Above: Big Sky at sunset off Methoni, Greece
Sailing Season 2016
(August to December from the Aegean Sea to the Ionian Sea)
(August to December from the Aegean Sea to the Ionian Sea)
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August 19 -- Back on the Boat
Arriving in gorgeous Greece from Canada, a 24-hour journey, we're taking it easy catching up on sleep in a pretty sea-side air conditioned hotel in Kilada. Big Sky is in the Kilada Yard on the hard. We rose early, beating the 30-39 degree heat arriving later, drove to the boat to prepare her for sea. Taking off the tarp, adding water, and shopping for provisions. She’ll be launched this afternoon, a day earlier than planned, but that's okay, we'll still hang out in the hotel and tomorrow head off for anchorages.
August 21 -- Underway
The Kilada Yard gently lowered Big Sky back in the water a day ahead of schedule, advising us that they'd keep us tied to the lift slip overnight so we could more easily load our groceries and bags aboard, provided we move her before 9 am. However, the yard had to react to an emergency in the night and relocated Big Sky to a location inaccessible by land. We arrived just as the sun was rising, and realized we now had to make a new plan. Big Sky was accessible via another ship with a sketchy entrance plank. Slipping off our shoes, we tip toed onto the boat while the occupants slept, untied the macrame tangle of knots freeing Big Sky, and then quietly motored to the Kilada town quay. The town has grown on us. Our first impression was harsh, when the 90+ year old man backed into our rental as we drove down Main Street, followed by the placid men who sit around the tables coming to life, racing over to investigate. One owly man kept shouting in our faces that it was our fault... Long story short (in June's entry) the police came and saw that the old guy was at fault. Our second impression of Kilada is completely different. "Enjoy" the gas station attendant said to Con when he pulled a cold water from the cooler, "No charge", cappuccinos each morning were €1.30, and the friendly "hello's" were free.
Currently underway to the pretty island of Spetses, south of Athens on the Peloponnese, we're having a great sail, 7 knots on 15 knot beam winds. Can't get much better than that!
Arriving in gorgeous Greece from Canada, a 24-hour journey, we're taking it easy catching up on sleep in a pretty sea-side air conditioned hotel in Kilada. Big Sky is in the Kilada Yard on the hard. We rose early, beating the 30-39 degree heat arriving later, drove to the boat to prepare her for sea. Taking off the tarp, adding water, and shopping for provisions. She’ll be launched this afternoon, a day earlier than planned, but that's okay, we'll still hang out in the hotel and tomorrow head off for anchorages.
August 21 -- Underway
The Kilada Yard gently lowered Big Sky back in the water a day ahead of schedule, advising us that they'd keep us tied to the lift slip overnight so we could more easily load our groceries and bags aboard, provided we move her before 9 am. However, the yard had to react to an emergency in the night and relocated Big Sky to a location inaccessible by land. We arrived just as the sun was rising, and realized we now had to make a new plan. Big Sky was accessible via another ship with a sketchy entrance plank. Slipping off our shoes, we tip toed onto the boat while the occupants slept, untied the macrame tangle of knots freeing Big Sky, and then quietly motored to the Kilada town quay. The town has grown on us. Our first impression was harsh, when the 90+ year old man backed into our rental as we drove down Main Street, followed by the placid men who sit around the tables coming to life, racing over to investigate. One owly man kept shouting in our faces that it was our fault... Long story short (in June's entry) the police came and saw that the old guy was at fault. Our second impression of Kilada is completely different. "Enjoy" the gas station attendant said to Con when he pulled a cold water from the cooler, "No charge", cappuccinos each morning were €1.30, and the friendly "hello's" were free.
Currently underway to the pretty island of Spetses, south of Athens on the Peloponnese, we're having a great sail, 7 knots on 15 knot beam winds. Can't get much better than that!
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Our anchorage in the small bay on the island of Spetses was a lot different than our first visit earlier this summer. We dropped anchor early in the morning, and by midday, enormous mega yachts dropped anchor around us taking lines ashore. It was a mini San Tropez, with the super-sized boats lined up like a parking lot. We were floating in the centre on our anchor. Vacations are in full swing here with more boats than we've seen in our ten years sailing. Turkey's loss is Greece's gain. Since the attempted coup in Turkey, cruisers and vacation charter gullets have high-tailed it out of there for more peaceful waters. We say, "Right on!" as it's time Greece receives some well-deserved tourist dollars. Nearing sundown, the Greek Coast Guard told us we must take a line ashore or leave. We left. Anchoring next door in the larger bay, there was room to swing and by morning, we departed for the island of Milos. It was a 74-NM journey, all on the motor since the wind was non existent. Milos, once a hangout for the British Navy in WW1, has extraordinary beaches, hot springs, and colourful cliffs made of chalk which are still mined, and of course the Cyclades white-washed houses climbing the mountain sides with the church being the "King of the Castle". Con and I had a chance to reacquaint ourselves with friends Tony and Sally aboard the classic sailboat Ron Glas at anchor in the Milos bay before they set sail to Crete. A strong Meltemi wind is expected in a few days, so we pulled up anchor in the Milos bay and moved to the marina dock. Our cost: 8 euro per night, 4 euro more for all the electricity we can use.
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August 28 -- And on the seventh day, the Meltemi rested...
When a Meltemi is about to arrive, first we see a mist roll in, followed by a sky filled with something, maybe dust, and then it blows and blows. When it finally blows itself out, the sky is so crystal clear that it seems you can see further than ever before. The winds on Milos blew a steady 50-70 KPH. Many boats arrived throughout the blow, and most tucked in to the pontoon like us, or put out more chain at anchor in the bay. The sailing tour boats still sold tickets, and to our amazement still went out in the weather loaded with the innocent. What a surprise they must have had out there with the enormous waves and high winds! One 42-foot sail boat didn't have a square foot top sides for another tourist. But, by day's end, all tour boats returned and we watched to see if they kissed the ground when disembarking. They mostly looked worn out.
