Above: Making Parmesan cheese in Parma, Italy
2012 Diaries
We began the sailing season in Kos, Greece which is located across the Aegean from Turkey's magical coast. We set sail south through the Corinth Canal (pictured above) leaving the Aegean and arriving in the Ionian Sea. Continuing south along Greece's coast we crossed to southern Sicily ending the year in Ragusa di Marina. By land, we presented at the Toronto Canada boat show in January to promote my book, “Sailing Through Life” and returned to Europe through Genoa and toured the Prosciutto, Parma, and Balsamic vinegar region experiencing a few earthquakes while there. We drove through the Anatolian Region of Turkey to the Syrian border. August, we explored Prague, Vienna, Budapest, and Bratslava. While wintering in Marina di Ragusa, we toured the spectacular Italian hillside towns that simply took our breath away.
We began the sailing season in Kos, Greece which is located across the Aegean from Turkey's magical coast. We set sail south through the Corinth Canal (pictured above) leaving the Aegean and arriving in the Ionian Sea. Continuing south along Greece's coast we crossed to southern Sicily ending the year in Ragusa di Marina. By land, we presented at the Toronto Canada boat show in January to promote my book, “Sailing Through Life” and returned to Europe through Genoa and toured the Prosciutto, Parma, and Balsamic vinegar region experiencing a few earthquakes while there. We drove through the Anatolian Region of Turkey to the Syrian border. August, we explored Prague, Vienna, Budapest, and Bratslava. While wintering in Marina di Ragusa, we toured the spectacular Italian hillside towns that simply took our breath away.
Bringing in the New Year in Kos Greece
January 2, 2012 -- The Greeks as all European countries has its own traditions and for New Year's Day we were invited by the marina management to participate in their New Year's tradition. A big cake was sliced with a hidden coin inside to symbolize the generosity of St. Basil, the forefather of the Greek Orthodox religion. The president gave a speech in Greek and in broken English to wish us all well, cut the cake, giving the first piece to God leaving it on the table. The coin was discovered by someone who saw that the slice for the absent receptionist had the coin. A gift was put aside for her and now she will have good luck all year.
January 6 -- Epiphany Day
The priest throws a cross into the sea to represent fertility and abundance in the sea. Men only (women are not allowed) dive in competing for the cross and the winner becomes the baptismal representative of Christ and enjoys kissing the town women and receiving free drinks and food all day in the restaurants.
January 2, 2012 -- The Greeks as all European countries has its own traditions and for New Year's Day we were invited by the marina management to participate in their New Year's tradition. A big cake was sliced with a hidden coin inside to symbolize the generosity of St. Basil, the forefather of the Greek Orthodox religion. The president gave a speech in Greek and in broken English to wish us all well, cut the cake, giving the first piece to God leaving it on the table. The coin was discovered by someone who saw that the slice for the absent receptionist had the coin. A gift was put aside for her and now she will have good luck all year.
January 6 -- Epiphany Day
The priest throws a cross into the sea to represent fertility and abundance in the sea. Men only (women are not allowed) dive in competing for the cross and the winner becomes the baptismal representative of Christ and enjoys kissing the town women and receiving free drinks and food all day in the restaurants.
TO CANADA
Returning to Canada we enjoyed our family in Alberta and then flew across the country to Toronto as we were invited to present at the boat show. The invitation came as part of my book promotion from the Nautical Mind book store. We loved sharing our sailing stories and I was thrilled with the number of books sold. My message: "Don't Just Dream -- Live it!" An attendee emailed me: "Just had to say hello and let you know how much I am enjoying your book and website. I picked up your book at Nautical Mind at the Toronto Boat show yesterday and have been engrossed ever since. You are helping me get through the last five years of my career when I can attempt to do what you two are living."
Con and I were interviewed for the Ontario Sailor's magazine. As an added bonus, we visited Doug & Merrilee (my brother and wife) and reconnected with cousins I've not seen in many years.
Returning to Canada we enjoyed our family in Alberta and then flew across the country to Toronto as we were invited to present at the boat show. The invitation came as part of my book promotion from the Nautical Mind book store. We loved sharing our sailing stories and I was thrilled with the number of books sold. My message: "Don't Just Dream -- Live it!" An attendee emailed me: "Just had to say hello and let you know how much I am enjoying your book and website. I picked up your book at Nautical Mind at the Toronto Boat show yesterday and have been engrossed ever since. You are helping me get through the last five years of my career when I can attempt to do what you two are living."
Con and I were interviewed for the Ontario Sailor's magazine. As an added bonus, we visited Doug & Merrilee (my brother and wife) and reconnected with cousins I've not seen in many years.
To ITALY (Genoa, Portofino, Pisa)
January 24 -- In cold Genoa, a beautiful northern seaport city bursting with churches, palaces, Italian marble architecture, promenades, walls, and fortresses, we walked nearly every square inch of the place. We passed Christopher Columbus' house and through the streets where prostitutes have solicited for centuries and still today, passing pastry shops where dogs are invited in to drool.
Damp and drizzling weather wrapped around the Italian Riviera and with this day being the best weather day, we bussed from Rapallo to Portofino, a quaint fishing village that transforms into a mega tourist area in summer season. The town is the inspiration of Disney's Universal Studio's "Portofino Bay" in Florida.
January 28 -- Today we remember my dad who passed away two years ago today. He's likely entertaining everyone in heaven with his great sense of humour and love of life.
With train tickets in hand, we were off to sunny Pisa, 1.5 hours from wet Rapallo. Historically, the Leaning Tower began to lean when it reached its third story during construction in 1360 because the foundation was built on soft ground that had difficulty supporting the weight.
Below: first row Genoa; second row Portofino; last two rows Pisa
January 24 -- In cold Genoa, a beautiful northern seaport city bursting with churches, palaces, Italian marble architecture, promenades, walls, and fortresses, we walked nearly every square inch of the place. We passed Christopher Columbus' house and through the streets where prostitutes have solicited for centuries and still today, passing pastry shops where dogs are invited in to drool.
Damp and drizzling weather wrapped around the Italian Riviera and with this day being the best weather day, we bussed from Rapallo to Portofino, a quaint fishing village that transforms into a mega tourist area in summer season. The town is the inspiration of Disney's Universal Studio's "Portofino Bay" in Florida.
January 28 -- Today we remember my dad who passed away two years ago today. He's likely entertaining everyone in heaven with his great sense of humour and love of life.
With train tickets in hand, we were off to sunny Pisa, 1.5 hours from wet Rapallo. Historically, the Leaning Tower began to lean when it reached its third story during construction in 1360 because the foundation was built on soft ground that had difficulty supporting the weight.
