Above: Spring on Kalamata
2010 Diaries
We wintered in Messolonghi, Greece, leaving in the spring to sail the Greek islands and mainland. The sad moment was the death of my dad in January, and the highlight was having my 83-year-old mom aboard and sailing to some of the Greek islands with her. We ended 2010 with a land trip adventure of a lifetime touring Syria, Jordan, and Israel.
We wintered in Messolonghi, Greece, leaving in the spring to sail the Greek islands and mainland. The sad moment was the death of my dad in January, and the highlight was having my 83-year-old mom aboard and sailing to some of the Greek islands with her. We ended 2010 with a land trip adventure of a lifetime touring Syria, Jordan, and Israel.
Canada
January 1, 2010 -- Christmas in Carrot River with Brit, Kris, Nolan, Torri, and Kolton. We woke to -40 degree weather in Carrot River, and by afternoon it rose to -28 we ventured outside. Daisy, their patrol dog had sniffed out a coyote den on the property. Saskatchewan has a $20 bounty on them which sounds like the Wild Wild West, but we're told, "You’re not allowed to earn more than $50,000 a year". That would be 2,500 shot coyotes! Following six days in Carrot River, we set off on the 9 1/2-hour drive to Calgary and our grand toddlers Hailey and Dex. Temperatures there are hovering around zero.
January 15 -- Con hung 8-month-old Hailey's jolly jumper in their living room and she laughed so hardy in it, we had to take her out to calm her down. She's so happy and laughs loudly at everything. Her laugh is like her mom's deep and throaty.
January 20 -- We said our "good bye's" to family and friends in Alberta after an awesome month together and flew to Victoria to share precious moments with mom and dad. We were anxious to get there as dad's health was failing quickly. Mom is a true angel on earth, providing endless love and care for him. He's in a lot of pain and bravely carries on expressing enormous love to everyone. The cancer is eating him alive and breathing is done through tubes as the COPD is attacking viciously.
January 25 -- Dad called Con and me to his side to express his wish to end his days on earth. In a generous gesture (just like him) he asked our permission to go. It was a tender moment for us all as we expressed our love for each other. Dad was admitted to the Brentwood Bay Hospital Friday to live out his last days in the Palliative Care unit. Morphine is being administered directly to try to keep him as comfortable as possible. We all pray that his beautiful vibrant soul can lift out of his aging painful body. He is filled with love and kind words for everyone. His greatest wish is that the doctor could take him out of this world. Con, mom and I take turns staying with him throughout the day. Mom's sad and misses him already. She walks around the house folding and refolding his clothes with such tenderness. Con spends many hours at dad's side, holding his hand or reading quietly beside him. At times, tears roll down my cheeks but I let them fall as it releases the pain from my chest. I cry for the passing of my beautiful father and I cry that he has to leave this world this way.
February 20 -- We've been reminded about the precious gift of life. My dad passed away peacefully January 28, 2010 at the age of 84. There were a number of diseases trying to get the best of him for the last few years and after a fierce battle for his health, lung cancer won. Mom was phenomenal, extraordinary truly, providing 24-hour palliative care for dad at home, gladly putting her life on hold to give him every comfort possible. In her words, "I LOVED caring for Wilfie." We had a celebration of his life February 4th, just as he'd wanted, at the Glen Meadows Golf Course club house, where he was a life-time member. Six days later, I received word that Clive Moore, our long-time friend died when infection moved into his body after a successful operation. I flew back to Calgary to attend his memorial February 19th. This sad time in our lives leaves us reflecting the joys of living life fully, fulfilling our goals, laughing and loving it -- all its precious moments.
February 22 -- I've returned to Victoria, to Con and mom, filled with wonderful memories of our times together (Clive & Janet) playing Name That Tune, fun dinners together, dancing up a storm at house parties and so many memories that will always live in my heart.
January 1, 2010 -- Christmas in Carrot River with Brit, Kris, Nolan, Torri, and Kolton. We woke to -40 degree weather in Carrot River, and by afternoon it rose to -28 we ventured outside. Daisy, their patrol dog had sniffed out a coyote den on the property. Saskatchewan has a $20 bounty on them which sounds like the Wild Wild West, but we're told, "You’re not allowed to earn more than $50,000 a year". That would be 2,500 shot coyotes! Following six days in Carrot River, we set off on the 9 1/2-hour drive to Calgary and our grand toddlers Hailey and Dex. Temperatures there are hovering around zero.
January 15 -- Con hung 8-month-old Hailey's jolly jumper in their living room and she laughed so hardy in it, we had to take her out to calm her down. She's so happy and laughs loudly at everything. Her laugh is like her mom's deep and throaty.
January 20 -- We said our "good bye's" to family and friends in Alberta after an awesome month together and flew to Victoria to share precious moments with mom and dad. We were anxious to get there as dad's health was failing quickly. Mom is a true angel on earth, providing endless love and care for him. He's in a lot of pain and bravely carries on expressing enormous love to everyone. The cancer is eating him alive and breathing is done through tubes as the COPD is attacking viciously.
January 25 -- Dad called Con and me to his side to express his wish to end his days on earth. In a generous gesture (just like him) he asked our permission to go. It was a tender moment for us all as we expressed our love for each other. Dad was admitted to the Brentwood Bay Hospital Friday to live out his last days in the Palliative Care unit. Morphine is being administered directly to try to keep him as comfortable as possible. We all pray that his beautiful vibrant soul can lift out of his aging painful body. He is filled with love and kind words for everyone. His greatest wish is that the doctor could take him out of this world. Con, mom and I take turns staying with him throughout the day. Mom's sad and misses him already. She walks around the house folding and refolding his clothes with such tenderness. Con spends many hours at dad's side, holding his hand or reading quietly beside him. At times, tears roll down my cheeks but I let them fall as it releases the pain from my chest. I cry for the passing of my beautiful father and I cry that he has to leave this world this way.
February 20 -- We've been reminded about the precious gift of life. My dad passed away peacefully January 28, 2010 at the age of 84. There were a number of diseases trying to get the best of him for the last few years and after a fierce battle for his health, lung cancer won. Mom was phenomenal, extraordinary truly, providing 24-hour palliative care for dad at home, gladly putting her life on hold to give him every comfort possible. In her words, "I LOVED caring for Wilfie." We had a celebration of his life February 4th, just as he'd wanted, at the Glen Meadows Golf Course club house, where he was a life-time member. Six days later, I received word that Clive Moore, our long-time friend died when infection moved into his body after a successful operation. I flew back to Calgary to attend his memorial February 19th. This sad time in our lives leaves us reflecting the joys of living life fully, fulfilling our goals, laughing and loving it -- all its precious moments.
February 22 -- I've returned to Victoria, to Con and mom, filled with wonderful memories of our times together (Clive & Janet) playing Name That Tune, fun dinners together, dancing up a storm at house parties and so many memories that will always live in my heart.
BACK ON THE BOAT
March 4 -- Back aboard our condo on water following three months of suitcase living in The Netherlands and Canada feels good, but a deep sorrow cuts into my soul losing my dad and good friend Clive. It was also a reminder to love every moment as "life" is a gift.
The taxi stopped in front of our boat in the Messolonghi marina. I waited on the concrete with our heavy bags while Con traversed from our neighbour's boat onto ours. He disappeared under the tarp and a moment later the gang plank was lowered to the concrete. Con balanced across the gang plank with our heaviest bag nearly losing it overboard, but with luck, we rescued it and for the second try, secured a safety line before walking the plank. It appears the security guard had turned off our power leaving our batteries dangerously low. While Big Sky was charging, we recharged, sleeping nearly 11 hours. Waking moments before siesta, we swiftly walked into town for supplies and to collect Con's bike which had been in the repair shop.
March 7 -- It's been raining in Messolonghi which seems to match my mood as I grieve the loss of my dear dad and the void sits heavy in my belly. Spring weather has been cool, with white caps making their way through the lagoon to the marina. Big Sky was rocking while gusts of 52 NM blow (96 KPH) at 4 am sounding like a freight train. The Patras marina across the gulf sustained greater damage with higher wind speeds and the boats in their cradles fell like dominos. Temperatures on the boat are downright nasty -- 15 degrees inside -- and that's with the electric heaters going day and night.
March 10 -- With the wind finally easing Janis, the marina owner and his team lifted a small sailboat OVER BIG SKY’s STERN and lowered it into the water beside us. One sneeze by the crane operator and the boat would have been in our cockpit! The crane parked directly in front of us, lifted another small sailboat and it swung -- again -- dangerously close to Big Sky. Janis put his full weight on the bow line pulling it a hair away from a collision with our back stays. At one point, the airborne sailboat keel nearly hit the concrete. That was enough for us to cancel our plans to have Big Sky lifted there. Friends currently living aboard on the hard are on a continual heel in the stands!
March 18 -- The sailing season has arrived, as we get ready for departure tomorrow. Messolonghi has been a cozy place to snuggle up for the winter. Not a tourist town. You can't even buy a post card there. With warm sunshine, we washed the Sahara Desert off Big Sky. We'll sail south to the tip, across to Crete, and wander through the Cyclades and Dodecanese Islands in the Aegean until June where we plan to tuck into a marina on the Peloponnese south of Athens near the knuckle of the top finger.
March 4 -- Back aboard our condo on water following three months of suitcase living in The Netherlands and Canada feels good, but a deep sorrow cuts into my soul losing my dad and good friend Clive. It was also a reminder to love every moment as "life" is a gift.
The taxi stopped in front of our boat in the Messolonghi marina. I waited on the concrete with our heavy bags while Con traversed from our neighbour's boat onto ours. He disappeared under the tarp and a moment later the gang plank was lowered to the concrete. Con balanced across the gang plank with our heaviest bag nearly losing it overboard, but with luck, we rescued it and for the second try, secured a safety line before walking the plank. It appears the security guard had turned off our power leaving our batteries dangerously low. While Big Sky was charging, we recharged, sleeping nearly 11 hours. Waking moments before siesta, we swiftly walked into town for supplies and to collect Con's bike which had been in the repair shop.
March 7 -- It's been raining in Messolonghi which seems to match my mood as I grieve the loss of my dear dad and the void sits heavy in my belly. Spring weather has been cool, with white caps making their way through the lagoon to the marina. Big Sky was rocking while gusts of 52 NM blow (96 KPH) at 4 am sounding like a freight train. The Patras marina across the gulf sustained greater damage with higher wind speeds and the boats in their cradles fell like dominos. Temperatures on the boat are downright nasty -- 15 degrees inside -- and that's with the electric heaters going day and night.
March 10 -- With the wind finally easing Janis, the marina owner and his team lifted a small sailboat OVER BIG SKY’s STERN and lowered it into the water beside us. One sneeze by the crane operator and the boat would have been in our cockpit! The crane parked directly in front of us, lifted another small sailboat and it swung -- again -- dangerously close to Big Sky. Janis put his full weight on the bow line pulling it a hair away from a collision with our back stays. At one point, the airborne sailboat keel nearly hit the concrete. That was enough for us to cancel our plans to have Big Sky lifted there. Friends currently living aboard on the hard are on a continual heel in the stands!
March 18 -- The sailing season has arrived, as we get ready for departure tomorrow. Messolonghi has been a cozy place to snuggle up for the winter. Not a tourist town. You can't even buy a post card there. With warm sunshine, we washed the Sahara Desert off Big Sky. We'll sail south to the tip, across to Crete, and wander through the Cyclades and Dodecanese Islands in the Aegean until June where we plan to tuck into a marina on the Peloponnese south of Athens near the knuckle of the top finger.
Sailing Away
March 19 – Motoring out of Messolonghi in sunshine felt good, with temperatures in mid 20's and a nice wind to Kiliny.
March 20 -- On the first day of spring we sailed to Katakolon, a tourist town, totally reliant on the ferry's arriving with people wanting to visit Mt. Olympus. In mythology, the ancient Greeks believed the mountain was home of the gods, presided over by Zeus. From Big Sky, docked at the quay, we can see the blue water, blue sky, a half dozen yellow and pink two-story buildings with long narrow blue shuddered windows, and a hill of lush green trees. Sitting in the sunshine at the water front sipping ice teas, we chatted with two Greek's also visiting the area from Athens. They worry about the downfall of the Greek economy. We debated life-styles, and they strategized how they could retire before the country goes bankrupt. They thought life on a boat was a good choice. Exhausted from the debate, we returned to Big Sky.
March 21 -- On our lazy sail we spotted a huge sea turtle and one lone dolphin. The latter was much more social. He visited and talked with us for about five minutes.
March 23 -- Another day of favourable winds, we left Katakolon for Kiparissia, no other sail boats around, either on the Ionian or in the harbours. After docking, we walked into an unassuming town and sensed excitement. One coffee bar had a large screen playing the local football (soccer) game. The young people in the crowd were filled with energy supporting the green team. We supported the red team only because we recognized the goalie from the World Cup and had him, "Big Hands". When the green team scored, the town let off fireworks. The mood changed considerably when the red team scored and eventually won. Con hooted in high spirits realizing he was the only one. We left quietly for the most popular restaurant in town, the Gyro Pit. For 2 euro you get a generous amount of meat and fixin's with french fries shoved inside. We left the next day for Pylos on a beautiful sail, entering a well-sheltered bay through a rocky opening and tied against a rusty barge (the only available spot).
March 27 -- The open air market was well worth the 3 km bike ride. Tables were filled with crates which were packed with recently hatched baby chicks. They will be given to the local children as an "Easter present", but one man told us, "They're not expected to live much passed Easter ." A liter of six adorable Rottweilers puppies were being given away free. Beside the puppies a large rooster was tied by the leg to a cage stuffed with rabbits. Fresh produce was plentiful: meat, cheese, fresh fruits and vegetables. A popular items going fast were the goat's balls, feet, and intestines. Leaving the market an hour later, two puppies remained.
March 19 – Motoring out of Messolonghi in sunshine felt good, with temperatures in mid 20's and a nice wind to Kiliny.