Moving on to Elafonisis, a 10-hour motor, serious dolphins passed us going the other way. No time to frolic at the bow. Once passed, one circled a spot and banged his tail on the surface of the water, perhaps attracting the fish. At one point, we detoured south to see what the BIG blue thing was floating in the sea. Ironically, it was a recycle bin. We called Olympia Radio (Greek authorities) but they didn't answer. Likely they're too busy in the Gythio harbour. (See paragraph below about the over-zealous Port Authorities who kept us busy for two days just checking in declaring our papers were incomplete. These are the same papers we've used for 10 years.)
When a Meltemi is about to arrive, first we see a mist roll in, followed by a sky filled with something, maybe dust, and then it blows and blows. When it finally blows itself out, the sky is so crystal clear that it seems you can see further than ever before. The winds on Milos blew a steady 50-70 KPH. Many boats arrived throughout the blow, and most tucked in to the pontoon like us, or put out more chain at anchor in the bay. The sailing tour boats still sold tickets, and to our amazement still went out in the weather loaded with the innocent. What a surprise they must have had out there with the enormous waves and high winds! One 42-foot sail boat didn't have a square foot top sides for another tourist. But, by day's end, all tour boats returned and we watched to see if they kissed the ground when disembarking. They mostly looked worn out.
Moving on to Elafonisis, a 10-hour motor, serious dolphins passed us going the other way. No time to frolic at the bow. Once passed, one circled a spot and banged his tail on the surface of the water, perhaps attracting the fish. At one point, we detoured south to see what the BIG blue thing was floating in the sea. Ironically, it was a recycle bin. We called Olympia Radio (Greek authorities) but they didn't answer. Likely they're too busy in the Gythio harbour. (See paragraph below about the over-zealous Port Authorities who kept us busy for two days just checking in declaring our papers were incomplete. These are the same papers we've used for 10 years.)
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September 3 -- From Elafonisis, we cut a deep path up the south end of the Peloponnese inlet (the carved out finger-like (claw-like) formation, one of the few places we’ve not visited. In Pytra, we dropped anchor, followed by two other boats, Brits and Danes. On our second night, we all met at the beach at 7 pm for a buffet-style barbecue. The next morning, Con and I motor-sailed to a beautiful, historic town of Gythio, and before we could say, "Aw, we've arrived," the first set of three sets of Port Authorities arrived requesting that we check in. For perspective, our first port of entry, Kastellerozo authorities told us, "No need to check again with authorities until you leave Greece." It took two days to check in, six port Authorities, (one called in for overtime), one police station stop with the officer making many phone calls. Next task will be payment. Could take us a few hours to do that! The Meltemi is blowing all around us, so we may stay here a few more days and become tourists. Two boats beside us (pictured) were confiscated as they were involved in illegal activities and their owners arrested.
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September 5 -- Our attempt to rent a car in Gythio was foiled today having suffered rejection. Following dozens of car rentals throughout Europe including Greece, the highly officious car-rental woman in this highly officious town turned us away for lack of an international driver’s licence, something we carried in the past and were only asked to produce in Syria. (It’s simply a driver’s licence in different languages.) Instead, we boarded a bus to the Diros Caves, a pleasant 40-minute drive from Gythio, nearly depositing us at the Cave ticket counter.
The caves are astounding as you might see in the video showing part of our 1,500-metre cave tour. These caves are enchanting, mysterious, and spooky. Discovered in 1938, when a goat herder fell through the landscape when looking for his goat, and twenty years later they were excavated. Two million year old fossilized animals were found from hyenas to hippopotamus. Mother Nature has created breathtaking artistry beyond imagination with the dripping and hardening of the stalactites and stalagmites. At times, the ceiling came very close to the underground river and the six of us plus gondola driver had to crouch down very low to get through. It’s not for the claustrophobic. With the wind still trying to confuse us, blowing hard sometimes in the opposite direction from the predicted forecasts, we decided to stay in Gythio another night, tied to the quay. The Danes from our picnic on the beach the other day arrived, and the Brits, also from the picnic had been beside us in the harbour departed. September 6 – It’s a small world. Last night, we shared dinner with a couple from Calgary who stopped by our boat to introduce themselves. They bought a derelict property 100 steps above the harbour, and invited us up to have a look before our restaurant dinner. They have a never-ending sea view. As a retired architecture, (Bob) created a stunning place. We walked to the beach area, selected a table, and enjoyed appetizers, salad, main meal and a kilo of wine and it came to 25 euro. Still studying the weather systems in no rush to go anywhere, since we have the rest of our lives, and anticipating afternoon rain, we walked to the market for supplies. With now a good distance to get back to the boat, the sky opened, and a warm waterfall poured over us soaking us to the bone. If I didn’t know better, I might have believed I was underwater while on land! |
September 10 – The sea turned red! Off and on for days, the rain has arrived with a fervour accompanied by fierce winds. The other morning, we woke to 50 knots climbing to 54 before settling down. I walked down to the sea-front restaurant and bought an orange juice and tapped into their internet. I had a gorgeous view of the light house and the blue water reaching a good distance to the far side of the inlet and down the Peloponnese finger. Casually, I turned to look over my left shoulder and was shocked witnessing a red carpet of mud, trees, and debris moving quickly toward the shore swallowing the blue sea in its wake. I called frantically to the few people in the restaurant, “Hey, look! What’s happening?”
“Oh! The river has run its banks. Don’t worry, this happens sometimes, but I have never seen so much rain in September. Ever.”
The river continued to run like the bulls of Pamploma. Sadly, we read the next day that three elderly people had died in the flash flood. The boats in the harbour were surrounded by the mud, bamboo, tree stubs and branches. The next morning we had hoped to fill our water tanks with Gythio’s good tasting water, “Angel Pee” as Con calls it, but the town had shut it off due to the water runoff. We untied our lines and Con using the “anchor up” button and Big Sky moved toward the anchor in the centre of the harbour. We hoped it would be safe to start the engine and not suck mud and debris into our engine. She turned over and slowly we motored through the sea dodging debris some of which were large floating trees.