Below: first row Genoa; second row Portofino; last two rows Pisa
Genoa, Rapallo, Parma, Milan
January 29 – Our well-worn suitcases were splitting at the seams and likely wouldn’t make the trip back to Kos, so we headed from Rapallo back to Genoa by train to buy new ones.
We made our suitcase selection, and the hotel reps assured us it was no problem to dispose of our old ones, to just leave them in the room when we go. A month later, the hotel representative sent us an email asking where they could deliver our suitcases, since they’d been held all this time in their office.
Con arranged a private tour of the Parma region. Our ride would collect us in the morning.
February 1 – A friendly woman, about 30 collected us in front of our hotel and we drove to Parma, a northern city known for the Parmesan cheese and prosciutto ham. We were given a tour through a family-run Parmesan cheese factory which was part of a coop of farmers. We’re told the cheese making industry hasn't changed in hundreds of years, just the rules and regulations to protect the integrity and excellent taste. In this factory, the mom, dad, son, and daughter-in-law start their day early, ending it late. Milk arrives twice a day, from cows specifically bred for Parmesan cheese and fed a specific diet. The milk is poured into five vats and heated up to a specific temperature. They add congealing substance from the cow’s stomach. The liquid mass is inspected by the mom and dad, and when ready the son cuts it into curds and transfers it to a mold. The valve is opened at the bottom of the vat to drain off the healthy liquid which is fed to the pigs. The mold is weighted to drain off excess liquid. By day’s end, they produce ten wheels, each valued at around 600 euro wholesale.
From there, we drove to a Prosciutto Factory.
Young pigs are selected at six months to become Prosciutto ham, and are fed a glorious menu for the next three months, until their hind legs are cut off. Prosciutto means "to dry." The pigs are selected because they're lean and contain low cholesterol. The legs hang for two years before being sold to retailers for 600 euro each. It’s tough knowing this as it takes the joy out of the deliciousness.
Our last tour was of a Balsamic Vinegar winery, also a family run coop. Some of the oak vats the vinegar is aging in date back nearly 100 years. The final product comes packaged in small glass dispensers selling for 40, 60, or 80 euros! It is a balsamic vinegar like you've never tasted before! Use it on salads, or a drop on cooked fish or pasta or on top of ice cream. We bought an expensive one, and now count each drop in the form of euros per drop.
We woke bright and early for our walk to the train station for an 8 am departure to Milan, and had to drag our brand new suitcases through fresh fallen slushy snow.
January 29 – Our well-worn suitcases were splitting at the seams and likely wouldn’t make the trip back to Kos, so we headed from Rapallo back to Genoa by train to buy new ones.
We made our suitcase selection, and the hotel reps assured us it was no problem to dispose of our old ones, to just leave them in the room when we go. A month later, the hotel representative sent us an email asking where they could deliver our suitcases, since they’d been held all this time in their office.
Con arranged a private tour of the Parma region. Our ride would collect us in the morning.
February 1 – A friendly woman, about 30 collected us in front of our hotel and we drove to Parma, a northern city known for the Parmesan cheese and prosciutto ham. We were given a tour through a family-run Parmesan cheese factory which was part of a coop of farmers. We’re told the cheese making industry hasn't changed in hundreds of years, just the rules and regulations to protect the integrity and excellent taste. In this factory, the mom, dad, son, and daughter-in-law start their day early, ending it late. Milk arrives twice a day, from cows specifically bred for Parmesan cheese and fed a specific diet. The milk is poured into five vats and heated up to a specific temperature. They add congealing substance from the cow’s stomach. The liquid mass is inspected by the mom and dad, and when ready the son cuts it into curds and transfers it to a mold. The valve is opened at the bottom of the vat to drain off the healthy liquid which is fed to the pigs. The mold is weighted to drain off excess liquid. By day’s end, they produce ten wheels, each valued at around 600 euro wholesale.
From there, we drove to a Prosciutto Factory.
Young pigs are selected at six months to become Prosciutto ham, and are fed a glorious menu for the next three months, until their hind legs are cut off. Prosciutto means "to dry." The pigs are selected because they're lean and contain low cholesterol. The legs hang for two years before being sold to retailers for 600 euro each. It’s tough knowing this as it takes the joy out of the deliciousness.
Our last tour was of a Balsamic Vinegar winery, also a family run coop. Some of the oak vats the vinegar is aging in date back nearly 100 years. The final product comes packaged in small glass dispensers selling for 40, 60, or 80 euros! It is a balsamic vinegar like you've never tasted before! Use it on salads, or a drop on cooked fish or pasta or on top of ice cream. We bought an expensive one, and now count each drop in the form of euros per drop.
We woke bright and early for our walk to the train station for an 8 am departure to Milan, and had to drag our brand new suitcases through fresh fallen slushy snow.
February 2 – An Awesome Night at La Scala Theatre
In Milan, we purchased tickets earlier in the day for a ballet that night in La Scala Theatre Opera House. Digging through our suitcases, we assembled our very best outfits and then had to walk through the slushy roads dodging spray from passing vehicles. We arrived in fairly good shape with the exception of the horrid white salt marks on our shoes and my boots. Fortunately for us, our seats were in the front row of the second level main floor, and unfortunately for us, it was where everyone entered the theatre and had to view our shoes! People dressed in formal dresses and some men in tuxedos. It was a grand sight all around. The Theatre was built in 1778 and the ambience is old-world elegance. Our performance was the ballet “Excelsior”. The sets were extraordinary and the dancers mesmerizing. Con managed a photo before being told “no photos”. It occurred to us that many of the old men may be attending with their mistresses, since a number of the women looked half their age and dressed exceptionally sexy. Perhaps that explains the “no photo” issue.
The next morning, in layers of clothing to ward off the -6 slushy snow-falling weather, we entered Milan’s enormous Piazza del Duomo which fills the landscape. The Gothic church, fourth largest cathedral in the world, dominates the piazza marking the centre of Milan. It took six centuries to complete, beginning in 1386.
We slugged through the slush to Santa Maria delle Grazie church to see Leonardo Da Vinci's 1495 painting of "The Last Supper". It beautifully captures the expressions of the twelve Apostles and Jesus during the last days of his life. In WW11, the church was hit with bombs destroying most of the church except the wall that holds “The Last Supper” painting.
