoned in 1993. Each of the guns (pictured) weigh 88 tons! Allegedly they were fired just once, at Nationalists during the Spanish Civil War in 1937 and never fired again.
February 1, 2018 -- The Red Earth of Cartagena
A half an hour along the coast east to Portman we entered another world! This area of Cartagena is an economic engine not only for Cartagena, but for Spain with oil refineries, gas plants, power plants, mining areas, and also abandoned mining areas. We drove to the Tailing Pond outside Portman, once the most polluting area of the Mediterranean. Mining has taken place more than 2500 years, as people as far back as the Roman civilization have dug out the ore here in this part of the Sierra Mountains. It's an area of oxymorons to me. We looked at the Tailing Pond situated in a beautiful cove, and learned that heavy metal and mineral waste was once poured into the bay and that today people are working reclaim the land and sea. However, a fish farm sits just a few hundred meters from the tailing pond, and the other odd thing is that the area is surrounded by a rich pine forest. (In the first picture below, you can see the tailing pond and further out, the flat area in the water is the fish farm.) We parked a bit further along in a tucked away area and hiked a kilometer through the forest along what was once a Roman Road. Spring is arriving with many natural wild flowers making their way through the red dry earth.
A half an hour along the coast east to Portman we entered another world! This area of Cartagena is an economic engine not only for Cartagena, but for Spain with oil refineries, gas plants, power plants, mining areas, and also abandoned mining areas. We drove to the Tailing Pond outside Portman, once the most polluting area of the Mediterranean. Mining has taken place more than 2500 years, as people as far back as the Roman civilization have dug out the ore here in this part of the Sierra Mountains. It's an area of oxymorons to me. We looked at the Tailing Pond situated in a beautiful cove, and learned that heavy metal and mineral waste was once poured into the bay and that today people are working reclaim the land and sea. However, a fish farm sits just a few hundred meters from the tailing pond, and the other odd thing is that the area is surrounded by a rich pine forest. (In the first picture below, you can see the tailing pond and further out, the flat area in the water is the fish farm.) We parked a bit further along in a tucked away area and hiked a kilometer through the forest along what was once a Roman Road. Spring is arriving with many natural wild flowers making their way through the red dry earth.
February 5 -- Birthday Boy Surprise
For Con's birthday (February 6th) I surprised him with a stay in a beautiful hotel in the heart of Murcia, the capital of the Murcia Region (where Cartagena is located) and booked us into a Michelin-starred tapas restaurant for a late lunch. For a guy who wants for nothing, who claims to have enough shorts to last him until his end days, a gift of good food in an enjoyable restaurant is a hit. On Sunday, a special event took place in the large Murcia Cathedral where many monks and nuns from parts of Spain and Africa attended and the two-story high organ played behind us while nuns sang, and the cardinal told the people to help the refugees and less fortunate. The soup kitchen for the homeless and migrants was right around the corner. Monday, we toured the city. Pictured below, the Episcopal Palace in pink, the residence for the Roman Catholic Diocese when they arrive. To its left is the enormous Murcia Cathedral pictured below. This square is the oldest part of the city, where the Alcazar's castle, mosque, and Prince's House was once located during the Muslim period. On the way to Murcia, fields of artichokes were growing. On our way home, we encountered the intersection below. Which way would you go? We started right and were told to go left.
For Con's birthday (February 6th) I surprised him with a stay in a beautiful hotel in the heart of Murcia, the capital of the Murcia Region (where Cartagena is located) and booked us into a Michelin-starred tapas restaurant for a late lunch. For a guy who wants for nothing, who claims to have enough shorts to last him until his end days, a gift of good food in an enjoyable restaurant is a hit. On Sunday, a special event took place in the large Murcia Cathedral where many monks and nuns from parts of Spain and Africa attended and the two-story high organ played behind us while nuns sang, and the cardinal told the people to help the refugees and less fortunate. The soup kitchen for the homeless and migrants was right around the corner. Monday, we toured the city. Pictured below, the Episcopal Palace in pink, the residence for the Roman Catholic Diocese when they arrive. To its left is the enormous Murcia Cathedral pictured below. This square is the oldest part of the city, where the Alcazar's castle, mosque, and Prince's House was once located during the Muslim period. On the way to Murcia, fields of artichokes were growing. On our way home, we encountered the intersection below. Which way would you go? We started right and were told to go left.