The Butterfly -- We anchored in Porto Kayio and for the next few nights swam in the blue waters enjoying the bay protected from the north westerly winds. That night, we sang “Happy Birthday” on Facetime to Kate turning two, then went to bed for a short sleep, waking early to depart for our next anchorage on the small island of Sapientza south of Methoni. Along the way, curiously, a butterfly kept landing on Con. First it landed on his belly button, and then the top of his head before coming inside to visit me. I caught it in a cup and let it free outside. About 30 minutes later, it was back and kept bumping into Con’s chest. As we sat chatting in the cockpit, a whale leapt out of the water splashing his tail a few times on the water surface. Only a few minutes later, he leapt again twisting in the air! There’s more… once we arrived at our destination ready to drop anchor, an adorable turtle surfaced two meters from me to take a good look at us. We put our goggles on swimming around the boat to see if we could find him again, but no luck.
“Oh! The river has run its banks. Don’t worry, this happens sometimes, but I have never seen so much rain in September. Ever.”
The river continued to run like the bulls of Pamploma. Sadly, we read the next day that three elderly people had died in the flash flood. The boats in the harbour were surrounded by the mud, bamboo, tree stubs and branches. The next morning we had hoped to fill our water tanks with Gythio’s good tasting water, “Angel Pee” as Con calls it, but the town had shut it off due to the water runoff. We untied our lines and Con using the “anchor up” button and Big Sky moved toward the anchor in the centre of the harbour. We hoped it would be safe to start the engine and not suck mud and debris into our engine. She turned over and slowly we motored through the sea dodging debris some of which were large floating trees.
The Butterfly -- We anchored in Porto Kayio and for the next few nights swam in the blue waters enjoying the bay protected from the north westerly winds. That night, we sang “Happy Birthday” on Facetime to Kate turning two, then went to bed for a short sleep, waking early to depart for our next anchorage on the small island of Sapientza south of Methoni. Along the way, curiously, a butterfly kept landing on Con. First it landed on his belly button, and then the top of his head before coming inside to visit me. I caught it in a cup and let it free outside. About 30 minutes later, it was back and kept bumping into Con’s chest. As we sat chatting in the cockpit, a whale leapt out of the water splashing his tail a few times on the water surface. Only a few minutes later, he leapt again twisting in the air! There’s more… once we arrived at our destination ready to drop anchor, an adorable turtle surfaced two meters from me to take a good look at us. We put our goggles on swimming around the boat to see if we could find him again, but no luck.
September 14 – Methoni’s sprawling castle
Slowly entering the cove on the east side of the deserted island of Sapientza dodging the many shoals and turtles, we dropped anchor for a peacefully sleep. By morning, we rounded the north end of the island is calm waters spotting yet another turtle checking us out. With the mainland to our starboard, the spectacular Methoni Venetian castle , or rather a fortress, came into view. It’s one of the largest castles in the Med. Built by the Venetians in the 13th century, it was a coveted location overlooking the Ionian and a main trading route for mariners. By the 16th century the Ottoman occupied it, and remnants of two bathhouses are still intact. The large tower fortification was used by the Turks as a prison. Up the hillside are stone houses, where the residents hid from pirates. Friends Anne and Stephen, S/V Wandering Dragon anchored behind us, which was the bonus of the day. We met them our first year sailing, ten years ago, on the Portuguese Atlantic coast. Anne also helped tie up Big Sky when I fell out the side gate into cold jellyfish and rat infested waters still holding the line!
Slowly entering the cove on the east side of the deserted island of Sapientza dodging the many shoals and turtles, we dropped anchor for a peacefully sleep. By morning, we rounded the north end of the island is calm waters spotting yet another turtle checking us out. With the mainland to our starboard, the spectacular Methoni Venetian castle , or rather a fortress, came into view. It’s one of the largest castles in the Med. Built by the Venetians in the 13th century, it was a coveted location overlooking the Ionian and a main trading route for mariners. By the 16th century the Ottoman occupied it, and remnants of two bathhouses are still intact. The large tower fortification was used by the Turks as a prison. Up the hillside are stone houses, where the residents hid from pirates. Friends Anne and Stephen, S/V Wandering Dragon anchored behind us, which was the bonus of the day. We met them our first year sailing, ten years ago, on the Portuguese Atlantic coast. Anne also helped tie up Big Sky when I fell out the side gate into cold jellyfish and rat infested waters still holding the line!
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September 17 – Greek's Gorgeous "Small Summer"
Sailing in the Peloponnese in the Ionian has been a real treat, reminding us of Greek's enormous position in the Mediterranean from the northern Aegean Sea near Bulgaria south through the Cyclades and Dodecanese to Crete and the Ionian from the tip of the Peloponnese north to the Albania border. So far, we are nearing the Greek Ionian Islands, the place where the large Loggerhead turtles breed. A familiar sound has filled our ears, something we haven't heard for years, song birds! This side of Greece receives more rain and consequently is greener.
Two days ago, we tied to the harbour quay in Kiparissia, and like all Greek towns, smack-dab in the middle of all the action. A couple of locals have stopped by throughout our stay to wish us an enjoyable time in their town. People in Greece are notorious for their friendliness and generosity and this place is no exception. It's a Christian holiday and the priest gets to wear a very odd hat as he parades with mostly elderly women down the main street and into the market where pigs and chickens are roasting on spits, kabobs over open fires, and everything and anything you wish to purchase is neatly displayed on tables all for a euro or two. We decided on pizza, since the pigs and chickens wouldn't be ready for a few hours. I complimented the proprietor on the delicious bread all baked in a wood-fired oven. After paying the bill, he chased us down to give us a bag of freshly-baked bread. The Gypsy situation is something we've escaped for years having sailed in the Aegean, but returning to this side of Greece, we're reminded to watch our wallets. They are experts at distraction and before you know it, you've been robbed. Kids approach with their palms up, women block your passage on sidewalks, and inevitably a woman hovers over your table holding a baby in one arm while extending the other to beg. We don't condone their lifestyle and continually shake our head's "No."
Sailing in the Peloponnese in the Ionian has been a real treat, reminding us of Greek's enormous position in the Mediterranean from the northern Aegean Sea near Bulgaria south through the Cyclades and Dodecanese to Crete and the Ionian from the tip of the Peloponnese north to the Albania border. So far, we are nearing the Greek Ionian Islands, the place where the large Loggerhead turtles breed. A familiar sound has filled our ears, something we haven't heard for years, song birds! This side of Greece receives more rain and consequently is greener.