Continuing, we entered the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, spinning on the Torino Bull’s balls. It’s a tradition to put your right heel on the bull’s testicle and spin three times counter clockwise for good luck. The mall is a beautiful covered shopping area, the oldest mall in Italy, named after the first king of the Kingdom of Italy, designed in 1861. The mall houses designer shops and even an upscale McDonalds.
Passing the finance centre, we stopped in front of the controversial marble statue of the hand with the middle finger stuck up directing in front of the Milan Stock Exchange. It was unveiled in 2010 causing quite a stir with politicians and others. This artist is known for provocative works, having made a sculpture of Pope John Paul being hit by a meteorite, and three baby puppets hanging on a branch.
In Milan, we purchased tickets earlier in the day for a ballet that night in La Scala Theatre Opera House. Digging through our suitcases, we assembled our very best outfits and then had to walk through the slushy roads dodging spray from passing vehicles. We arrived in fairly good shape with the exception of the horrid white salt marks on our shoes and my boots. Fortunately for us, our seats were in the front row of the second level main floor, and unfortunately for us, it was where everyone entered the theatre and had to view our shoes! People dressed in formal dresses and some men in tuxedos. It was a grand sight all around. The Theatre was built in 1778 and the ambience is old-world elegance. Our performance was the ballet “Excelsior”. The sets were extraordinary and the dancers mesmerizing. Con managed a photo before being told “no photos”. It occurred to us that many of the old men may be attending with their mistresses, since a number of the women looked half their age and dressed exceptionally sexy. Perhaps that explains the “no photo” issue.
The next morning, in layers of clothing to ward off the -6 slushy snow-falling weather, we entered Milan’s enormous Piazza del Duomo which fills the landscape. The Gothic church, fourth largest cathedral in the world, dominates the piazza marking the centre of Milan. It took six centuries to complete, beginning in 1386.
We slugged through the slush to Santa Maria delle Grazie church to see Leonardo Da Vinci's 1495 painting of "The Last Supper". It beautifully captures the expressions of the twelve Apostles and Jesus during the last days of his life. In WW11, the church was hit with bombs destroying most of the church except the wall that holds “The Last Supper” painting.
Continuing, we entered the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, spinning on the Torino Bull’s balls. It’s a tradition to put your right heel on the bull’s testicle and spin three times counter clockwise for good luck. The mall is a beautiful covered shopping area, the oldest mall in Italy, named after the first king of the Kingdom of Italy, designed in 1861. The mall houses designer shops and even an upscale McDonalds.
Passing the finance centre, we stopped in front of the controversial marble statue of the hand with the middle finger stuck up directing in front of the Milan Stock Exchange. It was unveiled in 2010 causing quite a stir with politicians and others. This artist is known for provocative works, having made a sculpture of Pope John Paul being hit by a meteorite, and three baby puppets hanging on a branch.
To Kos, Greece back on the boat
February 3 – With a long layover in Athens, we boarded our Canadian-built Dash 8 plane to the island of Kos and to Big Sky. With a car rental (better priced than a taxi) we stopped for groceries, filling the boat with smoked salmon, cookies, cheese, wine, and bags and bags of fresh fruits and vegetables.
February 6 -- CON'S BIRTHDAY! Celebrations had to be postponed since the winter winds wouldn’t let up in the marina. At 7 pm, we clocked 80 NM on our wind speed indicator (148 KPH). The next day, we got together with nearly a dozen cruisers and walked to a cozy restaurant and celebrated Con’s birthday along with other events.
February 11 -- It's a crucial day/weekend for the Greek as they work through the terms of the Greek debt bailout taking it to a cabinet vote Sunday. Six ministers quit the cabinet yesterday in protest. More than 5,000 police are on guard in Athens, anticipating protests as major cutbacks have hit the elderly and the young adults. The marina staff received a 40 percent wage cut. The Greek recession is cutting deeper, with tougher days ahead. The Communist party jumped the fence and hung two signs on the Acropolis, "Down with the dictatorship of the monopolies of the European Union."
Meanwhile, the live-aboard crowd took advantage of the t-shirt weather and enjoyed a barbecue in the marina yard.
February 12 -- George Tromaras arrived in town, claiming to be the “strongest man in Greece”. News cameras and a small crowd gathered outside the marina to watch him demonstrate his strength. He began smashing an iron sledge hammer against his forehead three times and then took a 2 x 4 and cracked it against his forehead, falling to the ground, nearly passing out. He got up, took a two or three inches thick telephone book and tore it in half, and then the halves in half again. It's a tough way to make a living!
February 15 -- Happy Birthday to my mom -- 85 today. I dare you to keep up with her schedule!
The last of the oranges and the appearance of the spring blossoms is the signal for Con and me to get ready to set sail. Just a few more weeks, and we'll head east toward Cyprus.
This past weekend, the Greek Parliament voted "yes" for the new austerity program, lining them up for the next financial aid instalment of 110 billion Euros from the International Monetary Fund and the European Union. A quick calculation: the total aid package translates to about 12 million euros per Greek citizen! This parliament vote was highly controversial, resulting in six cabinet members resigning. More than 100,000 Greeks gathered in Athens to protest. It was peaceful until 5:30 pm when all hell broke loose. Starbucks and a bank were burned, and three people died.
February 22 – Our friend Caryn said there was a 15 euro spa treatment in town involving fish. I asked her to join me and we walked into town. Slipping her feet into the tank, she said, "It's wonderful and relaxing”. The proprietor washed my feet and then I slipped them into a warm aquarium where dozens of fish nibbled (took bites) off my feet and legs. It was anything but relaxing, but I was caught in one of those moments when you start laughing and can’t stop for the life of you. See attached
Later, back in the marina, the life a-boards gathered for a serious game of Bocce Ball, men against the women. Women won. The game ended when a few Boccee Balls rolled into the water off the pier. A month later, Sven dived down for them, along with Caryn's mom's silver tea set that went over following a Christmas party when Sven navigating the gang plank fell overboard. Caryn was so mad, she wouldn't rescue him. The neighbour to our port side heard the gurgling and fished him out.
February 3 – With a long layover in Athens, we boarded our Canadian-built Dash 8 plane to the island of Kos and to Big Sky. With a car rental (better priced than a taxi) we stopped for groceries, filling the boat with smoked salmon, cookies, cheese, wine, and bags and bags of fresh fruits and vegetables.
February 6 -- CON'S BIRTHDAY! Celebrations had to be postponed since the winter winds wouldn’t let up in the marina. At 7 pm, we clocked 80 NM on our wind speed indicator (148 KPH). The next day, we got together with nearly a dozen cruisers and walked to a cozy restaurant and celebrated Con’s birthday along with other events.
