2014 Diaries
Our 2014 sailing season began in January when we left Portugal at midnight for our Atlantic crossing, and saw us returning due to horrendous weather. Once back in Lagos, Portugal our Atlantic crossing aborted, we sailed to Spain, Tunisia, Sicily, through the Greek islands to Cyprus where we wintered. By land, we drove through the avalanche prone Canadian highway from Vancouver Island through the Rocky Mountains to Calgary. In Spain, we drove through the Basque country. July, we flew to Tanzania for a safari adventure of a lifetime. See Off the Beaten Track.
Our 2014 sailing season began in January when we left Portugal at midnight for our Atlantic crossing, and saw us returning due to horrendous weather. Once back in Lagos, Portugal our Atlantic crossing aborted, we sailed to Spain, Tunisia, Sicily, through the Greek islands to Cyprus where we wintered. By land, we drove through the avalanche prone Canadian highway from Vancouver Island through the Rocky Mountains to Calgary. In Spain, we drove through the Basque country. July, we flew to Tanzania for a safari adventure of a lifetime. See Off the Beaten Track.
January 1, 2014 – With a heavy heart I share with our readers that my sweet mom passed away gracefully December 27, 2013 from a series of strokes. No one knew she was having them, as the doctors couldn't find evidence. She died peacefully in her sleep, and her last words: “I’ve had a great life and I’m ready to go.”
January 18 – Following an exhausting and emotional few weeks of sorting through mom and dad’s nearly 90 years of memorabilia, Con and I loaded up an SUV rental and drove some of their things to the grand kids in Alberta. Mom had information notes and stories taped to the bottom of various dishes, china, and crystal, and inside the original box holding her 1935 Shirley Temple doll she received as a girl. It's been a wonderful walk through her past, but so very hard to do without her. For instance, a taped note on the back of a dish said, “This 1917 dish was my moms. She purchased it at the train station waiting for her brother to return from the WWI.” Mom’s beautiful house is now empty and for sale; most of the Executor leg work has been completed. Con and I will return from Alberta the last week of January to finalize things, and then fly back to Portugal to attempt our Atlantic crossing again.
January 18 – Following an exhausting and emotional few weeks of sorting through mom and dad’s nearly 90 years of memorabilia, Con and I loaded up an SUV rental and drove some of their things to the grand kids in Alberta. Mom had information notes and stories taped to the bottom of various dishes, china, and crystal, and inside the original box holding her 1935 Shirley Temple doll she received as a girl. It's been a wonderful walk through her past, but so very hard to do without her. For instance, a taped note on the back of a dish said, “This 1917 dish was my moms. She purchased it at the train station waiting for her brother to return from the WWI.” Mom’s beautiful house is now empty and for sale; most of the Executor leg work has been completed. Con and I will return from Alberta the last week of January to finalize things, and then fly back to Portugal to attempt our Atlantic crossing again.
BACK ON VANCOUVER ISLAND
January 28 -- Today four years ago, my dad passed away. One month and one day ago, mom passed away peacefully. It's sad losing the two people that I've loved the longest. I hope they are enjoying their reunion.
Our return to Vancouver Island from Alberta wasn't for the faint of heart. We left Sunday afternoon, and reached the mountain passes at 4 pm as darkness blanketed us. Parts of the highway through mountains have only two lanes and hug the sides of the mountains. The highway was made more narrow with snow plowed off the roads from numerous avalanches filling up the shoulders. With the dirt and mud, the snow piles lining the highway looked like a brown camouflaged walls making it confusing to distinguish between the highway and the dirty snow wall. Big flakes were falling, and then fog surrounded us making driving nearly impossible, and nowhere to turn off. We lowered our headlight beam to attempt better visibility, all the while on full alert through the “Caution Extreme Avalanche Zone” areas. About an hour into the stressful drive, our headlights had nearly completely filled with mud and dirt giving off no light and of course, there are no highway lights in the mountains. We felt we were in a death trap, anxious to find a “pull over” piece on the highway, but the ones we passed were piled with plowed avalanche snow. And then it got worse. A bully-truck driver rode our tail, blinding us further by flashing his high beams. He'd speed up, then slow down. At one point, with him meters from our bumper, I spotted a dimly lit pull over area (thanks to his lights) and shouted, “TURN OFF HERE!” We did, but not without anticipating that the truck would hit our tail. He didn’t. Shaking, we got out, used the snow to clean our lights and decided to keep going. There was a small town was up ahead. We got there in one piece, and checked in. It was a bus-stop hotel with condom wrappers under the bed, but we were incredibly grateful to have arrived and slept. Rising early, and under a big blue sky, we drove what could be Canada’s most beautiful highway, passing a moose, and slowing for a herd of long-horned sheep to cross the highway.
With just a few days remaining on Vancouver Island we finalized mom’s estate. I’ve found a place within my soul to gently place my memories of mom and dad and all the many joyful times we shared, and so much laughter. I’ll sure miss the laughter.
January 28 -- Today four years ago, my dad passed away. One month and one day ago, mom passed away peacefully. It's sad losing the two people that I've loved the longest. I hope they are enjoying their reunion.
Our return to Vancouver Island from Alberta wasn't for the faint of heart. We left Sunday afternoon, and reached the mountain passes at 4 pm as darkness blanketed us. Parts of the highway through mountains have only two lanes and hug the sides of the mountains. The highway was made more narrow with snow plowed off the roads from numerous avalanches filling up the shoulders. With the dirt and mud, the snow piles lining the highway looked like a brown camouflaged walls making it confusing to distinguish between the highway and the dirty snow wall. Big flakes were falling, and then fog surrounded us making driving nearly impossible, and nowhere to turn off. We lowered our headlight beam to attempt better visibility, all the while on full alert through the “Caution Extreme Avalanche Zone” areas. About an hour into the stressful drive, our headlights had nearly completely filled with mud and dirt giving off no light and of course, there are no highway lights in the mountains. We felt we were in a death trap, anxious to find a “pull over” piece on the highway, but the ones we passed were piled with plowed avalanche snow. And then it got worse. A bully-truck driver rode our tail, blinding us further by flashing his high beams. He'd speed up, then slow down. At one point, with him meters from our bumper, I spotted a dimly lit pull over area (thanks to his lights) and shouted, “TURN OFF HERE!” We did, but not without anticipating that the truck would hit our tail. He didn’t. Shaking, we got out, used the snow to clean our lights and decided to keep going. There was a small town was up ahead. We got there in one piece, and checked in. It was a bus-stop hotel with condom wrappers under the bed, but we were incredibly grateful to have arrived and slept. Rising early, and under a big blue sky, we drove what could be Canada’s most beautiful highway, passing a moose, and slowing for a herd of long-horned sheep to cross the highway.
With just a few days remaining on Vancouver Island we finalized mom’s estate. I’ve found a place within my soul to gently place my memories of mom and dad and all the many joyful times we shared, and so much laughter. I’ll sure miss the laughter.
February 2 – Mom's House is Sold
We booked into a waterfront one-bedroom hotel room at The Pier in Sidney because mom's house is now empty. Thanks to Con for leading the efforts to sell mom’s house privately, we received an offer and I signed the deal just hours before our flight to Portugal.
IN PORTUGAL
On an evening flight from The Netherlands, Geert, Con’s brother stepped out of the Lisbon arrivals gate to be our third member of our four-member Atlantic crossing. We took a hotel room for the night and will collect Hugo, another Sprenger brother who will join us from Vancouver Island as our fourth and final crew. In a rental, we drove to Big Sky, climbed aboard on the hard, and waited for the right weather to lower her in the ocean to begin sea trials. Geert, Hugo, and Con tested the newly purchased gennaker, first laying it out in a field and fitting the snubber slip in place. Sail makers have checked the mast and rigging, and they’re ready. The last task was to return the rental car, which we left at the yard, a nautical mile or so up the river. The three boys got into our new light-weight dingy and 15 minutes later returned to Big Sky soaking wet. Rub a dub dub three men in a ... dingy. Since it can’t even hold three men, the new light-weight dingy was rewrapped and returned for a bigger one with twice the weight!
February 6th -- Happy Birthday Con!
Con's sister, Anna along with Willem flew to Portimao for our Atlantic send-off, spoiling Con with a birthday breakfast in their room overlooking Big Sky. Departure was delayed as nasty winter weather continues to steamroll across the North Atlantic slamming into the Bay of Biscay and carrying on down the Portuguese coast, pushing enormous waves 5-6 meter waves south to Morocco. The distant future does not provide a weather window for our 4-6 day crossing to the Canary Islands.
February 10 – Now ten days waiting to depart, all we see on the forecast is increasingly stronger winds (50+ NM) and higher seas. The four of us drove to Sangres, the furthest point west on the European continent and stood high on the cliffs watching the massive waves crash into the craggy shoreline. The video of Big Sky in the Portimao River. (Purple colour is 50 NM+ winds)
We booked into a waterfront one-bedroom hotel room at The Pier in Sidney because mom's house is now empty. Thanks to Con for leading the efforts to sell mom’s house privately, we received an offer and I signed the deal just hours before our flight to Portugal.
IN PORTUGAL
On an evening flight from The Netherlands, Geert, Con’s brother stepped out of the Lisbon arrivals gate to be our third member of our four-member Atlantic crossing. We took a hotel room for the night and will collect Hugo, another Sprenger brother who will join us from Vancouver Island as our fourth and final crew. In a rental, we drove to Big Sky, climbed aboard on the hard, and waited for the right weather to lower her in the ocean to begin sea trials. Geert, Hugo, and Con tested the newly purchased gennaker, first laying it out in a field and fitting the snubber slip in place. Sail makers have checked the mast and rigging, and they’re ready. The last task was to return the rental car, which we left at the yard, a nautical mile or so up the river. The three boys got into our new light-weight dingy and 15 minutes later returned to Big Sky soaking wet. Rub a dub dub three men in a ... dingy. Since it can’t even hold three men, the new light-weight dingy was rewrapped and returned for a bigger one with twice the weight!
February 6th -- Happy Birthday Con!
Con's sister, Anna along with Willem flew to Portimao for our Atlantic send-off, spoiling Con with a birthday breakfast in their room overlooking Big Sky. Departure was delayed as nasty winter weather continues to steamroll across the North Atlantic slamming into the Bay of Biscay and carrying on down the Portuguese coast, pushing enormous waves 5-6 meter waves south to Morocco. The distant future does not provide a weather window for our 4-6 day crossing to the Canary Islands.
February 10 – Now ten days waiting to depart, all we see on the forecast is increasingly stronger winds (50+ NM) and higher seas. The four of us drove to Sangres, the furthest point west on the European continent and stood high on the cliffs watching the massive waves crash into the craggy shoreline. The video of Big Sky in the Portimao River. (Purple colour is 50 NM+ winds)
ATTEMPTED CROSSING
February 13 – A tiny weather window seemed to be possible if we left at midnight enduring a horrible head wind and high seas for a few days, with an easing expected nearer to the Canaries. The four of us discussed it and decided to do it.
However, our anticipated 95-hour sail from Portimao to the Canary Islands was a disaster with half the crew sick and the other half pretending they weren’t. I wore a patch behind my ear to ward off the sea sickness and it did help. Hugo was sick from the moment we left the breakwater at the river’s mouth, and became dangerously sicker near coma like as the hours passed. Five and six meter waves crashed against Big Sky and sometimes aboard, all the while we fought 25 - 30 knot head winds. At times, Big Sky disappeared deep in the valley of six meter waves frighteningly sandwiched like an ant in the middle. I promised SPOT checks every six – eight hours, for our family, but couldn’t find a stable area to hold the unit long enough to get a satellite fix. No one was going outside of the pilot house in the conditions. With great effort, I made my way from the stateroom to the V-berth to check on Hugo who was cool and clammy, barely responding. On the 28th hour, when Con and I were in the cockpit together. Albertine sent a weather message through our satellite phone, "Conditions were becoming worse and there will not be a safe port to anchor once you arrive". We made the wise decision to turn around. We knew prolonged sea sickness can send a person into shock. Con and Geert have stomachs of steel, but they were noticeably uncomfortable too, especially taking some of my watch and splitting Hugo’s watch between them. We woke Geert to tell him we were turning around, and managed to put up some sail to stabilize the boat. We travelled 185 NM in total, only to return and dock In Lagos, 8.5 NM from our departure. On the bright side, Geert saw a whale.
February 13 – A tiny weather window seemed to be possible if we left at midnight enduring a horrible head wind and high seas for a few days, with an easing expected nearer to the Canaries. The four of us discussed it and decided to do it.
However, our anticipated 95-hour sail from Portimao to the Canary Islands was a disaster with half the crew sick and the other half pretending they weren’t. I wore a patch behind my ear to ward off the sea sickness and it did help. Hugo was sick from the moment we left the breakwater at the river’s mouth, and became dangerously sicker near coma like as the hours passed. Five and six meter waves crashed against Big Sky and sometimes aboard, all the while we fought 25 - 30 knot head winds. At times, Big Sky disappeared deep in the valley of six meter waves frighteningly sandwiched like an ant in the middle. I promised SPOT checks every six – eight hours, for our family, but couldn’t find a stable area to hold the unit long enough to get a satellite fix. No one was going outside of the pilot house in the conditions. With great effort, I made my way from the stateroom to the V-berth to check on Hugo who was cool and clammy, barely responding. On the 28th hour, when Con and I were in the cockpit together. Albertine sent a weather message through our satellite phone, "Conditions were becoming worse and there will not be a safe port to anchor once you arrive". We made the wise decision to turn around. We knew prolonged sea sickness can send a person into shock. Con and Geert have stomachs of steel, but they were noticeably uncomfortable too, especially taking some of my watch and splitting Hugo’s watch between them. We woke Geert to tell him we were turning around, and managed to put up some sail to stabilize the boat. We travelled 185 NM in total, only to return and dock In Lagos, 8.5 NM from our departure. On the bright side, Geert saw a whale.
February 14 -- Happy Valentine's Day!
Hugo departed this morning by bus to Lisbon for his flight back to Vancouver Island. Geert leaves at noon. I told "the boys" it was like reaching Base Camp when we attempted to climb Mt. Everest. No regrets from the crew; we were all in agreement that returning was the best plan.
February 18 -- Con and I have now settled into the Lagos marina for the winter season. The force of nature had the final say. Weather for the crossing this year has been odd. Many cruisers shared their 2014 crossing and failed crossings (returning).