Two days ago, we tied to the harbour quay in Kiparissia, and like all Greek towns, smack-dab in the middle of all the action. A couple of locals have stopped by throughout our stay to wish us an enjoyable time in their town. People in Greece are notorious for their friendliness and generosity and this place is no exception. It's a Christian holiday and the priest gets to wear a very odd hat as he parades with mostly elderly women down the main street and into the market where pigs and chickens are roasting on spits, kabobs over open fires, and everything and anything you wish to purchase is neatly displayed on tables all for a euro or two. We decided on pizza, since the pigs and chickens wouldn't be ready for a few hours. I complimented the proprietor on the delicious bread all baked in a wood-fired oven. After paying the bill, he chased us down to give us a bag of freshly-baked bread. The Gypsy situation is something we've escaped for years having sailed in the Aegean, but returning to this side of Greece, we're reminded to watch our wallets. They are experts at distraction and before you know it, you've been robbed. Kids approach with their palms up, women block your passage on sidewalks, and inevitably a woman hovers over your table holding a baby in one arm while extending the other to beg. We don't condone their lifestyle and continually shake our head's "No."
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September 18
The HAPPIEST OF BIRTHDAY'S to our daughter Lindsey today! |
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September 19 -- Storm Hits with Vengeance
Anticipating lightning and rain in the early morning, we were prepared when it hit with a vengeance at 5:30 am. The wind that led the approach hit us with a bang, clocking 55 knots on the wind-speed indicator (101 km). Our 35 meters of chain pulled hard against Bruce (our 50 kg anchor) as Big Sky danced from side to side in the dark. Lightning flashed and the wind howled. After 10 years aboard, we recognize the character of storms. The front arrives with a bang with incredible wind speeds, and then settles to a steady but lesser wind speed, but we wait, because the other side of the storm is coming and it did. Fifty minutes later, the noise abated and the sea settled. Earlier, we'd tucked in closer to land for better protection, so a longer leash on the anchor was tricky. And, of course we had an exit route ready in case we have to leave in the dark.
LOGGERHEAD TURTLES
We're anchored off the green island of Zakynthos, in the Bay of Laganas, surrounded by blue waters, the place where the endangered Loggerhead Turtles breed. These guys have the longest migration of any ocean animal, and that's known because a female Loggerhead was the first marine animal to be tracked across the ocean basin. They fixed a satellite tracker on her as she travelled the ocean currents from Mexico across the Pacific, 14,500 km. Loggerheads travel the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans and into the Mediterranean making their way HERE on this island to breed. Just across the bay from us is a beautiful sandy beach, once a popular place for tourists to plant their umbrella's and beach chairs. That changed a few decades ago when the World Wildlife Foundation purchased the land to protect the turtles' breeding area. In fact, with this area being a nursery, the small airport on this island closes in the evening to maintain a quiet atmosphere for the breeding. The Loggerhead Turtles live 47-67 years, maturing sexually at 17-33 years and at maturity, they weigh 180-440 pounds. With a low reproduction rate, despite laying hundreds of eggs every two to three years, only 1 in 1000 eggs will survive. There are many predators from ants and beetles to humans. Since turtles breathe air, they surface every 15-30 minutes so spotting them isn't too hard. Amazingly though, they can hold their breath for up to 4 hours. I'm happy to report that they eat jellyfish among other sea life. Can you imagine a human giving birth in the ocean and having their babies make their way to the sandy shore! I'm amazed at these beautiful creatures. (The photo above was borrowed from images online.)
Anticipating lightning and rain in the early morning, we were prepared when it hit with a vengeance at 5:30 am. The wind that led the approach hit us with a bang, clocking 55 knots on the wind-speed indicator (101 km). Our 35 meters of chain pulled hard against Bruce (our 50 kg anchor) as Big Sky danced from side to side in the dark. Lightning flashed and the wind howled. After 10 years aboard, we recognize the character of storms. The front arrives with a bang with incredible wind speeds, and then settles to a steady but lesser wind speed, but we wait, because the other side of the storm is coming and it did. Fifty minutes later, the noise abated and the sea settled. Earlier, we'd tucked in closer to land for better protection, so a longer leash on the anchor was tricky. And, of course we had an exit route ready in case we have to leave in the dark.
LOGGERHEAD TURTLES
We're anchored off the green island of Zakynthos, in the Bay of Laganas, surrounded by blue waters, the place where the endangered Loggerhead Turtles breed. These guys have the longest migration of any ocean animal, and that's known because a female Loggerhead was the first marine animal to be tracked across the ocean basin. They fixed a satellite tracker on her as she travelled the ocean currents from Mexico across the Pacific, 14,500 km. Loggerheads travel the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans and into the Mediterranean making their way HERE on this island to breed. Just across the bay from us is a beautiful sandy beach, once a popular place for tourists to plant their umbrella's and beach chairs. That changed a few decades ago when the World Wildlife Foundation purchased the land to protect the turtles' breeding area. In fact, with this area being a nursery, the small airport on this island closes in the evening to maintain a quiet atmosphere for the breeding. The Loggerhead Turtles live 47-67 years, maturing sexually at 17-33 years and at maturity, they weigh 180-440 pounds. With a low reproduction rate, despite laying hundreds of eggs every two to three years, only 1 in 1000 eggs will survive. There are many predators from ants and beetles to humans. Since turtles breathe air, they surface every 15-30 minutes so spotting them isn't too hard. Amazingly though, they can hold their breath for up to 4 hours. I'm happy to report that they eat jellyfish among other sea life. Can you imagine a human giving birth in the ocean and having their babies make their way to the sandy shore! I'm amazed at these beautiful creatures. (The photo above was borrowed from images online.)