February 11 -- It's a crucial day/weekend for the Greek as they work through the terms of the Greek debt bailout taking it to a cabinet vote Sunday. Six ministers quit the cabinet yesterday in protest. More than 5,000 police are on guard in Athens, anticipating protests as major cutbacks have hit the elderly and the young adults. The marina staff received a 40 percent wage cut. The Greek recession is cutting deeper, with tougher days ahead. The Communist party jumped the fence and hung two signs on the Acropolis, "Down with the dictatorship of the monopolies of the European Union."
Meanwhile, the live-aboard crowd took advantage of the t-shirt weather and enjoyed a barbecue in the marina yard.
February 12 -- George Tromaras arrived in town, claiming to be the “strongest man in Greece”. News cameras and a small crowd gathered outside the marina to watch him demonstrate his strength. He began smashing an iron sledge hammer against his forehead three times and then took a 2 x 4 and cracked it against his forehead, falling to the ground, nearly passing out. He got up, took a two or three inches thick telephone book and tore it in half, and then the halves in half again. It's a tough way to make a living!
February 15 -- Happy Birthday to my mom -- 85 today. I dare you to keep up with her schedule!
The last of the oranges and the appearance of the spring blossoms is the signal for Con and me to get ready to set sail. Just a few more weeks, and we'll head east toward Cyprus.
This past weekend, the Greek Parliament voted "yes" for the new austerity program, lining them up for the next financial aid instalment of 110 billion Euros from the International Monetary Fund and the European Union. A quick calculation: the total aid package translates to about 12 million euros per Greek citizen! This parliament vote was highly controversial, resulting in six cabinet members resigning. More than 100,000 Greeks gathered in Athens to protest. It was peaceful until 5:30 pm when all hell broke loose. Starbucks and a bank were burned, and three people died.
February 22 – Our friend Caryn said there was a 15 euro spa treatment in town involving fish. I asked her to join me and we walked into town. Slipping her feet into the tank, she said, "It's wonderful and relaxing”. The proprietor washed my feet and then I slipped them into a warm aquarium where dozens of fish nibbled (took bites) off my feet and legs. It was anything but relaxing, but I was caught in one of those moments when you start laughing and can’t stop for the life of you. See attached
Later, back in the marina, the life a-boards gathered for a serious game of Bocce Ball, men against the women. Women won. The game ended when a few Boccee Balls rolled into the water off the pier. A month later, Sven dived down for them, along with Caryn's mom's silver tea set that went over following a Christmas party when Sven navigating the gang plank fell overboard. Caryn was so mad, she wouldn't rescue him. The neighbour to our port side heard the gurgling and fished him out.
March 2 -- Finally the rain has stopped in Kos, but not the northeast wind blowing cold and steady from Siberia. We’ve tucked into Big Sky hibernation like keeping warm with our heaters. We took down our winter house, getting ready to depart for Cyprus.
March 5 – Con visited the Port Authorities with a pocket full of cash, ready to check out and pay our hefty tax bill but they informed him that the tax office was closed until Monday. Con told them he had planned to take advantage of the winds to sail south and that he'd make payment in Rhodes upon arrival. An argument ensued, with the customs agent accusing Con of attempting to sail to Turkey instead of paying his tax.
“In my country,” Con said, "you're innocent until proven guilty. If I were to sail to Turkey then you can send for me. How much is the fine anyway, because if it's less than the diesel I'll have to burn because there are no sailing winds on Monday, I may like to pay that instead."
They then promptly confiscated our boat and insurance papers saying, “In my country, you can go to jail for talking to authorities like that.”
Con conceded. We had no intentions of skipping out on the Greek tax. Monday morning, he went to the tax office, paid the bill, and then to the Port Authorities to collect our boat papers.
We said "good-bye" to our live-aboard friends, and motored to Nisyros. The island is actually a volcano that makes hissing noises and gives visitors and locals a nightly light show. Below: Nisyros
March 5 – Con visited the Port Authorities with a pocket full of cash, ready to check out and pay our hefty tax bill but they informed him that the tax office was closed until Monday. Con told them he had planned to take advantage of the winds to sail south and that he'd make payment in Rhodes upon arrival. An argument ensued, with the customs agent accusing Con of attempting to sail to Turkey instead of paying his tax.
“In my country,” Con said, "you're innocent until proven guilty. If I were to sail to Turkey then you can send for me. How much is the fine anyway, because if it's less than the diesel I'll have to burn because there are no sailing winds on Monday, I may like to pay that instead."
They then promptly confiscated our boat and insurance papers saying, “In my country, you can go to jail for talking to authorities like that.”
Con conceded. We had no intentions of skipping out on the Greek tax. Monday morning, he went to the tax office, paid the bill, and then to the Port Authorities to collect our boat papers.
We said "good-bye" to our live-aboard friends, and motored to Nisyros. The island is actually a volcano that makes hissing noises and gives visitors and locals a nightly light show. Below: Nisyros
Rhodes to Kastellorizon via Turkish Tow
March 11 – We’re the only cruisers at the Rhodes quay, an odd thing, since it’s usually an obscenely busy harbour, but it is the beginning of the sailing season. The daily cost is 8 euro, including electricity! Rhodes has a remarkable medieval wall that surrounds the Old City, and leads to the Palace of the Grand Masters. Rough weather with three-meter waves are breaking on the outer harbour wall creating white spray higher than street posts, but we're cozy inside, enjoying home-made soup. We rented a car and toured the entire island which is the largest of the Dodecanese island chain.
Spring has sprung and it's gorgeous in the fields and canyons. We drove into Butterfly Valley, home of millions of Jersey Tiger moths, attracted to the Liquidambar orientalise trees in the secluded stream canyon. The butterflies won't be flying until July and August. Millions of them swarm this canyon valley, making it the second most visited site in Greece, next to the Acropolis. We stopped at a road-side restaurant and ordered calamari, fish and a salad. The owner said, "You're my first visitors of the year, can I offer you a glass of wine or Ouzo on the house?" We chorused, "Thanks." Con asked, "Will you be very busy during your busy months?" He said, "No, not too many people, but just enough." That sums up the Greek people. Always generous; never giving with a ulterior motive or motivated by money.
March 14 -- Weather reports are fickle. Last night, we studied Windfinder and Windguru seeking the best weather and waves for our three-day journey to Cyprus via Kastellorizon. First report indicates a small weather window to depart, but large waves. The second report said “no wind” but we were experiencing 26 knots in the Rhodes harbour which means a lot more once we go out to sea. We postponed until Thursday.