February 22 -- Now that we've joined the "Almost Crossed Club" and settled back into southern Portugal, we decided to get back to being tourists. Yesterday, we packed a bag for five days, hopped on the train from Lagos to Lisbon and moved into a beautiful hotel that was once a palace. Checking in, the gentleman at the front desk gave us the card key for the second floor. Con asked, "Do you have anything higher?" He responded discretely, "Sir, Madam, I'm sure you won't be disappointed. I've upgraded you to the President's Suite." During high season, it's 1,000 euro's per night! We opened the front door to the room were greeted by two-story high ceilings, four 36-foot high French doors. The suite is spectacular with two rooms (one a ballroom-like arrangement), both rooms with portraits on the walls, drapes with hundreds of meters of layered cloth, floor to ceiling mirrors, fresh flowers, arching windows, a dressing room and closet. Walking the streets, we stumbled into a crowd waiting for the Prime Minister of Portugal to arrive. Con and I positioned ourselves right beside the body guards and security personnel and nobody seemed to think we should not be there.
February 24 -- Four-hour walking tour of Lisbon!
From a local’s perspective, we saw the sights of Lisbon on a free walking tour. Our guide, a 25-year-old man led us to some of Lisbon’s coolest places telling stories and sharing its history, stories, culture, sounds, smells... We saw some out-of-the-way places we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. A rude tourist passed us and under his breath, but loud enough for us to hear said, “baa baa” as if we were sheep. I thought the joke was on him, since it was one of the best walking tours we’d taken.
Pictured: Rafael our tour guide showing us a typical Portuguese man of 45 looks like. The cap, moustache, and a flirtatious smile and look on his eyes. Check his left hand, it's ready to pinch a woman! And, a statue paying tribute to an opium-addicted Portuguese poet.
Hugo departed this morning by bus to Lisbon for his flight back to Vancouver Island. Geert leaves at noon. I told "the boys" it was like reaching Base Camp when we attempted to climb Mt. Everest. No regrets from the crew; we were all in agreement that returning was the best plan.
February 18 -- Con and I have now settled into the Lagos marina for the winter season. The force of nature had the final say. Weather for the crossing this year has been odd. Many cruisers shared their 2014 crossing and failed crossings (returning).
February 22 -- Now that we've joined the "Almost Crossed Club" and settled back into southern Portugal, we decided to get back to being tourists. Yesterday, we packed a bag for five days, hopped on the train from Lagos to Lisbon and moved into a beautiful hotel that was once a palace. Checking in, the gentleman at the front desk gave us the card key for the second floor. Con asked, "Do you have anything higher?" He responded discretely, "Sir, Madam, I'm sure you won't be disappointed. I've upgraded you to the President's Suite." During high season, it's 1,000 euro's per night! We opened the front door to the room were greeted by two-story high ceilings, four 36-foot high French doors. The suite is spectacular with two rooms (one a ballroom-like arrangement), both rooms with portraits on the walls, drapes with hundreds of meters of layered cloth, floor to ceiling mirrors, fresh flowers, arching windows, a dressing room and closet. Walking the streets, we stumbled into a crowd waiting for the Prime Minister of Portugal to arrive. Con and I positioned ourselves right beside the body guards and security personnel and nobody seemed to think we should not be there.
February 24 -- Four-hour walking tour of Lisbon!
From a local’s perspective, we saw the sights of Lisbon on a free walking tour. Our guide, a 25-year-old man led us to some of Lisbon’s coolest places telling stories and sharing its history, stories, culture, sounds, smells... We saw some out-of-the-way places we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. A rude tourist passed us and under his breath, but loud enough for us to hear said, “baa baa” as if we were sheep. I thought the joke was on him, since it was one of the best walking tours we’d taken.
Pictured: Rafael our tour guide showing us a typical Portuguese man of 45 looks like. The cap, moustache, and a flirtatious smile and look on his eyes. Check his left hand, it's ready to pinch a woman! And, a statue paying tribute to an opium-addicted Portuguese poet.
Going Down Under!
February 23 -- While pampering ourselves in Lisbon, taking in good music, food, fantastic sights, and Olympic hockey games on TV, we came up with a plan to fly to Australia and check out the sailing situation there. It would be a way to switch our seasons. In other words, when it’s winter in Australia, we can return to our family in Canada in the summer. (Con lived in Australia in his early 20s for a few years.) We took the train back to Big Sky and refreshed our suitcases for the next two months of travel in this order: Portugal, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and The Netherlands, and Portugal, packing for two completely different climates.
February 23 -- While pampering ourselves in Lisbon, taking in good music, food, fantastic sights, and Olympic hockey games on TV, we came up with a plan to fly to Australia and check out the sailing situation there. It would be a way to switch our seasons. In other words, when it’s winter in Australia, we can return to our family in Canada in the summer. (Con lived in Australia in his early 20s for a few years.) We took the train back to Big Sky and refreshed our suitcases for the next two months of travel in this order: Portugal, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and The Netherlands, and Portugal, packing for two completely different climates.
Australia to Canada to The Netherlands back to Portugal
April 21 – Following two months of travel we returned via Canada and The Netherlands back to the boat in Portugal. In Canada, we drove through snow – again – in fact, we visited Canada in October, December, January, and now April, each month the country was covered in snow. In The Netherlands, we drove through a snow storm to get to a family celebration, Nomie’s 98th birthday and an Easter Egg Hunt.
BACK ON THE BOAT
April 25, 2014 and we're still contemplating our next move...
Perched on the edge of Western Europe, in the pretty town of Lagos Portugal, we’re still pondering whether to cross the Atlantic next season, put Big Sky on a freighter to South East Asia, or do more Mediterranean sailing. Our seven years aboard have taken us to 51 countries, 5 continents, The Baltic Sea, Atlantic, Mediterranean, the Black Sea, and 100 NM up the Danube River. We’ve visited nearly every country bordering those waters except Algeria, Egypt, Lebanon, and The Ukraine.
April 27, 2014 -- Gentle winds rocked us awake at the lazy hour of 8:45, a luxury given our recent broken jet-lagged sleep. Our pace has slowed, in an unusual way. Previous springs, we're scurrying around anxious to outfit the boat from its winter stay and set off to catch the fresh breezes to new adventures. Coming very close to putting Big Sky on a freighter leaving from Genoa this fall, we changed gears and decided to head back into the Med. It’s a bit like watching a movie for the second time, but what a great movie.
April 21 – Following two months of travel we returned via Canada and The Netherlands back to the boat in Portugal. In Canada, we drove through snow – again – in fact, we visited Canada in October, December, January, and now April, each month the country was covered in snow. In The Netherlands, we drove through a snow storm to get to a family celebration, Nomie’s 98th birthday and an Easter Egg Hunt.
BACK ON THE BOAT
April 25, 2014 and we're still contemplating our next move...
Perched on the edge of Western Europe, in the pretty town of Lagos Portugal, we’re still pondering whether to cross the Atlantic next season, put Big Sky on a freighter to South East Asia, or do more Mediterranean sailing. Our seven years aboard have taken us to 51 countries, 5 continents, The Baltic Sea, Atlantic, Mediterranean, the Black Sea, and 100 NM up the Danube River. We’ve visited nearly every country bordering those waters except Algeria, Egypt, Lebanon, and The Ukraine.
April 27, 2014 -- Gentle winds rocked us awake at the lazy hour of 8:45, a luxury given our recent broken jet-lagged sleep. Our pace has slowed, in an unusual way. Previous springs, we're scurrying around anxious to outfit the boat from its winter stay and set off to catch the fresh breezes to new adventures. Coming very close to putting Big Sky on a freighter leaving from Genoa this fall, we changed gears and decided to head back into the Med. It’s a bit like watching a movie for the second time, but what a great movie.
April 30 – Living Aboard in Portugal The sun shines every day but the northerly winds are strong and cool, but still in shorts and t-shirts. When the wind took a break, we gave our new gennaker a try while tied at the marina. Having it made in and shipped from Hong Kong, it came with no instructions, but with the help of YouTube we managed to get most of it up, but then the wind started picking up and we dropped the chute to cover the fragile 160 square meters. The thin material flapping around the mast and rigging in the marine is a bad idea. Last night, Con invited me out on a date to the local pub (which he admits was self-serving, since he wanted to see the second semi-final major European soccer (football) competition. Two wines, two beer, a bacon/cheese hamburger with fries, and the bill came to 13.30 euro. We plan to splurge again tonight and watch yet another game, this time trying out a different pub. Prices are so hard to beat here. Dropping mending at a seamstress shop: a new button on Con's jeans, a pair of Lulu lemons hemmed, and a window cover for the boat mended, the cost came to 11 euro. In all fairness we should add 1.20 for drinks since we had to wait for the seamstress to finish her lunch in the cafe next door. In the weekly supermarket sales flyer: Beer 6.49 euro for a case of 20, 250 ml bottles, oranges 74 cents a kilo (but we buy these on the street at 40 cent a kilo), Mango's 2.17 a kilo, beef tenderloin 12.50 a kilo, pork tenderloin 4.95 a kilo, fresh buns 18 cents each.
We culled our closets and cupboards making a donation to the local charity.
Finally, we’ve made a decision. We will sail back into the Med, going as far as Valencia where we’ll stop for the summer and Courtney and Hailey will join us. We’re all planning a few dental visits, since the price is excellent, a third of the cost in Canada.
We culled our closets and cupboards making a donation to the local charity.
Finally, we’ve made a decision. We will sail back into the Med, going as far as Valencia where we’ll stop for the summer and Courtney and Hailey will join us. We’re all planning a few dental visits, since the price is excellent, a third of the cost in Canada.
May 12, 2014-- Ellen, my good friend from Calgary, her hubby Dave, and son Alex, living in Berlin joined us aboard for a Mother's Day sail. We left Lagos via the river, heading toward the grottos and within ten minutes, six large dolphins visited us at our bow. We set sail on a beam reach east toward the Portimao River dropping anchor in the river and taking Little Sky to shore for lunch. Our first try anchoring didn’t set as the river was too strong and our anchor dragged. We sat under a wicker umbrella enjoying the delicious food. I had a smoked salmon burger.
May 14 -- HAPPY Birthday Hailey, our granddaughter turns five today -- five years of joyfulness.
May 16 – Con replaced a switch on the water pump and I walked the river boardwalk to the grotto soaking in the beauty. Temperatures by day rise to a consistent mid-30 range. Each day we have been watching the progress of the baby storks grow as the parents take turns guarding the nest from the sea gulls who seem to arrive every day about 5 pm diving at the babies. Each day they grow a little bigger and harder for the gulls to attack.
Below: Hailey's fifth party; entrance into Lagos; Con getting the gennaker ready
May 14 -- HAPPY Birthday Hailey, our granddaughter turns five today -- five years of joyfulness.
May 16 – Con replaced a switch on the water pump and I walked the river boardwalk to the grotto soaking in the beauty. Temperatures by day rise to a consistent mid-30 range. Each day we have been watching the progress of the baby storks grow as the parents take turns guarding the nest from the sea gulls who seem to arrive every day about 5 pm diving at the babies. Each day they grow a little bigger and harder for the gulls to attack.
Below: Hailey's fifth party; entrance into Lagos; Con getting the gennaker ready
2014 Season: Finally underway
May 17 – 21 -- We peeled ourselves away from Lagos in the morning, on a four-hour bumpy ride to Albufeira. It’s a quirky marina with surrounding architecture dubbed, "Legoland" due to the yellow, pink, blue four-story tourist villas and condos climbing nearly out of the marina waters. It was a pleasantly quiet night, for 21 euros. At 9 am we set off for Olhao, (up a river) but when realizing our plastic dodger window had too much UV damage, we mistakenly rerouted to Villamoura hoping for a new dodger window from the sailmaker, but they were closed on Sunday. The next day, we set a route to the pretty Portuguese border town, Villa Real de Santo Antonio. Each hour that passed, the winds rose higher and along with it the sea. After a seven-hour journey, we arrived at the marina and tied to a pier on the fast-moving Rio Guadiana. Con swung Big Sky around in the tiny space within the marina, nose to the wind, in 49-knot winds and we managed to secure the boat using every fender and line we owned. The rising river began ebbing at six pm giving the lines a short break, however, the winds held at 40 knots through the night.
May 19 -- Remembering Larry Radu with love. He would have been 62, pictured below with Lindsey and Courtney in the 80s.
The high wind petered out by morning, and while the tide was running gently out we took our leave down the river and 64.5 NM along the Spanish coast. By 4:30 pm, 9.5 hours later, we pulled up to the visitor's pier in the Rota Marina on the west side of the Bay of Cadiz. I checked us in for two nights, and we quickly made our way to our slip before the anticipated big winds arrived. It just started to blow as we tied on, and that night it howled, blowing gusts in the 40s and 50s. A strong clean north rain arrived too, washing down the boat. Rota is a pretty Spanish town. We purchased good-priced internet, stocked the fridge, and toured the Spanish/Arabic town. History here tumbles on top of each other.
May 17 – 21 -- We peeled ourselves away from Lagos in the morning, on a four-hour bumpy ride to Albufeira. It’s a quirky marina with surrounding architecture dubbed, "Legoland" due to the yellow, pink, blue four-story tourist villas and condos climbing nearly out of the marina waters. It was a pleasantly quiet night, for 21 euros. At 9 am we set off for Olhao, (up a river) but when realizing our plastic dodger window had too much UV damage, we mistakenly rerouted to Villamoura hoping for a new dodger window from the sailmaker, but they were closed on Sunday. The next day, we set a route to the pretty Portuguese border town, Villa Real de Santo Antonio. Each hour that passed, the winds rose higher and along with it the sea. After a seven-hour journey, we arrived at the marina and tied to a pier on the fast-moving Rio Guadiana. Con swung Big Sky around in the tiny space within the marina, nose to the wind, in 49-knot winds and we managed to secure the boat using every fender and line we owned. The rising river began ebbing at six pm giving the lines a short break, however, the winds held at 40 knots through the night.
May 19 -- Remembering Larry Radu with love. He would have been 62, pictured below with Lindsey and Courtney in the 80s.
The high wind petered out by morning, and while the tide was running gently out we took our leave down the river and 64.5 NM along the Spanish coast. By 4:30 pm, 9.5 hours later, we pulled up to the visitor's pier in the Rota Marina on the west side of the Bay of Cadiz. I checked us in for two nights, and we quickly made our way to our slip before the anticipated big winds arrived. It just started to blow as we tied on, and that night it howled, blowing gusts in the 40s and 50s. A strong clean north rain arrived too, washing down the boat. Rota is a pretty Spanish town. We purchased good-priced internet, stocked the fridge, and toured the Spanish/Arabic town. History here tumbles on top of each other.