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September 22 – Fall Sailing through the Ionian Islands
Leaving the town of Zakinthos on the island of the same name, we shared a coffee, and then said, “Good-bye” to four Canadian’s aboard “Surgiamo” whom we met, entering the marina the day before. What are the odds, two Canadian-flagged boats would enter the marina at the same time. The sea was lumpy on our journey to Chephalonia or Kefalonia depending on who’s spelling it. It’s the largest island in the Ionian chain. An earthquake hit the Ionian Islands in 1953 (the year before I was born) and destroyed most of the cities throughout this island chain. The islands are not overbuilt. There are Greek-styled white-washed houses, discrete boutique-like hotels here and there along the water’s edge. Where possible, the people rebuilt the villages/towns to appear as they did before the quake. Water temperatures are still warm, 27 degrees but the evenings are beginning to cool a bit, dipping to 21/22 degrees. That’s sweater weather when you’re used to daytime mid 30s. The charter boats are thinning out, but there are still enough tourists to keep the towns prospering. In another month, most of what we’re enjoying will be closed for the winter. We tied to the quay in the lovely town of Argostolion, a well-protected location. We sheltered here a few years ago when heavy wind, rain, and lightning surprised us in the middle of the night turning Big Sky too close to rocks making for a tricky get away. We found refuge here and for that, we will always have a soft spot for this place. The main street is filled with fruit and vegetable vendors, butchers, bakers, and just about anything you’re hoping for, including ice cream.
Leaving the town of Zakinthos on the island of the same name, we shared a coffee, and then said, “Good-bye” to four Canadian’s aboard “Surgiamo” whom we met, entering the marina the day before. What are the odds, two Canadian-flagged boats would enter the marina at the same time. The sea was lumpy on our journey to Chephalonia or Kefalonia depending on who’s spelling it. It’s the largest island in the Ionian chain. An earthquake hit the Ionian Islands in 1953 (the year before I was born) and destroyed most of the cities throughout this island chain. The islands are not overbuilt. There are Greek-styled white-washed houses, discrete boutique-like hotels here and there along the water’s edge. Where possible, the people rebuilt the villages/towns to appear as they did before the quake. Water temperatures are still warm, 27 degrees but the evenings are beginning to cool a bit, dipping to 21/22 degrees. That’s sweater weather when you’re used to daytime mid 30s. The charter boats are thinning out, but there are still enough tourists to keep the towns prospering. In another month, most of what we’re enjoying will be closed for the winter. We tied to the quay in the lovely town of Argostolion, a well-protected location. We sheltered here a few years ago when heavy wind, rain, and lightning surprised us in the middle of the night turning Big Sky too close to rocks making for a tricky get away. We found refuge here and for that, we will always have a soft spot for this place. The main street is filled with fruit and vegetable vendors, butchers, bakers, and just about anything you’re hoping for, including ice cream.
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September 23 – Sailing Kefalonia’s beautiful rugged west coast
Our trusty fold-up bikes performed perfectly today after their summer storage in the back locker. With a bit of DW40 and TLC, we were on the road to “The Da Little” as Lindsey called it, innocently imitation Con’s Dutch accent when he’d reference the Lidl. Our freezer is now packed with all our favourites from smoked salmon, trout, and mackerel, small sausages, and of course the Aztec chocolate bars among other delicious treats. By noon, we untied from the quay and made our way south out of the long inlet and then around the corner aiming north along Kefalonia’s rugged west coast. The sea was lumpy, but with just enough wind to set sail keeping the boat steadier. For the past few days, we’ve watched the Loggerhead Turtles swarm around the fishing boats when they return to the harbour. They shouldn’t eat the fish the men throw overboard as it changes their behaviour, we’re told by the Turtle experts. They are meant to eat the crustaceans and jellyfish but mostly grasses. Here’s another interesting tidbit about the turtles, they return to the very spot 20 years after they were born to lay their eggs. If there are people or obstructions on the beach, they will circle and circle and then just drop their eggs into the sea (they die). And, when the babies that have hatched are making their way to the sea, they dry up from the sun, or get eaten by the birds and other predators. If you thought you’d be helpful and pick them up and put them in the sea, you’d destroy their ability to lay eggs 20 years later. They embed a GPS of sorts on their bellies as they scrap/rub on the sand on their way to the sea. This is their marker to remember where to return. The world is amazing!
September 25 – Enjoying the warm waters
The seasonal north winds haven't been blowing allowing us to enjoy this anchorage on the west side of Kefalonia, which is open to a north wind. The sea is still 26.6 degrees and each morning, Con and I swim around the boat scrubbing the oil that found its way along our waterline a few anchorages ago. The oil is a mystery and may have come from the small boat yard 100 meters from where we anchored.
September 26 - 30 – Sailing Kefalonia, Ithica, Petalas, to the mainland
We lifted anchor from our two-nights in Ormos Atheras, seeking shelter along the west side of Ithica. Our first stop was too deep; our second was too rolly; but the third was just right. Tucking into the Ormos Afales bay on the north end of Ithica, anticipating good shelter from the east winds that should arrive Tuesday. We spent the day in the water.
Sailing away from Ithica the next day, the sea was white with sails! At 30, we lost count when a strong gust surprised us sending Big Sky heeling wildly. Anything not secured inside went flying across the boat.
At a new anchorage, (a neighbouring bay from the busy town of Vathi), we tossed Little Sky (dingy) into the sea, rowed to shore, and then hiked three kilometers to the town. There, we counted 98 sailboats most at the enormous quay and others at anchor. The charter season is still underway, but likely for just another couple of weeks. From our bay, we watched boats coming and going from Vathi and as Con said, “It’s like a tide. At 10 am, 100 boats leave, and by 5 pm, 100 arrive.” With bags of groceries, we took a cab back to our bay. The driver shared that he works 18 hours a day during the tourist season, and when it’s over, there is no more work. “It’s just enough,” he said. We hear that so often from Greeks. He also told us that it had been nine years since he took a day off to swim in the sea.
Moving further along the islands, we anchored between Petalas Island and the mainland for another peaceful sleep, but the water was a bit green, not too inviting to swim. By morning, we sailed passed dozens of fish farms, detouring closer to a bay where an oil platform was docked. When we were about 100 meters away, whistles were blowing and Port Authorities shooed us away. Water is still green, most likely because we’re so close to the fish farms. Just before dropping anchor, I spotted my first jellyfish of the season and it was a doozy! Its body was the size of a soccer ball, white, with two-foot white and blue/purple tentacles trailing. No swimming for me today.