March 20 -- On the first day of spring we sailed to Katakolon, a tourist town, totally reliant on the ferry's arriving with people wanting to visit Mt. Olympus. In mythology, the ancient Greeks believed the mountain was home of the gods, presided over by Zeus. From Big Sky, docked at the quay, we can see the blue water, blue sky, a half dozen yellow and pink two-story buildings with long narrow blue shuddered windows, and a hill of lush green trees. Sitting in the sunshine at the water front sipping ice teas, we chatted with two Greek's also visiting the area from Athens. They worry about the downfall of the Greek economy. We debated life-styles, and they strategized how they could retire before the country goes bankrupt. They thought life on a boat was a good choice. Exhausted from the debate, we returned to Big Sky.
March 21 -- On our lazy sail we spotted a huge sea turtle and one lone dolphin. The latter was much more social. He visited and talked with us for about five minutes.
March 23 -- Another day of favourable winds, we left Katakolon for Kiparissia, no other sail boats around, either on the Ionian or in the harbours. After docking, we walked into an unassuming town and sensed excitement. One coffee bar had a large screen playing the local football (soccer) game. The young people in the crowd were filled with energy supporting the green team. We supported the red team only because we recognized the goalie from the World Cup and had him, "Big Hands". When the green team scored, the town let off fireworks. The mood changed considerably when the red team scored and eventually won. Con hooted in high spirits realizing he was the only one. We left quietly for the most popular restaurant in town, the Gyro Pit. For 2 euro you get a generous amount of meat and fixin's with french fries shoved inside. We left the next day for Pylos on a beautiful sail, entering a well-sheltered bay through a rocky opening and tied against a rusty barge (the only available spot).
March 27 -- The open air market was well worth the 3 km bike ride. Tables were filled with crates which were packed with recently hatched baby chicks. They will be given to the local children as an "Easter present", but one man told us, "They're not expected to live much passed Easter ." A liter of six adorable Rottweilers puppies were being given away free. Beside the puppies a large rooster was tied by the leg to a cage stuffed with rabbits. Fresh produce was plentiful: meat, cheese, fresh fruits and vegetables. A popular items going fast were the goat's balls, feet, and intestines. Leaving the market an hour later, two puppies remained.
March 28 -- Kalamata to Sparta We rented a car for three days and invited live-aboard friends Roger and Pam to join us for a drive from Kalamata to Sparta across the mountains. The countryside was exploding in wild flowers. We visited the ancient 700-year-old Byzantine town of Mystrais, a stunning site, occupied by nuns. Day two with a car, the four of us toured Ancient Messina and drove up, up, up, and when we couldn't drive any more, we got out and hiked to the top of the world on foot. An abandoned ancient monastery was nearly buried in wild flowers. It was an incredible day. We climbed even further, to the very top of the Byzantine fortress. Our last day with the car, Con and I toured the southern Peloponnese winding along the glorious coast line, climbing high into the mountains, and back down into the deep gorges. By late afternoon, we reached the top of a mountain anticipating a town on the other side, but the road ended. Our gas tank was nearly empty. We spotted four locals in the sparse countryside and asked for a petro station. They shook their heads indicating that they use donkeys. We showed them our map asking for directions to the nearest petro but none of them were able to read a map. We coasted down the beautiful mountain on fumes finding a station and putting a few drops in the tank. The car is to be returned empty.
EASTER in Kalamata
April 2 -- In a wild and crazy Good Friday evening celebration, hundreds spilled out of the Greek Orthodox Church when the bells went off and they paraded a cardboard Jesus in a flower-filled casket down the waterfront, and through the town, passing effigies of Judas. Just before Jesus (in the casket) arrived, the fireworks shot out of the bushes and streets and then Judas was set on fire. It seems that the Greek Orthodox Church is the only church we know of, that doesn't beat around the bush and squarely lays the blame for Jesus' crucifixion on Judas' shoulders and there's nothing subtle about it. Judas' effigies have been hanging on every street corner for a week, and torched at 9 pm by the priest.
April 5 -- While the Greek Orthodox both mourn Jesus' death and feast on rotisserie lamb. Full lambs were tied onto the rotisserie and roasted for hours. Early afternoon, families gather in patios, yards, or in the street playing Greek music and young and old dance the Greek dance. DA da, da-da da-da da-da DA da, da-da da-da.. A sweet man about 100 stood to dance and his son joined him (mostly ready to catch him if he fell). The old man could barely move his feet, and with arms out at his sides, he slowly bent over, bringing one arm and sometimes both arms down to sweep the ground with the front of his fingers and come back up, then slowly he'd raise his foot and sweep his heel with his right arm. The family of about 10 people clapped to the music and cheered the old guy. The history that man could share.
EASTER in Kalamata
April 2 -- In a wild and crazy Good Friday evening celebration, hundreds spilled out of the Greek Orthodox Church when the bells went off and they paraded a cardboard Jesus in a flower-filled casket down the waterfront, and through the town, passing effigies of Judas. Just before Jesus (in the casket) arrived, the fireworks shot out of the bushes and streets and then Judas was set on fire. It seems that the Greek Orthodox Church is the only church we know of, that doesn't beat around the bush and squarely lays the blame for Jesus' crucifixion on Judas' shoulders and there's nothing subtle about it. Judas' effigies have been hanging on every street corner for a week, and torched at 9 pm by the priest.
April 5 -- While the Greek Orthodox both mourn Jesus' death and feast on rotisserie lamb. Full lambs were tied onto the rotisserie and roasted for hours. Early afternoon, families gather in patios, yards, or in the street playing Greek music and young and old dance the Greek dance. DA da, da-da da-da da-da DA da, da-da da-da.. A sweet man about 100 stood to dance and his son joined him (mostly ready to catch him if he fell). The old man could barely move his feet, and with arms out at his sides, he slowly bent over, bringing one arm and sometimes both arms down to sweep the ground with the front of his fingers and come back up, then slowly he'd raise his foot and sweep his heel with his right arm. The family of about 10 people clapped to the music and cheered the old guy. The history that man could share.
Easter in Kalamata
CRETE
April 11 -- The waters between the bottom of the Peloponnese and Crete are known for their unpredictability, with five different low pressure systems going through it. We had been studying the various weather websites for the past week and realized that finding a weather window for a three-day daylight trip would be near impossible. Safe anchorages and harbours are few and far between, each one having its own drawbacks. So, when we spotted decent winds for an overnight sail, we latched onto the opportunity. To maximize the promised winds, we left at noon for the 22-24 hour trip. The winds were correct and we averaged over 6.5 knots with a minimal time on the engine. Dodging freighters in the dark at the south end of the Peloponnese was interesting. In the dark, two hours out of our destination we found ourselves "heavily over canvased" as Con says (too much sail) in 30 knot winds (much more than predicted). Sea sickness was playing me hard, but I rose to the occasion, helping Con reef the sails. Turning Big Sky into the wind takes the pressure off the sail, caused incredible noise with the sails flapping and waves coming over the bow. We no sooner managed that task and the winds dropped off completely, but not the massive three-meter waves.
April 12-14 -- Tied at the quay in the Khania harbour, Crete a beautiful Venetian harbour built in the 1200's, we're surrounded by aquamarine waters and a beautiful old town. Big Sky is moored on the northwest end of Crete. In a rental we drove from north to the Libyan Sea in the south and west, most of the time dodging goats, who run around or lay around the secondary roads by the hundreds. We explored the steep mountains and gorges, rocky cliffs, winding our way around the paved and path-like roads. Every other curve there was a church! At the end of the day, we stopped at the Monastery Agia Triada of Jagarolou and discovered that the monks were busy making wine, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, hand creams, soaps, and jewelry.
April 15 -- Tourists were arriving in Crete, but not sailboats yet. When we started touring Khania a few days ago there were less than a dozen tourists. Now, just a few days later, the restaurants and stores are full. That's good news for the Greek economy. Tomorrow, we'll set sail to Rethimno, another pretty northern Crete town with a Venetian built harbour. Weather should be good and helpful winds.
April 16 -- Tied in a marina in Rethimno's large Venetian harbor surrounded by 70s vintage apartments. Getting here was wild, despite forecasts! It started out comfy with warm sunshine, gentle breezes and sea, except when the Greek Navy Destroyer passed us going 30 knots so very close creating enormous waves to crash into Big Sky. When the sea calmed again, we picnicked in the cockpit sailing under "delicious winds" as Con calls them, 10-15 knots, then all hell broke lose. The wind died, an eerie silence surrounded us, and then south winds attacked from nowhere, spinning Big Sky in a near circle and everything on our port side flew starboard, then back to port. Big Sky began galloping in the high waves that accompanied the winds as we were reaching 7 knot speeds. We reefed the sails, set ourselves back on course, and took green water over the pilot house and the occasional wave spray into the cockpit. Big Sky heeled over so far to port nearly putting the rail in the water! Lying flat on the pilot house couches to keep the sea sickness at bay, I heard sloshing in the galley (kitchen). With difficulty walking inside, holding tight to the inside hand rails, I saw water coming up the sink and splashing over the counter tops. I bailed water from one sink to the other, and Con came below to close the sea cock, located in an awkward place, under the carpet and floor boards in the bunk room. It was a new discovery! We'd never closed the kitchen sink in all our travels despite other nasty seas.
April 18 -- Church bells called us awake at 7 am. We rose lazily and spent the day washing, cleaning and pretty much putzing around the boat. Greek Television offers up a few English language shows: a movie most nights, reruns of House, or the occasional football (soccer) game.
April 20-21 -- Crete is an interesting place, the most southerly of the Greek islands, it stretches 250 KM east to west. The goats have carved paths up and down the rugged coasts, mountains and ravines, through the gorges, and today, those paths are a hiker’s paradise. We've put on many miles in the rented cars witnessing the carved landscapes, beaches, ruins, and all the wonders that make this island so beautiful. Plakias South of Rethimno the land is incredibly fertile. Every square inch was covered in olive trees, grape vines, or orange trees. We stopped for lunch in a small town with just a smattering of white-washed houses.
April 22-23 -- Well, last night was our first anchorage of the year. We loved it! Our Finnish friends (Ari and Tarja -- also living aboard a Nauticat boat) left Rethimno at the same time and we both motored 37 NM east and dropped our anchors near each other in the bay. The only sound in the night was the water gently lapping up on the rocks. Still no wind this morning, so following breakfast (latte and toast) made compliments of the generator, we set our course to Spinalonga Lagoon for another anchorage.
Anchored behind the Spinalonga island was glorious. We rowed over to the island and spent the day hiking. Big Sky is in the background, and Little Sky (as Con calls our dingy) in the foreground. Like most of the locations in Crete, it was occupied by the Venetians in 1200 for 500 years, then by the Turks in 1700. The first half of the 1900's, this island was a Leper Colony until modern medicine began treating the disease. Sadly, the Leper cemetery is without headstones or identification. The book, "The Island" is an excellent fictional book about the island when it was used to banish Lepers.
April 27 -- We have the United Nations here at the Agos Nikolaos Marina (well not really the UN, but there are the flags we've spotted on the boats: French, British, American, Dutch, German, Polish, Swedish, and one Canadian boat. Wind continues to blow so we're staying put. Meanwhile, we watched "Greek Idol" last night on TV. It was pretty bad.
April 11 -- The waters between the bottom of the Peloponnese and Crete are known for their unpredictability, with five different low pressure systems going through it. We had been studying the various weather websites for the past week and realized that finding a weather window for a three-day daylight trip would be near impossible. Safe anchorages and harbours are few and far between, each one having its own drawbacks. So, when we spotted decent winds for an overnight sail, we latched onto the opportunity. To maximize the promised winds, we left at noon for the 22-24 hour trip. The winds were correct and we averaged over 6.5 knots with a minimal time on the engine. Dodging freighters in the dark at the south end of the Peloponnese was interesting. In the dark, two hours out of our destination we found ourselves "heavily over canvased" as Con says (too much sail) in 30 knot winds (much more than predicted). Sea sickness was playing me hard, but I rose to the occasion, helping Con reef the sails. Turning Big Sky into the wind takes the pressure off the sail, caused incredible noise with the sails flapping and waves coming over the bow. We no sooner managed that task and the winds dropped off completely, but not the massive three-meter waves.
April 12-14 -- Tied at the quay in the Khania harbour, Crete a beautiful Venetian harbour built in the 1200's, we're surrounded by aquamarine waters and a beautiful old town. Big Sky is moored on the northwest end of Crete. In a rental we drove from north to the Libyan Sea in the south and west, most of the time dodging goats, who run around or lay around the secondary roads by the hundreds. We explored the steep mountains and gorges, rocky cliffs, winding our way around the paved and path-like roads. Every other curve there was a church! At the end of the day, we stopped at the Monastery Agia Triada of Jagarolou and discovered that the monks were busy making wine, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, hand creams, soaps, and jewelry.
April 15 -- Tourists were arriving in Crete, but not sailboats yet. When we started touring Khania a few days ago there were less than a dozen tourists. Now, just a few days later, the restaurants and stores are full. That's good news for the Greek economy. Tomorrow, we'll set sail to Rethimno, another pretty northern Crete town with a Venetian built harbour. Weather should be good and helpful winds.
April 16 -- Tied in a marina in Rethimno's large Venetian harbor surrounded by 70s vintage apartments. Getting here was wild, despite forecasts! It started out comfy with warm sunshine, gentle breezes and sea, except when the Greek Navy Destroyer passed us going 30 knots so very close creating enormous waves to crash into Big Sky. When the sea calmed again, we picnicked in the cockpit sailing under "delicious winds" as Con calls them, 10-15 knots, then all hell broke lose. The wind died, an eerie silence surrounded us, and then south winds attacked from nowhere, spinning Big Sky in a near circle and everything on our port side flew starboard, then back to port. Big Sky began galloping in the high waves that accompanied the winds as we were reaching 7 knot speeds. We reefed the sails, set ourselves back on course, and took green water over the pilot house and the occasional wave spray into the cockpit. Big Sky heeled over so far to port nearly putting the rail in the water! Lying flat on the pilot house couches to keep the sea sickness at bay, I heard sloshing in the galley (kitchen). With difficulty walking inside, holding tight to the inside hand rails, I saw water coming up the sink and splashing over the counter tops. I bailed water from one sink to the other, and Con came below to close the sea cock, located in an awkward place, under the carpet and floor boards in the bunk room. It was a new discovery! We'd never closed the kitchen sink in all our travels despite other nasty seas.