Rota, Barbate, Gibraltar, Fuegerolia, Marina del Este
May 22 – It seems cruisers mistakenly bypass Rota. The city has a vast beach with a tiled boardwalk lined with planters and seating, and pretty views of white-washed alleyways. The next day we prepared the gennaker anticipating light following winds. Once on the water, Con coaxed it out of the condom-like slip and I pulled on the halyard and up she went. The sky was filling with red and white, and then... as if in slow motion... the water was blanketed in red and white. We scrambled to collect the massive soppy material back aboard. A small piece holding it together at the top of the mast tore out from the shackle leaving the shackle and halyard line at the top of the main mast. That would have been a disaster if we’d hoisted it during our crossing, as someone would have had to get in the bosum chair and retrieve it from the top of the main. We motor sailed to Barbate under warm sunny skies, passing Cape Trefalgar. That's where Napoléon was defeated by the Royal Navy led by Admiral Nelson 109 years ago. Nelson was mortally wounded, but with 27 ships he defeated 33 (French and Spanish). The trickiest part of our day’s journey was nearing the historic battleground since there's a shoal that shallows up to 1.8 meters.
It was just about at this spot that we saw something very large floating toward us. We'd been listening to a PAN PAN all day, where a wooden sailboat was missing in the Strait of Gibraltar with six people aboard. I thought this was a bloated person, because it has arms and legs. It was an enormous dead turtle.
May 24 – Glorious wind filled our sails and along with the current, we soared at 9.5 knots toward Gibraltar through the narrow part of water separating Africa from Europe and where the Mediterranean begins. A sail surfer slipped up behind us from seemly nowhere cut deathly close across our bow! Morocco is seen just behind him. An hour later, we were sandwiched between a dozen sail boats in a race. Spain behind them. A VHF message in the morning warned us to keep a sharp look out for a swimmer hoping for a swimming record, leaving Spain for Africa across the Strait of Gibraltar. While in Gibraltar, we filled up on diesel saving 60 euro cents per litre. Our stay was in La Linea, the Spanish marina. The next day we moved on to Fuegerolia, and then to the pretty Marina del Este, which comes at a steep price, nice staff, and a bottle of red wine. We stepped off the boat and enjoyed a fabulous plate of grilled fish at a table looking out at Big Sky, the harbour and pretty surroundings. A gale blew in overnight and rising early to catch some of the wind, an egret joined us in our cockpit while we sipped our cappuccinos.
May 22 – It seems cruisers mistakenly bypass Rota. The city has a vast beach with a tiled boardwalk lined with planters and seating, and pretty views of white-washed alleyways. The next day we prepared the gennaker anticipating light following winds. Once on the water, Con coaxed it out of the condom-like slip and I pulled on the halyard and up she went. The sky was filling with red and white, and then... as if in slow motion... the water was blanketed in red and white. We scrambled to collect the massive soppy material back aboard. A small piece holding it together at the top of the mast tore out from the shackle leaving the shackle and halyard line at the top of the main mast. That would have been a disaster if we’d hoisted it during our crossing, as someone would have had to get in the bosum chair and retrieve it from the top of the main. We motor sailed to Barbate under warm sunny skies, passing Cape Trefalgar. That's where Napoléon was defeated by the Royal Navy led by Admiral Nelson 109 years ago. Nelson was mortally wounded, but with 27 ships he defeated 33 (French and Spanish). The trickiest part of our day’s journey was nearing the historic battleground since there's a shoal that shallows up to 1.8 meters.
It was just about at this spot that we saw something very large floating toward us. We'd been listening to a PAN PAN all day, where a wooden sailboat was missing in the Strait of Gibraltar with six people aboard. I thought this was a bloated person, because it has arms and legs. It was an enormous dead turtle.
May 24 – Glorious wind filled our sails and along with the current, we soared at 9.5 knots toward Gibraltar through the narrow part of water separating Africa from Europe and where the Mediterranean begins. A sail surfer slipped up behind us from seemly nowhere cut deathly close across our bow! Morocco is seen just behind him. An hour later, we were sandwiched between a dozen sail boats in a race. Spain behind them. A VHF message in the morning warned us to keep a sharp look out for a swimmer hoping for a swimming record, leaving Spain for Africa across the Strait of Gibraltar. While in Gibraltar, we filled up on diesel saving 60 euro cents per litre. Our stay was in La Linea, the Spanish marina. The next day we moved on to Fuegerolia, and then to the pretty Marina del Este, which comes at a steep price, nice staff, and a bottle of red wine. We stepped off the boat and enjoyed a fabulous plate of grilled fish at a table looking out at Big Sky, the harbour and pretty surroundings. A gale blew in overnight and rising early to catch some of the wind, an egret joined us in our cockpit while we sipped our cappuccinos.
May 31 -- Along the Coasta Blanca
The winds we set off in continued to push up massive following swells, and when the forecast 20 knots became 50, we detoured to the Adra fishing harbour. Winds howled around us as we motored through the harbour confused about where to secure ourselves and no one around to guide us. We selected an abandoned pier but knew it would be difficult with the wind. Con motored straight toward the pier with me dangling off the bow ladder holding a heavy line and when we were just close enough, I took a giant leap of faith landing in a thick layer of bird poo that covered the length of the pier! Hundreds of seagulls owned the pier and a few moved aside to watch. Slipping in the white goo-poo, I tied the bow, Con tossed the stern line, attached his end to the winch and pulled us in.
The next day we moved on to Aguadulce "sweet water" and washed off the seagull residue and filled the tanks and enjoyed the pretty town for a few days. Walking barefoot in the sand -- for a few seconds -- until the sand burned the bottoms of our feet and we sprinted into the sea. Summer is coming.
By bus, we toured Alicante arriviing for their colourful Spanish celebration with marching drummers, singers, dancers, and lots of clapping. Two oxen pulled a cart filled with flowers. This little girl posed for me when I asked her and told her she was muy bonita. Con proudly handling the oxen.
June 1, 2014 -- My dad would have been 89 today. Remembering him with a great big smile. Love you forever dad!
The winds we set off in continued to push up massive following swells, and when the forecast 20 knots became 50, we detoured to the Adra fishing harbour. Winds howled around us as we motored through the harbour confused about where to secure ourselves and no one around to guide us. We selected an abandoned pier but knew it would be difficult with the wind. Con motored straight toward the pier with me dangling off the bow ladder holding a heavy line and when we were just close enough, I took a giant leap of faith landing in a thick layer of bird poo that covered the length of the pier! Hundreds of seagulls owned the pier and a few moved aside to watch. Slipping in the white goo-poo, I tied the bow, Con tossed the stern line, attached his end to the winch and pulled us in.
The next day we moved on to Aguadulce "sweet water" and washed off the seagull residue and filled the tanks and enjoyed the pretty town for a few days. Walking barefoot in the sand -- for a few seconds -- until the sand burned the bottoms of our feet and we sprinted into the sea. Summer is coming.
By bus, we toured Alicante arriviing for their colourful Spanish celebration with marching drummers, singers, dancers, and lots of clapping. Two oxen pulled a cart filled with flowers. This little girl posed for me when I asked her and told her she was muy bonita. Con proudly handling the oxen.
June 1, 2014 -- My dad would have been 89 today. Remembering him with a great big smile. Love you forever dad!
June 3 -- As the sun rose over Aguadulce a beautiful rainbow graced the sky. We set off on a 12-hour, 87 NM trek to Mazzaron, a small town with a marina big enough for only three visiting yachts and three visiting yachts had taken them. With the help of a friendly security guard, and 20 euro, we tied up in someone's private slip. After completing the docking, Con was caked waist to foot in red thick jelly-like mud from the sludge he pulled up with the clam-infested lines. We pulled and pulled at the stern line, only getting it as far as a knot. Both pulling a bit more, we managed a secure wrap on the cleat, and went inside to clean up. Exhausted, we dragged our bodies through the town, laboured up the stairs to the Yacht Club restaurant for tapas, but unfortunately, each dish we ordered was the size of a full meal! Stuffed, we nearly rolled down the stairs back to the boat.
The next day, we washed the thick mud off Big Sky and readied the gennaker for a sail to Torevieja since the wind was coming from the bow. Struggling with the big red and white sail, we finally had it but the wind changed to our beam (on the side).
June 6 – Each town we say, “Let’s stay a few days,” but then then the weather is perfect for a gentle sail, so we untie and set off. These are our three fails with the gennaker:
Try #1: Gennaker came apart at the shackle leaving the halyard and shackle at the top of the mast and the gennaker in the water all around the boat.
Try #2 Gennaker was upside down. We brought it down. Wrong winds arrived.
Try #3: Bow knot wasn't tied correctly and once again the sea was covered in the red and white gennaker.
We tucked into the Valencia marina for the summer, renting a car to explore the Basque Country. Visit Off the Beaten Path.
The next day, we washed the thick mud off Big Sky and readied the gennaker for a sail to Torevieja since the wind was coming from the bow. Struggling with the big red and white sail, we finally had it but the wind changed to our beam (on the side).
June 6 – Each town we say, “Let’s stay a few days,” but then then the weather is perfect for a gentle sail, so we untie and set off. These are our three fails with the gennaker:
Try #1: Gennaker came apart at the shackle leaving the halyard and shackle at the top of the mast and the gennaker in the water all around the boat.
Try #2 Gennaker was upside down. We brought it down. Wrong winds arrived.
Try #3: Bow knot wasn't tied correctly and once again the sea was covered in the red and white gennaker.
We tucked into the Valencia marina for the summer, renting a car to explore the Basque Country. Visit Off the Beaten Path.
VALENCIA: Courtney and Hailey's Spanish Vacation
June 24, 2014 – July 1
Our daughter Courtney and five-year-old Hailey arrived from Canada, but not their luggage – again. That didn't slow us down. We bought Hailey a scooter and hid it in the bunk bed for her. I loaned Courtney a bathing suit, and Hailey wore Con’s football shirt and her underwear and we set off to the beach (Hailey on the scooter). Con rented a bike with a child seat, purchased a bike helmet, and Courtney and I use our fold-up bikes through the dry Valencia riverbed. We’re enjoying summer at the never-ending sandy Valencia beach, walking the boardwalk, body surfing in the gentle waves, playing in the park, eating tapas, drinking sangrias, and day drips in Big Sky. In between, we’re all visiting the dentist.
The Netherlands are in the World Cup Football quarter finals, and we’ve been finding bars with big screens to watch.
TO BARCELONA
Con planned a side trip to Barcelona for us. We left on a 4.5-hour train, checked into a perfect place to spend a half week, a modern two-bedroom apartment with three balconies, on the fourth floor just a block off the Ramblas with a roof top pool. Hailey loves it!
In Barcelona
We went underground today via subway to the Sangrada Familia, the unfinished church of architect Gaudi, where the term "gaudy" comes from where he combined Gothic with Art Nouveau and it's dripping with gaudiness, ornaments, fruits, and even a Christmas tree. His style is seen all over Barcelona. The church began in 1882 and is planned to be completed in 2026. A church unlike any other in the world, filled with symbolism, geometric details, history, indescribable facades. The most difficult part of viewing the church is getting through the hordes of people in the hot Spanish sun. We circled it and got back into the subway heading for the roof top pool.
Courtney and I had a blast shopping in the funky boutique shop all the while Hailey entertained everyone dancing to the store’s piped-in music. Fascinated by the Spanish fans and flamenco dancers, Hailey put on shows for us each night and we for her. A tradition for Con and Hailey is watching Charlie Brown on his laptop. Hailey created a movie theatre with towels for the two of them to watch, poking her head out to ask for popcorn.
Barcelona to Valencia
We checked out of our Barcelona apartment making one last walk around the maze of streets called the Ramblas. When Con and I were here 11 years ago, I went out our big front door at dusk, jet lagged, to chase down our suitcases (believing they were being delivered), rounded a corner, then another, and then became impossibly lost in the labyrinth, only finding the street an hour or so later. Con spotted me from the balcony trying my key in the wrong door and called down, “Barbie! The next door.”
Returning to Big Sky by early evening, a wild wind was blowing up the sea in the marina tossing the boats. Big Sky was awkwardly forward and leaning against our neighbour's boat. As we got closer, we saw that our line had slipped on the cleat! Using the winch and another line, we straightened the boat. Once secured we lifted our bags and lowered our newly acquired Valencian-purchased bikes. (Our Canadian purchased Dahon’s finally broke down.) and Courtney and I rode off for groceries. About 8 pm the sky cracked, and Big Sky's topside was running like a river from the tremendous downpour. Hailey was elated, desperate to go out and help Opa close the just opened windows, but it was best not to gamble with lightning strikes.
By morning, the sun was hot and with our beach gear, sun screen, toys and water packed, we headed to the beach. As a shortcut, we all climb over the wall and down the rock-hill ledge parking ourselves in the middle of hundreds of beach goers. Braver each day, Hailey challenges the waves wanting to body surf like the older kids. Opa and I stood thigh-high in the water attempting to hold Hailey back from deeper water when a big wave knocked the three of us over. Opa scooped her up and she decided she’d had enough body surfing for the day. After three weeks, their holiday came to an end and they boarded their flight back to Calgary.
Courtney had mentioned that she’d like to go on a safari one day, which tweaked Con's imagination. Before we could say, African Safari, we were on our way to Tanzania.
June 24, 2014 – July 1
Our daughter Courtney and five-year-old Hailey arrived from Canada, but not their luggage – again. That didn't slow us down. We bought Hailey a scooter and hid it in the bunk bed for her. I loaned Courtney a bathing suit, and Hailey wore Con’s football shirt and her underwear and we set off to the beach (Hailey on the scooter). Con rented a bike with a child seat, purchased a bike helmet, and Courtney and I use our fold-up bikes through the dry Valencia riverbed. We’re enjoying summer at the never-ending sandy Valencia beach, walking the boardwalk, body surfing in the gentle waves, playing in the park, eating tapas, drinking sangrias, and day drips in Big Sky. In between, we’re all visiting the dentist.
The Netherlands are in the World Cup Football quarter finals, and we’ve been finding bars with big screens to watch.