February 6 -- Con's Birthday! Albertine and Pom Arrive Aboard for 10 Days
Albertine, Con's sister and their childhood friend Pom arrived the evening of Con's birthday to help continue with celebrations. In the morning, we visited Licor 43, the colourful factory where the liquor "43" is made, located just outside Cartagena. After the tour, we were given a drink made with Ginger Ale, 43, and fresh lime. Good! The next morning, we drove to La Union to visit Parque Minero, a 50,000 square meter protected area once the site of many underground mines, one of which we visited. A train took us up to the mine and once we donned hard hats, we entered the 80 meter deep mine where Pyrite and lead was extracted among some of the minerals. The activities of the 19th century and early 20th century created a peculiar landscape. Pom and I hiked back down through what was once a mineral washing site, and following the contorted landscape. For kilometers along the coastal route back to Cartagena, chimney's can be seen as part of the underground activity and more of the carved unique landscape. We drove to Cabo de Palos for a delicious lunch at a table on the edge of the waterfront. Con and Albertine shared Paella.
Albertine, Con's sister and their childhood friend Pom arrived the evening of Con's birthday to help continue with celebrations. In the morning, we visited Licor 43, the colourful factory where the liquor "43" is made, located just outside Cartagena. After the tour, we were given a drink made with Ginger Ale, 43, and fresh lime. Good! The next morning, we drove to La Union to visit Parque Minero, a 50,000 square meter protected area once the site of many underground mines, one of which we visited. A train took us up to the mine and once we donned hard hats, we entered the 80 meter deep mine where Pyrite and lead was extracted among some of the minerals. The activities of the 19th century and early 20th century created a peculiar landscape. Pom and I hiked back down through what was once a mineral washing site, and following the contorted landscape. For kilometers along the coastal route back to Cartagena, chimney's can be seen as part of the underground activity and more of the carved unique landscape. We drove to Cabo de Palos for a delicious lunch at a table on the edge of the waterfront. Con and Albertine shared Paella.
Below: Con at the fresh fish restaurant around the corner from our boat; the handsome waiter preparing Con and Albertine's paella in Cabo de Palos; and Albertine, Pom and me after our Licor 43 tour.
Below: scads of kids behind Big Sky in their Optimists; our old sail coming down and new one up.
February 11 -- Weather was near perfect, so we untied Big Sky and headed west to Mazaron, just a few hours sail from Cartagena. It was an opportunity to try out our new sail. It needed a bit of tweaking in the luft line, but now all is well. We can't believe how much better Big Sky performs with the new material. Our stay in Mazaron was peaceful and calm, unlike the return back to our winter port. The sea decided to kick up and without wind, we rolled with the sea. With just a few days remaining in Pom and Albertine's holiday, they hosted us to lunch at Cape Palo, a beautiful little restaurant on the edge of the cape.