April 18 -- Church bells called us awake at 7 am. We rose lazily and spent the day washing, cleaning and pretty much putzing around the boat. Greek Television offers up a few English language shows: a movie most nights, reruns of House, or the occasional football (soccer) game.
April 20-21 -- Crete is an interesting place, the most southerly of the Greek islands, it stretches 250 KM east to west. The goats have carved paths up and down the rugged coasts, mountains and ravines, through the gorges, and today, those paths are a hiker’s paradise. We've put on many miles in the rented cars witnessing the carved landscapes, beaches, ruins, and all the wonders that make this island so beautiful. Plakias South of Rethimno the land is incredibly fertile. Every square inch was covered in olive trees, grape vines, or orange trees. We stopped for lunch in a small town with just a smattering of white-washed houses.
April 22-23 -- Well, last night was our first anchorage of the year. We loved it! Our Finnish friends (Ari and Tarja -- also living aboard a Nauticat boat) left Rethimno at the same time and we both motored 37 NM east and dropped our anchors near each other in the bay. The only sound in the night was the water gently lapping up on the rocks. Still no wind this morning, so following breakfast (latte and toast) made compliments of the generator, we set our course to Spinalonga Lagoon for another anchorage.
Anchored behind the Spinalonga island was glorious. We rowed over to the island and spent the day hiking. Big Sky is in the background, and Little Sky (as Con calls our dingy) in the foreground. Like most of the locations in Crete, it was occupied by the Venetians in 1200 for 500 years, then by the Turks in 1700. The first half of the 1900's, this island was a Leper Colony until modern medicine began treating the disease. Sadly, the Leper cemetery is without headstones or identification. The book, "The Island" is an excellent fictional book about the island when it was used to banish Lepers.
April 27 -- We have the United Nations here at the Agos Nikolaos Marina (well not really the UN, but there are the flags we've spotted on the boats: French, British, American, Dutch, German, Polish, Swedish, and one Canadian boat. Wind continues to blow so we're staying put. Meanwhile, we watched "Greek Idol" last night on TV. It was pretty bad.
Spinalonga Island
Eastern Crete
April 28 -- The island of Crete is located where three continents meet: Asia, Europe and Africa. Agos Nikolaos is a crossroads of influences, with history dating to Minoan times 2100 - 1550 BC. A ship wreck was discovered in the north-east of Agos Nikolaos dating back to 2000 BC -- one of the oldest shipwrecks discovered.
April 30 -- We're in the Bay of Mirabello, located on the eastern end of Crete's north coast, once believed to be the centre of the earth, because the ruins of four civilizations being uncovered. Nowhere else on earth has such a density of civilizations been found. The entire bay was at one time the centre of commerce and shipping. Excavated ruins on the north side of the island believed to be pottery and other artifacts are from the island of Santorini. When the volcano erupted and the great tsunami changed the Mediterranean landscape, it's believed this was the time of the Lost Continent of Atlantis.
We drove to a village high up in the mountain, Kritsa, with one road in and one road out. It's the oldest continuously inhabited village, dating back a few thousand years BC.
Tomorrow we sail toward Sitia and then north to the islands east of Crete. The road winds through the town which is about 500 meters long (the town). The fruit and veggie truck arrived and locals came out to shop. Crete like all of the countries we've visited in the Mediterranean have their share of castles, ancient ruins, temples, churches, monasteries, mosques... There's so much to see and so much beauty. We visited the palace at Knosos and Phaestos that had been excavated by archeologists.
May 5 -- Greece is warming up. We're now perched on the north east end of Crete, ready to sail into the Greek Dodecanese Islands. A civil servants strike to protest the cuts shows us how frustrated the Greek people are with their country on the verge of bankruptcy. In the morning, we sailed to Kasos with a lookout for a 16-meter sailboat "Amelia", reported in distress in the vicinity we were sailing but didn't see it. Entering Limin Fry small sleepy village harbor, we took a few photos and carried on to the bay to drop anchor and spotted "Amelia" just leaving. It appears the search is over. We put on flippers and mask and played in the 23-degree blue waters. We walked further into the town and ordered a beer, red wine, and a plate of peanuts for a total of 2 euro. Leaving for Tristoma, two Bottle-nose dolphins joined us at the bow. We passed Olympus, a town spilling down a bleak ridge 600 meters above the water. Because it's isolated, it has a strange mix of medieval and modern with mules as the transportation. The anchorage in Tristoma was perfect protection. You can't see the opening from the sea but following the coordinates we entered through a small opening snaking a few times and then dropping anchor in the 300 meter wide bay. An abandoned village sits at one end of the bay.
May 12 -- We arrived in the pretty town of Symi where chaos rules in the harbor as boat after boat fouls their anchors on each other. The people (as all Greek people) are so friendly. We asked the marinara where the best pizza is in town. He said, "Go to Napoli and tell them Nicolas sent you." We did. When our bill came, he brought us crème brullee and blanc manger with sour cherries in a thick not-too-sweet sauce. "Thanks for coming."
May 14 -- Hailey turns one today. Happy birthday Hailey, and daddy Mike who shares his birthday on the same day.
May 15 -- We've now visited 13 of the 15 islands that make up the Dodecanese. These are the southern islands scattered along the Turkish coast recognized by the Mediterranean pastel colours in their architecture. They were the last territories incorporated into their country. They've been invaded by so many civilizations over the centuries, including Mussolini in 1948.
May 19 -- We remember Larry Radu who would have been 58 today. In Kos, a little piece of Greek paradise, the bougainvillea is nearly burying the 16th century Castle of Knights. The Greek are expressing their discontent again with their economy crumbling under poor government. As the country limps, it's number one industry is drying up -- tourism. Media seems to have instilled fear in people's minds about travel here, but our observations are peaceful, friendly, and accommodating people.
May 21 -- As soon as we tossed off the lines and exited the Kos marina strong winds and sheets of rain hit us but blew us all the way to Kalimnos. We dropped anchor 100 meters in front of the pretty town with lightning zapping around us. The next day we set off to the gorgeous butterfly-shaped island of Astipalia.
May 24 -- By 5:30 am we abandoned all hope of further sleep with Big Sky rocking and jolting at anchor in the bay on an island just east of Santorini (the centre of the Atlantis Kingdom). Historians say a catastrophic volcanic eruption, in 1400 BC and again in 236 BC, the largest the Earth has been able to estimate (five times more powerful than Krakatoa) separated the waters. Attempting to get into Santorini we were grounded in 1.6 meters (our draft 2.1). Con rocked Big Sky back and forth with the throttle and bow thruster freeing us as we exited. We circled the pretty island, motoring over the crater where our depth sounder was so deep it couldn't give us a reading.
April 28 -- The island of Crete is located where three continents meet: Asia, Europe and Africa. Agos Nikolaos is a crossroads of influences, with history dating to Minoan times 2100 - 1550 BC. A ship wreck was discovered in the north-east of Agos Nikolaos dating back to 2000 BC -- one of the oldest shipwrecks discovered.
April 30 -- We're in the Bay of Mirabello, located on the eastern end of Crete's north coast, once believed to be the centre of the earth, because the ruins of four civilizations being uncovered. Nowhere else on earth has such a density of civilizations been found. The entire bay was at one time the centre of commerce and shipping. Excavated ruins on the north side of the island believed to be pottery and other artifacts are from the island of Santorini. When the volcano erupted and the great tsunami changed the Mediterranean landscape, it's believed this was the time of the Lost Continent of Atlantis.
We drove to a village high up in the mountain, Kritsa, with one road in and one road out. It's the oldest continuously inhabited village, dating back a few thousand years BC.
Tomorrow we sail toward Sitia and then north to the islands east of Crete. The road winds through the town which is about 500 meters long (the town). The fruit and veggie truck arrived and locals came out to shop. Crete like all of the countries we've visited in the Mediterranean have their share of castles, ancient ruins, temples, churches, monasteries, mosques... There's so much to see and so much beauty. We visited the palace at Knosos and Phaestos that had been excavated by archeologists.
May 5 -- Greece is warming up. We're now perched on the north east end of Crete, ready to sail into the Greek Dodecanese Islands. A civil servants strike to protest the cuts shows us how frustrated the Greek people are with their country on the verge of bankruptcy. In the morning, we sailed to Kasos with a lookout for a 16-meter sailboat "Amelia", reported in distress in the vicinity we were sailing but didn't see it. Entering Limin Fry small sleepy village harbor, we took a few photos and carried on to the bay to drop anchor and spotted "Amelia" just leaving. It appears the search is over. We put on flippers and mask and played in the 23-degree blue waters. We walked further into the town and ordered a beer, red wine, and a plate of peanuts for a total of 2 euro. Leaving for Tristoma, two Bottle-nose dolphins joined us at the bow. We passed Olympus, a town spilling down a bleak ridge 600 meters above the water. Because it's isolated, it has a strange mix of medieval and modern with mules as the transportation. The anchorage in Tristoma was perfect protection. You can't see the opening from the sea but following the coordinates we entered through a small opening snaking a few times and then dropping anchor in the 300 meter wide bay. An abandoned village sits at one end of the bay.
May 12 -- We arrived in the pretty town of Symi where chaos rules in the harbor as boat after boat fouls their anchors on each other. The people (as all Greek people) are so friendly. We asked the marinara where the best pizza is in town. He said, "Go to Napoli and tell them Nicolas sent you." We did. When our bill came, he brought us crème brullee and blanc manger with sour cherries in a thick not-too-sweet sauce. "Thanks for coming."
May 14 -- Hailey turns one today. Happy birthday Hailey, and daddy Mike who shares his birthday on the same day.
May 15 -- We've now visited 13 of the 15 islands that make up the Dodecanese. These are the southern islands scattered along the Turkish coast recognized by the Mediterranean pastel colours in their architecture. They were the last territories incorporated into their country. They've been invaded by so many civilizations over the centuries, including Mussolini in 1948.
May 19 -- We remember Larry Radu who would have been 58 today. In Kos, a little piece of Greek paradise, the bougainvillea is nearly burying the 16th century Castle of Knights. The Greek are expressing their discontent again with their economy crumbling under poor government. As the country limps, it's number one industry is drying up -- tourism. Media seems to have instilled fear in people's minds about travel here, but our observations are peaceful, friendly, and accommodating people.
May 21 -- As soon as we tossed off the lines and exited the Kos marina strong winds and sheets of rain hit us but blew us all the way to Kalimnos. We dropped anchor 100 meters in front of the pretty town with lightning zapping around us. The next day we set off to the gorgeous butterfly-shaped island of Astipalia.
May 24 -- By 5:30 am we abandoned all hope of further sleep with Big Sky rocking and jolting at anchor in the bay on an island just east of Santorini (the centre of the Atlantis Kingdom). Historians say a catastrophic volcanic eruption, in 1400 BC and again in 236 BC, the largest the Earth has been able to estimate (five times more powerful than Krakatoa) separated the waters. Attempting to get into Santorini we were grounded in 1.6 meters (our draft 2.1). Con rocked Big Sky back and forth with the throttle and bow thruster freeing us as we exited. We circled the pretty island, motoring over the crater where our depth sounder was so deep it couldn't give us a reading.
Volcanic Cyclades Islands
May 29 -- We arrived on the volcanic island of Milos, the chalk island with so many pastel colours, cliffs, gulfs, hills, and gorges. Milos lies on the Eurasiatic Plate and 220 km from the collision boundary with the African Plate. The African plate is slipping under the Eurasiatic Plate at a speed of 2.5 cm per year. Milos is slowly sliding into the sea. We're heading to the hot springs today. Apparently there are places on Milos where the sand is so hot, it reaches 190 degrees F. We didn't find it thankfully. Dropping anchor twice today, to try out both beautiful beaches, we swam in 24.5 degree waters with beautiful white sand. White sand completely surrounds the bay and beaches. Snorkeling, I spotted a few white-coloured star-fish, and a squid. It was deathly quiet, not another soul around (except Con) and then I saw an enormous dark figure partially in the sand freezing me on the spot. Bravely I swam in closer realizing I'd eyeballed our anchor.
May 31 -- Reluctantly, we pulled up anchor from our private location in a large bay to visit the crater portion of the island of Milos. We arrived in the marina in Adamas, and plugging into electricity recharging our batteries.
June 2 -- We received word that a couple we’d met in Lagos, Portugal sailing with their daughters hit a submerged iceberg called a "growler" as did the Titanic and sank. The four were rescued off Cape Horn. See the attached story. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1278713/Mayday-How-growler-got-In-dramatic-words-pictures-couple-struck-iceberg-saved-Royal-Navy-tell-terrifying-ordeal.html
Rough night in Kimolos. Not finding good shelter, but with great skill, we tied to a concrete pier in a small fishing bay only later learning that that large ferries came in and out creating tremendous swells. Rounding the bay for the next night, we anchored in a bay in front of the most unusual village. People live in caves. The island's geology is heavily made up of chalk, in fact the name Kimolos means "chalk." It was once an important ancient civilization, but now a large part of it is submerged beneath the sea.
June 5 -- Beautiful weather has returned as we sail into one small village after another in the beautiful Greek Cyclades islands. On a glorious beam reach, we soared into the Serifos Bay from our anchorage on that island. The bay was deep, and Bruce (our bow anchor) wasn't holding in the sand and grass with the strong cross wind was blowing. Instead, we dropped the stern anchor and motored to the pier for a free stay with free internet and the view of a stunning chora (town) at the top of the mountain looming above us.