TO BARCELONA
Con planned a side trip to Barcelona for us. We left on a 4.5-hour train, checked into a perfect place to spend a half week, a modern two-bedroom apartment with three balconies, on the fourth floor just a block off the Ramblas with a roof top pool. Hailey loves it!
In Barcelona
We went underground today via subway to the Sangrada Familia, the unfinished church of architect Gaudi, where the term "gaudy" comes from where he combined Gothic with Art Nouveau and it's dripping with gaudiness, ornaments, fruits, and even a Christmas tree. His style is seen all over Barcelona. The church began in 1882 and is planned to be completed in 2026. A church unlike any other in the world, filled with symbolism, geometric details, history, indescribable facades. The most difficult part of viewing the church is getting through the hordes of people in the hot Spanish sun. We circled it and got back into the subway heading for the roof top pool.
Courtney and I had a blast shopping in the funky boutique shop all the while Hailey entertained everyone dancing to the store’s piped-in music. Fascinated by the Spanish fans and flamenco dancers, Hailey put on shows for us each night and we for her. A tradition for Con and Hailey is watching Charlie Brown on his laptop. Hailey created a movie theatre with towels for the two of them to watch, poking her head out to ask for popcorn.
Barcelona to Valencia
We checked out of our Barcelona apartment making one last walk around the maze of streets called the Ramblas. When Con and I were here 11 years ago, I went out our big front door at dusk, jet lagged, to chase down our suitcases (believing they were being delivered), rounded a corner, then another, and then became impossibly lost in the labyrinth, only finding the street an hour or so later. Con spotted me from the balcony trying my key in the wrong door and called down, “Barbie! The next door.”
Returning to Big Sky by early evening, a wild wind was blowing up the sea in the marina tossing the boats. Big Sky was awkwardly forward and leaning against our neighbour's boat. As we got closer, we saw that our line had slipped on the cleat! Using the winch and another line, we straightened the boat. Once secured we lifted our bags and lowered our newly acquired Valencian-purchased bikes. (Our Canadian purchased Dahon’s finally broke down.) and Courtney and I rode off for groceries. About 8 pm the sky cracked, and Big Sky's topside was running like a river from the tremendous downpour. Hailey was elated, desperate to go out and help Opa close the just opened windows, but it was best not to gamble with lightning strikes.
By morning, the sun was hot and with our beach gear, sun screen, toys and water packed, we headed to the beach. As a shortcut, we all climb over the wall and down the rock-hill ledge parking ourselves in the middle of hundreds of beach goers. Braver each day, Hailey challenges the waves wanting to body surf like the older kids. Opa and I stood thigh-high in the water attempting to hold Hailey back from deeper water when a big wave knocked the three of us over. Opa scooped her up and she decided she’d had enough body surfing for the day. After three weeks, their holiday came to an end and they boarded their flight back to Calgary.
Courtney had mentioned that she’d like to go on a safari one day, which tweaked Con's imagination. Before we could say, African Safari, we were on our way to Tanzania.
August 11, 1014 – Our trip to Tanzania was an opportunity of a life time filling us with more beauty and raw nature that makes up the inhabitants of this world.
We had decided to spend the winter in Cyprus, which was 1,750 NM from Valencia. Our journey would be more sailing in this one trek than all the sailing we did in 2012. Before setting off, Con tested the systems and realized the Genoa electric box wire had frayed. We took the electric box off and it was delivered to a repair shop, in the meantime, we had the long Genoa forestay replaced.
August 12 – 16 – A Whale Visits
580 NM into our 1,750 NM journey to Cyprus
We left Valencia at 8 am in relatively calm waters, motor sailing toward south end of Sardinia passing the Baleric Islands. Four hours into our sail, a massive grey whale approached us on our port side and circled the boat slowly, very near to us, possibly 13 - 15 meters away. We cut the engine and floated. He carried on around us making a complete circle spouting water with a big puuffs, then in the place where he began the circle, he arched his back and flapped his enormous tail at us and left in the same direction where he'd come to visit. It's a stunning bit of nature reversal when a creature this enormous comes to check us out. It's humbling to have the attention of such an animal. A pod of porpoises swam west passed us 15 minutes later. Porpoises are not social, unlike dolphins who visit and chat at our bow. As our journey progressed, headwinds were creating rivers of water topsides. We changed course further south heading to Tunisia remaining inside doing lookout from the pilot house. On our third day, the sea calmed and we went outside. Con spotted something plugging our starboard drain topside. It was a squid! Birds must have been exhausted from the winds, and a few hitched a free ride. In Tunisian waters, a beautiful long-beaked bird circled and circled the boat, finally settling on the bow for a ride. (He had brown and yellow feathers everywhere except the wings which were stripped like a zebra.) Entering the harbour, a beautiful dolphin leapt nearly a meter out of the water right in front of us. I wondered if he knew how dangerous it was for him there with all the fishing nets set in the area.
On the fourth day, we entered the busy Kelibia harbour. The same marinara who lives in a small boat in the harbour, waved us over with his right hand, in his left he held a delicate cup of tea. Balancing like a tight-rope walker, we walked across edge of a number of small boats, all the while a cigarette dangling from his bottom lip and not spilling a drop of tea. I was at the bow looking at the dog-leg like manoevure we’d have to do to get into the spot that looked half the size of Big Sky. I looked back at Con. He looked perplexed. The marinara kept motioning. Neither Con nor I indicated a response, still contemplating. Starboard was the stern of a large fishing boat, port side was a small boat tied to the pier with a mish mash of boats tied to it leaving about 4 meters for us to pass through. Con still shaking his head, the marinara still balancing and motioning us forward, I walked back to Con saying with fake confidence, “You can do it!” We both knew our alternative was an overnight sail further south to Monistar and a night-time arrival, which was out of the question. Con nodded, filling up on my fake confidence, nudged passed the little boats port side, cut sharp to port, back to starboard. Three others appeared, two locals and the marinara took lines from me, and the Immigration Officer reluctantly took the fourth line. Slowly we eased in against the rickety boats, with an inch to spare at the bow as it hovered over the small boats. Before we were at the pier, the Immigration Officer and Port Police had climbed across one boat and over our rail and aboard with their big black dirty boots.
Anticipating their eager boarding, having been here before, I’d put tempting items out of sight before entering the harbour and put the cheap whiskey and vodka we’d bought for this purpose in clear sight. Seated in the cockpit, the lead agent asked Con to list, "Everything aboard," pushing the paper and pen to him. Con pulled a type-written inventory list from his papers. That surprised them. Especially because it was stamped "Big Sky" with our registration number, and signed by the captain (Con). For some reason, that holds some kind of weight. They were surprised to say the least. "Okay, cigarettes?" he demanded.
"Don't smoke."
"Whiskey?" he continued.
"Yes," Con responded casually, and at that, they climbed down the companionway into the pilot house. Immediately, the large agent went to the master bedroom, opened my closet and said to Con quietly so the other agent couldn't hear, cadeaux, French for present.
"Whiskey?" Con responded.
The big guy nodded and followed Con to the settee were he'd opened the cupboard and pulled out the bottle handing it to him.
"And one for my friend," he said in French, adding, "in a bag." Con pulled out the vodka. He looked it over and apparently satisfied and waited for Con to put them in a bag. All the while, the Imam was calling the Muslims to prayer.
Immigration visited us again the next morning after we fueled up, for one more look aboard, but this man didn’t ask for a cadeaux.
Weather was perfect for a smooth run to Sicily, via the Italian Island di Pantelleria, famous spot for illegals to land in their dangerous plight to leave Africa.
Below: The whale that circled our boat; squid; sunset on Milos; bottom of Peloponnese; Tunisia's crowded marina; street in Tunisia
We had decided to spend the winter in Cyprus, which was 1,750 NM from Valencia. Our journey would be more sailing in this one trek than all the sailing we did in 2012. Before setting off, Con tested the systems and realized the Genoa electric box wire had frayed. We took the electric box off and it was delivered to a repair shop, in the meantime, we had the long Genoa forestay replaced.
August 12 – 16 – A Whale Visits
580 NM into our 1,750 NM journey to Cyprus
We left Valencia at 8 am in relatively calm waters, motor sailing toward south end of Sardinia passing the Baleric Islands. Four hours into our sail, a massive grey whale approached us on our port side and circled the boat slowly, very near to us, possibly 13 - 15 meters away. We cut the engine and floated. He carried on around us making a complete circle spouting water with a big puuffs, then in the place where he began the circle, he arched his back and flapped his enormous tail at us and left in the same direction where he'd come to visit. It's a stunning bit of nature reversal when a creature this enormous comes to check us out. It's humbling to have the attention of such an animal. A pod of porpoises swam west passed us 15 minutes later. Porpoises are not social, unlike dolphins who visit and chat at our bow. As our journey progressed, headwinds were creating rivers of water topsides. We changed course further south heading to Tunisia remaining inside doing lookout from the pilot house. On our third day, the sea calmed and we went outside. Con spotted something plugging our starboard drain topside. It was a squid! Birds must have been exhausted from the winds, and a few hitched a free ride. In Tunisian waters, a beautiful long-beaked bird circled and circled the boat, finally settling on the bow for a ride. (He had brown and yellow feathers everywhere except the wings which were stripped like a zebra.) Entering the harbour, a beautiful dolphin leapt nearly a meter out of the water right in front of us. I wondered if he knew how dangerous it was for him there with all the fishing nets set in the area.
On the fourth day, we entered the busy Kelibia harbour. The same marinara who lives in a small boat in the harbour, waved us over with his right hand, in his left he held a delicate cup of tea. Balancing like a tight-rope walker, we walked across edge of a number of small boats, all the while a cigarette dangling from his bottom lip and not spilling a drop of tea. I was at the bow looking at the dog-leg like manoevure we’d have to do to get into the spot that looked half the size of Big Sky. I looked back at Con. He looked perplexed. The marinara kept motioning. Neither Con nor I indicated a response, still contemplating. Starboard was the stern of a large fishing boat, port side was a small boat tied to the pier with a mish mash of boats tied to it leaving about 4 meters for us to pass through. Con still shaking his head, the marinara still balancing and motioning us forward, I walked back to Con saying with fake confidence, “You can do it!” We both knew our alternative was an overnight sail further south to Monistar and a night-time arrival, which was out of the question. Con nodded, filling up on my fake confidence, nudged passed the little boats port side, cut sharp to port, back to starboard. Three others appeared, two locals and the marinara took lines from me, and the Immigration Officer reluctantly took the fourth line. Slowly we eased in against the rickety boats, with an inch to spare at the bow as it hovered over the small boats. Before we were at the pier, the Immigration Officer and Port Police had climbed across one boat and over our rail and aboard with their big black dirty boots.
Anticipating their eager boarding, having been here before, I’d put tempting items out of sight before entering the harbour and put the cheap whiskey and vodka we’d bought for this purpose in clear sight. Seated in the cockpit, the lead agent asked Con to list, "Everything aboard," pushing the paper and pen to him. Con pulled a type-written inventory list from his papers. That surprised them. Especially because it was stamped "Big Sky" with our registration number, and signed by the captain (Con). For some reason, that holds some kind of weight. They were surprised to say the least. "Okay, cigarettes?" he demanded.
"Don't smoke."
"Whiskey?" he continued.
"Yes," Con responded casually, and at that, they climbed down the companionway into the pilot house. Immediately, the large agent went to the master bedroom, opened my closet and said to Con quietly so the other agent couldn't hear, cadeaux, French for present.
"Whiskey?" Con responded.
The big guy nodded and followed Con to the settee were he'd opened the cupboard and pulled out the bottle handing it to him.
"And one for my friend," he said in French, adding, "in a bag." Con pulled out the vodka. He looked it over and apparently satisfied and waited for Con to put them in a bag. All the while, the Imam was calling the Muslims to prayer.
Immigration visited us again the next morning after we fueled up, for one more look aboard, but this man didn’t ask for a cadeaux.
Weather was perfect for a smooth run to Sicily, via the Italian Island di Pantelleria, famous spot for illegals to land in their dangerous plight to leave Africa.
Below: The whale that circled our boat; squid; sunset on Milos; bottom of Peloponnese; Tunisia's crowded marina; street in Tunisia
August 17 -- At 197 NM
We dropped the anchor in Porto Palo (bottom corner of Sicily) after an overnight sail where the seas continued to climb. In our anchorage, the wind is howling, but we’re in a well-protected location. During my watch last night, ships snuck up behind us and others crossed closely at our bow. Winds were climbing quickly. When they reached 30 knots, I woke Con to help me with the sails. Moments later, Con at my side to reef, the winds climbed to 40, and when we released the jib, winds hit 45 knots. The next moment, the main sheet slipped out of the winch swinging the boom wildly starboard with a bang. Weirdly, yesterday, I asked Con, what are the chances the sheet could slip in the winch? Con called out instructions which went overboard with the wind. But on automatic, together we furled the jib. Con steered Big Sky into the wind to take the pressure off the main so we could furl it. The noise was frighteningly loud, the boom bangig, sails crackling, and the sheets (ropes) lit by our deck lights were dancing high in the sky. "Guard the sheets," Con shouted.
I was already trying to pull them in. One stray sheet in the prop would kill it. (That very thing happened a few years ago, when we attempted to sail to Cyprus having to detour to Turkey thanks to the Turkish Coast Guard towing us.)
Lightning lit up the sky to the east. By the time we managed the sails, got back on course, checked for traffic, the cell had moved on and we were in 14 knot winds.
We dropped the anchor in Porto Palo (bottom corner of Sicily) after an overnight sail where the seas continued to climb. In our anchorage, the wind is howling, but we’re in a well-protected location. During my watch last night, ships snuck up behind us and others crossed closely at our bow. Winds were climbing quickly. When they reached 30 knots, I woke Con to help me with the sails. Moments later, Con at my side to reef, the winds climbed to 40, and when we released the jib, winds hit 45 knots. The next moment, the main sheet slipped out of the winch swinging the boom wildly starboard with a bang. Weirdly, yesterday, I asked Con, what are the chances the sheet could slip in the winch? Con called out instructions which went overboard with the wind. But on automatic, together we furled the jib. Con steered Big Sky into the wind to take the pressure off the main so we could furl it. The noise was frighteningly loud, the boom bangig, sails crackling, and the sheets (ropes) lit by our deck lights were dancing high in the sky. "Guard the sheets," Con shouted.
I was already trying to pull them in. One stray sheet in the prop would kill it. (That very thing happened a few years ago, when we attempted to sail to Cyprus having to detour to Turkey thanks to the Turkish Coast Guard towing us.)