February 15 – I Race Back to Canada
Lindsey, our daughter in Red Deer, Alberta was pushing a neighbour’s car out of a snow drift and promptly blew out her knee, collapsing in the snow in front of her children (Amy 1 and Kate 3). She was taken to the hospital for emergency surgery to dig out parts of her femur bone and knee cap from her swollen knee, and was wrapped in a leg cast ankle to thigh. Con delivered me to the Cartagena bus station for a six-hour trek to the Madrid Airport. I then took an airport shuttle bus to a nearby hotel for a three-hour night and back to the airport to board the 6 am flight to Amsterdam, and then the noon flight to Calgary. While Lindsey was in surgery, Les (her husband) drove 1.5 hours to Calgary with the two little once sleeping in their car seats, collected me and we returned to Red Deer just after Lindsey had returned home from surgery (with the help of a friend). Les made a bed on the main floor since it would be a few weeks before Lindsey would be able to make her way upstairs. I immediately began two weeks of non-stop activities to help care for the busy household. At one point, I didn’t realize until the end of the day that I’d worn my stretch pants inside out. Flopping into bed exhausted at the end of the day felt good, knowing I was a big help. The weather in Red Deer was cold most days, usually around -20 early morning, warming to a sunny -10 by afternoon. Les was a better sport than I, bundling the kids to play in the snow with him when he’d get home. I waited until the temperatures reached -5 or warmer before taking them out! A couple of times Les built a backyard campfire with them, and once I spotted him giving Kate a ride on Lindsey’s bike all the while carrying it and her above the snow piles around and around the yard. My two weeks had come to an end. A nasty snow storm arrived the night before we were to drive to Calgary for my flight. Les and I bundled the kids and set off in his heavy truck. Just outside Airdrie (3/4’s of the way to the airport from Red Deer) the weather had deteriorated making the highway icy and the trucks kicking up blinding snow. The traffic slowed to a crawl as we passed cars, trucks, and semi’s that had slid off the road into the ditches on either side of the highway. A semi with a trailer full of cattle had missed becoming airborne over the Airdrie overpass by 75 meters, finally coming to a tilted stop just in the snowy medium just before entering the oncoming traffic! Con, my fabulous husband met me at the Alicante airport having arrived by bus – a three-hour journey so he could drive back with me in the rented car. I was grateful for his company, since it took everything not to fall asleep at the wheel.
Lindsey, our daughter in Red Deer, Alberta was pushing a neighbour’s car out of a snow drift and promptly blew out her knee, collapsing in the snow in front of her children (Amy 1 and Kate 3). She was taken to the hospital for emergency surgery to dig out parts of her femur bone and knee cap from her swollen knee, and was wrapped in a leg cast ankle to thigh. Con delivered me to the Cartagena bus station for a six-hour trek to the Madrid Airport. I then took an airport shuttle bus to a nearby hotel for a three-hour night and back to the airport to board the 6 am flight to Amsterdam, and then the noon flight to Calgary. While Lindsey was in surgery, Les (her husband) drove 1.5 hours to Calgary with the two little once sleeping in their car seats, collected me and we returned to Red Deer just after Lindsey had returned home from surgery (with the help of a friend). Les made a bed on the main floor since it would be a few weeks before Lindsey would be able to make her way upstairs. I immediately began two weeks of non-stop activities to help care for the busy household. At one point, I didn’t realize until the end of the day that I’d worn my stretch pants inside out. Flopping into bed exhausted at the end of the day felt good, knowing I was a big help. The weather in Red Deer was cold most days, usually around -20 early morning, warming to a sunny -10 by afternoon. Les was a better sport than I, bundling the kids to play in the snow with him when he’d get home. I waited until the temperatures reached -5 or warmer before taking them out! A couple of times Les built a backyard campfire with them, and once I spotted him giving Kate a ride on Lindsey’s bike all the while carrying it and her above the snow piles around and around the yard. My two weeks had come to an end. A nasty snow storm arrived the night before we were to drive to Calgary for my flight. Les and I bundled the kids and set off in his heavy truck. Just outside Airdrie (3/4’s of the way to the airport from Red Deer) the weather had deteriorated making the highway icy and the trucks kicking up blinding snow. The traffic slowed to a crawl as we passed cars, trucks, and semi’s that had slid off the road into the ditches on either side of the highway. A semi with a trailer full of cattle had missed becoming airborne over the Airdrie overpass by 75 meters, finally coming to a tilted stop just in the snowy medium just before entering the oncoming traffic! Con, my fabulous husband met me at the Alicante airport having arrived by bus – a three-hour journey so he could drive back with me in the rented car. I was grateful for his company, since it took everything not to fall asleep at the wheel.