June 8 -- Even in paradise you have to tackle the calcium in the toilet hose. We pulled out the hose and dumped the white calcium into the sea. The worst part of the task is always getting the hose back onto the tight crevasses it belongs.
June 9 -- Dolphins came to chat at our bow on our way to the next anchorage, and Con asked them if they'd come back next week for a visit while Lorna is here with us.
May 29 -- We arrived on the volcanic island of Milos, the chalk island with so many pastel colours, cliffs, gulfs, hills, and gorges. Milos lies on the Eurasiatic Plate and 220 km from the collision boundary with the African Plate. The African plate is slipping under the Eurasiatic Plate at a speed of 2.5 cm per year. Milos is slowly sliding into the sea. We're heading to the hot springs today. Apparently there are places on Milos where the sand is so hot, it reaches 190 degrees F. We didn't find it thankfully. Dropping anchor twice today, to try out both beautiful beaches, we swam in 24.5 degree waters with beautiful white sand. White sand completely surrounds the bay and beaches. Snorkeling, I spotted a few white-coloured star-fish, and a squid. It was deathly quiet, not another soul around (except Con) and then I saw an enormous dark figure partially in the sand freezing me on the spot. Bravely I swam in closer realizing I'd eyeballed our anchor.
May 31 -- Reluctantly, we pulled up anchor from our private location in a large bay to visit the crater portion of the island of Milos. We arrived in the marina in Adamas, and plugging into electricity recharging our batteries.
June 2 -- We received word that a couple we’d met in Lagos, Portugal sailing with their daughters hit a submerged iceberg called a "growler" as did the Titanic and sank. The four were rescued off Cape Horn. See the attached story. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1278713/Mayday-How-growler-got-In-dramatic-words-pictures-couple-struck-iceberg-saved-Royal-Navy-tell-terrifying-ordeal.html
Rough night in Kimolos. Not finding good shelter, but with great skill, we tied to a concrete pier in a small fishing bay only later learning that that large ferries came in and out creating tremendous swells. Rounding the bay for the next night, we anchored in a bay in front of the most unusual village. People live in caves. The island's geology is heavily made up of chalk, in fact the name Kimolos means "chalk." It was once an important ancient civilization, but now a large part of it is submerged beneath the sea.
June 5 -- Beautiful weather has returned as we sail into one small village after another in the beautiful Greek Cyclades islands. On a glorious beam reach, we soared into the Serifos Bay from our anchorage on that island. The bay was deep, and Bruce (our bow anchor) wasn't holding in the sand and grass with the strong cross wind was blowing. Instead, we dropped the stern anchor and motored to the pier for a free stay with free internet and the view of a stunning chora (town) at the top of the mountain looming above us.
June 8 -- Even in paradise you have to tackle the calcium in the toilet hose. We pulled out the hose and dumped the white calcium into the sea. The worst part of the task is always getting the hose back onto the tight crevasses it belongs.
June 9 -- Dolphins came to chat at our bow on our way to the next anchorage, and Con asked them if they'd come back next week for a visit while Lorna is here with us.
Kimnos
One of the prettiest Greek islands we've visited: Serifos
You know you're in the Cyclades because the houses are painted white with blue doors and shutters.
You know you're in the Cyclades because the houses are painted white with blue doors and shutters.
Lorna Visits for a week
June 13 -- My jet-lagged sister-in-law landed in Athens and we drove straight to the Acropolis before bringing her aboard in Lavrion. The next day, we left the mainland for the island of Kea, anchored and rowed ashore for lunch AND for Con to watch the World Cup Football (soccer). It was deliciously hot, so Lorna and I rowed back to Big Sky to swim leaving Con in the restaurant. He flagged us down for his return trip to Big Sky. We visited the delightful town Batsi, on the island of Andros. While underway, we spotted slow moving dark creatures believing they were porpoises or small whales, and later dolphins visited, honouring Con's request that they return for Lorna. Batsi's harbour is delightful with quiet tavernas mixed in and around the fishing boats. Still no wind, and tremendous heat, we motored on toward the island of Tinos the next morning. We'd no sooner left the harbour and the black objects were swimming at the surface of the sea again. As we neared we saw possibly hundreds of them realizing when they leaped high out of the sea showing their sword-like noses that they were likely swordfish or marlins. Once again, dolphins visited and played at the bow for about 10 minutes. Setting sail, Big Sky lurched forward and Con called to Lorna who was sitting casually in the cockpit, "Hold on Lorna, we're going to heel."
Later she admitted she didn't know what "heel" meant, but she didn't worry since she knew how to swim.
The town of Tinos on the island of Tinos has over 800 chapels and in the 60's was declared a holy island. Many Greek Orthodox make a pilgrimage there. Yesterday, an older woman made her way up the very steep street on her hands and knees. The city has put out a narrow carpet for the devotees to crawl on, but this woman chose the hard pebbled and concrete street. Half way, a Greek Orthodox priest sat in the shade on a bench waiting for her and holding her shoes. I imagine the island goes through their share of Band-Aids. The church of the Annunciation dominates the town. It receives a treasury of offerings from pilgrims hoping to have their prayers answered.
June 18 -- Motor sailing to Mykonos, one of the most popular islands in the Cyclades, we walked the town’s tangle of streets, no wider than two people across, with dazzling white alleys and sugar-cube-shaped houses. It's built in a maze design to defy the wind and pirate raids. The temperatures were in the high 30's, when we left our day spot for the island of Siros for the night. Arriving at 5 pm, we swam in the warm sea to cool down. Con and I joined Lorna on the Athens subway to her last connecting station before arriving at the airport for her journey back to Calgary.
June 13 -- My jet-lagged sister-in-law landed in Athens and we drove straight to the Acropolis before bringing her aboard in Lavrion. The next day, we left the mainland for the island of Kea, anchored and rowed ashore for lunch AND for Con to watch the World Cup Football (soccer). It was deliciously hot, so Lorna and I rowed back to Big Sky to swim leaving Con in the restaurant. He flagged us down for his return trip to Big Sky. We visited the delightful town Batsi, on the island of Andros. While underway, we spotted slow moving dark creatures believing they were porpoises or small whales, and later dolphins visited, honouring Con's request that they return for Lorna. Batsi's harbour is delightful with quiet tavernas mixed in and around the fishing boats. Still no wind, and tremendous heat, we motored on toward the island of Tinos the next morning. We'd no sooner left the harbour and the black objects were swimming at the surface of the sea again. As we neared we saw possibly hundreds of them realizing when they leaped high out of the sea showing their sword-like noses that they were likely swordfish or marlins. Once again, dolphins visited and played at the bow for about 10 minutes. Setting sail, Big Sky lurched forward and Con called to Lorna who was sitting casually in the cockpit, "Hold on Lorna, we're going to heel."
Later she admitted she didn't know what "heel" meant, but she didn't worry since she knew how to swim.
The town of Tinos on the island of Tinos has over 800 chapels and in the 60's was declared a holy island. Many Greek Orthodox make a pilgrimage there. Yesterday, an older woman made her way up the very steep street on her hands and knees. The city has put out a narrow carpet for the devotees to crawl on, but this woman chose the hard pebbled and concrete street. Half way, a Greek Orthodox priest sat in the shade on a bench waiting for her and holding her shoes. I imagine the island goes through their share of Band-Aids. The church of the Annunciation dominates the town. It receives a treasury of offerings from pilgrims hoping to have their prayers answered.
June 18 -- Motor sailing to Mykonos, one of the most popular islands in the Cyclades, we walked the town’s tangle of streets, no wider than two people across, with dazzling white alleys and sugar-cube-shaped houses. It's built in a maze design to defy the wind and pirate raids. The temperatures were in the high 30's, when we left our day spot for the island of Siros for the night. Arriving at 5 pm, we swam in the warm sea to cool down. Con and I joined Lorna on the Athens subway to her last connecting station before arriving at the airport for her journey back to Calgary.
June 22 -- The Faliro Marina is just behind the Olympic Stadium in Athens. We're hoping to finally have our bow thruster fixed, and we'll also need to buy a new dinghy. Ours came apart at the seams while returning to Big Sky with Lorna. The glue seemed to give up at that very moment and water was rushing in at a few places. We stepped aboard, none of us dry. One of our big regrets was not buying tickets to the Aerosmith concert, played at the stadium just beside us. We listened to them and the thousands of fans cheering from our cockpit and the parties that continued well into the early hours of the morning.
June 24 -- Weather is cooling to high 20's giving us a bit of heat relief. We set off from the mainland marina for Russian Bay on the Peloponnese. It's markedly more quiet, just the sounds of goats and water lapping at the shore. Television reception is better than on the mainland and Con's enjoying the World Cup. Bad news for Italy today.
June 25 -- Con and I left the pretty bay this morning, passing the town of Poros, which is close to Athens, but separated from the mainland by a narrow, shallow channel. It's a snake-like path passed the town, and Con meticulously charted our route through the shallows. After four tries for the perfect anchorage, we settled into a quiet bay. Like the three bears story, the first anchorage was too narrow, the second too crowded, and the third we touched bottom! Finally, we anchored in the just right spot and listened to song birds, and the gentle sea lapping at Big Sky like a gentle caress. The bow anchor was down, with a stern line ashore. It was an enjoyable seven-hour motor sail today and we even watched the World Cup on TV and an episode of House.
June 28 -- Moving closer to the Koiladhi Boat Yard in Kilada, we anchored in the green waters near the lift as we have an 8:30 am lift. Anticipating "Greek time" we were surprised when at exactly 8:30 am, we were called on the VHF to come to the slip. The lift was excellent, the people professional, and the equipment was top notch. The boy in the yard, maybe 15, the nephew of the operator works the controls and has since he was 8. It’s a joy stick that moves all the crane’s wheels separately and moved the crane positioning it around the boats. A dream job for any kid!
July 2 -- Driving to Athens today (on our way to the hotel for an early morning flights to the Netherlands) we were flagged down on a mountain road by the Greek SWAT team. Four or five police officers were in flak jackets, heavily weaponed, one with a sniper rifle, others carrying semi-automatics. They looked in our car and spoke to us in English (how did they know?), telling us "two minutes," then flagging us on to "go quickly, now." WHAT WAS GOING ON? We checked into our hotel just in time for the World Cup game, Netherlands vs. Brazil, Con went crazy when Holland won, screaming and jumping.
June 24 -- Weather is cooling to high 20's giving us a bit of heat relief. We set off from the mainland marina for Russian Bay on the Peloponnese. It's markedly more quiet, just the sounds of goats and water lapping at the shore. Television reception is better than on the mainland and Con's enjoying the World Cup. Bad news for Italy today.
June 25 -- Con and I left the pretty bay this morning, passing the town of Poros, which is close to Athens, but separated from the mainland by a narrow, shallow channel. It's a snake-like path passed the town, and Con meticulously charted our route through the shallows. After four tries for the perfect anchorage, we settled into a quiet bay. Like the three bears story, the first anchorage was too narrow, the second too crowded, and the third we touched bottom! Finally, we anchored in the just right spot and listened to song birds, and the gentle sea lapping at Big Sky like a gentle caress. The bow anchor was down, with a stern line ashore. It was an enjoyable seven-hour motor sail today and we even watched the World Cup on TV and an episode of House.
June 28 -- Moving closer to the Koiladhi Boat Yard in Kilada, we anchored in the green waters near the lift as we have an 8:30 am lift. Anticipating "Greek time" we were surprised when at exactly 8:30 am, we were called on the VHF to come to the slip. The lift was excellent, the people professional, and the equipment was top notch. The boy in the yard, maybe 15, the nephew of the operator works the controls and has since he was 8. It’s a joy stick that moves all the crane’s wheels separately and moved the crane positioning it around the boats. A dream job for any kid!
July 2 -- Driving to Athens today (on our way to the hotel for an early morning flights to the Netherlands) we were flagged down on a mountain road by the Greek SWAT team. Four or five police officers were in flak jackets, heavily weaponed, one with a sniper rifle, others carrying semi-automatics. They looked in our car and spoke to us in English (how did they know?), telling us "two minutes," then flagging us on to "go quickly, now." WHAT WAS GOING ON? We checked into our hotel just in time for the World Cup game, Netherlands vs. Brazil, Con went crazy when Holland won, screaming and jumping.
We're in the Netherlands (Orange for the World Cup Football) on our way to Canada for Lindsey and Les' wedding with a second stop on Vancouver Island to visit my mom, friends Shirlee and Mark; and Con's brother Hugo and wife Elserine.
IN THE NETHERLANDS
July 9 -- Yesterday, we babysat Maya and Jon's daughter Anne, who turns one next Wednesday. This morning, Con surprised me with a canoe trip! We rented a two-seater kayak/canoe for the day and paddled around the Vuntus Lake, a protected body of water brimming with birds, ducks, swans and beautiful water lilies. Two swans swam ahead of us. It was beautiful and so very hot. By noon, we called it a day and stopped at the fish monger for smoked mackerel, herring and deep fried fish called "kibblings." Yum! Nomie joined us for dinner in Albertine's beautiful back yard. The Netherlands is on the edge of their seats waiting for the final World Cup match: Holland vs. Spain. The entire country is dressed and draped in orange.
IN BRENTWOOD BAY, CANADA
July 26 -- What a whirl wind of activity for us since leaving The Netherlands a few weeks ago. Con and I enjoyed a visit with my mom in Brentwood Bay, BC, who is doing well despite being a widow for six months. We spent a day and traveled up island to visit our good friends Shirlee and Mark in Nanaimo, and then we drove nearly around the corner to Elserine and Hugo's new place still under construction in Nanoose Bay.