Lightning lit up the sky to the east. By the time we managed the sails, got back on course, checked for traffic, the cell had moved on and we were in 14 knot winds.
August 23 –At 1130 NM
Since the 12th August we’ve made a big dent in our 1750 NM, and when we reached Greece, from the Ionian Sea we planted ourselves in Kalamata. This stop was necessary, because our 5-year-old gel batteries have given up the ghost. The electrician told Con he could get us replacement batteries "tomorrow" provided we pay him in cash before 2 pm so he can transfer the money to wherever to make the purchase. At 1:50 pm, Con hopped on the back of the guys motorcycle and they shot out of the marina like a bat outta hell for a WILD ride. He swerved on angles we didn't know a bike could do and remain upright, balancing inches from the marina's water edge all to avoid the speed bumps. He wasn't going to slow down. After three instant tellers tries, Con had a pocket full of money, and the electrician raced into the bank seconds before it closed at 2 pm and made the transfer. The next day, the new batteries arrived. In 45 degree conditions in the engine room, two electricians hauled out our four, 150 pound batteries and replaced them with heavier AGM batteries. He told Con he lost 8 pounds today. Sweat! "Our bow thruster growls like an angry bear," Con says, which means, we can leave tomorrow, drop the anchor in a pretty turquoise-coloured bay and swim to our hearts content. Our next deadline is our flight out of Cyprus in a month. We can slow down our pace.
August 25 -- We found paradise
It's about four hours from Kalamata, the beautiful island of Elafonisos (thanks to our friends Judy and Bruno also Svein and Caryn for suggesting it). We're anchored on the southeast end of the island. The water is turquoise, warm, clean, jellyfish free. We'd stay longer, except that there's no internet! We are on baby-stand-by as Lindsey and Les' baby girl is due any day.
Since the 12th August we’ve made a big dent in our 1750 NM, and when we reached Greece, from the Ionian Sea we planted ourselves in Kalamata. This stop was necessary, because our 5-year-old gel batteries have given up the ghost. The electrician told Con he could get us replacement batteries "tomorrow" provided we pay him in cash before 2 pm so he can transfer the money to wherever to make the purchase. At 1:50 pm, Con hopped on the back of the guys motorcycle and they shot out of the marina like a bat outta hell for a WILD ride. He swerved on angles we didn't know a bike could do and remain upright, balancing inches from the marina's water edge all to avoid the speed bumps. He wasn't going to slow down. After three instant tellers tries, Con had a pocket full of money, and the electrician raced into the bank seconds before it closed at 2 pm and made the transfer. The next day, the new batteries arrived. In 45 degree conditions in the engine room, two electricians hauled out our four, 150 pound batteries and replaced them with heavier AGM batteries. He told Con he lost 8 pounds today. Sweat! "Our bow thruster growls like an angry bear," Con says, which means, we can leave tomorrow, drop the anchor in a pretty turquoise-coloured bay and swim to our hearts content. Our next deadline is our flight out of Cyprus in a month. We can slow down our pace.
August 25 -- We found paradise
It's about four hours from Kalamata, the beautiful island of Elafonisos (thanks to our friends Judy and Bruno also Svein and Caryn for suggesting it). We're anchored on the southeast end of the island. The water is turquoise, warm, clean, jellyfish free. We'd stay longer, except that there's no internet! We are on baby-stand-by as Lindsey and Les' baby girl is due any day.
August 26 - 30 Island Hopping
Reluctantly, we pulled up our anchor from the beautiful island of Elafonisos where we could have lived out the rest of our lives – well at least until the last skiff of summer. With a slight detour north, we entered the Aegean Sea and visited the beautiful town of Monemvasies, a fortified Byzantine town that clings to limestone that rises 350 meters from the sea. It's nicknamed "Gibraltar of Greece". It had never been taken by force, and they had plenty of water, but because nothing grows on the rocks they had to surrender for lack of food.
We tied up in the harbour (no charge/no electricity) located about a kilometre from the Byzantine town. Con was anxious to sink his teeth into a Gyro, and thirty minutes later we were sitting in the shade overlooking the Aegean sharing an upgraded Gyro called a Gyro Platter (rather than 2 euro, it was 7). Later that afternoon, I booked a hair appointment for highlights and a cut. In Canada that's a $140 hit. Here, 46 euro, and it was an excellent job. Mind you, it took twice as long, but like Con and I always say, "We have the rest of our lives." We departed the quaint little harbour just as the sun was rising; the best part of the day. With a Meltimi due to arrive within 48 hours, we thought an anchorage we'd been in four years ago might be the perfect place, but we had some miles to go to get there. Meltimi's are strong winds created when the monsoon lows from Pakistan and the highs from the Azores (in the Atlantic off Portugal) get squished together and race down the Aegean Sea from the Black Sea building strength as they cycle through the Cyclades (the group of Greek islands we're sailing through).
We dropped anchor four hours later off the familiar volcanic island of Milos, in the same completely private bay we'd stayed in four years ago. Milos has extraordinary rock formations and hot springs. The water was beautiful, blue, warm, and completely refreshing as we swam au natural.
Again... rising before the sun, we headed east to our fondly remembered bay on the island of Ios, our planned destination to plant ourselves for a half a week while the Meltimi blows itself out. Ios is known for its nightlife, but you'd never know it from our vantage point, in the bay just west of the town. People in this bay are naturalists (no clothes) and it all flows very easily and "natural." Just west is the pretty white-washed town of Ios, known as "the Village."
While Con ventured out for better internet for us while aboard, and for fresh fruits etc., I played in the water, swimming to the beach and back, checking our anchor...
The hike isn't for the faint of heart. First, Con had to row to shore while the 25-40 knot winds blasted at him, then hike up the goat path to the village looking for internet providers (which he found, but didn't have his passport). He carried on to the grocery store, hiked back down the goat path with heavy bags, climbed into the dingy, and row back to the boat. Once aboard, he realized that he'd left my iPad at the grocery store. He rowed back to shore, with passports in his backpack), hiked the goat path, back to the store, retrieved the iPad (honest Greeks), then to Cosmote for internet, hiked back across town, down the goat path, across the hot sand, into the dingy, and rowed back to Big Sky. The Meltimi was blowing strong in the village, but where we are, the hills block most of it leaving us to drift on our anchor east and west.
We have another 500 NM to go to Cyprus and with our flight booked from there, we pulled up anchor and moved on, but not before another delicious swim.
Below: Big Sky docked in Astypalia; Big Sky in Ios a Greek island (I swam into shore); Con taking the photo of the Ios Bay from the goat path; slowing our pace in Greece; new hair do; and underwater camera shots in Ios.
Reluctantly, we pulled up our anchor from the beautiful island of Elafonisos where we could have lived out the rest of our lives – well at least until the last skiff of summer. With a slight detour north, we entered the Aegean Sea and visited the beautiful town of Monemvasies, a fortified Byzantine town that clings to limestone that rises 350 meters from the sea. It's nicknamed "Gibraltar of Greece". It had never been taken by force, and they had plenty of water, but because nothing grows on the rocks they had to surrender for lack of food.
We tied up in the harbour (no charge/no electricity) located about a kilometre from the Byzantine town. Con was anxious to sink his teeth into a Gyro, and thirty minutes later we were sitting in the shade overlooking the Aegean sharing an upgraded Gyro called a Gyro Platter (rather than 2 euro, it was 7). Later that afternoon, I booked a hair appointment for highlights and a cut. In Canada that's a $140 hit. Here, 46 euro, and it was an excellent job. Mind you, it took twice as long, but like Con and I always say, "We have the rest of our lives." We departed the quaint little harbour just as the sun was rising; the best part of the day. With a Meltimi due to arrive within 48 hours, we thought an anchorage we'd been in four years ago might be the perfect place, but we had some miles to go to get there. Meltimi's are strong winds created when the monsoon lows from Pakistan and the highs from the Azores (in the Atlantic off Portugal) get squished together and race down the Aegean Sea from the Black Sea building strength as they cycle through the Cyclades (the group of Greek islands we're sailing through).
We dropped anchor four hours later off the familiar volcanic island of Milos, in the same completely private bay we'd stayed in four years ago. Milos has extraordinary rock formations and hot springs. The water was beautiful, blue, warm, and completely refreshing as we swam au natural.
Again... rising before the sun, we headed east to our fondly remembered bay on the island of Ios, our planned destination to plant ourselves for a half a week while the Meltimi blows itself out. Ios is known for its nightlife, but you'd never know it from our vantage point, in the bay just west of the town. People in this bay are naturalists (no clothes) and it all flows very easily and "natural." Just west is the pretty white-washed town of Ios, known as "the Village."
While Con ventured out for better internet for us while aboard, and for fresh fruits etc., I played in the water, swimming to the beach and back, checking our anchor...
The hike isn't for the faint of heart. First, Con had to row to shore while the 25-40 knot winds blasted at him, then hike up the goat path to the village looking for internet providers (which he found, but didn't have his passport). He carried on to the grocery store, hiked back down the goat path with heavy bags, climbed into the dingy, and row back to the boat. Once aboard, he realized that he'd left my iPad at the grocery store. He rowed back to shore, with passports in his backpack), hiked the goat path, back to the store, retrieved the iPad (honest Greeks), then to Cosmote for internet, hiked back across town, down the goat path, across the hot sand, into the dingy, and rowed back to Big Sky. The Meltimi was blowing strong in the village, but where we are, the hills block most of it leaving us to drift on our anchor east and west.
We have another 500 NM to go to Cyprus and with our flight booked from there, we pulled up anchor and moved on, but not before another delicious swim.
Below: Big Sky docked in Astypalia; Big Sky in Ios a Greek island (I swam into shore); Con taking the photo of the Ios Bay from the goat path; slowing our pace in Greece; new hair do; and underwater camera shots in Ios.
September 2 -- Swimming and Swinging in the Dodecanese
We moved to Astypalia, the butterfly island leaving the Cyclades island chain, entering the Dodecanese, and dropped anchor. Still on standby waiting for the birth of Lindsey and Les’ first child, we keep our internet on 24 hours a day.
September 4 -- Internet Gymnastics
Arriving on the north end of Astypalia, Con was at the helm and I held up our cell phone (our internet modem) seeking cell phone bars. When I spotted two bars (the best we could get) we dropped anchor.
The clouds were a welcome treat that morning, along with 22 rain drops. It hasn't rained here in quite a while. The 30 degree water wasn't as clear as we like so we rowed ashore, dropped off our garbage in the bin at the sleepy corner of the bay. Spotting two people, we exchanged "Yasas" (their standard "hello") added a "Yasis" to the goat, rowed back to the boat, and lifted anchor for our next spot, one hour east along the island.
Con paddled around the beautiful clear-water bay, populated by colourful fish below and colourless goats all around the rocky shore. He was holding up the cell phone seeking internet bars. Once two bars appeared, he paddled back with the plan to position Big Sky by the stern to collect the weak cell phone reception. Con slipped in the water, scooped up the heavy chain (which I'd hoped he'd float to shore) dragged it through the water while swimming it labourously to shore. My eyes constantly peeled on him believing he’s a moment away from drowning! Settled back aboard, we called Lindsey. She’s pretty uncomfortable at 3 cm dilated.
Below: isolated anchorages; Con attempting to find internet; one of a billion goats we anchored around; ship ran aground
We moved to Astypalia, the butterfly island leaving the Cyclades island chain, entering the Dodecanese, and dropped anchor. Still on standby waiting for the birth of Lindsey and Les’ first child, we keep our internet on 24 hours a day.
September 4 -- Internet Gymnastics
Arriving on the north end of Astypalia, Con was at the helm and I held up our cell phone (our internet modem) seeking cell phone bars. When I spotted two bars (the best we could get) we dropped anchor.
The clouds were a welcome treat that morning, along with 22 rain drops. It hasn't rained here in quite a while. The 30 degree water wasn't as clear as we like so we rowed ashore, dropped off our garbage in the bin at the sleepy corner of the bay. Spotting two people, we exchanged "Yasas" (their standard "hello") added a "Yasis" to the goat, rowed back to the boat, and lifted anchor for our next spot, one hour east along the island.
Con paddled around the beautiful clear-water bay, populated by colourful fish below and colourless goats all around the rocky shore. He was holding up the cell phone seeking internet bars. Once two bars appeared, he paddled back with the plan to position Big Sky by the stern to collect the weak cell phone reception. Con slipped in the water, scooped up the heavy chain (which I'd hoped he'd float to shore) dragged it through the water while swimming it labourously to shore. My eyes constantly peeled on him believing he’s a moment away from drowning! Settled back aboard, we called Lindsey. She’s pretty uncomfortable at 3 cm dilated.
Below: isolated anchorages; Con attempting to find internet; one of a billion goats we anchored around; ship ran aground
September 5 - 8 -- Pretty Medieval Town of Astypalaia
This is definitely a rugged island, without proper charts, chances are good that we'd hit jagged rocks just under or peeking out of the water. It was once the hideout of pirates, and we get that. There are plenty of high-cliff framed coves and hillside covered bays to hide a ship or two. We spent a night in the charming harbour, free electricity, free water, free mooring only because the harbour master went to Rhodes and nobody else fills in. The next day, we motored to the back side of the town, dropped anchor under the internet cell tower and the Venetian castle high up on the hill. The Greek chora (town) spilling out all around it.
We bought new snorkels and masks from the friendly lady we met the day before, finally finding a workable language (Italian) to barely communicate, but it didn't matter, she kept kissing my shoulder.
On our fourth day anchoring around the island from one hilly, high cliff framed bay to another, there was still no baby. The land is dry and parched now as summer's end closes in, with temperatures cooling a bit at night I say sarcastically (30+ by day, 30 in the water, and 27 at night).
September 9-10 -- No Baby Leaving our beautiful anchorage, we moved 48 NM closer to Cyprus, anchoring in another gorgeous bay, this one off Tilos. About 1 NM from Astypalia we passed a Russian freighter that strangely ran aground, directly into the corner of Astipalia's many rugged land edges. A berm was placed around the freighter, and luckily, nothing seeped from its cargo.