March 4 – Freak Storm Creates Rescue at Sea
Windfinder (our go-to website for wind and sea conditions) indicated 12 - 15 knots through the night at the coast, but much worse further out to sea. By 3 am, however, Big Sky was taking on a southwest steady wind at 45 - 50 knots. I tried to fall back asleep, but kept thinking how rough it would be out at sea if anyone was caught out there. By 3:30 am, the wind-speed indicator clocked 61 knots. I put on my housecoat the poked my head outside. Our southwest line was holding, mind you with plenty of strain. Obviously, the storm at sea had moved in and was attacking the coast. It lasted about an hour before returning to 12-15 knots. I fell back asleep. Sitting in the sunny enclosed cockpit, we spotted the Search and Rescue ship tied port-side to a 21 meter sailboat limping into the marina, and watched the marinara’s secure them behind us.
We later learned that the sailboat had left Alicante for Malaga, a 244 NM journey, early in morning, likely attempting to skirt the heavy storm by sailing close to shore. However, by 3 am they had somehow lost all electrical power leaving them allegedly without the ability to sail which is puzzling. We assumed they used their cell phone to call for help, but were unable to provide their correct coordinates. We looked up the AIS tracks of the Search and Rescue ship indicating that they’d left the Cartagena harbour heading directly south at top speed, not in the direction of the sailboat. Meanwhile, the sailboat was being blown dangerously close to the cape just east of Cartagena. The sailboat crew must have described landmarks which gave the Search and Rescue better coordinates as they made a sharp 45 degree turn rescuing the boat and crew. We’re guessing the wind speeds at sea during the storm could have been 50-60 with gusts to 70 knots. The cost to the sailboat for the tow: more than 2,000 euro, however, they likely saved their lives and the boat.
Windfinder (our go-to website for wind and sea conditions) indicated 12 - 15 knots through the night at the coast, but much worse further out to sea. By 3 am, however, Big Sky was taking on a southwest steady wind at 45 - 50 knots. I tried to fall back asleep, but kept thinking how rough it would be out at sea if anyone was caught out there. By 3:30 am, the wind-speed indicator clocked 61 knots. I put on my housecoat the poked my head outside. Our southwest line was holding, mind you with plenty of strain. Obviously, the storm at sea had moved in and was attacking the coast. It lasted about an hour before returning to 12-15 knots. I fell back asleep. Sitting in the sunny enclosed cockpit, we spotted the Search and Rescue ship tied port-side to a 21 meter sailboat limping into the marina, and watched the marinara’s secure them behind us.
We later learned that the sailboat had left Alicante for Malaga, a 244 NM journey, early in morning, likely attempting to skirt the heavy storm by sailing close to shore. However, by 3 am they had somehow lost all electrical power leaving them allegedly without the ability to sail which is puzzling. We assumed they used their cell phone to call for help, but were unable to provide their correct coordinates. We looked up the AIS tracks of the Search and Rescue ship indicating that they’d left the Cartagena harbour heading directly south at top speed, not in the direction of the sailboat. Meanwhile, the sailboat was being blown dangerously close to the cape just east of Cartagena. The sailboat crew must have described landmarks which gave the Search and Rescue better coordinates as they made a sharp 45 degree turn rescuing the boat and crew. We’re guessing the wind speeds at sea during the storm could have been 50-60 with gusts to 70 knots. The cost to the sailboat for the tow: more than 2,000 euro, however, they likely saved their lives and the boat.
March 9 -- Road Trip to Cieza, Peach Heaven
We waited for the best day of the week to visit the pretty town of Cieza to witness the peach trees bursting into bloom. We packed our fold-up bikes and drove an hour and a half from Cartagena into the gorgeous town of Cieza, located in a valley surrounded by 10,000 hectares of peach orchards. As temperatures rose (to 27 degrees) both the pink and the white blossom trees came into view, a mosaic of colour in their early blooms. Although behind schedule from unseasonably cool weather, we weren't disappointed. Stopping in the tourist office, we picked up maps and set off. Taking the wrong turn at the start and found ourselves climbing a vertical rocky-path slope that pretty near exhausted us before we started. After another map consultation, we found ourselves yet again climbing another massive slope but the payoff was a spectacular view of the region. Cycling back into town, we locked the bikes and purchased tickets to the weekend's "Sabor Arte" where for a minimal cost you enter a large tent and enjoy the many and varied regional cuisine. With Con's hunger not quite satisfied, we sat at the bar stools at a tapas café and he indulged in a variety of offerings for nearly nothing. This was our second stop at this bar, earlier we'd ordered two cortadas con leche (two strong coffee's in short glass topped with warm milk) for a euro each.