Coast Guard Rescue
March 16 – Our departure for Cyprus started out okay, but deteriorated after the 10th hour when we had to call the coast guard! The winds were much higher than predicted making extraction from the Rhodes concrete wall tough. For the first six hours, confused waves bashed us at the stern and starboard. Then the sea changed to steep controlled three-meter high waves, rolling into us at the stern lifting us and depositing us back down at the bow. We'd been sailing on a broad reach when the wind swung around coming at us from behind and increased to 40 knots. Too much canvas was up. Con attempted to take in the Genoa without calling me to help. I was inside calming my sea sick stomach when the jib sheet got away from him. The wind took control of the boat, swinging us around into a heel, laying our rail deep into the water. That got my attention and I shot up to the cockpit. Con put the engine on to turn us into the wind to take the pressure off the sails to finish furling and to take in the main when pandemonium took over. The jib sheet found its way overboard and into the prop, stalling the engine instantly. With just a bit of jib up and partial main, I took the wheel, turning Big Sky back on course while Con investigated our situation. Our course had crossed into Turkish waters and the Turkish coast guard (who is always watching) and zoomed up beside us, “Captain, is everything okay?”
“Yes” Con smiled adding, “we’re continuing to the Greek island.” Kastellorizo is 2 km from the Turkish coast. Con had hoped with the bit of sail up, we could make it in daylight (without the engine), but the wind died and we were dead in the water. A moment later, the wind started up again, directly on our bow making our destination impossible. We were getting too close to the archipelago of rocks and islands making it very dangerous, however, we were able to keep sailing for about 20 minutes both away from the archipelago and away from our destination. Con informed me that he intended to stay out all night and if the waters were calmer by morning, he’d dive below and see if he could free the line.
I was not convinced that was a safe decision as the wind were too fickle and I asked that we call the Turkish Coast Guard again, this time for a tow.
Con called them on the VHF and incredibly, they arrived within five minutes. The sea wave action calmed somewhat, however, attaching the tow line was darned difficult with both boats rocking madly. The wave swells were at times two metres. Two hours later, we were tied up safely in the Kas Marina in Turkey. I went below to count money, not sure what their charge would be.
The Coast Guard insisted that we go to the hospital for a medical checkup; standard procedure when rescued. Learning that we were illegal in Turkish waters, they took lots of pictures, scribbled down notes, had deep discussions in Turkish, and then realizing that we could not leave the marina as “illegals” bid us a good sleep, telling us, "No charge for the tow." In the morning, a diver freed the sheet from our prop and we were politely asked to depart Turkey and motored the two kilometres (45 minutes) to the Greek island.
Kastellorizon is a beautiful island with an enormous harbor. There, we reassessed our sailing season plans.
By morning, the winds were still too fickle so we decided to sail back to Turkey, and this time enter legally, which would mean buying visas, a cruising log, pay an agent for the necessary stamps, and enjoy that country again.
March 17 -- For the moment, we were in the gorgeous Greek hidden jewel, Kastellorizon, population 240. It's tucked so far away from the other Greek islands in the Aegean that it’s easily overlooked. It took about an hour to climb to the top of the mountain, well worth the effort for the views. During WWI, the French launched bombs at the Germans behind the hill and approached the island from Turkey.
March 11 – We’re the only cruisers at the Rhodes quay, an odd thing, since it’s usually an obscenely busy harbour, but it is the beginning of the sailing season. The daily cost is 8 euro, including electricity! Rhodes has a remarkable medieval wall that surrounds the Old City, and leads to the Palace of the Grand Masters. Rough weather with three-meter waves are breaking on the outer harbour wall creating white spray higher than street posts, but we're cozy inside, enjoying home-made soup. We rented a car and toured the entire island which is the largest of the Dodecanese island chain.
Spring has sprung and it's gorgeous in the fields and canyons. We drove into Butterfly Valley, home of millions of Jersey Tiger moths, attracted to the Liquidambar orientalise trees in the secluded stream canyon. The butterflies won't be flying until July and August. Millions of them swarm this canyon valley, making it the second most visited site in Greece, next to the Acropolis. We stopped at a road-side restaurant and ordered calamari, fish and a salad. The owner said, "You're my first visitors of the year, can I offer you a glass of wine or Ouzo on the house?" We chorused, "Thanks." Con asked, "Will you be very busy during your busy months?" He said, "No, not too many people, but just enough." That sums up the Greek people. Always generous; never giving with a ulterior motive or motivated by money.
March 14 -- Weather reports are fickle. Last night, we studied Windfinder and Windguru seeking the best weather and waves for our three-day journey to Cyprus via Kastellorizon. First report indicates a small weather window to depart, but large waves. The second report said “no wind” but we were experiencing 26 knots in the Rhodes harbour which means a lot more once we go out to sea. We postponed until Thursday.
Coast Guard Rescue
March 16 – Our departure for Cyprus started out okay, but deteriorated after the 10th hour when we had to call the coast guard! The winds were much higher than predicted making extraction from the Rhodes concrete wall tough. For the first six hours, confused waves bashed us at the stern and starboard. Then the sea changed to steep controlled three-meter high waves, rolling into us at the stern lifting us and depositing us back down at the bow. We'd been sailing on a broad reach when the wind swung around coming at us from behind and increased to 40 knots. Too much canvas was up. Con attempted to take in the Genoa without calling me to help. I was inside calming my sea sick stomach when the jib sheet got away from him. The wind took control of the boat, swinging us around into a heel, laying our rail deep into the water. That got my attention and I shot up to the cockpit. Con put the engine on to turn us into the wind to take the pressure off the sails to finish furling and to take in the main when pandemonium took over. The jib sheet found its way overboard and into the prop, stalling the engine instantly. With just a bit of jib up and partial main, I took the wheel, turning Big Sky back on course while Con investigated our situation. Our course had crossed into Turkish waters and the Turkish coast guard (who is always watching) and zoomed up beside us, “Captain, is everything okay?”
“Yes” Con smiled adding, “we’re continuing to the Greek island.” Kastellorizo is 2 km from the Turkish coast. Con had hoped with the bit of sail up, we could make it in daylight (without the engine), but the wind died and we were dead in the water. A moment later, the wind started up again, directly on our bow making our destination impossible. We were getting too close to the archipelago of rocks and islands making it very dangerous, however, we were able to keep sailing for about 20 minutes both away from the archipelago and away from our destination. Con informed me that he intended to stay out all night and if the waters were calmer by morning, he’d dive below and see if he could free the line.
I was not convinced that was a safe decision as the wind were too fickle and I asked that we call the Turkish Coast Guard again, this time for a tow.