Our trusty fold-up bikes performed perfectly today after their summer storage in the back locker. With a bit of DW40 and TLC, we were on the road to “The Da Little” as Lindsey called it, innocently imitation Con’s Dutch accent when he’d reference the Lidl. Our freezer is now packed with all our favourites from smoked salmon, trout, and mackerel, small sausages, and of course the Aztec chocolate bars among other delicious treats. By noon, we untied from the quay and made our way south out of the long inlet and then around the corner aiming north along Kefalonia’s rugged west coast. The sea was lumpy, but with just enough wind to set sail keeping the boat steadier. For the past few days, we’ve watched the Loggerhead Turtles swarm around the fishing boats when they return to the harbour. They shouldn’t eat the fish the men throw overboard as it changes their behaviour, we’re told by the Turtle experts. They are meant to eat the crustaceans and jellyfish but mostly grasses. Here’s another interesting tidbit about the turtles, they return to the very spot 20 years after they were born to lay their eggs. If there are people or obstructions on the beach, they will circle and circle and then just drop their eggs into the sea (they die). And, when the babies that have hatched are making their way to the sea, they dry up from the sun, or get eaten by the birds and other predators. If you thought you’d be helpful and pick them up and put them in the sea, you’d destroy their ability to lay eggs 20 years later. They embed a GPS of sorts on their bellies as they scrap/rub on the sand on their way to the sea. This is their marker to remember where to return. The world is amazing!
September 25 – Enjoying the warm waters
The seasonal north winds haven't been blowing allowing us to enjoy this anchorage on the west side of Kefalonia, which is open to a north wind. The sea is still 26.6 degrees and each morning, Con and I swim around the boat scrubbing the oil that found its way along our waterline a few anchorages ago. The oil is a mystery and may have come from the small boat yard 100 meters from where we anchored.
September 26 - 30 – Sailing Kefalonia, Ithica, Petalas, to the mainland
We lifted anchor from our two-nights in Ormos Atheras, seeking shelter along the west side of Ithica. Our first stop was too deep; our second was too rolly; but the third was just right. Tucking into the Ormos Afales bay on the north end of Ithica, anticipating good shelter from the east winds that should arrive Tuesday. We spent the day in the water.
Sailing away from Ithica the next day, the sea was white with sails! At 30, we lost count when a strong gust surprised us sending Big Sky heeling wildly. Anything not secured inside went flying across the boat.
At a new anchorage, (a neighbouring bay from the busy town of Vathi), we tossed Little Sky (dingy) into the sea, rowed to shore, and then hiked three kilometers to the town. There, we counted 98 sailboats most at the enormous quay and others at anchor. The charter season is still underway, but likely for just another couple of weeks. From our bay, we watched boats coming and going from Vathi and as Con said, “It’s like a tide. At 10 am, 100 boats leave, and by 5 pm, 100 arrive.” With bags of groceries, we took a cab back to our bay. The driver shared that he works 18 hours a day during the tourist season, and when it’s over, there is no more work. “It’s just enough,” he said. We hear that so often from Greeks. He also told us that it had been nine years since he took a day off to swim in the sea.
Moving further along the islands, we anchored between Petalas Island and the mainland for another peaceful sleep, but the water was a bit green, not too inviting to swim. By morning, we sailed passed dozens of fish farms, detouring closer to a bay where an oil platform was docked. When we were about 100 meters away, whistles were blowing and Port Authorities shooed us away. Water is still green, most likely because we’re so close to the fish farms. Just before dropping anchor, I spotted my first jellyfish of the season and it was a doozy! Its body was the size of a soccer ball, white, with two-foot white and blue/purple tentacles trailing. No swimming for me today.
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One of our anchorages on Kefalonia. We took the photo from a vantage point up the hill where we shared coffee with locals. They own 100 goats, as well, the man, his son and fiance work in the local fish farm. (Big Sky in the centre.
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October 1 -- Weather is Fabulous
It's like we're living on a magic carpet, when we fall asleep at anchor, the boat doesn't move, and there's not a sound to be heard. The sea is dead calm, sadly, for a sailor it's not ideal, but secretly, it's exactly the way I like it. We left our bay this morning motoring to Astakos on the mainland, tying to the quay. No charge, and that includes electricity and water. We would be happy to pay. The laundry is washing aboard, the cupboards are now full of fresh foods, and our batteries are recharging. We stepped off, crossed the sleepy town's street and selected a table directly behind Big Sky, filling ourselves up, with good food, and 3 euro house wine.
It's like we're living on a magic carpet, when we fall asleep at anchor, the boat doesn't move, and there's not a sound to be heard. The sea is dead calm, sadly, for a sailor it's not ideal, but secretly, it's exactly the way I like it. We left our bay this morning motoring to Astakos on the mainland, tying to the quay. No charge, and that includes electricity and water. We would be happy to pay. The laundry is washing aboard, the cupboards are now full of fresh foods, and our batteries are recharging. We stepped off, crossed the sleepy town's street and selected a table directly behind Big Sky, filling ourselves up, with good food, and 3 euro house wine.
October 3 – At anchor on the island of Kalamos
Sailing through the Ionian islands, the 1953 massive earthquakes imprint is everywhere. There was once a small town where we’re currently anchored, now abandoned. All that’s left is a well-maintained church. Rather than rebuilding the island, the majority of the survivors (100,000) emigrated to Canada, USA, and the UK. This area, Kefalonia specifically, is the most earthquake prone country in Europe. Since sailing around the island, there have been a few shakers. It lies east of a major tectonic fault line where the European and Aegean plates meet. In 1953, Kefalonia rose 60 cm (24 inches), with watermarks on the rocks bearing testimony. The sea level goes from 300 meters to a shocking 3 kilometers deep. The devastating earthquake had more than 113 recorded quakes between Kefalonia and Zakynthos building up to the big one, August 12, 1953. With the big blow expected tomorrow, we’re well dug in at anchor, water temperatures 24.7, and beautiful colourful fish to spy on through our goggles.