Weather forecasts predicted 15 knots, "Perfect for flying the gennaker," Con announced and proceeded to set it up on the foredeck. I motored out of the bay, into a surprisingly choppy sea. Winds climbed to 17 knots; Con continued to struggle with the "condom" the chute that releases and snuffs the gennaker. Forty-five minutes later, both of us struggling with the x@#X thing. Finally, Con got it to release. At that moment, the wind climbed to 30 knots. Before I could call, "snuff it" the snuff lines swung wildly overboard. Con attempted many tricks to catch it without success. AND THE NOISE! In a matter of minutes the whole thing would shred and at this point, that's exactly what I was hoping. Con shouted to me at the helm, "Into the wind!" But Big Sky wouldn't go into the wind without using the engine and with the lines in the water, I didn't want a repeat performance as the last time we attempted to sail to Cyprus ending in a Turkish tow when our lines got in the prop. How ironic... However, the lines I could see weren't in the water, they were flying wildly above and knotting in midair. Amazing if it wasn't so scary. I used the throttle, got us into the wind and Big Sky heeled madly port side. Con held on tight. "Too much, too much," he shouted. I turned back. "No prop, no prop," he shouted. I realized we were in reverse (I missed neutral) and the prop could have been screwed, but at that point, the lines all snapped and the whole thing landed in the water. We're now counting 4:1 (four times the gennaker is in the water to one successful flight).
With our jib, we entered Chalki's large harbour and Con readied the anchor, (releasing it and pushing it over the bow spit ready to drop -- when we're ready). However, the chain wasn't around the winch (we used it for the x@#X gennaker) and the 50 kilogram Bruce continued over the bow spit and into 35 meters -- while under sail! With a lot of tap dancing, we got Bruce back aboard and the sail furled. Now with the anchor in the correct position, we dropped the anchor and proceeded to back up to the pier. Bruce snagged a rope from the bottom of the harbour. Twenty minutes later, we managed to free the anchor from the rope and tried again – successfully. It was a crazy day. We checked the internet – still no baby. We stepped ashore for a delicious Greek lunch at a table overlooking the blue waters.
September 11 -- Baby Kate Arrives! Con and I receiving the call that Kate was born.
This is definitely a rugged island, without proper charts, chances are good that we'd hit jagged rocks just under or peeking out of the water. It was once the hideout of pirates, and we get that. There are plenty of high-cliff framed coves and hillside covered bays to hide a ship or two. We spent a night in the charming harbour, free electricity, free water, free mooring only because the harbour master went to Rhodes and nobody else fills in. The next day, we motored to the back side of the town, dropped anchor under the internet cell tower and the Venetian castle high up on the hill. The Greek chora (town) spilling out all around it.
We bought new snorkels and masks from the friendly lady we met the day before, finally finding a workable language (Italian) to barely communicate, but it didn't matter, she kept kissing my shoulder.
On our fourth day anchoring around the island from one hilly, high cliff framed bay to another, there was still no baby. The land is dry and parched now as summer's end closes in, with temperatures cooling a bit at night I say sarcastically (30+ by day, 30 in the water, and 27 at night).
September 9-10 -- No Baby Leaving our beautiful anchorage, we moved 48 NM closer to Cyprus, anchoring in another gorgeous bay, this one off Tilos. About 1 NM from Astypalia we passed a Russian freighter that strangely ran aground, directly into the corner of Astipalia's many rugged land edges. A berm was placed around the freighter, and luckily, nothing seeped from its cargo.
Weather forecasts predicted 15 knots, "Perfect for flying the gennaker," Con announced and proceeded to set it up on the foredeck. I motored out of the bay, into a surprisingly choppy sea. Winds climbed to 17 knots; Con continued to struggle with the "condom" the chute that releases and snuffs the gennaker. Forty-five minutes later, both of us struggling with the x@#X thing. Finally, Con got it to release. At that moment, the wind climbed to 30 knots. Before I could call, "snuff it" the snuff lines swung wildly overboard. Con attempted many tricks to catch it without success. AND THE NOISE! In a matter of minutes the whole thing would shred and at this point, that's exactly what I was hoping. Con shouted to me at the helm, "Into the wind!" But Big Sky wouldn't go into the wind without using the engine and with the lines in the water, I didn't want a repeat performance as the last time we attempted to sail to Cyprus ending in a Turkish tow when our lines got in the prop. How ironic... However, the lines I could see weren't in the water, they were flying wildly above and knotting in midair. Amazing if it wasn't so scary. I used the throttle, got us into the wind and Big Sky heeled madly port side. Con held on tight. "Too much, too much," he shouted. I turned back. "No prop, no prop," he shouted. I realized we were in reverse (I missed neutral) and the prop could have been screwed, but at that point, the lines all snapped and the whole thing landed in the water. We're now counting 4:1 (four times the gennaker is in the water to one successful flight).
With our jib, we entered Chalki's large harbour and Con readied the anchor, (releasing it and pushing it over the bow spit ready to drop -- when we're ready). However, the chain wasn't around the winch (we used it for the x@#X gennaker) and the 50 kilogram Bruce continued over the bow spit and into 35 meters -- while under sail! With a lot of tap dancing, we got Bruce back aboard and the sail furled. Now with the anchor in the correct position, we dropped the anchor and proceeded to back up to the pier. Bruce snagged a rope from the bottom of the harbour. Twenty minutes later, we managed to free the anchor from the rope and tried again – successfully. It was a crazy day. We checked the internet – still no baby. We stepped ashore for a delicious Greek lunch at a table overlooking the blue waters.
September 11 -- Baby Kate Arrives! Con and I receiving the call that Kate was born.
Katelyn Irene Loring Joins the Family
September 11, 2014 – We’ll always remember the pretty town of Chalki, where we were when our forth grandbaby was born just four days after her due date. After waiting by the phone for hours and hours, after receiving a call from Lindsey in the passenger seat, with Les driving them to the hospital and the clear message to “stay tuned.” Lindsey wanted me in the delivery room via Facetime, so we didn’t leave the internet, waiting, waiting, waiting... Five hours later, I called Courtney. “Yes, the baby was born an hour ago!”
It was a quick four-hour delivery, following a painful seven-year journey to arrive at this very special moment. Everybody is doing wonderfully and we’re all ecstatic! They honoured my mom by naming her Katelyn “Irene” after her. I know my mom would be incredibly moved and is likely celebrating with my dad in their special place in heaven. We'll stay in this sweet town a bit longer, dreaming about our new grand baby, swimming and loafin' a bit before our long sail to Cyprus. (From Cyprus, we flew home a few weeks after Kate’s birth and watched this brand new person doing all her firsts. Life is amazing! She's a gentle baby, easy to be around, content to look at you or all the wonderful colours around her.)
September 11, 2014 – We’ll always remember the pretty town of Chalki, where we were when our forth grandbaby was born just four days after her due date. After waiting by the phone for hours and hours, after receiving a call from Lindsey in the passenger seat, with Les driving them to the hospital and the clear message to “stay tuned.” Lindsey wanted me in the delivery room via Facetime, so we didn’t leave the internet, waiting, waiting, waiting... Five hours later, I called Courtney. “Yes, the baby was born an hour ago!”
It was a quick four-hour delivery, following a painful seven-year journey to arrive at this very special moment. Everybody is doing wonderfully and we’re all ecstatic! They honoured my mom by naming her Katelyn “Irene” after her. I know my mom would be incredibly moved and is likely celebrating with my dad in their special place in heaven. We'll stay in this sweet town a bit longer, dreaming about our new grand baby, swimming and loafin' a bit before our long sail to Cyprus. (From Cyprus, we flew home a few weeks after Kate’s birth and watched this brand new person doing all her firsts. Life is amazing! She's a gentle baby, easy to be around, content to look at you or all the wonderful colours around her.)
Summer lingers delightfully in Greece
September 12-14 -- With temperatures both in the water and out still at the 30 degree point, Con and I are lollygagging at anchor day and night: swimming, reading, playing backgammon, eating healthy foods, and sleeping with the cooler breezes gently flowing through the boat. We left Chalki's calm anchorage once again entering a choppy sea, which worked out well since Con put a shower cleaning solution in our shower tanks that requires a lot of sloshing. Once we rounded the south end of the largest Dodecanese island, Rhodes, the sea was protected by the land and was once again comfy. We managed to sail most of the way, however, didn't temp to fly the @#$#X Gennaker. We dropped anchor in Lindos on the eastern side of Rhodes. This island played a big part in the 5th to 3rd century BC (the Roman and Byzantine empires) before being conquered by the Knights of St. John. The village is from the 13th century Knights of St. John's Crusader Castle, built on top of the 4th century BC temples which had been visited by Alexander the Great, and Helen of Troy. The Crusaders were conquerors who had no respect for preserving the area's history. The castle is built on the natural acropolis, 125 meters above the village. Today, vehicles park outside the village as the streets are narrow windy lanes. Unfortunately, they are polluted with donkey dung as the tourists ride the donkey's up and down the lanes to the castle and back to the beach. The village was built mostly by rich sea captains between the 15th and 18th centuries and distinctive carvings are seen on the buildings and doorways, and pictures of ships and other nautical scenes are in the pebble mosaic courtyards.
September 12-14 -- With temperatures both in the water and out still at the 30 degree point, Con and I are lollygagging at anchor day and night: swimming, reading, playing backgammon, eating healthy foods, and sleeping with the cooler breezes gently flowing through the boat. We left Chalki's calm anchorage once again entering a choppy sea, which worked out well since Con put a shower cleaning solution in our shower tanks that requires a lot of sloshing. Once we rounded the south end of the largest Dodecanese island, Rhodes, the sea was protected by the land and was once again comfy. We managed to sail most of the way, however, didn't temp to fly the @#$#X Gennaker. We dropped anchor in Lindos on the eastern side of Rhodes. This island played a big part in the 5th to 3rd century BC (the Roman and Byzantine empires) before being conquered by the Knights of St. John. The village is from the 13th century Knights of St. John's Crusader Castle, built on top of the 4th century BC temples which had been visited by Alexander the Great, and Helen of Troy. The Crusaders were conquerors who had no respect for preserving the area's history. The castle is built on the natural acropolis, 125 meters above the village. Today, vehicles park outside the village as the streets are narrow windy lanes. Unfortunately, they are polluted with donkey dung as the tourists ride the donkey's up and down the lanes to the castle and back to the beach. The village was built mostly by rich sea captains between the 15th and 18th centuries and distinctive carvings are seen on the buildings and doorways, and pictures of ships and other nautical scenes are in the pebble mosaic courtyards.
September 16 -- Two more legs to go
Swimming in the Lindos bay with my snorkel, I could see that our anchor chain was wrapped a few times around big boulders six meters below the boat in the crystal clear waters. When lifting "Bruce" our 50 kg anchor the next morning, I put on my snorkel and gave Con instructions to turn Big Sky in moves to untwist and Bruce eventually lifted. We set off for Kastellorizo, not a direct route to Cyprus but it would allow a good night’s sleep at anchor, and it is our favourite Greek island. What an oxymoron it became, to “allow a good night’s sleep at anchor”.
Kastellorizo became popular in 1987 when the airport opened, otherwise it had been an isolated Greek island located 2.5 km from Turkey. It’s a stunning town with a population of about 300 people. During WWII, most of the stone houses were bombed, but today they have been rebuilt with strict controls to maintain the quaint Greek look.
Swimming in the Lindos bay with my snorkel, I could see that our anchor chain was wrapped a few times around big boulders six meters below the boat in the crystal clear waters. When lifting "Bruce" our 50 kg anchor the next morning, I put on my snorkel and gave Con instructions to turn Big Sky in moves to untwist and Bruce eventually lifted. We set off for Kastellorizo, not a direct route to Cyprus but it would allow a good night’s sleep at anchor, and it is our favourite Greek island. What an oxymoron it became, to “allow a good night’s sleep at anchor”.
Kastellorizo became popular in 1987 when the airport opened, otherwise it had been an isolated Greek island located 2.5 km from Turkey. It’s a stunning town with a population of about 300 people. During WWII, most of the stone houses were bombed, but today they have been rebuilt with strict controls to maintain the quaint Greek look.
September 17 -- CAPTAIN FROM HELL
We arrived during daylight hours to the pretty anchorage on Kastellorizo. All was perfect until 4:30am when we sprinted out of bed and into the cockpit (me in my housecoat; Con in the nude) to the sounds of horns blasting, lights blazing into our windows, and a Greek man calling to us, "You must move!"
A man’s frantic voice continued, "The water freighter needs to dock, please back up." As my night vision became more focused, I saw a man standing in a small blue six-foot wooden boat holding onto our rail. Con and I turned and saw a wall of lights moving toward us. Con raced below, turned on the boat, grabbed a pair of underwear, I was right behind, grabbing the GPS and stepping behind the wheel. A freighter was 75 meters from our boat, lined up and moving forward as if it planned to split us in half. Con quickly moved to the bow to undo the anchor snubber, so we could lift anchor, and before he got that far, we heard the freighter begin to drop his huge anchor and lay his massive chain, still moving forward toward us laying chain right across our chain!
"Tell the captain to stop!" Con shouted to the man in the wooden boat. "We must pull up our anchor, he is laying it across our chain and we cannot move!"
The man zoomed off to the freighter to relay the message. At the same time, Con released the snubber and let out all our chain, 100 meters. I backed up. The freighter didn't slow. The man raced back saying meekly, "The captain said, "I'm a working vessel', sorry, you must move back."
A wall of steel crossed our bow so close, I could have climbed aboard. It’s chain pulled at our chain and Big Sky lurched forward into a near collision. I kept Big Sky in reverse, but couldn’t move more than a few meters from the freighter, locked by his chain. We were trapped on the freighter’s starboard side and our anchor and chain were under the ship on its port side. After many pleas to: "Tell the captain to back up..." and "We need just five minutes..." We realized we were dealing with an arrogant, belligerent person and our words were wasted. And then it got worse... The freighter began a 90 degree turn to tie at the shore, skirting our bow by a half meter and when the prop wash hit us, we nearly rocked into the steel side of the freighter.
Con had to keep blasting the bow thrusters to keep off the boat, and the crew leaning over watching, had sympathy on their faces. We could tell they were embarrassed by their captain and kept shrugging. One called down, "Drop your chain, drop your chain!" One hundred 10 mm galvanized chain and a 50 KG anchor, a value of nearly two thousand euros! No. The Greek man in the wooden ship said, “The vessel will stay for 12 hours.” We had been attempting to avoid collision for an hour and knew it couldn’t last much longer, let alone 12 hours! The man calmly said, “Give me your chain and I will take it to the other side.”