We waited for the best day of the week to visit the pretty town of Cieza to witness the peach trees bursting into bloom. We packed our fold-up bikes and drove an hour and a half from Cartagena into the gorgeous town of Cieza, located in a valley surrounded by 10,000 hectares of peach orchards. As temperatures rose (to 27 degrees) both the pink and the white blossom trees came into view, a mosaic of colour in their early blooms. Although behind schedule from unseasonably cool weather, we weren't disappointed. Stopping in the tourist office, we picked up maps and set off. Taking the wrong turn at the start and found ourselves climbing a vertical rocky-path slope that pretty near exhausted us before we started. After another map consultation, we found ourselves yet again climbing another massive slope but the payoff was a spectacular view of the region. Cycling back into town, we locked the bikes and purchased tickets to the weekend's "Sabor Arte" where for a minimal cost you enter a large tent and enjoy the many and varied regional cuisine. With Con's hunger not quite satisfied, we sat at the bar stools at a tapas café and he indulged in a variety of offerings for nearly nothing. This was our second stop at this bar, earlier we'd ordered two cortadas con leche (two strong coffee's in short glass topped with warm milk) for a euro each.
March 17, 2018 -- Road Trip to Lorca
Stopping for goats on the highway we approached the tunnel drilled through the rock where the enormous Lorca Castle sits high above the town. We parked in one of nearly zero available spaces in the old town as they prepare for the huge week-long celebration called, "St. Jose" or Father's Day (recognizing Joseph, Jesus' father) and also kicking off the Easter holiday, known as Semana Santa. Lorca is anticipating 19,000 people to line the streets to watch the procession of parades showcasing the church's statues. Schools are closed this coming week and many businesses. Lorca has a pretty mix of Christian and Muslim influences in their architecture, making the old town an interesting place to wander. The town was seriously damaged in 2011 with a 5.3 earthquake equal to a 7 magnitude because of the depth. It seriously damaged the castle and various buildings today show the cracks. We stopped at the Plaza de Espana in the heart of the city where the church St. Patrick's resides, a dedication to the Irish saint. Ironically, we stood in the church exactly 566 days to the day when Lorca battled Granada. March 17, 1452. Saint Patrick's Day! The mayor paraded from the church to the Plaza below saluting the local police and playing their national anthem to cheers from the crowds.
Stopping for goats on the highway we approached the tunnel drilled through the rock where the enormous Lorca Castle sits high above the town. We parked in one of nearly zero available spaces in the old town as they prepare for the huge week-long celebration called, "St. Jose" or Father's Day (recognizing Joseph, Jesus' father) and also kicking off the Easter holiday, known as Semana Santa. Lorca is anticipating 19,000 people to line the streets to watch the procession of parades showcasing the church's statues. Schools are closed this coming week and many businesses. Lorca has a pretty mix of Christian and Muslim influences in their architecture, making the old town an interesting place to wander. The town was seriously damaged in 2011 with a 5.3 earthquake equal to a 7 magnitude because of the depth. It seriously damaged the castle and various buildings today show the cracks. We stopped at the Plaza de Espana in the heart of the city where the church St. Patrick's resides, a dedication to the Irish saint. Ironically, we stood in the church exactly 566 days to the day when Lorca battled Granada. March 17, 1452. Saint Patrick's Day! The mayor paraded from the church to the Plaza below saluting the local police and playing their national anthem to cheers from the crowds.
Sunday, the cruisers living aboard in the Cartagena Yacht Marina get together for a barbecue. Brits, Swedes, Germans, Dutch, Aussie’s, American’s and two Canadians (us) share sailing stories, their destination in the upcoming sailing season, and inevitably the best cruising locations are tossed around.