Sailing through the Ionian islands, the 1953 massive earthquakes imprint is everywhere. There was once a small town where we’re currently anchored, now abandoned. All that’s left is a well-maintained church. Rather than rebuilding the island, the majority of the survivors (100,000) emigrated to Canada, USA, and the UK. This area, Kefalonia specifically, is the most earthquake prone country in Europe. Since sailing around the island, there have been a few shakers. It lies east of a major tectonic fault line where the European and Aegean plates meet. In 1953, Kefalonia rose 60 cm (24 inches), with watermarks on the rocks bearing testimony. The sea level goes from 300 meters to a shocking 3 kilometers deep. The devastating earthquake had more than 113 recorded quakes between Kefalonia and Zakynthos building up to the big one, August 12, 1953. With the big blow expected tomorrow, we’re well dug in at anchor, water temperatures 24.7, and beautiful colourful fish to spy on through our goggles.
October 5 -- Anticipating heavier north winds in the night, we tucked into bed feeling confident that our 45 meters of chain would hold us out away from the land, but south winds arrived. Big Sky was now dangerously close to the sunken bridge left of this picture. We could have stepped from the boat to shore. I took a 1am to 4 am shift watching the depth reader, waking Con twice to help bring in our already short anchor leash. Big Sky hull floated in 6 meters, then she was in 2.4 (our keel is 2.1) and still dropping. By 5 am, we were in 2.2 meters! The wind was anything but cooperative so we finally pulled anchor when the sun rose, bringing in the final 20 meters of chain. That ended our two-days off the pretty island of Kalamos. Earlier we took Little Sky (dinghy) to shore to explore what was once a small community, now overgrown since it was abandoned when the 1953 devastating earthquake cut their only water source.
We moved to Vilkho , on the island of Lefkas and dropped anchor. The season is still glorious! Yesterday we swam in the 24.6 degree waters, warming ourselves in 26-degree sunshine.
We moved to Vilkho , on the island of Lefkas and dropped anchor. The season is still glorious! Yesterday we swam in the 24.6 degree waters, warming ourselves in 26-degree sunshine.
October 14 – Last week, we entered the Lefkada Marina on a month’s contract to give us time to prepare Big Sky before we leave her for five months. Tasks completed: oil and fuel filters changed; replaced a few switches on the cockpit pedestal; replaced the aft cabin’s bathroom tap.
Winter tasks to be completed: replace the mast boot; sew a new cockpit cushion, and fix our companion-way screen; switch the sea cocks with composite material ones; clean anchor locker and mark chains, replace a few rivets on our window screens; and finally replace the bilge pump strainer. Once these tasks are completed, we’ll Big Sky lifted in Preveza and disembark with our bags.
The next five months we’ll be in The Netherlands, Canada, Curacao, Panama City, Panama, back to Canada, to France for a week with family on a vacation location TBA, and then back aboard in Greece.
Winter tasks to be completed: replace the mast boot; sew a new cockpit cushion, and fix our companion-way screen; switch the sea cocks with composite material ones; clean anchor locker and mark chains, replace a few rivets on our window screens; and finally replace the bilge pump strainer. Once these tasks are completed, we’ll Big Sky lifted in Preveza and disembark with our bags.
The next five months we’ll be in The Netherlands, Canada, Curacao, Panama City, Panama, back to Canada, to France for a week with family on a vacation location TBA, and then back aboard in Greece.
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Yesterday was a great day shared with friends Judy and Bruno at anchor not far from us. They rowed ashore, rented a car and came to the marina to visit and have lunch together. It was delightful catching up in person.
The weather on the island of Lefkas is still warm, interspersed with rain and when it comes, it doesn’t fool around! The sea has been cooling each day, now just 22 degrees and enormous jellyfish have decided to show themselves. That makes our last swim day of the season October 5th.
Biking is always a challenge in Greece. When there’s a bike path, usually cars park in them and when you share the road, drivers usually take the right of way, crossing your lane to cut you off turning. Good brakes on the bikes are paramount.Y
The weather on the island of Lefkas is still warm, interspersed with rain and when it comes, it doesn’t fool around! The sea has been cooling each day, now just 22 degrees and enormous jellyfish have decided to show themselves. That makes our last swim day of the season October 5th.
Biking is always a challenge in Greece. When there’s a bike path, usually cars park in them and when you share the road, drivers usually take the right of way, crossing your lane to cut you off turning. Good brakes on the bikes are paramount.Y
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Last week at the quay in Poros, 45 boats sustained damage when high winds accompanied the storm, sinking two boats. The owners of one boat returned from dinner and found their boat under water! Yesterday in Nafplio, 19 boats sustained damage when tied at the town quay. Both eye witness accounts came from two separate sailing friends.
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October 17 – Rain & Hail
Western Greece definitely gets two awards: the greenest; and the wettest. We battened down the hatches anticipating a heavy rainfall yesterday afternoon and it didn't disappoint. First the hail arrived making a noisy racket topsides, followed by approximately 5 - 8 mm of rain all within 30 minutes. Zipped snug inside our cozy cockpit winter house, I took a peek through the companionway doors inside and to my horror realizing the mast boot we had just replaced earlier in the day was leaking. (To say "leaking" is an understatement, rain poured down the mast like a fountain soaking the carpet. I caught some of the water in our laundry basket.) Besides the waterfall entering through the leaking mast boot, I had forgotten to close the ensuite bathroom window, so that room had a good rain wash. Today, the sun is back smiling at us and we'll be back topsides fixing the boot. Next Thursday we can test it, if the rain returns. Con missed the last step coming down the companionway stairs landing poorly straining his ankle. My first aide skills have been put to the test. |
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October 30 – Big Sky will be lifted in Preveza, about 12 NM from Lefkas soon, in the meantime, we cycle each day checking out the area, usually planning our outtings in between rain showers. Sometimes we miss and return soaked. While in Lefkas, we visited an upholstery shop, selecting material for new curtains in our master bedroom and bathroom. With the left over material, the woman made two square show pillows for us.