Lindsey & Les' Wedding in Calgary
July 27 -- The wedding is in a few weeks (August 7th). Courtney hosted a shower for Lindsey in Courtney's backyard and we were to bring goofy stuff for Lindsey to wear. Hailey, one, joined in too. My beautiful mom arrives in a week. Four generations of family. Doug and Merrilee arrived from Toronto, and Les' family from BC.
August 8 -- Lindsey and Les' wedding yesterday in Red Deer was beautiful.
July 9 -- Yesterday, we babysat Maya and Jon's daughter Anne, who turns one next Wednesday. This morning, Con surprised me with a canoe trip! We rented a two-seater kayak/canoe for the day and paddled around the Vuntus Lake, a protected body of water brimming with birds, ducks, swans and beautiful water lilies. Two swans swam ahead of us. It was beautiful and so very hot. By noon, we called it a day and stopped at the fish monger for smoked mackerel, herring and deep fried fish called "kibblings." Yum! Nomie joined us for dinner in Albertine's beautiful back yard. The Netherlands is on the edge of their seats waiting for the final World Cup match: Holland vs. Spain. The entire country is dressed and draped in orange.
IN BRENTWOOD BAY, CANADA
July 26 -- What a whirl wind of activity for us since leaving The Netherlands a few weeks ago. Con and I enjoyed a visit with my mom in Brentwood Bay, BC, who is doing well despite being a widow for six months. We spent a day and traveled up island to visit our good friends Shirlee and Mark in Nanaimo, and then we drove nearly around the corner to Elserine and Hugo's new place still under construction in Nanoose Bay.
Lindsey & Les' Wedding in Calgary
July 27 -- The wedding is in a few weeks (August 7th). Courtney hosted a shower for Lindsey in Courtney's backyard and we were to bring goofy stuff for Lindsey to wear. Hailey, one, joined in too. My beautiful mom arrives in a week. Four generations of family. Doug and Merrilee arrived from Toronto, and Les' family from BC.
August 8 -- Lindsey and Les' wedding yesterday in Red Deer was beautiful.
BACK ON THE BOAT
August 26 -- We're beating "jet lag" in a hotel in the old town section of Nafplio while Big Sky remains on the hard. In Greece, we've purchased a six-month Cruising Permit, and while we're away, we can "freeze" the time on the permit, by putting it into bond. Legal authorities suggested we look into a Permanent Cruising Permit since Big Sky is VAT paid because as Canadian's we can only be in the EU countries 90 in 180 days. Con's article for Noonsite: http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Greece/Schengen-Visas-and-VAT-Cruisers-Reports. More on that below.
Back to Kilada, we hoisted our suitcases about six meters using a rope-pulley affair. We're melting on the land as we wait for the sail maker to arrive with our repaired sails so we can launch Big Sky back into the Aegean Sea.
August 28 -- Sails are now back in place and Big Sky was lowered into the sea. At anchor in the bay in front of the yard, we turned on the power and nothing worked, except our generator. Con scratched his head thinking... He called for a mechanic who happened to be at a neighbour's boat (in the bay) and came over 30 minutes later. The electrician, who spoke no English began taking apart the electrical board, the jib and main sail boxes, and other unrelated electrical devises to Con's dismay. "Hold on, hold on" Con said, suddenly remembering he'd forgotten to turn on a switch. He opened the switch cupboard, flipped up a switch, and the boat was turned on. We thanked him, and said, we'd put the boat panels back together. He then promptly ripped us off. In perfect English said, "That's 150 euro."
August 29 -- This morning, Con took one more dip before pulling up anchor, and just five or six meters from him, a little critter popped his head up to take a look at Con. It was an enormous turtle. He remained at our stern for a few minutes, and then carried on diving for breakfast. Yesterday, we saw dozens of tiny fish jump, being chased by something bigger. One victim sought protection mistakenly in our dinghy, but by the time we saw him, he was dried-up. Now underway, Big Sky is performing once again as if she's brand new. Large dolphins welcomed us back aboard jumping in front of our bow as we sliced the water going 5 knots.
September 2 -- Pointing Big Sky north to the Sporades Island, the sea is thick with basketball-sized jellyfish. We accidentally left the V-berth window ajar and water came over soaking the bed and bedding. While in Nafplio we investigated what was involved to be able to sail permanently in Greek waters and by-pass the EU rules stating we had 90 days in 180 days in the EU. We'd gone so far as to hire a Greek lawyer, translate our documents into Greek, and then walk with her to the tax office to apply for a Greek Tax number. We pulled a number and sat with her waiting for our turn. After about 30 minutes, she received a phone call from her office who had been researching our situation. She spoke to us quietly, "I have learned that the Greek Tax Department would thoroughly enjoy getting hold of our tax number, and they will charge you extraordinary taxes as non-EU residents." We thanked her, tossed our number ending the procedure right there and paid our legal bill.
September 7 -- Happy 2nd Birthday Dex!
We're heading north toward Skopelos, the island where Mama Mia was filmed, carefully motoring through the shallows to a cozy pier. We’re waiting for the Khalkis Bridge to open. According to Port Police that won’t be for a few days.
August 26 -- We're beating "jet lag" in a hotel in the old town section of Nafplio while Big Sky remains on the hard. In Greece, we've purchased a six-month Cruising Permit, and while we're away, we can "freeze" the time on the permit, by putting it into bond. Legal authorities suggested we look into a Permanent Cruising Permit since Big Sky is VAT paid because as Canadian's we can only be in the EU countries 90 in 180 days. Con's article for Noonsite: http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Greece/Schengen-Visas-and-VAT-Cruisers-Reports. More on that below.
Back to Kilada, we hoisted our suitcases about six meters using a rope-pulley affair. We're melting on the land as we wait for the sail maker to arrive with our repaired sails so we can launch Big Sky back into the Aegean Sea.
August 28 -- Sails are now back in place and Big Sky was lowered into the sea. At anchor in the bay in front of the yard, we turned on the power and nothing worked, except our generator. Con scratched his head thinking... He called for a mechanic who happened to be at a neighbour's boat (in the bay) and came over 30 minutes later. The electrician, who spoke no English began taking apart the electrical board, the jib and main sail boxes, and other unrelated electrical devises to Con's dismay. "Hold on, hold on" Con said, suddenly remembering he'd forgotten to turn on a switch. He opened the switch cupboard, flipped up a switch, and the boat was turned on. We thanked him, and said, we'd put the boat panels back together. He then promptly ripped us off. In perfect English said, "That's 150 euro."
August 29 -- This morning, Con took one more dip before pulling up anchor, and just five or six meters from him, a little critter popped his head up to take a look at Con. It was an enormous turtle. He remained at our stern for a few minutes, and then carried on diving for breakfast. Yesterday, we saw dozens of tiny fish jump, being chased by something bigger. One victim sought protection mistakenly in our dinghy, but by the time we saw him, he was dried-up. Now underway, Big Sky is performing once again as if she's brand new. Large dolphins welcomed us back aboard jumping in front of our bow as we sliced the water going 5 knots.
September 2 -- Pointing Big Sky north to the Sporades Island, the sea is thick with basketball-sized jellyfish. We accidentally left the V-berth window ajar and water came over soaking the bed and bedding. While in Nafplio we investigated what was involved to be able to sail permanently in Greek waters and by-pass the EU rules stating we had 90 days in 180 days in the EU. We'd gone so far as to hire a Greek lawyer, translate our documents into Greek, and then walk with her to the tax office to apply for a Greek Tax number. We pulled a number and sat with her waiting for our turn. After about 30 minutes, she received a phone call from her office who had been researching our situation. She spoke to us quietly, "I have learned that the Greek Tax Department would thoroughly enjoy getting hold of our tax number, and they will charge you extraordinary taxes as non-EU residents." We thanked her, tossed our number ending the procedure right there and paid our legal bill.
September 7 -- Happy 2nd Birthday Dex!
We're heading north toward Skopelos, the island where Mama Mia was filmed, carefully motoring through the shallows to a cozy pier. We’re waiting for the Khalkis Bridge to open. According to Port Police that won’t be for a few days.
Below: Con driving through the Khalki bridge opening at midnight; the centre pictures shows the bridge that opens and charges Canadian's 100 euro to go through; and Skathios.
Khalki Bridge, Greece
September 10 -- We finally received permission to pass through the Khalki Bridge having waited a week. Incredibly we were charged 100 euro to pass. Most every other countries are charged 19 euro. We visited the Port Authorities to contest the high cost Canadian's must pay. "We're friends," Con told the manager, "Greece and Canada. Why are we listed with North Korea, Libya, Iraq, and Nigeria?"
He responded, "Canada has not signed a reciprocal bridge agreement and you must take it up with your government, not me."
That afternoon, Con wrote to the Canadian federal minister in charge of "reciprocal agreements". (Update: Two years of continual correspondence with our government at the Canadian embassy, nothing was ever achieved. Canadian's still pay five times more than other like countries.)
The Bridge Crossing: It started out orderly. At midnight, Big Sky was called as the first boat to enter, we motored forward and then a free for all took place with fishing boats and other sailboats racing to beat us. Our concern was that there were only two spots on the opposite side of the bridge and any other spots were too shallow for us. A German captain of a smaller sailboat tried to cut us off dangerously and had to put his boat into a hard reverse causing one guy to fall off and into the wild current. There were crowds of people watching the "event" and pulled him to safety. The waves from just our two boats caused a mini tsunami on the boardwalk drenching people having dinner and drinks along the waterfront.
September 12 -- At anchor now, our anchor pulled like a puppy with a sock. We'd set the anchor alarm in case we dragged, but by morning, we were still in position, however, our GPS told us we'd moved 9.5 NM -- in circles.
September 17 -- With water temperatures at 29.5 degree in Volos Bay you couldn't get us out of the water. While at the quay, a British man in a neighbouring boat who referred to himself as a 'Mast Monkey' spotted that our wind indicator at the top of our mast wasn't working. He offered to go up and replace it. The only problem was (but not for him) his leg was in a cast! Nevertheless, we ordered the part, and he went up replaced it, and our spreader light bulbs. He said, "Pay me whatever you think it's worth." Volos is a typical harbour city. The pier was littered with kids partying until morning. Carlos, AKA Mast Monkey said boaters have woken in the morning to graffiti on their boats. We were happy to leave. Yesterday, a group of teens took turns climbing aboard Big Sky for 'photo opportunities' that is until Mast Monkey swore at them in Greek to 'get the fu** off!' He claimed they were warming up to rob us later. We anchorage off the island of Evia, in the beautiful Bay of Volos, with not a breath of wind nor a ripple on the sea. The landscape looked like the Swiss Alps.
September 18 – Happy 30th birthday daughter Lindsey!
September 19 -- We've arrived on the beautiful island of Skathios, AKA 'Mama Mia Island,' or at least one of the Northern Sporades islands where they filmed the movie. We motored around the island spotting locations where the filming took place. They shot scenes in the old harbour in Skathios. It's a gorgeous town, friendly people, and cute white-washed Greek houses piled high along the hillside. Air temperatures are a delightful 30 degrees, with a cooler fall breezes with water hanging in at 29 degrees.
September 23 -- In Skopelos we rented a car. The island is a forest with lush pine trees blanketing the land. It's as beautiful by sea as by land. A highlight on this island was climbing the cliff face to Apos Iaonnis Monastery on the top of the rock where the 'Mama Mia' chapel scene was filmed and sneaking a tiny shake on the bell rope. It was spectacular with wild waves crashing around us.
September 24 -- On a rough sea, we left the island of Skopelos yesterday letting the stern wind give us a great sail to Pattiri on the island of Alonnisos. It's a beautiful horse-shoe shaped harbour cut into a canyon-looking landscape. Swells rolled in causing us to rock most of the night. Nervous that we'd slip on the anchor, I stayed awake most of the night to keep watch. A British couple arrived on a charter boat laying their anchor over ours. We called to them to let them know. The man growled, "NO WE DIDN"T!"
We didn't take that matter further, but suggested that they pull their line further from us on the concrete, as their boat was crashing into our port side. Again, the man responded, this time even more unfriendly, "No!" A moment later, they crashed into us badly causing an ugly gash in the side of our boat. The man gave us a dirty look, backed out, taking our anchor (since they had indeed dropped on ours) and before they'd left, they dragged their anchor across the tourist boat's anchor which lifted and the boat lurched into the concrete. They left and the harbor was filled with chaos.
September 10 -- We finally received permission to pass through the Khalki Bridge having waited a week. Incredibly we were charged 100 euro to pass. Most every other countries are charged 19 euro. We visited the Port Authorities to contest the high cost Canadian's must pay. "We're friends," Con told the manager, "Greece and Canada. Why are we listed with North Korea, Libya, Iraq, and Nigeria?"
He responded, "Canada has not signed a reciprocal bridge agreement and you must take it up with your government, not me."
That afternoon, Con wrote to the Canadian federal minister in charge of "reciprocal agreements". (Update: Two years of continual correspondence with our government at the Canadian embassy, nothing was ever achieved. Canadian's still pay five times more than other like countries.)
The Bridge Crossing: It started out orderly. At midnight, Big Sky was called as the first boat to enter, we motored forward and then a free for all took place with fishing boats and other sailboats racing to beat us. Our concern was that there were only two spots on the opposite side of the bridge and any other spots were too shallow for us. A German captain of a smaller sailboat tried to cut us off dangerously and had to put his boat into a hard reverse causing one guy to fall off and into the wild current. There were crowds of people watching the "event" and pulled him to safety. The waves from just our two boats caused a mini tsunami on the boardwalk drenching people having dinner and drinks along the waterfront.
September 12 -- At anchor now, our anchor pulled like a puppy with a sock. We'd set the anchor alarm in case we dragged, but by morning, we were still in position, however, our GPS told us we'd moved 9.5 NM -- in circles.