Con called them on the VHF and incredibly, they arrived within five minutes. The sea wave action calmed somewhat, however, attaching the tow line was darned difficult with both boats rocking madly. The wave swells were at times two metres. Two hours later, we were tied up safely in the Kas Marina in Turkey. I went below to count money, not sure what their charge would be.
The Coast Guard insisted that we go to the hospital for a medical checkup; standard procedure when rescued. Learning that we were illegal in Turkish waters, they took lots of pictures, scribbled down notes, had deep discussions in Turkish, and then realizing that we could not leave the marina as “illegals” bid us a good sleep, telling us, "No charge for the tow." In the morning, a diver freed the sheet from our prop and we were politely asked to depart Turkey and motored the two kilometres (45 minutes) to the Greek island.
Kastellorizon is a beautiful island with an enormous harbor. There, we reassessed our sailing season plans.
By morning, the winds were still too fickle so we decided to sail back to Turkey, and this time enter legally, which would mean buying visas, a cruising log, pay an agent for the necessary stamps, and enjoy that country again.
March 17 -- For the moment, we were in the gorgeous Greek hidden jewel, Kastellorizon, population 240. It's tucked so far away from the other Greek islands in the Aegean that it’s easily overlooked. It took about an hour to climb to the top of the mountain, well worth the effort for the views. During WWI, the French launched bombs at the Germans behind the hill and approached the island from Turkey.
Now in Finike, Turkey, legally, we planned an Off the Beaten Track trip to see the intriguing Anatolian region of Turkey. Visit OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
April 10 – Back aboard following our couple of weeks touring Turkey by land, we’re in a waiting mode. The sail maker is repairing our genoa and making new cushion for our cockpit. LED lights will arrive from Anayalya to replace all our strip lighting aboard. And, friends Karen and Nadina from Calgary are arriving in six days to sail with us along the Turkish coast for a week.
April 18 -- Friends Arrive! Karen and Nadina joined us in Antalya to sail along the ancient Lycian coast (south eastern coast of Turkey). The first day, we explored Simena, an ancient Lycian village, accessible only by sea, and tied onto a small pier for the night -- or so we thought. The pier seemed light weight for Big Sky, and the owners assured us it was strong. By day, we explored the 4th century BC castle and hillside, dotted with sarcophagi's (tombs). The Lycian history goes back to the six thousand years. We climbed up the ancient steps to the top of the castle for great views. Early afternoon, Nadina, Karen and I paddled to the partially submerged sarcophagi and played in the warm water pools. Karen and Nadina spoiled us with a delicious meal in the restaurant associated with the pier. There, we learned that strong winds would be arriving in the night. At 2 am, the owners were banging on our boat calling to us to “leave now!”. It was pitch black and we had no other place to go! Before we could even start our GPS, the husband untied our stern and the woman was unleashing the line from our bow. Con hadn't even started the boat! There was no taming Big Sky in such winds and the boat crushed against the pier. Con now at the helm, turned on the boat, used bow thruster and began to reverse us into the booby-trapped zone of shallows and reefs. Our bow swung over the pier and thankfully, the woman ducked moments before being hit by our 50 KG anchor.
“Go! Go!” they both shouted. Hiking earlier, Con had studied the reefs from the mountain side which was foreshadowing of what was now upon us. I raced below, grabbed my iPad to get a GPS fix and spotted Karen and Nadina sitting calmly and quietly in the pilot house. I smiled at them, flipped on our navigation lights, opened my ipad navigation app letting it find a fix while I grabbed life jackets for all, returned topside handing Con the chart and moved carefully to the bow. Not able to see my hands in front of my face. My heart was beating quickly, but I remained calm. Con moved our 29 tons ever so carefully through the reef filled waters relying on my iPad chart and my eyes at the bow. The wind continually attempted to take control of Big Sky. The area is known for its beautiful archipelago and also for the dangers for boaters. Con remained steadfast at the helm and I called back through the howling wind the location of other boats and obstacles using the bow as twelve o'clock. "Boat 10 o'clock..." Con was making his way to an open bay where we hoped to drop anchor. The waters opened wider, allowing more winds to bash us. I unclipped the anchor and waiting for Con's signal.
"Now!"
I released 50 meters of chain. We tested the hold. It was good. Finally, taking a full breath to fill my lungs, I looked around. The only light was coming from a few stars visible through a cloudy evening, no moon. Con and I met at the bow, gave each other a hug and went below to see how our crew was doing.
“All’s well,” Con announced, “have a good night ladies.” Karen and Nadina didn't say a word, looking white with fright, they nodded and went back to bed.
In the morning, the wind was still howling when we pulled up anchor after breakfast and motored to the outer pier in Ucagiz - 40 lire per night. We knew our position at anchor was safer, but would make it nearly impossible for our guests to tour Myra. Karen, Nadina and I took a taxi in the morning to the ancient ruin and Con remained with Big Sky as she bucked like a wild bronc in the winds.
Myra, scholars believe it was part of the powerful Lycian civilization between the years 168 BC and 41 AD. The amphitheatre was destroyed in 141 and reconstructed in recent years. The Greeks tried unsuccessfully to colonize them, the Persians with their strong armies tried to overtake and enslave them. Rather than being slaves, they set their capital city on fire and went out to fight them to the last person. Suicide rather than surrender. This is known because of the ash that covers the destroyed city and the written accounts in Persian history records. Those surviving Lycians became part of the Persian nation and grew in economic prosperity. The Greeks and Roman's ruled them with heavy taxes, but they continued to survive, only falling into demise when two huge earthquakes took down their cities, some which we were sailed over and could see underwater. The most interesting person in Lycian history is St. Nicolas, the Bishop of the Lycians (later known as Santa Claus) in 323 AD.
The four of us set sail when the winds calmed, heading for Kas. On the way, Con and I wanted to sneak into Greek waters to show Karen and Nadina the pretty town of Kastellorizon, but you cannot legally do that. The Greek port authorities gestured our Turkish courtesy flag and whistled for us to pull over. We rounded the harbour and bee-lined it out of the Greek waters, holding our breath until we were back in Turkish seas.
Karen had one final task before flying home; a dip in the cold Aegean Sea, diving from the bow spit and swimming leisurely to the stern.
Below: The rugged archipelago Con and I navigated through at 2:30 am; Con and I checking the reefs from the hillside, not knowing that our view that afternoon was so important to our safe extraction from the pier.