March 18th is Father's Day in Spain. We drove back to Cieza to have another look at the peach trees. We cycled through the first time when the trees were just beginning to bud. The fields are remarkably beautiful and the aroma is glorious.
March 18th is Father's Day in Spain. We drove back to Cieza to have another look at the peach trees. We cycled through the first time when the trees were just beginning to bud. The fields are remarkably beautiful and the aroma is glorious.
March 23 — Istanbul to Texas
We’re in enroute to Texas and then to Canada for a last visit with our family before returning to Big Sky to begin our sailing season. Our travels stopped in Istanbul last night, and we shuttled to the Renaissance Hotel. Our 15th floor room overlooks the Sea of Marmara. We are in Europe with Asia across the water. The Black Sea flows into the Bosporus passing the Istanbul Palace, the Aga Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and flowing into the Sea of Marmara passing our hotel. Despite being in transit to North America, it was necessary to purchase Turkish Visas, and they’re not cheap for Canadians, CND$80 each. The weather in dreary, overcast, slight rain, and cold, 10 degrees. By the end of today, we will be in 28 degree Texas temperatures.
Below: a misty view from our hotel room looking toward Asia, and a shot of the Istanbul airport lounge.
We’re in enroute to Texas and then to Canada for a last visit with our family before returning to Big Sky to begin our sailing season. Our travels stopped in Istanbul last night, and we shuttled to the Renaissance Hotel. Our 15th floor room overlooks the Sea of Marmara. We are in Europe with Asia across the water. The Black Sea flows into the Bosporus passing the Istanbul Palace, the Aga Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and flowing into the Sea of Marmara passing our hotel. Despite being in transit to North America, it was necessary to purchase Turkish Visas, and they’re not cheap for Canadians, CND$80 each. The weather in dreary, overcast, slight rain, and cold, 10 degrees. By the end of today, we will be in 28 degree Texas temperatures.
Below: a misty view from our hotel room looking toward Asia, and a shot of the Istanbul airport lounge.
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March 23 — Rough Landing in Houston
We left Istanbul in high spirits, enjoying the business-class lounge in Istanbul having bought our flights on points. The flight was comfortable, fabulous food prepared by a chef, lay-flat seats, great entertainment. After 13 hours though, we were anxious to land and because it was late, we were excited to have it all go smoothly. In other words, luggage roll off the ramp, car rental ready, route set on the GPS, so we’d arrive in Conroe, an hour and a bit away by car. It didn’t appear outside the plane windows that there was a lot of wind, but the plane laboured on its approach, with the wings seemingly flapping and the plane rotating side to side far beyond the usual landing style. Then, there’s that moment when you hold your breath waiting for touchdown, it came with a bang, landing on the left wheel. Things inside flew to the left as the plane tipped, righting itself with another hard bounce, on the right wheel, then the nose slammed down hard. The pilot was not in control of the plane at this point, as it moved around the runway and in the next breath, we were slugging our way up into the overcast skies. Inside the plane was deathly quiet until we heard nervous laughter. Odd, I thought, because I was trying my hardest not to cry from my fear. We circled again, and when we lined up to approach the landing strip again, I wondered a million things, but especially whether the tires were still inflated and the wheel legs not shattered. We did land the second time without a hitch. There were about twenty wheelchairs waiting at the gate, likely the procedure when there’s a situation as we experienced. Click on the red button below for photos and stories of our trip to Canada and our five days in Texas with Courtney, Mike, sweet 8-year old Hailey, and our buddy Louie the Lab. |
April 22 — Road Trip to Madrid and on to France
Packing our freshly laundered clothes from our trip to Canada and the USA, we set off by car back to Madrid, a 4.5-hour drive for our final land trip before beginning our sailing season. We’re celebrating what would have been Con’s mom’s 102nd birthday (yesterday). The family had wanted to celebrate with her when she turned 100, but she died 1.5 years short of a century. Her greatest joy was seeing her family together, so in her honour, five of her six children (and their spouses, making nine of us) are getting together in the Loire region of France. Ahead of the celebrations, Con and I booked into a modern apartment in the heart of the theatre district of Madrid. The weather is perfect for touring, and that we did along with thousands of people taking in this beautiful city and its history. Madrid’s population is 3.2 million, and when you add on the outlying districts, it’s more than 6 million, and then add on the tourists. The sidewalks are thick with people and crossing the street when the walk lights is a feat.