September 17 -- With water temperatures at 29.5 degree in Volos Bay you couldn't get us out of the water. While at the quay, a British man in a neighbouring boat who referred to himself as a 'Mast Monkey' spotted that our wind indicator at the top of our mast wasn't working. He offered to go up and replace it. The only problem was (but not for him) his leg was in a cast! Nevertheless, we ordered the part, and he went up replaced it, and our spreader light bulbs. He said, "Pay me whatever you think it's worth." Volos is a typical harbour city. The pier was littered with kids partying until morning. Carlos, AKA Mast Monkey said boaters have woken in the morning to graffiti on their boats. We were happy to leave. Yesterday, a group of teens took turns climbing aboard Big Sky for 'photo opportunities' that is until Mast Monkey swore at them in Greek to 'get the fu** off!' He claimed they were warming up to rob us later. We anchorage off the island of Evia, in the beautiful Bay of Volos, with not a breath of wind nor a ripple on the sea. The landscape looked like the Swiss Alps.
September 18 – Happy 30th birthday daughter Lindsey!
September 19 -- We've arrived on the beautiful island of Skathios, AKA 'Mama Mia Island,' or at least one of the Northern Sporades islands where they filmed the movie. We motored around the island spotting locations where the filming took place. They shot scenes in the old harbour in Skathios. It's a gorgeous town, friendly people, and cute white-washed Greek houses piled high along the hillside. Air temperatures are a delightful 30 degrees, with a cooler fall breezes with water hanging in at 29 degrees.
September 23 -- In Skopelos we rented a car. The island is a forest with lush pine trees blanketing the land. It's as beautiful by sea as by land. A highlight on this island was climbing the cliff face to Apos Iaonnis Monastery on the top of the rock where the 'Mama Mia' chapel scene was filmed and sneaking a tiny shake on the bell rope. It was spectacular with wild waves crashing around us.
September 24 -- On a rough sea, we left the island of Skopelos yesterday letting the stern wind give us a great sail to Pattiri on the island of Alonnisos. It's a beautiful horse-shoe shaped harbour cut into a canyon-looking landscape. Swells rolled in causing us to rock most of the night. Nervous that we'd slip on the anchor, I stayed awake most of the night to keep watch. A British couple arrived on a charter boat laying their anchor over ours. We called to them to let them know. The man growled, "NO WE DIDN"T!"
We didn't take that matter further, but suggested that they pull their line further from us on the concrete, as their boat was crashing into our port side. Again, the man responded, this time even more unfriendly, "No!" A moment later, they crashed into us badly causing an ugly gash in the side of our boat. The man gave us a dirty look, backed out, taking our anchor (since they had indeed dropped on ours) and before they'd left, they dragged their anchor across the tourist boat's anchor which lifted and the boat lurched into the concrete. They left and the harbor was filled with chaos.
Asia, our third continent aboard Big Sky
September 27 -- Last night at anchor in a bay the Meltimi winds surprised us blowing 50 with gusts to 61 knots in the night. Hurricane winds start at 64! We were tucked into a semi-sheltered bay, with an excellent anchor hold, with Bruce, our fifty-kilogram anchor deep in the mud with a forty-meter leash of chain. We tossed like a rubber duck which played havoc with the brownies baking in the oven. Wind raced through our rigging roaring loudly off the stern into the open sea behind us. The bay had fickle depths, and when scouting out this location, our keel hit bottom.
Our EU time is up, so we're stamping out of Greece and will enter Turkey in a few days.
September 28 -- Arriving in Lesvos, Greece in the Eastern Sporades just as the sun was setting, we tied to the Venetian Harbour and stepped ashore for mezes (appetizers). A Byzantine castle rests high on a mountain overlooking the Aegean with Turkey to the east and the Greek Sporades island to the west. The next morning, it was too tempting, despite the heat and we climbed to the top.
September 29 -- Our last Greek stop before Turkey, we dropped our stern anchor and motored forward tying the bow to the quay. With rain expected, we stayed aboard while the wind continued to mount and then bang! Big Sky's bow hit the concrete when the anchor slipped. Gratefully, we had decided to remain aboard and were able to secure Big Sky starboard to the quay saving us from a lot of damage.
TURKEY
October 2 -- We entered Dikili, Turkey, Big Sky's third continent, hovered in the small congested harbour surveying the situation. It was chalker-block full with fishing boats on the mooring side, restaurants behind, and two big concrete trucks pouring mud making cement on at the front. Spotting two free rings in the tangle of lines and boats, with some trepidation, we dropped our stern anchor not at all sure that we'd get it back again, and motored toward the rings. With great acrobatics, I threaded the rings and secured Big Sky. A friendly harbour master appeared with tea and a bill for 50 euro if we stay. No electricity or water. We'd been used to an average of 6 euro per night in Greece often including electricity and water. In Turkey, we are not allowed to check ourselves into the country, they insist an agent is hired. We would also need a Visa which can be purchased upon entry. The agent appeared, took our papers and passports despite us asking "how much" he just smiled giving no answer. Two hours later he returned: Our cost would be 250 euro, not counting the stay in the chaotic harbour. We thanked him, took back our papers, and said we wouldn't be staying. The Port Police stood guard at the exit, as we were illegal immigrants when I requested permission to pass in order to pick up necessary market supplies. He said, “Thirty minutes, then you leave or pay.” We sailed back to a clean, quiet Greek harbour -- no cost. Despite being passed our 90 days, we purchased a new cruising log for 50 euros and snuck back into cozy Greece despite being illegal.
Greece Again
October 4 -- Happy 27th birthday to Courtney!
October 5 -- The last of the Meltimi winds were blowing down the Aegean causing swells and confused seas as we entered the Patmos harbour, the "Jerusalem of the Aegean". The '15-day captains' as Con calls them, along with eight cruise ships, and tall ships arrived on in the harbour. Watching the 15-day captains struggling to tie on at the quay with the Meltimi winds howling was frightening to watch, but in truth, great entertainment. It was a full-time job keeping Big Sky safe from boats ramming into us so we untied and dropped anchor in a quiet anchorage nearby.
Patmos is where St. John's arrival in 95 AD, set up in a cave, now the "Holy Cave of the Apocalypse" located near the chora. St. John saw the vision of fire and brimstone and allegedly dictated the book of Revelation there. In 2003, Con and I visited Patmos as '15-day captains', rented a motorcycle and visited the cave (Con behind me, since he doesn't have a motorcycle licence). He specifically asked the owner for the "pink" helmet. He was hilarious. At one point, I'd made a wrong turn attempting to get out of the city, and with Con in his pink helmet, me at the handlebars, we motored down about 20 steps back onto the road.
At the cave, a priest remains inside busying himself by picking up every single speck of dust with meticulous care. And the story goes, the indentations in the cave were made when the saint rested his head and hand saying, “I heard the voice of God coming from the cleft in the rock.” An old cobbled pathway leads up to the Monastery of St. John at the top of the chora where spectacular view of the surrounding islands can be seen.
September 27 -- Last night at anchor in a bay the Meltimi winds surprised us blowing 50 with gusts to 61 knots in the night. Hurricane winds start at 64! We were tucked into a semi-sheltered bay, with an excellent anchor hold, with Bruce, our fifty-kilogram anchor deep in the mud with a forty-meter leash of chain. We tossed like a rubber duck which played havoc with the brownies baking in the oven. Wind raced through our rigging roaring loudly off the stern into the open sea behind us. The bay had fickle depths, and when scouting out this location, our keel hit bottom.
Our EU time is up, so we're stamping out of Greece and will enter Turkey in a few days.
September 28 -- Arriving in Lesvos, Greece in the Eastern Sporades just as the sun was setting, we tied to the Venetian Harbour and stepped ashore for mezes (appetizers). A Byzantine castle rests high on a mountain overlooking the Aegean with Turkey to the east and the Greek Sporades island to the west. The next morning, it was too tempting, despite the heat and we climbed to the top.
September 29 -- Our last Greek stop before Turkey, we dropped our stern anchor and motored forward tying the bow to the quay. With rain expected, we stayed aboard while the wind continued to mount and then bang! Big Sky's bow hit the concrete when the anchor slipped. Gratefully, we had decided to remain aboard and were able to secure Big Sky starboard to the quay saving us from a lot of damage.
TURKEY
October 2 -- We entered Dikili, Turkey, Big Sky's third continent, hovered in the small congested harbour surveying the situation. It was chalker-block full with fishing boats on the mooring side, restaurants behind, and two big concrete trucks pouring mud making cement on at the front. Spotting two free rings in the tangle of lines and boats, with some trepidation, we dropped our stern anchor not at all sure that we'd get it back again, and motored toward the rings. With great acrobatics, I threaded the rings and secured Big Sky. A friendly harbour master appeared with tea and a bill for 50 euro if we stay. No electricity or water. We'd been used to an average of 6 euro per night in Greece often including electricity and water. In Turkey, we are not allowed to check ourselves into the country, they insist an agent is hired. We would also need a Visa which can be purchased upon entry. The agent appeared, took our papers and passports despite us asking "how much" he just smiled giving no answer. Two hours later he returned: Our cost would be 250 euro, not counting the stay in the chaotic harbour. We thanked him, took back our papers, and said we wouldn't be staying. The Port Police stood guard at the exit, as we were illegal immigrants when I requested permission to pass in order to pick up necessary market supplies. He said, “Thirty minutes, then you leave or pay.” We sailed back to a clean, quiet Greek harbour -- no cost. Despite being passed our 90 days, we purchased a new cruising log for 50 euros and snuck back into cozy Greece despite being illegal.
Greece Again
October 4 -- Happy 27th birthday to Courtney!
October 5 -- The last of the Meltimi winds were blowing down the Aegean causing swells and confused seas as we entered the Patmos harbour, the "Jerusalem of the Aegean". The '15-day captains' as Con calls them, along with eight cruise ships, and tall ships arrived on in the harbour. Watching the 15-day captains struggling to tie on at the quay with the Meltimi winds howling was frightening to watch, but in truth, great entertainment. It was a full-time job keeping Big Sky safe from boats ramming into us so we untied and dropped anchor in a quiet anchorage nearby.
Patmos is where St. John's arrival in 95 AD, set up in a cave, now the "Holy Cave of the Apocalypse" located near the chora. St. John saw the vision of fire and brimstone and allegedly dictated the book of Revelation there. In 2003, Con and I visited Patmos as '15-day captains', rented a motorcycle and visited the cave (Con behind me, since he doesn't have a motorcycle licence). He specifically asked the owner for the "pink" helmet. He was hilarious. At one point, I'd made a wrong turn attempting to get out of the city, and with Con in his pink helmet, me at the handlebars, we motored down about 20 steps back onto the road.
At the cave, a priest remains inside busying himself by picking up every single speck of dust with meticulous care. And the story goes, the indentations in the cave were made when the saint rested his head and hand saying, “I heard the voice of God coming from the cleft in the rock.” An old cobbled pathway leads up to the Monastery of St. John at the top of the chora where spectacular view of the surrounding islands can be seen.
October 8 -- Easterly's have us tucked into the Naxos harbour beside the Venetian castle, a castle that's slowly sinking into the sea. White caps are breaking on the rocks sending spray a story high. It was a free stay including water and electricity. UPDATE: visiting in 2016 the same harbour was privately owned and our bill was 35 euro for the stay and a hefty fee for water and power. Naxos and Paxos are the remaining islands in the Cyclades we haven't explored. Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and there is a beautiful big bay between the two islands making a perfect safe spot for anchoring in various winds. Behind the main street you can get pleasantly lost in the maze of cobble stone paths that wind around the town in circular maze style. The pathways are covered in grape vines, great shade in the summer heat, however, it's just 23 degrees today. Naxos is completely white-washed except for the blue domes on the churches sitting on the parched hillsides. The 15-day captains are having a heck of a time in these winds, and when you're on a timetable, it just complicates the whole sailing vacation because the boats have to be returned on time for the next crew. One captain found himself in a real mess trying to exit the harbour, crashing into most of the boats on his pier. At one point, everyone took a pause from the chaos to exchange insurance.
October 11 -- Once the wind settled, so did the sea, and we sailed on to Naousa, Paros. Passing the rocks on our way into Paros was a sobering moment. In 2000, a ferry captain lied claiming he fell asleep, the real story came out... he was watching the football finals, missed the turn, and plowed into the rocks.Eighty-two passengers died. http://www.greekislandhopping.com/Updates/updatepages/u_disaster.html Following this disaster, other Greek stories surfaced involving cover ups, political corruption, and eventually the man who received most of the finger-pointing, sadly jumped from a sixth floor window to his death in Piraeus.
October 12 -- Angry fishermen closed the Port of Paros in a noisy protest over the EU putting fishing regulations in place. About 20 fishing boats, flying black flags made of plastic bags, and close to 100 fishermen blocked the harbour mouth and then docked in the ferry terminal in an effort to draw attention to their protest. They delayed one ferry from leaving, by lining up their boats across the harbour entrance. The ferry captain gave three loud blasts on his horn indicating he was backing up, and used his ferry wash to push the fishing boats back, and was able to exit.
When the next ferry arrived, the fishers again lit flares, honked, and shouted. The protest had nothing to do with the ferries; it was for the attention. The EU has passed a law in Brussels last year declaring that the Greek traditional fishing boats are no longer able to fish within a three-nautical mile zone from the coast. The fishermen claim their boats are not able to go further as they're not sea worthy. The Greek fishing boats are very unique to Greece, and the fishermen claim they will cease to exist if these laws are enforced, as well as their livelihood. The Harbour Master came out to talk with the groups of fishers, who assured him that they would move their fishing boats once the large ferry made his turn toward the dock, and they did.
October 11 -- Once the wind settled, so did the sea, and we sailed on to Naousa, Paros. Passing the rocks on our way into Paros was a sobering moment. In 2000, a ferry captain lied claiming he fell asleep, the real story came out... he was watching the football finals, missed the turn, and plowed into the rocks.Eighty-two passengers died. http://www.greekislandhopping.com/Updates/updatepages/u_disaster.html Following this disaster, other Greek stories surfaced involving cover ups, political corruption, and eventually the man who received most of the finger-pointing, sadly jumped from a sixth floor window to his death in Piraeus.