April 10 – Back aboard following our couple of weeks touring Turkey by land, we’re in a waiting mode. The sail maker is repairing our genoa and making new cushion for our cockpit. LED lights will arrive from Anayalya to replace all our strip lighting aboard. And, friends Karen and Nadina from Calgary are arriving in six days to sail with us along the Turkish coast for a week.
April 18 -- Friends Arrive! Karen and Nadina joined us in Antalya to sail along the ancient Lycian coast (south eastern coast of Turkey). The first day, we explored Simena, an ancient Lycian village, accessible only by sea, and tied onto a small pier for the night -- or so we thought. The pier seemed light weight for Big Sky, and the owners assured us it was strong. By day, we explored the 4th century BC castle and hillside, dotted with sarcophagi's (tombs). The Lycian history goes back to the six thousand years. We climbed up the ancient steps to the top of the castle for great views. Early afternoon, Nadina, Karen and I paddled to the partially submerged sarcophagi and played in the warm water pools. Karen and Nadina spoiled us with a delicious meal in the restaurant associated with the pier. There, we learned that strong winds would be arriving in the night. At 2 am, the owners were banging on our boat calling to us to “leave now!”. It was pitch black and we had no other place to go! Before we could even start our GPS, the husband untied our stern and the woman was unleashing the line from our bow. Con hadn't even started the boat! There was no taming Big Sky in such winds and the boat crushed against the pier. Con now at the helm, turned on the boat, used bow thruster and began to reverse us into the booby-trapped zone of shallows and reefs. Our bow swung over the pier and thankfully, the woman ducked moments before being hit by our 50 KG anchor.
“Go! Go!” they both shouted. Hiking earlier, Con had studied the reefs from the mountain side which was foreshadowing of what was now upon us. I raced below, grabbed my iPad to get a GPS fix and spotted Karen and Nadina sitting calmly and quietly in the pilot house. I smiled at them, flipped on our navigation lights, opened my ipad navigation app letting it find a fix while I grabbed life jackets for all, returned topside handing Con the chart and moved carefully to the bow. Not able to see my hands in front of my face. My heart was beating quickly, but I remained calm. Con moved our 29 tons ever so carefully through the reef filled waters relying on my iPad chart and my eyes at the bow. The wind continually attempted to take control of Big Sky. The area is known for its beautiful archipelago and also for the dangers for boaters. Con remained steadfast at the helm and I called back through the howling wind the location of other boats and obstacles using the bow as twelve o'clock. "Boat 10 o'clock..." Con was making his way to an open bay where we hoped to drop anchor. The waters opened wider, allowing more winds to bash us. I unclipped the anchor and waiting for Con's signal.
"Now!"
I released 50 meters of chain. We tested the hold. It was good. Finally, taking a full breath to fill my lungs, I looked around. The only light was coming from a few stars visible through a cloudy evening, no moon. Con and I met at the bow, gave each other a hug and went below to see how our crew was doing.
“All’s well,” Con announced, “have a good night ladies.” Karen and Nadina didn't say a word, looking white with fright, they nodded and went back to bed.
In the morning, the wind was still howling when we pulled up anchor after breakfast and motored to the outer pier in Ucagiz - 40 lire per night. We knew our position at anchor was safer, but would make it nearly impossible for our guests to tour Myra. Karen, Nadina and I took a taxi in the morning to the ancient ruin and Con remained with Big Sky as she bucked like a wild bronc in the winds.
Myra, scholars believe it was part of the powerful Lycian civilization between the years 168 BC and 41 AD. The amphitheatre was destroyed in 141 and reconstructed in recent years. The Greeks tried unsuccessfully to colonize them, the Persians with their strong armies tried to overtake and enslave them. Rather than being slaves, they set their capital city on fire and went out to fight them to the last person. Suicide rather than surrender. This is known because of the ash that covers the destroyed city and the written accounts in Persian history records. Those surviving Lycians became part of the Persian nation and grew in economic prosperity. The Greeks and Roman's ruled them with heavy taxes, but they continued to survive, only falling into demise when two huge earthquakes took down their cities, some which we were sailed over and could see underwater. The most interesting person in Lycian history is St. Nicolas, the Bishop of the Lycians (later known as Santa Claus) in 323 AD.
The four of us set sail when the winds calmed, heading for Kas. On the way, Con and I wanted to sneak into Greek waters to show Karen and Nadina the pretty town of Kastellorizon, but you cannot legally do that. The Greek port authorities gestured our Turkish courtesy flag and whistled for us to pull over. We rounded the harbour and bee-lined it out of the Greek waters, holding our breath until we were back in Turkish seas.
Karen had one final task before flying home; a dip in the cold Aegean Sea, diving from the bow spit and swimming leisurely to the stern.
Below: The rugged archipelago Con and I navigated through at 2:30 am; Con and I checking the reefs from the hillside, not knowing that our view that afternoon was so important to our safe extraction from the pier.
April 20 -- Karen and Nadina departed for Canada after our fun week together. Now it’s time to wrap the boat in netting for the arrival of Courtney and three-year-old Hailey’s arrival on the 24th.
April 27 -- Courtney and Hailey Arrive! My heart skipped a beat at the airport spotting them walking toward us. It’s now day three, and there’s been no sign of her luggage. Turkish Airlines has been a nightmare to work with, sending us in circles with no firm response about where or if it will arrive. In the meantime, we shopped for bathing suits, shorts, sandals, sunglasses, and hats for the two of them and a life jacket for Hailey. Con, always thinking ahead booked us into the pretty older area of Antalya for three days so the two of them could beat jet lag poolside. Unfortunately for everyone but Hailey, the pool wasn’t heated and the water feels as if the ice had just melted off it. Hailey immediately jumped in calling, “Opa in the wwwwwater!” Her lips were turning blue, so we had to take her out of the water for a bit.
In Turkey, "kids" are the most important and cherished being on earth. Everywhere we go, Hailey is adored. She calls out "Merhaba" to everyone (hello) and they can't resist her.
"Can I have a kiss?" they ask. She passed one store and the proprietor gave her a maraca. A man held her by her free hand, Con had the other and they walked her all over the square, swing-jumping her over everything, including a sleeping dog. She giggled calling out, "Teshekkur," (thanks). She joined the older kids in the town square playing football calling, “Soccer, I play too.”
It took nearly four hours to drive from Antalya to Big Sky in Finike. Courtney slept, and Hailey sang herself to sleep. Hailey was so excited to climb aboard, having anticipated it for three days. She wanted to drive the boat right away and was disappointed when she climbed behind the enormous helm and the boat didn't more. "We need the key," she said to me.