We lined up with hordes of people to view the Royal Palace, not the place where the current monarchy of Spain lives, but still their official residence and the place for their state ceremonies. It is located on the former site of the Alcázar palace of the Spanish Hasburgs. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to capture the palace’s art collections, (many painted by Goya) the marble floors, wall tapestries, silk embroidered hangings, crystal chandeliers on camera. Picture taking is not allowed!
Below: The Royal Palace is pictured top row centre, and bottom row left.
Packing our freshly laundered clothes from our trip to Canada and the USA, we set off by car back to Madrid, a 4.5-hour drive for our final land trip before beginning our sailing season. We’re celebrating what would have been Con’s mom’s 102nd birthday (yesterday). The family had wanted to celebrate with her when she turned 100, but she died 1.5 years short of a century. Her greatest joy was seeing her family together, so in her honour, five of her six children (and their spouses, making nine of us) are getting together in the Loire region of France. Ahead of the celebrations, Con and I booked into a modern apartment in the heart of the theatre district of Madrid. The weather is perfect for touring, and that we did along with thousands of people taking in this beautiful city and its history. Madrid’s population is 3.2 million, and when you add on the outlying districts, it’s more than 6 million, and then add on the tourists. The sidewalks are thick with people and crossing the street when the walk lights is a feat.
We lined up with hordes of people to view the Royal Palace, not the place where the current monarchy of Spain lives, but still their official residence and the place for their state ceremonies. It is located on the former site of the Alcázar palace of the Spanish Hasburgs. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to capture the palace’s art collections, (many painted by Goya) the marble floors, wall tapestries, silk embroidered hangings, crystal chandeliers on camera. Picture taking is not allowed!
Below: The Royal Palace is pictured top row centre, and bottom row left.
April 24 — Walking Tour of Madrid
We had a personal free walking tour of the “old city” of Madrid since no one else joined in. You tip the guide at the end based on the value you believe you had. Our guide led us through the areas where the Spanish Inquisition trials took place, and into the large plaza (pictured top left) in Plaza Mayor where the executions took place of the accused. The king and queen had the best seats to watch the gruesome events along with the citizens. The inquisition was a major way the country illuminated the Jews and Muslims. Since there were just three of us, we were invited into the Sabrina de Botin, the oldest continually operated restaurant in the world, founded in 1725. They were preparing for lunch, with a back pantry full of suckling pigs, pictured centre middle. And, guess who used to frequent the restaurant? Hemingway of course, since he’s been everywhere we’ve traveled. We walked back to the Royal Palace (we toured the day before) and learned that the famous fire in the late 1700s was actually set (or so it is believed) by the then king, who wanted to have the largest castle in the western world. Apparently he had famous paintings and other treasures taken out, and then, oops, the castle caught fire. The wall middle right is what remains of the original wall built to keep out the Ottoman and at one time surrounded the city.
We had a personal free walking tour of the “old city” of Madrid since no one else joined in. You tip the guide at the end based on the value you believe you had. Our guide led us through the areas where the Spanish Inquisition trials took place, and into the large plaza (pictured top left) in Plaza Mayor where the executions took place of the accused. The king and queen had the best seats to watch the gruesome events along with the citizens. The inquisition was a major way the country illuminated the Jews and Muslims. Since there were just three of us, we were invited into the Sabrina de Botin, the oldest continually operated restaurant in the world, founded in 1725. They were preparing for lunch, with a back pantry full of suckling pigs, pictured centre middle. And, guess who used to frequent the restaurant? Hemingway of course, since he’s been everywhere we’ve traveled. We walked back to the Royal Palace (we toured the day before) and learned that the famous fire in the late 1700s was actually set (or so it is believed) by the then king, who wanted to have the largest castle in the western world. Apparently he had famous paintings and other treasures taken out, and then, oops, the castle caught fire. The wall middle right is what remains of the original wall built to keep out the Ottoman and at one time surrounded the city.