The freighter crew held lights for Con as he worked in the anchor locker to free the chain. I stayed at the wheel keeping Big Sky in reverse. The chain freed, (a feat Con didn’t believe possible) tied a fender to it, and handed it to the Greek man who dragged it under the freighter to the other side. Now free, I motored to the other side and Con retrieved the chain, reattached it, and attempted to lift our anchor. The man remained with us until we were safe. All the while, the freighter captain would not come out to speak to us and we told the Greek man to tell him that we would have to report his dangerous behaviour to the Port Authorities. We didn’t. As daylight began to show, we’d just finished re-anchoring and went back to bed. In the morning, we rowed ashore passing the ship with the recalcitrant captain deciding to ignore him and enjoy the delicious fish and tour the beautiful village. As night was setting, Con rowed ashore again, and checked us out of Schengen and returned our Greek cruising log. He didn't report the Captain from Hell, since we’d be having a slight infraction ourselves not planning to leave Greece right away. Instead, we picked up anchor the day after, and the "12 hour" freighter stay was so far more than 24 hours.
We arrived during daylight hours to the pretty anchorage on Kastellorizo. All was perfect until 4:30am when we sprinted out of bed and into the cockpit (me in my housecoat; Con in the nude) to the sounds of horns blasting, lights blazing into our windows, and a Greek man calling to us, "You must move!"
A man’s frantic voice continued, "The water freighter needs to dock, please back up." As my night vision became more focused, I saw a man standing in a small blue six-foot wooden boat holding onto our rail. Con and I turned and saw a wall of lights moving toward us. Con raced below, turned on the boat, grabbed a pair of underwear, I was right behind, grabbing the GPS and stepping behind the wheel. A freighter was 75 meters from our boat, lined up and moving forward as if it planned to split us in half. Con quickly moved to the bow to undo the anchor snubber, so we could lift anchor, and before he got that far, we heard the freighter begin to drop his huge anchor and lay his massive chain, still moving forward toward us laying chain right across our chain!
"Tell the captain to stop!" Con shouted to the man in the wooden boat. "We must pull up our anchor, he is laying it across our chain and we cannot move!"
The man zoomed off to the freighter to relay the message. At the same time, Con released the snubber and let out all our chain, 100 meters. I backed up. The freighter didn't slow. The man raced back saying meekly, "The captain said, "I'm a working vessel', sorry, you must move back."
A wall of steel crossed our bow so close, I could have climbed aboard. It’s chain pulled at our chain and Big Sky lurched forward into a near collision. I kept Big Sky in reverse, but couldn’t move more than a few meters from the freighter, locked by his chain. We were trapped on the freighter’s starboard side and our anchor and chain were under the ship on its port side. After many pleas to: "Tell the captain to back up..." and "We need just five minutes..." We realized we were dealing with an arrogant, belligerent person and our words were wasted. And then it got worse... The freighter began a 90 degree turn to tie at the shore, skirting our bow by a half meter and when the prop wash hit us, we nearly rocked into the steel side of the freighter.
Con had to keep blasting the bow thrusters to keep off the boat, and the crew leaning over watching, had sympathy on their faces. We could tell they were embarrassed by their captain and kept shrugging. One called down, "Drop your chain, drop your chain!" One hundred 10 mm galvanized chain and a 50 KG anchor, a value of nearly two thousand euros! No. The Greek man in the wooden ship said, “The vessel will stay for 12 hours.” We had been attempting to avoid collision for an hour and knew it couldn’t last much longer, let alone 12 hours! The man calmly said, “Give me your chain and I will take it to the other side.”
The freighter crew held lights for Con as he worked in the anchor locker to free the chain. I stayed at the wheel keeping Big Sky in reverse. The chain freed, (a feat Con didn’t believe possible) tied a fender to it, and handed it to the Greek man who dragged it under the freighter to the other side. Now free, I motored to the other side and Con retrieved the chain, reattached it, and attempted to lift our anchor. The man remained with us until we were safe. All the while, the freighter captain would not come out to speak to us and we told the Greek man to tell him that we would have to report his dangerous behaviour to the Port Authorities. We didn’t. As daylight began to show, we’d just finished re-anchoring and went back to bed. In the morning, we rowed ashore passing the ship with the recalcitrant captain deciding to ignore him and enjoy the delicious fish and tour the beautiful village. As night was setting, Con rowed ashore again, and checked us out of Schengen and returned our Greek cruising log. He didn't report the Captain from Hell, since we’d be having a slight infraction ourselves not planning to leave Greece right away. Instead, we picked up anchor the day after, and the "12 hour" freighter stay was so far more than 24 hours.
Above: Kastelorizo. Click on any photo to enlarge and see why this Greek island is our favourite.
September 18 -- HAPPY BIRTHDAY new momma Lindsey.
1750 NM Completed
September 20 – After tossing around at least a dozen different sailing/wintering plans, we landed in Cyprus, 1750 NM from Valencia with the last leg a 30-hour overnight sail from Kastellorizo, (25 hours on the engine and 5 under sail). We only had two glitches: The Captain from hell, and our arrival in Limassol when the docking line was sucked into our prop. Staff at the marina are exceptionally friendly, but our docking was not without frustration. We motored into place, bow first, and the helpful marinara began pushing our stern with his tender believing we wanted to dock stern first. Once we communicated our intention, Con lined us up again. I tossed the bow lines, and carried the stern leader line back to hold us off the dock. It was sucked into the prop when Big Sky was accidentally left in reverse. Thirty minutes later, a temporary set up was put into place and tomorrow a diver will free the line from our prop, and replace the mooring lines with longer ones.
September 21, 2014
Wind is howling in Limassol, and locals are getting ready for a sailing regatta, even testing their spinnakers (used in 10-15 knot winds). By race time, the winds didn't hold back, blowing a steady 40 knots when they set off on their race. Returning, the wind kept a steady 40 knots and one after another they returned to the marina creating enormous chaos. The marinaras docked one boat at a time, using three zodiacs to push the boats around attempting to keep them from crashing into the already docked boats, Big Sky being one of them. We stayed vigilant port-side with extra fenders in hand and needed to use them often. When the wind died down, we got out with washing equipment scrubbing the month-long salt and dirt that had accumulated topsides. Inside, we gave the boat a thorough cleaning and polishing and it sparkled like brand new again.
September 18 -- HAPPY BIRTHDAY new momma Lindsey.
1750 NM Completed
September 20 – After tossing around at least a dozen different sailing/wintering plans, we landed in Cyprus, 1750 NM from Valencia with the last leg a 30-hour overnight sail from Kastellorizo, (25 hours on the engine and 5 under sail). We only had two glitches: The Captain from hell, and our arrival in Limassol when the docking line was sucked into our prop. Staff at the marina are exceptionally friendly, but our docking was not without frustration. We motored into place, bow first, and the helpful marinara began pushing our stern with his tender believing we wanted to dock stern first. Once we communicated our intention, Con lined us up again. I tossed the bow lines, and carried the stern leader line back to hold us off the dock. It was sucked into the prop when Big Sky was accidentally left in reverse. Thirty minutes later, a temporary set up was put into place and tomorrow a diver will free the line from our prop, and replace the mooring lines with longer ones.
September 21, 2014
Wind is howling in Limassol, and locals are getting ready for a sailing regatta, even testing their spinnakers (used in 10-15 knot winds). By race time, the winds didn't hold back, blowing a steady 40 knots when they set off on their race. Returning, the wind kept a steady 40 knots and one after another they returned to the marina creating enormous chaos. The marinaras docked one boat at a time, using three zodiacs to push the boats around attempting to keep them from crashing into the already docked boats, Big Sky being one of them. We stayed vigilant port-side with extra fenders in hand and needed to use them often. When the wind died down, we got out with washing equipment scrubbing the month-long salt and dirt that had accumulated topsides. Inside, we gave the boat a thorough cleaning and polishing and it sparkled like brand new again.
To Canada
Life and Death Visits our Family
October 2014 – We’re reminded of how precious life is with the birth of our newest granddaughter Katelyn Irene Loring, an adorable healthy baby, born September 11th, and the passing of Nomie, Con’s dear mom who left us peacefully at 98, October 10th.
With heavy hearts we said, "Good bye" to Con's mom who died peacefully in the hospital October 10th. "Nomie" or "Ma" as she was best known lived to the healthy age of 98 1/2 and lived independently all but the last few days when she was admitted to the hospital. Con left Canada immediately for The Netherlands last Friday upon hearing of her failing health, but sadly she died while he was boarding his flight. Nomie was lovingly cared for by Albertine, Geert and Anna who checked on her daily. There wasn't a day that went by when Nomie didn't have a family visitor, as three of her six children lived minutes from her beautiful independent care facility; two of her nine grandchildren also live close and visited weekly along with their children, all under five. She enjoyed their smiles and energy.
Nick and Brit (Con's two daughters from Alberta and Saskatchewan) joined Con to participate in the family gatherings as we all remembered a remarkable woman. I remained in Canada to be with Lindsey and Les to help with Kate, now almost a month old. Next week, I'll fly to The Netherlands to be with Con and family.
Nomie is best remembered for her infectious happiness and total contentment in life. Her greatest joy was watching her six children; nine grandchildren; and nine great grandchildren growing up. Nomie lived through nearly 100 years of world history sharing incredible tidbits from time to time. When her Canadian grandchildren were born, she decided she better learn English to best communicate with them, and did really well. For that I was always grateful, since my Dutch is very basic. She lived well and was loved.
October 25 -- Life and death is a gift to the living and it creates new paths and reminders for us to enjoy all of life’s moments. No one knows how many breathes we're allotted in a lifetime and we want to ensure every single one is taken up with the people we love and enjoying our fascinating world.
Life and Death Visits our Family
October 2014 – We’re reminded of how precious life is with the birth of our newest granddaughter Katelyn Irene Loring, an adorable healthy baby, born September 11th, and the passing of Nomie, Con’s dear mom who left us peacefully at 98, October 10th.
With heavy hearts we said, "Good bye" to Con's mom who died peacefully in the hospital October 10th. "Nomie" or "Ma" as she was best known lived to the healthy age of 98 1/2 and lived independently all but the last few days when she was admitted to the hospital. Con left Canada immediately for The Netherlands last Friday upon hearing of her failing health, but sadly she died while he was boarding his flight. Nomie was lovingly cared for by Albertine, Geert and Anna who checked on her daily. There wasn't a day that went by when Nomie didn't have a family visitor, as three of her six children lived minutes from her beautiful independent care facility; two of her nine grandchildren also live close and visited weekly along with their children, all under five. She enjoyed their smiles and energy.
Nick and Brit (Con's two daughters from Alberta and Saskatchewan) joined Con to participate in the family gatherings as we all remembered a remarkable woman. I remained in Canada to be with Lindsey and Les to help with Kate, now almost a month old. Next week, I'll fly to The Netherlands to be with Con and family.
Nomie is best remembered for her infectious happiness and total contentment in life. Her greatest joy was watching her six children; nine grandchildren; and nine great grandchildren growing up. Nomie lived through nearly 100 years of world history sharing incredible tidbits from time to time. When her Canadian grandchildren were born, she decided she better learn English to best communicate with them, and did really well. For that I was always grateful, since my Dutch is very basic. She lived well and was loved.
October 25 -- Life and death is a gift to the living and it creates new paths and reminders for us to enjoy all of life’s moments. No one knows how many breathes we're allotted in a lifetime and we want to ensure every single one is taken up with the people we love and enjoying our fascinating world.
Back to Cyprus
October 29 -- Soaking up the Vitamin Sea
Con returned to Cyprus with the flu, so we booked into a pretty sea-side resort in Paphos for two days to soak up the Cypriot sunshine hoping to speed up his recovery. When the morning sun streamed into our room, Con rose from bed all better.
Settled back on the boat, I woke early. Con called over enthusiastically, “Look at our new neighbours; they arrived in the night.”
Hmmm, I thought, the sailing community is finally arriving, since there’s only one other live aboard in Limassol. I stepped out into the warm November sunshine. Docked at the entrance was an 81-meter wall of a yacht (266.5 foot). Big Sky is 15 meters. We could line up 6 Big Sky's alongside it and could fit sideways with room to spare. We looked it up. The yacht is owned by Heidi Horten, one of the richest women in the world. She married Helmut Horten in 1960, 32 years his junior. In 1933, Helmut worked in a Jewish-owned German department store. The owners fled to the USA and Helmut acquired their store, enjoying a good relationship with the Nazi's. From there, he acquired many more. He died in 1987 and Heidi inherited more than 1 billion dollars. She commissioned this 97-meter luxury yacht, Carinthia XII, the 12th largest such vessel in the world. The yacht requires 28 crew for 12 passengers. Roughly speaking, a captain makes 1,000 euro per foot which means this captain could take home a quarter of a million euros per year.
We woke to a down pour so Con donned his rain gear and a big smile and swabbed the deck. That afternoon, we purchased high-speed internet and cable aboard. For 44 euro per month we can stream anything and watch TV. After flipping through channels we couldn’t find anything of interest on TV and selected a 34 per month internet deal. We’re streaming CBC Radio and stations around the world, and watching TV shows via our laptops.
Cyprus was granted independence from the Brits in 1960, however, the British electrical outlets still remain. Drivers sit on the right with and driving on the left.
October 29 -- Soaking up the Vitamin Sea
Con returned to Cyprus with the flu, so we booked into a pretty sea-side resort in Paphos for two days to soak up the Cypriot sunshine hoping to speed up his recovery. When the morning sun streamed into our room, Con rose from bed all better.
Settled back on the boat, I woke early. Con called over enthusiastically, “Look at our new neighbours; they arrived in the night.”
Hmmm, I thought, the sailing community is finally arriving, since there’s only one other live aboard in Limassol. I stepped out into the warm November sunshine. Docked at the entrance was an 81-meter wall of a yacht (266.5 foot). Big Sky is 15 meters. We could line up 6 Big Sky's alongside it and could fit sideways with room to spare. We looked it up. The yacht is owned by Heidi Horten, one of the richest women in the world. She married Helmut Horten in 1960, 32 years his junior. In 1933, Helmut worked in a Jewish-owned German department store. The owners fled to the USA and Helmut acquired their store, enjoying a good relationship with the Nazi's. From there, he acquired many more. He died in 1987 and Heidi inherited more than 1 billion dollars. She commissioned this 97-meter luxury yacht, Carinthia XII, the 12th largest such vessel in the world. The yacht requires 28 crew for 12 passengers. Roughly speaking, a captain makes 1,000 euro per foot which means this captain could take home a quarter of a million euros per year.