October 12 -- Angry fishermen closed the Port of Paros in a noisy protest over the EU putting fishing regulations in place. About 20 fishing boats, flying black flags made of plastic bags, and close to 100 fishermen blocked the harbour mouth and then docked in the ferry terminal in an effort to draw attention to their protest. They delayed one ferry from leaving, by lining up their boats across the harbour entrance. The ferry captain gave three loud blasts on his horn indicating he was backing up, and used his ferry wash to push the fishing boats back, and was able to exit.
When the next ferry arrived, the fishers again lit flares, honked, and shouted. The protest had nothing to do with the ferries; it was for the attention. The EU has passed a law in Brussels last year declaring that the Greek traditional fishing boats are no longer able to fish within a three-nautical mile zone from the coast. The fishermen claim their boats are not able to go further as they're not sea worthy. The Greek fishing boats are very unique to Greece, and the fishermen claim they will cease to exist if these laws are enforced, as well as their livelihood. The Harbour Master came out to talk with the groups of fishers, who assured him that they would move their fishing boats once the large ferry made his turn toward the dock, and they did.
October 17 – MOM ARRIVES ABOARD!
Mom flew to as far as Toronto with my brother Doug, connected to Athens, and we collected her at the airport. She and dad always wanted to visit Greece, and now mom 83 is here! We sailed from Lavrion watching the flying fish along the way to the town quay in Korissia on the island of Kea. The water temperature was 26 degrees so we let down the gate for her first dip (however quick) in the Mediterranean. We woke in the morning to gray clouds and a few lightning flashes. Big winds are expected later today and for the next few days, so we charted our course to the pretty town of Basti, on the island of Andros where we'd have a secure mooring. The rain pelted down just as we got underway. The 3 1/2-hour motor started out over smooth seas, but progressively got more choppy. Mom had taken a quarter of a sea-sickness pill, because they're mighty little tablets and usually put me to sleep for the day, but it did little to help mom's sea sickness. She laid on the couch during the journey. Once we tied up in Basti, we enjoyed stuffed peppers for lunch, and a pot of tea with cookies. We've been exploring the town as the Meltimi blows around us. Big Sky is tucked behind the breakwater as south winds blow the sea to crash against the rocks and over the quay.
October 21 -- The winds were blowing hard, teasing us with small windows of time to move from one island to the next. We left Batsi, when the winds calmed, but we knew the sea would be miserable. That was an understatement. It was quite likely the most unpleasant sea we've ever encountered... and wouldn't you know it, it's when we're traveling with precious cargo -- my sweet mom. For 4.5 hours and with gusts at times to 53 knots, we were tossed endlessly. Waves crash over the bow and dodger, riding higher than the rail starboard. Mom was so sick. It was 4 1/2 hours of hell. We entered Tinos' deep harbour, dropped the anchor in a crosswind, with a few people waiting to catch our lines motored forward only to learn time and again that our stern anchor wouldn't hold. At one point, the wind pushing us further starboard until our keel was over the neighbour's anchor chain. After exerting plenty of adrenalin we got back in the harbour attempting -- again. Con maneuvered the bow around so we could back in and drop our 50 kilogram never-fails-us Bruce anchor, and it didn't hold. We lined up and attempted again, it held, we were 30 meters to the quay and the anchor wouldn't feed anymore, we aborted that attempt. Stepping on the electric button to pull up the Bruce, the motor gave out, and Con cranked it the rest of the way by hand, while I kept the boat off the cruise liners mooring, all the while, watching that a ship didn't enter the harbour. Now completely exhausted, and a crowd of people all around the harbour watching and giving advice, we dropped the stern anchor again. We came in too short! Pulled it up realizing we'd now hooked an old anchor in the harbour. Con attempted to lift the anchor with our boat hook, and the boat hook plastic handle popped off and we watched the stick begin to float away. Quickly, we lowered the gate, grabbed the stick, tied a rope on the anchor, lifted it, dropped the anchor, backed up, and were once again free to try to dock. Finally, 3 1/2 hours later, we secured the stern anchor, tied up, high-fived each other, and heard the people at the bars and at the quay clapping and cheering. Brushed our hair, washed our hands, collected mom who had been happily reading and doing crosswords in the pilothouse, and set off for a meal. It had been eight hours since we'd eaten.
Mom flew to as far as Toronto with my brother Doug, connected to Athens, and we collected her at the airport. She and dad always wanted to visit Greece, and now mom 83 is here! We sailed from Lavrion watching the flying fish along the way to the town quay in Korissia on the island of Kea. The water temperature was 26 degrees so we let down the gate for her first dip (however quick) in the Mediterranean. We woke in the morning to gray clouds and a few lightning flashes. Big winds are expected later today and for the next few days, so we charted our course to the pretty town of Basti, on the island of Andros where we'd have a secure mooring. The rain pelted down just as we got underway. The 3 1/2-hour motor started out over smooth seas, but progressively got more choppy. Mom had taken a quarter of a sea-sickness pill, because they're mighty little tablets and usually put me to sleep for the day, but it did little to help mom's sea sickness. She laid on the couch during the journey. Once we tied up in Basti, we enjoyed stuffed peppers for lunch, and a pot of tea with cookies. We've been exploring the town as the Meltimi blows around us. Big Sky is tucked behind the breakwater as south winds blow the sea to crash against the rocks and over the quay.
October 21 -- The winds were blowing hard, teasing us with small windows of time to move from one island to the next. We left Batsi, when the winds calmed, but we knew the sea would be miserable. That was an understatement. It was quite likely the most unpleasant sea we've ever encountered... and wouldn't you know it, it's when we're traveling with precious cargo -- my sweet mom. For 4.5 hours and with gusts at times to 53 knots, we were tossed endlessly. Waves crash over the bow and dodger, riding higher than the rail starboard. Mom was so sick. It was 4 1/2 hours of hell. We entered Tinos' deep harbour, dropped the anchor in a crosswind, with a few people waiting to catch our lines motored forward only to learn time and again that our stern anchor wouldn't hold. At one point, the wind pushing us further starboard until our keel was over the neighbour's anchor chain. After exerting plenty of adrenalin we got back in the harbour attempting -- again. Con maneuvered the bow around so we could back in and drop our 50 kilogram never-fails-us Bruce anchor, and it didn't hold. We lined up and attempted again, it held, we were 30 meters to the quay and the anchor wouldn't feed anymore, we aborted that attempt. Stepping on the electric button to pull up the Bruce, the motor gave out, and Con cranked it the rest of the way by hand, while I kept the boat off the cruise liners mooring, all the while, watching that a ship didn't enter the harbour. Now completely exhausted, and a crowd of people all around the harbour watching and giving advice, we dropped the stern anchor again. We came in too short! Pulled it up realizing we'd now hooked an old anchor in the harbour. Con attempted to lift the anchor with our boat hook, and the boat hook plastic handle popped off and we watched the stick begin to float away. Quickly, we lowered the gate, grabbed the stick, tied a rope on the anchor, lifted it, dropped the anchor, backed up, and were once again free to try to dock. Finally, 3 1/2 hours later, we secured the stern anchor, tied up, high-fived each other, and heard the people at the bars and at the quay clapping and cheering. Brushed our hair, washed our hands, collected mom who had been happily reading and doing crosswords in the pilothouse, and set off for a meal. It had been eight hours since we'd eaten.
October 22 -- The Aegean Sea has definitely turned nasty, with high winds, keeping us grounded in the religious town of Tinos, on the island of Tinos. The three of us walked up the hill while pilgrims crawled beside us, up up up, a kilometer or more to the Greek Orthodox Panagia Evangelistria church at the top of the hill which dominates the town. The town has placed a red carpet on the street to save knees, and kiosk sell knee-pads, but for those wishing to do more penance, use the rough sidewalk and stone-covered tarmac of the church and no knee pads.
We returned to Big Sky late one evening and with the wind blowing Big Sky off the pier, mom was having a heck of a time getting back aboard. Con pulled the line so Big Sky moved for just a moment closer to the pier. I held mom by her belt and she reached for the ladder (without pulling it, as it would come off) and she stretched her short legs just enough to make it -- but only after a few aborted tries. A woman about 40 stopped and said to me, "That's no way to treat your mother. Turn your boat around so she can get on." If she only knew about our arrival a few days ago. Once we were all aboard, we walked to the cockpit where mom chose the tiny opening under the bimini cross bar rather than the back, rolling herself into a tiny ball and summersaulting onto the cushion. I laughed so hard, I couldn't even help her up since she was laughing so hard and couldn't help herself.
We weren't going anywhere with Big Sky in the winds, so mom and I caught a fast ferry to Mykonos. The catamaran sliced through four and five meter white capped waves, splashing high and hard against the windows. In 15 minutes we were there. The town is stunning, everything is white-washed and geared for tourists. Mom loved it, walking through the cobbled streets twisting maze like through the old town. We passed two lazy pelicans sunning themselves on the narrow lane. For lunch, we selected a perfect restaurant with our table situated on a tiny deck in the sunshine with the Aegean Sea directly below us. The water was so clear, we could count the fish below. At the end of the day, we ferried back to Con.
October 25 -- Finally, we were able to extract ourselves from Tinos with a lull in the wind and sailed to the neighbour island of Syros. We tied at the quay in the harbour of the largest city in the Cyclades Islands – Ermoupoli. Mom, Con and I hiked up to the Catholic church that overlooks the city. It looks like a giant amphitheater, with the harbour in the centre. That afternoon, mom drove us out of the harbour and part way to our next stop on the other end of Syros and then on to Loutra on the island of Kythnos tying alongside the pier. Walking 100 meters we were at the natural hot spring that flows into the sea. While relaxing in the hot waters, a fish took a bite out of Con's shin! A charter boat left just before us, lifting the anchor of a large yacht, waking the occupants when their boat hit the concrete pier. The charter boat continued to be in distress, and dragged the yachts anchor chain, and then drifted into another sailboat's anchor chain. Underway, the sky opened and the rain fell so hard it was as if we were going through a car-wash. As quickly as it came, it left and an enormous rainbow filled the sky. We all agreed it was dad smiling at us.
October 29 -- After a hike up to the clock tower on Poros to take in the surrounding sea and beautiful red-roofed houses, we set off for Piraeus. We anticipated sunshine by the afternoon, over a smooth sea, with head-winds and instead we had another day of pounding into the waves head-on. Mom loved it all. She bundled in my Gill sailing suit and sat out in the cockpit. Approaching Athens, we heard the whistle blow and 150 sail boats were heading toward us with spinnakers flying in a regatta. Con did a figure eight dodging everybody. From the sea, we could see the Acropolis with the Parthenon shining brightly under the sun.
October 30 -- By subway we arrived in Monastiraki, the bazaar area in Athens, only 15 minutes from our boat. We wandered through the streets, filled with designer clothes and flea market items. Everywhere we looked, ancient ruins appeared in front of us. Early afternoon, we stopped in the shadow of the Acropolis and had lunch in a cozy restaurant. Rejuvenated, we walked a few hundred meters further and entered the New Acropolis Museum. On the fourth floor you're transported back in time to 400 BC. The Museum is surrounded by windows, with the south providing a perfect view of the Acropolis just outside the window.
October 31 -- On our last day, we visited the Acropolis, a highlight for mom, as she climbed up and down the rock face with ease exploring the ancient sights.
We returned to Big Sky late one evening and with the wind blowing Big Sky off the pier, mom was having a heck of a time getting back aboard. Con pulled the line so Big Sky moved for just a moment closer to the pier. I held mom by her belt and she reached for the ladder (without pulling it, as it would come off) and she stretched her short legs just enough to make it -- but only after a few aborted tries. A woman about 40 stopped and said to me, "That's no way to treat your mother. Turn your boat around so she can get on." If she only knew about our arrival a few days ago. Once we were all aboard, we walked to the cockpit where mom chose the tiny opening under the bimini cross bar rather than the back, rolling herself into a tiny ball and summersaulting onto the cushion. I laughed so hard, I couldn't even help her up since she was laughing so hard and couldn't help herself.
We weren't going anywhere with Big Sky in the winds, so mom and I caught a fast ferry to Mykonos. The catamaran sliced through four and five meter white capped waves, splashing high and hard against the windows. In 15 minutes we were there. The town is stunning, everything is white-washed and geared for tourists. Mom loved it, walking through the cobbled streets twisting maze like through the old town. We passed two lazy pelicans sunning themselves on the narrow lane. For lunch, we selected a perfect restaurant with our table situated on a tiny deck in the sunshine with the Aegean Sea directly below us. The water was so clear, we could count the fish below. At the end of the day, we ferried back to Con.
October 25 -- Finally, we were able to extract ourselves from Tinos with a lull in the wind and sailed to the neighbour island of Syros. We tied at the quay in the harbour of the largest city in the Cyclades Islands – Ermoupoli. Mom, Con and I hiked up to the Catholic church that overlooks the city. It looks like a giant amphitheater, with the harbour in the centre. That afternoon, mom drove us out of the harbour and part way to our next stop on the other end of Syros and then on to Loutra on the island of Kythnos tying alongside the pier. Walking 100 meters we were at the natural hot spring that flows into the sea. While relaxing in the hot waters, a fish took a bite out of Con's shin! A charter boat left just before us, lifting the anchor of a large yacht, waking the occupants when their boat hit the concrete pier. The charter boat continued to be in distress, and dragged the yachts anchor chain, and then drifted into another sailboat's anchor chain. Underway, the sky opened and the rain fell so hard it was as if we were going through a car-wash. As quickly as it came, it left and an enormous rainbow filled the sky. We all agreed it was dad smiling at us.