To France with Con’s brothers and Sisters
April 27 — Spain to France
From Madrid, we flew to Orly Airport Paris. We must have passed dozens of uniformed semi-automatic toting police in the airport on our walk to the car rental. It was intimidating to have a male soldier standing watch over me as I washed my hands in the ladies washroom. Our three-hour drive landed us at the beautiful house on 50 hectares of land including the Chateau du Moulin pictured below surrounded by green grass. Our host Fanny’s great grandfather bought the Chateau at the turn of the century and it has been handed down through the generations. We joined family enjoying wine and snacks on the lawn in the late afternoon sunshine. That night, we were serenaded by a myriade of birds and by night, the beautiful song of the Nightengales.
Coordinating the activities for 10 might be a great task, but not for the Sprengers. Day one, three went golfing with their two dogs and the rest of us set off to the stunningly beautiful, tourist-packed Chateau de Chenonceau - The Ladies’ Chateau, built on the River Cher, pictured below across the water. King Henry II gave the castle to his mistress in 1547 and when he died, his wife claimed it.
Below: Chateau du Moulin on the grounds where we’re staying. Centre: Chateau de Chenonceau. Con’s family, with Fanny our host at the centre of the table. Con, and his brother Geert.
From Madrid, we flew to Orly Airport Paris. We must have passed dozens of uniformed semi-automatic toting police in the airport on our walk to the car rental. It was intimidating to have a male soldier standing watch over me as I washed my hands in the ladies washroom. Our three-hour drive landed us at the beautiful house on 50 hectares of land including the Chateau du Moulin pictured below surrounded by green grass. Our host Fanny’s great grandfather bought the Chateau at the turn of the century and it has been handed down through the generations. We joined family enjoying wine and snacks on the lawn in the late afternoon sunshine. That night, we were serenaded by a myriade of birds and by night, the beautiful song of the Nightengales.
Coordinating the activities for 10 might be a great task, but not for the Sprengers. Day one, three went golfing with their two dogs and the rest of us set off to the stunningly beautiful, tourist-packed Chateau de Chenonceau - The Ladies’ Chateau, built on the River Cher, pictured below across the water. King Henry II gave the castle to his mistress in 1547 and when he died, his wife claimed it.
Below: Chateau du Moulin on the grounds where we’re staying. Centre: Chateau de Chenonceau. Con’s family, with Fanny our host at the centre of the table. Con, and his brother Geert.
Day two, we drove to the small town of Romorantin to enjoy the fresh produce market before lunch. The French have their way with pigs! Below: pig’s ears, tongue, and feet. The long white sausage below is called Andouillette, which Con tried in Atlantic France, and to this day it is the only food he WILL NOT eat again. For lunch, I had confit du canard, and a to-die-for cream brûlée, pictured below.
Day three, the rains arrived and stayed all day. "Wet is wet" we used to tell grand daughter Hailey, so despite the rain, we walked to the enchanting Chateau du Montin, pictured above surrounded by green grass (the mote is out of site). This is where our host, Fanny’s mother and grandmother lived and where she lived when visiting as a young woman. The video attached is from a drone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrFZRHatzFY
Day three, the rains arrived and stayed all day. "Wet is wet" we used to tell grand daughter Hailey, so despite the rain, we walked to the enchanting Chateau du Montin, pictured above surrounded by green grass (the mote is out of site). This is where our host, Fanny’s mother and grandmother lived and where she lived when visiting as a young woman. The video attached is from a drone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrFZRHatzFY
May 1, 2018 — Back to Big Sky
Rising early, we shuttled to the airport for our flight from Paris to Madrid which will complete our land tours for this spring. For stories and photos about our sailing adventures, please visit Sailing.
Rising early, we shuttled to the airport for our flight from Paris to Madrid which will complete our land tours for this spring. For stories and photos about our sailing adventures, please visit Sailing.