We woke to a down pour so Con donned his rain gear and a big smile and swabbed the deck. That afternoon, we purchased high-speed internet and cable aboard. For 44 euro per month we can stream anything and watch TV. After flipping through channels we couldn’t find anything of interest on TV and selected a 34 per month internet deal. We’re streaming CBC Radio and stations around the world, and watching TV shows via our laptops.
Cyprus was granted independence from the Brits in 1960, however, the British electrical outlets still remain. Drivers sit on the right with and driving on the left.
November 3 - 5 -- Settling into the neighbourhood
We joined the marina gym, a pristine spa club and go religiously each day. It has bran-spankin' new machines outfitted with Wi-Fi, TV, music videos, and details I have yet to figure out related to movement, calorie burn, heart rate, etc. There are dozens of circuit machines and fitness instructors to help get you coordinated. I’m loving the Zumba classes twice a week. I indulged in a pedicure the other day, and a hair cut (we each get one as part of our membership). The outdoor swimming pool is too exposed to the well-dressed lunch folks sitting poolside. We end our workouts with the sauna and steam room. Early this morning, we cycled to Akrotiri, the salt lake south east of Limassol hoping to spot flamingos, but instead saw this guy swimming closer and closer to the pelican. I said to Con, "What's he doing swimming up to the pelican, it'll likely attack him." At that moment, the pelican spread its six foot or so long wings and hop-flew onto the man's head. The man swam to shore and the pelican jumped onto his out-stretched arm and he walked him to shore. In all our travels, we've seen many strange and wonderful things, but never have we seen a pet pelican. The man appears to be in great shape, but we would too if we had a bird to swim with. Still curious, we cycled closer to the man to say kalimara good morning, but the man didn’t respond, so we turned our attention to the bird telling it that he was ridiculously large.
November 12 – We selected Cyprus for winter because it has the warmest weather in the Med. It's another beautiful sunny warm day. People sail year round. We’ve watched lots of Israeli-flagged boats come for a few days (it's an over-night sail from here) and there are USA Delaware registered and flagged boats arrive (usually Russian). Big Sky is a little pip squeak in the marina with so many crew-maned yachts, mega-yachts, motor boats, and massive catamarans. Any live-a-aboards seem to be crew.
November 13 - 17 -- Fantastic lightning and thunder storms pass overhead from the north darkening the sky, leaving sunshine and warmth in its wake. A few cracks have been right overhead and we hold our breath hoping that the electric charge didn’t go through the boat. Twice frays have knocked out a few of our electronics. It’s 31 degrees today. We cycled to the dentist to replace my crown a cost of 300 euro, a third of the cost in Canada. George, our Cypriot dentist uses a camera inside the mouth for close-up's and he shares everything he's doing on a screen. He explained everything to me as viewed from my 40 euro panorama X-ray. The work done by our Calgary friend and endodontist Charlie who has sadly passed away a few years ago received the highest marks from George.
We stopped at the local Carrefour grocery store for veggies and other supplies and picked up a Kolokasi pictured below. Having never seen or heard of such a root we had to try it. Apparently they are poisonous in their raw form, so we were given strict instructions by the sweet veggie ladies on how to prepare and cook them. Do NOT submerge them in water. Peel them and wipe them down with paper (not cloth) then cook in oil. They are a traditional Cypriot dish, since they're only grown here and on one other Greek island. Umm, how can I put this delicately, they taste terrible.
We're working with George, an excellent canvass maker who is preparing more sunbrella cushions for our cockpit. George, a stainless steel artist will begin a new construction of our bimini and dodger as per Con’s drawing. Yes, George is our dentist, another George is the upholsterer, and another George is the stainless steel person.
Below: Pelican; Kilokasi; and kangaroo meat (never tried it and don't think I will again).
We joined the marina gym, a pristine spa club and go religiously each day. It has bran-spankin' new machines outfitted with Wi-Fi, TV, music videos, and details I have yet to figure out related to movement, calorie burn, heart rate, etc. There are dozens of circuit machines and fitness instructors to help get you coordinated. I’m loving the Zumba classes twice a week. I indulged in a pedicure the other day, and a hair cut (we each get one as part of our membership). The outdoor swimming pool is too exposed to the well-dressed lunch folks sitting poolside. We end our workouts with the sauna and steam room. Early this morning, we cycled to Akrotiri, the salt lake south east of Limassol hoping to spot flamingos, but instead saw this guy swimming closer and closer to the pelican. I said to Con, "What's he doing swimming up to the pelican, it'll likely attack him." At that moment, the pelican spread its six foot or so long wings and hop-flew onto the man's head. The man swam to shore and the pelican jumped onto his out-stretched arm and he walked him to shore. In all our travels, we've seen many strange and wonderful things, but never have we seen a pet pelican. The man appears to be in great shape, but we would too if we had a bird to swim with. Still curious, we cycled closer to the man to say kalimara good morning, but the man didn’t respond, so we turned our attention to the bird telling it that he was ridiculously large.
November 12 – We selected Cyprus for winter because it has the warmest weather in the Med. It's another beautiful sunny warm day. People sail year round. We’ve watched lots of Israeli-flagged boats come for a few days (it's an over-night sail from here) and there are USA Delaware registered and flagged boats arrive (usually Russian). Big Sky is a little pip squeak in the marina with so many crew-maned yachts, mega-yachts, motor boats, and massive catamarans. Any live-a-aboards seem to be crew.
November 13 - 17 -- Fantastic lightning and thunder storms pass overhead from the north darkening the sky, leaving sunshine and warmth in its wake. A few cracks have been right overhead and we hold our breath hoping that the electric charge didn’t go through the boat. Twice frays have knocked out a few of our electronics. It’s 31 degrees today. We cycled to the dentist to replace my crown a cost of 300 euro, a third of the cost in Canada. George, our Cypriot dentist uses a camera inside the mouth for close-up's and he shares everything he's doing on a screen. He explained everything to me as viewed from my 40 euro panorama X-ray. The work done by our Calgary friend and endodontist Charlie who has sadly passed away a few years ago received the highest marks from George.
We stopped at the local Carrefour grocery store for veggies and other supplies and picked up a Kolokasi pictured below. Having never seen or heard of such a root we had to try it. Apparently they are poisonous in their raw form, so we were given strict instructions by the sweet veggie ladies on how to prepare and cook them. Do NOT submerge them in water. Peel them and wipe them down with paper (not cloth) then cook in oil. They are a traditional Cypriot dish, since they're only grown here and on one other Greek island. Umm, how can I put this delicately, they taste terrible.
We're working with George, an excellent canvass maker who is preparing more sunbrella cushions for our cockpit. George, a stainless steel artist will begin a new construction of our bimini and dodger as per Con’s drawing. Yes, George is our dentist, another George is the upholsterer, and another George is the stainless steel person.
Below: Pelican; Kilokasi; and kangaroo meat (never tried it and don't think I will again).
November 20 -- Good Morning Cyprus
The sun rises quickly over Lebanon just across the water, peaking into the marina at 6:30 am. It's impossible to wake up without a smile. For us, bikes are essential and we put on about 12 km each day. It’s a vibrant (new) city with everything we need. Late November, people are swimming, paddle surfers are out, and people walk and cycle along the beautiful water front promenade.
We’ve had a series of dental appointments for a few trouble spots. It’s incredible the top-notch service, professionalism, affordable prices, and no wait. Within seven days, I’ve had an exam, cap taken off, reshaping my tooth, mold made for new crown, technician arrives so I can select colour, and tooth fitted. 300 euro.
December 5 -- This morning, Con went for a swim in the sea, and in the afternoon, we drove to Mt. Olympus in our rental. Eventually there will be enough snow in the mountains for skiing.
December 7 -- Caulking the Windows!
One of our winter task was digging out the awful sticky, black-tar-like caulking around the pilot house windows and re-caulking them. Not a task one wants to do very often.
December 12 -- In the Netherlands; Tomorrow Canada!
We left Cyprus in 20 degrees arriving in The Netherland’s cold damp winter weather. Monday, we’ll be in Canada spending our first Christmas with the kids and grand kids in six years.
Below: a serious car pile up between Red Deer and Calgary.
The sun rises quickly over Lebanon just across the water, peaking into the marina at 6:30 am. It's impossible to wake up without a smile. For us, bikes are essential and we put on about 12 km each day. It’s a vibrant (new) city with everything we need. Late November, people are swimming, paddle surfers are out, and people walk and cycle along the beautiful water front promenade.
We’ve had a series of dental appointments for a few trouble spots. It’s incredible the top-notch service, professionalism, affordable prices, and no wait. Within seven days, I’ve had an exam, cap taken off, reshaping my tooth, mold made for new crown, technician arrives so I can select colour, and tooth fitted. 300 euro.
December 5 -- This morning, Con went for a swim in the sea, and in the afternoon, we drove to Mt. Olympus in our rental. Eventually there will be enough snow in the mountains for skiing.
December 7 -- Caulking the Windows!
One of our winter task was digging out the awful sticky, black-tar-like caulking around the pilot house windows and re-caulking them. Not a task one wants to do very often.
December 12 -- In the Netherlands; Tomorrow Canada!
We left Cyprus in 20 degrees arriving in The Netherland’s cold damp winter weather. Monday, we’ll be in Canada spending our first Christmas with the kids and grand kids in six years.
Below: a serious car pile up between Red Deer and Calgary.
In Canada
December 19 -- My 60th Birthday Party!
Courtney and Hailey collected us at the airport returning for a serious card games of concentration. Try to do that jet lagged! We attended Hailey Spanish Emersion School Christmas concert and then scooted to Dex’s house to get to work on Christmas presents for their moms and dads. With barely time to spare, we bundled Dex and Hailey in the car for a delightful (and well done) theatre production of Peter Pan at Storybook Theatre. The kids were on the edges of their seats. Dex kept asking, "It's not real, is it?" and, "They're not real pirates are they?" Hailey in a panic that the play may end asked at each scene chang, "It's not over, is it?"
December 25th -- Our visit to Canada has been wrapped up in layers of family and friends, doing Christmas craft activities, shopping, and celebrating my 60th surprise birthday party. For my 60th birthday, Con and I had a sleep-over with six-year-old Dex, and five-year-old Hailey at Nick's house. In the morning, Con, Dex, Hailey, an action figure, and a stuffed owl helped to make birthday pancakes for me and then spoiled me with presents. Later that night, I was excited to see Lindsey, Les and Katelyn who drove 1 1/2 hours from Red Deer to Calgary for dinner. Walking into the restaurant, my eyes were locked on Katelyn and I totally missed that the restaurant was filled with our friends and family until they shouted, "Surprise!" I couldn't stop laughing and smiling for the rest of the night. Con, Lindsey and Courtney planned the whole thing! After dinner, we drove to Red Deer enjoying happy, content Kate. Lindsey and I took her swimming for the first time. Nick and Dex are arriving for Christmas, driving up from Calgary for a sleep over and tomorrow, Courtney and Hailey will arrive.
December 27th, we remember my beautiful mom, who passed away peacefully last December.
February 15, 1927 – December 27, 2013. I miss her and think of her everyday.
December 29 – In Calgary with Courtney and Hailey it’s -18 degrees. We asked five-year-old Hailey if she wanted to go swimming, "Yes!" She responded enthusiastically, adding, "Inside or outside?"
Tomorrow, we fly to Saskatoon, rent a car and drive to Carrot River where the weather is a balmy -40 to -45 degrees at the moment, warming to -10.
December 31, 2014-- HAPPY NEW YEAR from Carrot River!
Weather warmed from -45 to -15 this morning, so Con and I put on all our clothes (three layers beneath snow pants and jacket) borrowed Arctic-like boots from Kris and Brit and followed seven-year-old Nolan for an hour as we traipsed all over their property. We followed coyote tracks for a while, all the while wondering if they were Rosco's (their dog's), nevertheless, it made for a great adventure.
December 19 -- My 60th Birthday Party!
Courtney and Hailey collected us at the airport returning for a serious card games of concentration. Try to do that jet lagged! We attended Hailey Spanish Emersion School Christmas concert and then scooted to Dex’s house to get to work on Christmas presents for their moms and dads. With barely time to spare, we bundled Dex and Hailey in the car for a delightful (and well done) theatre production of Peter Pan at Storybook Theatre. The kids were on the edges of their seats. Dex kept asking, "It's not real, is it?" and, "They're not real pirates are they?" Hailey in a panic that the play may end asked at each scene chang, "It's not over, is it?"
December 25th -- Our visit to Canada has been wrapped up in layers of family and friends, doing Christmas craft activities, shopping, and celebrating my 60th surprise birthday party. For my 60th birthday, Con and I had a sleep-over with six-year-old Dex, and five-year-old Hailey at Nick's house. In the morning, Con, Dex, Hailey, an action figure, and a stuffed owl helped to make birthday pancakes for me and then spoiled me with presents. Later that night, I was excited to see Lindsey, Les and Katelyn who drove 1 1/2 hours from Red Deer to Calgary for dinner. Walking into the restaurant, my eyes were locked on Katelyn and I totally missed that the restaurant was filled with our friends and family until they shouted, "Surprise!" I couldn't stop laughing and smiling for the rest of the night. Con, Lindsey and Courtney planned the whole thing! After dinner, we drove to Red Deer enjoying happy, content Kate. Lindsey and I took her swimming for the first time. Nick and Dex are arriving for Christmas, driving up from Calgary for a sleep over and tomorrow, Courtney and Hailey will arrive.
December 27th, we remember my beautiful mom, who passed away peacefully last December.
February 15, 1927 – December 27, 2013. I miss her and think of her everyday.
December 29 – In Calgary with Courtney and Hailey it’s -18 degrees. We asked five-year-old Hailey if she wanted to go swimming, "Yes!" She responded enthusiastically, adding, "Inside or outside?"
Tomorrow, we fly to Saskatoon, rent a car and drive to Carrot River where the weather is a balmy -40 to -45 degrees at the moment, warming to -10.
December 31, 2014-- HAPPY NEW YEAR from Carrot River!
Weather warmed from -45 to -15 this morning, so Con and I put on all our clothes (three layers beneath snow pants and jacket) borrowed Arctic-like boots from Kris and Brit and followed seven-year-old Nolan for an hour as we traipsed all over their property. We followed coyote tracks for a while, all the while wondering if they were Rosco's (their dog's), nevertheless, it made for a great adventure.