October 29 -- After a hike up to the clock tower on Poros to take in the surrounding sea and beautiful red-roofed houses, we set off for Piraeus. We anticipated sunshine by the afternoon, over a smooth sea, with head-winds and instead we had another day of pounding into the waves head-on. Mom loved it all. She bundled in my Gill sailing suit and sat out in the cockpit. Approaching Athens, we heard the whistle blow and 150 sail boats were heading toward us with spinnakers flying in a regatta. Con did a figure eight dodging everybody. From the sea, we could see the Acropolis with the Parthenon shining brightly under the sun.
October 30 -- By subway we arrived in Monastiraki, the bazaar area in Athens, only 15 minutes from our boat. We wandered through the streets, filled with designer clothes and flea market items. Everywhere we looked, ancient ruins appeared in front of us. Early afternoon, we stopped in the shadow of the Acropolis and had lunch in a cozy restaurant. Rejuvenated, we walked a few hundred meters further and entered the New Acropolis Museum. On the fourth floor you're transported back in time to 400 BC. The Museum is surrounded by windows, with the south providing a perfect view of the Acropolis just outside the window.
October 31 -- On our last day, we visited the Acropolis, a highlight for mom, as she climbed up and down the rock face with ease exploring the ancient sights.
CANADA
November 1 -- Mom and I flew to Canada together. I landed in Calgary and mom carried on to Vancouver Island, an hour further. Meanwhile, Albertine, Jan, and Anne Marie (Con's sister, brother, and wife) joined Con aboard. Greece is having it's "small summer" and they all went for a swim. Con's report:
"We rose early for our 7 am departure, but our anchor fouled on an old anchor in the Hydra harbour. With a thirty-minute delay, we were finally untangled and set out over smooth water, until we rounded the northern tip and met a much rougher sea. Albertine was very sea sick. The wind reached 45 knots on the nose, with two-meter waves (steep and broadside). A new bottle of super concentrate detergent crashed on the laundry floor leaving a thick soapy mess all over the carpet. By 10 am, the conditions were too much, and we decided to return to Hydra. We raised the Genoa and had a good sail -- more stable. By 10:30, the VHF broadcasted gale warnings until 22:00, so the decision to turn back was the right one. We dropped the stern anchor in the harbour (literally) as the chain broke on our third try to anchor and it now resides at the bottom of the harbour. Trekked on to an anchorage but the Bruce (50 KG anchor) wouldn't hold. Set sail for Ermioni on the Peloponnese, 15 NM further. Sustained winds between 45 and 53 knots (force 9 & 10). Dropped the Bruce in the Ermioni small harbour and it stuck in the mud. We cleaned the carpet, and by 5 p.m., we were scouting out a restaurant."
November 13 -- Since Hailey had been sick (last May) with the Norwalk virus for her first birthday, we celebrated her 1.5 birthday starting with a puppet show by Lindsey and Courtney, presents, and cake. Meanwhile aboard Big Sky, Jan had his wallet lifted in Athens and thieves made off with 300 euro and his visa.
BACK IN GREECE
November 23 -- Within 18 hour, the temperatures I experienced went from -25 C in Calgary to + 25 C in Athens. Con met me at the airport with his arms open, welcoming me. We're in the Zea Marina in Piraeus, the Athens harbour and for 3.20 euro by bus you can get to the airport. There's a garbage strike in Athens and garbage is piling up like sky-scrapper high around the streets. Athens is an ancient city, with artifacts, architecture, people, graffiti, and with the garbage strike Con says, "The city is alive and real." We were leaving for Syria and the Middle East in a few weeks for Christmas and we needed a Visa from the Syrian Consulate to enter that country. Dodging garbage in the streets, we stepped onto the bus, then subway, and then by foot to the Canadian Embassy where we presented our "letter of introduction" as part of the process. We plan to enjoy Christmas in Syria and then carry on travelling through the Middle East by land. The only question the Syrian's at the embassy asked was, "Have you been to Israel?"
We responded, "No." Israel would be last so the Arab countries won't object to our visit. The cost for the Visa was 87 euro each. We have to return tomorrow to pick up our Syrian Visa stamped passports. We walked the long walk to the subway only to our dismay learn that it was locked up. The Metro was "on strike for four or five hours" said the attractive female officer adding, "there's anarchy downtown." Finally, by 4 pm the subway opened and we squished like sardines inside and then the same sardine squishing on the bus which dropped us outside the marina. What would have been a two-hour task took us eight hours. Every cloud has a silver lining... Being away from the boat spared us from the non-stop Greek Orthodox less- than-appealing drone-singing that penetrates into our boat from the church across the channel.
November 28 -- No one can ever call Con a 'slacker,' he's just finalized our trains, planes and automobiles for our BDA (Big Deal Adventure). We'll keep Big Sky on the hard from December to March and travel to:
* Syria for three weeks;
* Jordan for a few weeks;
* Germany for the international boat show;
* The Netherlands by train to visit family;
* Canada (Alberta to visit family, Saskatchewan to celebrate Nolan's third birthday);
* Victoria to visit mom;
* Reykjavik, Iceland for four days;
* Holland again; and then
* Big Sky.
March, we'll sail to Turkey and enjoy spring in the Black Sea.
November 1 -- Mom and I flew to Canada together. I landed in Calgary and mom carried on to Vancouver Island, an hour further. Meanwhile, Albertine, Jan, and Anne Marie (Con's sister, brother, and wife) joined Con aboard. Greece is having it's "small summer" and they all went for a swim. Con's report:
"We rose early for our 7 am departure, but our anchor fouled on an old anchor in the Hydra harbour. With a thirty-minute delay, we were finally untangled and set out over smooth water, until we rounded the northern tip and met a much rougher sea. Albertine was very sea sick. The wind reached 45 knots on the nose, with two-meter waves (steep and broadside). A new bottle of super concentrate detergent crashed on the laundry floor leaving a thick soapy mess all over the carpet. By 10 am, the conditions were too much, and we decided to return to Hydra. We raised the Genoa and had a good sail -- more stable. By 10:30, the VHF broadcasted gale warnings until 22:00, so the decision to turn back was the right one. We dropped the stern anchor in the harbour (literally) as the chain broke on our third try to anchor and it now resides at the bottom of the harbour. Trekked on to an anchorage but the Bruce (50 KG anchor) wouldn't hold. Set sail for Ermioni on the Peloponnese, 15 NM further. Sustained winds between 45 and 53 knots (force 9 & 10). Dropped the Bruce in the Ermioni small harbour and it stuck in the mud. We cleaned the carpet, and by 5 p.m., we were scouting out a restaurant."
November 13 -- Since Hailey had been sick (last May) with the Norwalk virus for her first birthday, we celebrated her 1.5 birthday starting with a puppet show by Lindsey and Courtney, presents, and cake. Meanwhile aboard Big Sky, Jan had his wallet lifted in Athens and thieves made off with 300 euro and his visa.
BACK IN GREECE
November 23 -- Within 18 hour, the temperatures I experienced went from -25 C in Calgary to + 25 C in Athens. Con met me at the airport with his arms open, welcoming me. We're in the Zea Marina in Piraeus, the Athens harbour and for 3.20 euro by bus you can get to the airport. There's a garbage strike in Athens and garbage is piling up like sky-scrapper high around the streets. Athens is an ancient city, with artifacts, architecture, people, graffiti, and with the garbage strike Con says, "The city is alive and real." We were leaving for Syria and the Middle East in a few weeks for Christmas and we needed a Visa from the Syrian Consulate to enter that country. Dodging garbage in the streets, we stepped onto the bus, then subway, and then by foot to the Canadian Embassy where we presented our "letter of introduction" as part of the process. We plan to enjoy Christmas in Syria and then carry on travelling through the Middle East by land. The only question the Syrian's at the embassy asked was, "Have you been to Israel?"
We responded, "No." Israel would be last so the Arab countries won't object to our visit. The cost for the Visa was 87 euro each. We have to return tomorrow to pick up our Syrian Visa stamped passports. We walked the long walk to the subway only to our dismay learn that it was locked up. The Metro was "on strike for four or five hours" said the attractive female officer adding, "there's anarchy downtown." Finally, by 4 pm the subway opened and we squished like sardines inside and then the same sardine squishing on the bus which dropped us outside the marina. What would have been a two-hour task took us eight hours. Every cloud has a silver lining... Being away from the boat spared us from the non-stop Greek Orthodox less- than-appealing drone-singing that penetrates into our boat from the church across the channel.
November 28 -- No one can ever call Con a 'slacker,' he's just finalized our trains, planes and automobiles for our BDA (Big Deal Adventure). We'll keep Big Sky on the hard from December to March and travel to:
* Syria for three weeks;
* Jordan for a few weeks;
* Germany for the international boat show;
* The Netherlands by train to visit family;
* Canada (Alberta to visit family, Saskatchewan to celebrate Nolan's third birthday);
* Victoria to visit mom;
* Reykjavik, Iceland for four days;
* Holland again; and then
* Big Sky.
March, we'll sail to Turkey and enjoy spring in the Black Sea.
Piraeus to Kilada
December 13 -- Piraeus to Ermioni. Weather has climbed back into the 20s, a change from the storm two days ago which dumped snow.
December 4 -- Piraeus is fantastic! We've taken a month's mooring at Zea Marina and then plan to sail south to Kilada to put Big Sky on the hard while we tour the Middle East. Piraeus is an isthmus with the major ferry harbour on one side, and Zea Marina on the other. A hill separates the two shorelines, with fabulous shopping in between. Christmas lights and decorations adorn the streets and lots of locals come out to shop, enjoy the markets, restaurants, cafes and the products the Nigerians sell, like socks, sun glasses, flashlights, purses, CD's, you-name-it. In Piraeus, there are a million small shops selling specific items. We stopped in one shop after another and were able to purchase almost all the little niggly items on our maintenance list like screen window clips and a riveting tool to attach them, fridge seal, LED lights to replace our halogen ones, a new engine room blower, and water tank level sensors and gages. As well, taps for the two bathrooms and kitchen; and labour (reupholstering for the pilot house cushions, professionals overhauling the sail and anchor winches, and fixing the cutter sail furling motor). The final item on our list is to purchase a new stern anchor to replace the one that currently resides at the bottom of Hydra's harbour.
December 7 -- One of Con's last maintenance tasks: changing engine oil filters. Once completed, he turned on the engine -- all's well. He hit the 'off' button, and nothing happened. With enough diesel to keep the boat running for a few days, Con raced out the companion way doors to find an engine mechanic. Within a few minutes he was back with a good-looking mechanic, with acid spilled holes in his dirty coveralls in the wrong places... if a person was to look. Thirty seconds later, the mechanic hit the 'kill' switch. He came back an hour later to fix it so it can turn off without using the "kill" switch.
December 8 -- Con said, "No thanks," to the Diesel Delivery Agent when he asked to 'do it for us.' Con filled 500 litres into our starboard tank, closed the valve to transfer the hose to the port side tank for the same fill, accidentally hit the 'open' valve and showered the two of us from head to foot with diesel. The Upside: price of diesel was good, 1.26 euro per litre.
December 12 -- What a difference a day makes! A winter weather system moved in on Greece yesterday, blowing 55 knots through the marina and with it snow. We put on our Gill winter sailing suits, tossed off the lines, and are currently under sail to Kilada, our lift out location. It will take us two days, and we plan to anchor in Ermioni, just over half way.
December 13 -- Ermioni to Kilada and the warm sunny weather has returned.
Below: Winter sail from Athens with snow in the mountains; arriving in the harbor of Ermioni.
December 13 -- Piraeus to Ermioni. Weather has climbed back into the 20s, a change from the storm two days ago which dumped snow.
December 4 -- Piraeus is fantastic! We've taken a month's mooring at Zea Marina and then plan to sail south to Kilada to put Big Sky on the hard while we tour the Middle East. Piraeus is an isthmus with the major ferry harbour on one side, and Zea Marina on the other. A hill separates the two shorelines, with fabulous shopping in between. Christmas lights and decorations adorn the streets and lots of locals come out to shop, enjoy the markets, restaurants, cafes and the products the Nigerians sell, like socks, sun glasses, flashlights, purses, CD's, you-name-it. In Piraeus, there are a million small shops selling specific items. We stopped in one shop after another and were able to purchase almost all the little niggly items on our maintenance list like screen window clips and a riveting tool to attach them, fridge seal, LED lights to replace our halogen ones, a new engine room blower, and water tank level sensors and gages. As well, taps for the two bathrooms and kitchen; and labour (reupholstering for the pilot house cushions, professionals overhauling the sail and anchor winches, and fixing the cutter sail furling motor). The final item on our list is to purchase a new stern anchor to replace the one that currently resides at the bottom of Hydra's harbour.
December 7 -- One of Con's last maintenance tasks: changing engine oil filters. Once completed, he turned on the engine -- all's well. He hit the 'off' button, and nothing happened. With enough diesel to keep the boat running for a few days, Con raced out the companion way doors to find an engine mechanic. Within a few minutes he was back with a good-looking mechanic, with acid spilled holes in his dirty coveralls in the wrong places... if a person was to look. Thirty seconds later, the mechanic hit the 'kill' switch. He came back an hour later to fix it so it can turn off without using the "kill" switch.
December 8 -- Con said, "No thanks," to the Diesel Delivery Agent when he asked to 'do it for us.' Con filled 500 litres into our starboard tank, closed the valve to transfer the hose to the port side tank for the same fill, accidentally hit the 'open' valve and showered the two of us from head to foot with diesel. The Upside: price of diesel was good, 1.26 euro per litre.
December 12 -- What a difference a day makes! A winter weather system moved in on Greece yesterday, blowing 55 knots through the marina and with it snow. We put on our Gill winter sailing suits, tossed off the lines, and are currently under sail to Kilada, our lift out location. It will take us two days, and we plan to anchor in Ermioni, just over half way.
December 13 -- Ermioni to Kilada and the warm sunny weather has returned.
Below: Winter sail from Athens with snow in the mountains; arriving in the harbor of Ermioni.
The Mama Mia wedding chapel is situated at the top of this rock. A spectacular view!
The pretty island of Lesvos below (two videos) after we climbed up the castle.