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October 23 – Good Friends Arrive
Christine & Johan, Swiss friends we’dmet our first year sailing while wintering in the Lagos, Portugal came to Lefkas to visit. We had an awesome time sharing the entire day together. It has been nine years since we saw them last, but it felt like just a moment that we’d been apart. With Christine’s few week’s holiday from her teaching job, they drove from Switzerland to Greece (including a 24-hour ferry ride) to get to their boat in Messolonghi, two hours from where we are. Following their 9 am meeting at a canvas shop here in Lefkas, we piled into their car and shared a spectacular day. The sun was out and we packed our swim suits and took advantage of the last of the good weather, lunching at the beach and swimming in one of Greece’s most beautiful beaches. |
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Weather is still shorts and t-shirts by day, and a sweater at night. We are situated smack dab in the middle of the charter base of boats on Pontoon B. When we arrived nearly a month ago, Friday’s were crazy busy with activity as boats returned and new boaters prepared to depart. Watching the captains was often an interesting activity since their skills were usually pretty green or rusty. The charter season is now winding up. The charter boat staff had a fun weekend, starting with a big “thank-you” BBQ and then a weekend on a charter boat, about six people per boat. For many, this was their only time to enjoy the beautiful sailing season they send others off to enjoy. They all returned this afternoon looking tired but happy.
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November 4 – A few nights ago, Bruno and Judy hosted us to a farewell dinner aboard Pacific Pearl. That’s always a treat; time with good friends, and delicious food prepared by Chef Bruno.
The 7th was our scheduled lift in Preveza, but with semi-ferocious winds and rain anticipated, it was not ideal. Con contacted the Yard for an earlier lift, to which they replied, “Come right away.” We walked across the marina to Judy and Bruno to say “good-bye” not sure when our paths would cross again. Untying, we motored the nine nautical miles to Preveza. With a 1.5 knot current running in the canal, Captain Con easily manoeuvred Big Sky to the diesel pier and took on 854 litres. It’s best to keep the tanks full when we’re absent for so long. The Preveza Yard crew lifted Big Sky with ease and slipped her in against an open field with a million-euro view of the Ambracian Gulf. We had taken down our three sails while in the Lefkada Marina before arriving for the lift. Our last task was tarping the boat. Con had to balance at the top of the ladder two stories above the ground to lace the last bit of tarp, while I held the ladder steady from below. We just completed it before the big rainfall and wind arrived.
An undersea tunnel, the first for Greece, connects Preveza to Akrio where we have a hotel reservation. Living on the hard is hard since we cannot use running water, or the bathrooms. We made it across just as the rain was falling.
We have six days scheduled with our Dutch family in the Netherlands, and then we fly to Canada where grand baby #5 is expected by the end of the month. My delightful task will be to watch two-year-old Kate when Lindsey and Les are at the hospital. In a few weeks, we’ll be wrapped in family bliss.
The 7th was our scheduled lift in Preveza, but with semi-ferocious winds and rain anticipated, it was not ideal. Con contacted the Yard for an earlier lift, to which they replied, “Come right away.” We walked across the marina to Judy and Bruno to say “good-bye” not sure when our paths would cross again. Untying, we motored the nine nautical miles to Preveza. With a 1.5 knot current running in the canal, Captain Con easily manoeuvred Big Sky to the diesel pier and took on 854 litres. It’s best to keep the tanks full when we’re absent for so long. The Preveza Yard crew lifted Big Sky with ease and slipped her in against an open field with a million-euro view of the Ambracian Gulf. We had taken down our three sails while in the Lefkada Marina before arriving for the lift. Our last task was tarping the boat. Con had to balance at the top of the ladder two stories above the ground to lace the last bit of tarp, while I held the ladder steady from below. We just completed it before the big rainfall and wind arrived.
An undersea tunnel, the first for Greece, connects Preveza to Akrio where we have a hotel reservation. Living on the hard is hard since we cannot use running water, or the bathrooms. We made it across just as the rain was falling.
We have six days scheduled with our Dutch family in the Netherlands, and then we fly to Canada where grand baby #5 is expected by the end of the month. My delightful task will be to watch two-year-old Kate when Lindsey and Les are at the hospital. In a few weeks, we’ll be wrapped in family bliss.
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Above: the street view from our hotel balcony; Big Sky tarped and stored for six months in Preveza.
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November 8 -- Now settled in a cozy boutique hotel across the water from the Yard, we're enjoying our last days in Greece. We’ll return in six months. Our hotel has arranged a shared mini-van taxi to the Athens airport Thursday, a five-hour trip to the bus station. From there, we will take the airport bus, another hour's trip. That's the same travel time as flying from Europe to Eastern Canada!
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This morning, we took a stroll with our camera to share a few pictures of the Greek town of Preveza. It twists through alleys and cobblestone paths with a mix of semi-restored houses and the 18th-century neoclassical architecture. Every street connects to the main street with a long promenade against the Ionian Sea.
Con says this fruit is a pomelo. It's hard to see in the photo, but it's the size of our heads! Is it a pomelo? The weather is still a comfy 24 degrees, but the air is filling with heavy humidity and the wind is building. Soon, the rain storm will be upon us. In the photo, you can see about a third of the Cleopatra Yard across the Ionian from Preveza. There are likely three or four thousand boats on the hard, and more to be lifted each day until the end of November. |
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November 15 -- In The Netherlands
Albertine, Con, and I drove to Groningen to visit family in north Netherlands. At times we drove on roads that were 10 and more meters below sea level protected by dikes all around keeping the mighty North Sea back. We visited the oldest (100 years old pictured left) and largest still functioning steam-driven pumping station, which provides extra pumping capacity when there are extended heavy rains and adverse wind conditions. Flood control is an essential part of everyday life in The Netherlands, with two-thirds of the country prone to flooding. Their defense against the sea is strong, but the biggest mistake the Dutch could make would be complacency. The dikes require on-going maintenance as erosion is ongoing. Above: Con and me; anti-clockwise: Con's brother Jan, wife Annemarie, Con's sister Albertine, great nephew Robin, nephews Phillip, and Frans and wife Marianne all of whom live in north Holland, Groningen. Weather in The Netherlands is cold and wet (no snow) we get to experience that in Canada. Last night's biggest moon was hidden in rain clouds unfortunately. For more stories and pictures of our visit with family and friends in Canada, please visit our Canada 2016 pages. |