April 28 – LOVING our guests! Courtney bought a really cute bathing suit, me too, an identical one, navy blue and white stripped, calling it our "crew" outfit. Now DAY FIVE without their luggage, but a ray of sunshine arrived this morning when Turkish Airlines informed Courtney (when she called) that the bag is in Antalya. That's 220 kilometers from where we are, and we've been told "Tuesday," for delivery. Luckily the weather is outstanding with bright sunshine every day, temperatures in the upper 20s. Grounded in the Kas Marina, we wait. A typical day: wake and dance to the Iman's song; walk to town for donairs, and a round of delicious Turkish ice-cream; play in the big park chasing kids and dogs; chats with ducks; and a swim in the sea or the beautiful marina pool.
Today, Hailey was given a free toy, and as always, a free ice cream cone. The young ice cream sales guy called to the crowd, "Ice Cream!" Hailey shouted back from across the square in a big clear voice, "One minute," holding up her index finger, "wait for Opa, he has money and we're buying ice cream!"
April 27 -- Courtney and Hailey Arrive! My heart skipped a beat at the airport spotting them walking toward us. It’s now day three, and there’s been no sign of her luggage. Turkish Airlines has been a nightmare to work with, sending us in circles with no firm response about where or if it will arrive. In the meantime, we shopped for bathing suits, shorts, sandals, sunglasses, and hats for the two of them and a life jacket for Hailey. Con, always thinking ahead booked us into the pretty older area of Antalya for three days so the two of them could beat jet lag poolside. Unfortunately for everyone but Hailey, the pool wasn’t heated and the water feels as if the ice had just melted off it. Hailey immediately jumped in calling, “Opa in the wwwwwater!” Her lips were turning blue, so we had to take her out of the water for a bit.
In Turkey, "kids" are the most important and cherished being on earth. Everywhere we go, Hailey is adored. She calls out "Merhaba" to everyone (hello) and they can't resist her.
"Can I have a kiss?" they ask. She passed one store and the proprietor gave her a maraca. A man held her by her free hand, Con had the other and they walked her all over the square, swing-jumping her over everything, including a sleeping dog. She giggled calling out, "Teshekkur," (thanks). She joined the older kids in the town square playing football calling, “Soccer, I play too.”
It took nearly four hours to drive from Antalya to Big Sky in Finike. Courtney slept, and Hailey sang herself to sleep. Hailey was so excited to climb aboard, having anticipated it for three days. She wanted to drive the boat right away and was disappointed when she climbed behind the enormous helm and the boat didn't more. "We need the key," she said to me.
April 28 – LOVING our guests! Courtney bought a really cute bathing suit, me too, an identical one, navy blue and white stripped, calling it our "crew" outfit. Now DAY FIVE without their luggage, but a ray of sunshine arrived this morning when Turkish Airlines informed Courtney (when she called) that the bag is in Antalya. That's 220 kilometers from where we are, and we've been told "Tuesday," for delivery. Luckily the weather is outstanding with bright sunshine every day, temperatures in the upper 20s. Grounded in the Kas Marina, we wait. A typical day: wake and dance to the Iman's song; walk to town for donairs, and a round of delicious Turkish ice-cream; play in the big park chasing kids and dogs; chats with ducks; and a swim in the sea or the beautiful marina pool.
Today, Hailey was given a free toy, and as always, a free ice cream cone. The young ice cream sales guy called to the crowd, "Ice Cream!" Hailey shouted back from across the square in a big clear voice, "One minute," holding up her index finger, "wait for Opa, he has money and we're buying ice cream!"
May 1 -- Kas Marina awaiting Luggage There aren't many places on earth better than where we are to wait for the luggage to arrive. Sadly Courtney is suffering with a massive debilitating migraine keeping her bed ridden in the V-berth. On day two without food and very little liquid, her temperature rose. I move between the marina pool where Con and Hailey are having a ball to the boat to cool Courtney with cold clothes to her head and neck. Con picked up migraine medicine in the local pharmacy for $15 CND equivalent. The same medication is more than $100 in Canada where a prescription is needed. By early afternoon, Courtney’s pain was causing tears (and she has an enormous pain thresh hold), we called a doctor. Within 10 minutes a local doctor arrived, assessed her condition, took blood, gave her powerful anti-nausea pills, instructed her to take the migraine pill Con had picked up, and to eat soup and salt in her water. Within 30 minutes, she was able to rise from her bed. The doctor went back to her office (with a lab in her back room) analysed her blood and ruled out parasites and meningitis. Her temperature returned to normal later in the day and her headache subsided.
Provide Hailey with water and she’s content. I spelled “P-o-o-l-?” to Con and Courtney, and Hailey shouted, “Ya!” By night, Hailey’s a wonderful story teller entertaining us for hours.
May 2 -- Kalkan The Kas Marina staff informed us the luggage had arrived! Having waited seven days in the marina, we can now chart our routes through the aqua-marine coloured Turkish waters. On our way to Kalkan, just a few hours from Kas, Hailey finally got to drive the boat. A big 50 knot blow was to arrive and we were pleased to be secured safely. Three gullet ships three times bigger than Big Sky entered and then two squished in on both sides of us sandwich style. Kalkan is a cute touristy town, with more restaurants than people, or so it seems. Hailey was given two bracelets, and one hundred kisses by the locals and made friends with Khan, a boy about five years old.
May 3 -- Departure from the Kalkan harbour was dramatic, with Con and Courtney at the bow untangling our anchor chain from the gullet because the captain had laid his anchor across ours, and worse, linking our anchors. Hailey feeling the need to also be helpful stood at the helm and once we were freed, the crowd cheered to Hailey, "Well done captain!" We motored for nearly five hours to Olu Deniz, a beautiful turquoise-coloured bay taking a line ashore. The moment we were secured, Hailey took her first dip in the deep blue Mediterranean, following Opa. Even Courtney swam in the 23-degree waters. Later we picnicked on the bow watching parachuters high above.
Provide Hailey with water and she’s content. I spelled “P-o-o-l-?” to Con and Courtney, and Hailey shouted, “Ya!” By night, Hailey’s a wonderful story teller entertaining us for hours.
May 2 -- Kalkan The Kas Marina staff informed us the luggage had arrived! Having waited seven days in the marina, we can now chart our routes through the aqua-marine coloured Turkish waters. On our way to Kalkan, just a few hours from Kas, Hailey finally got to drive the boat. A big 50 knot blow was to arrive and we were pleased to be secured safely. Three gullet ships three times bigger than Big Sky entered and then two squished in on both sides of us sandwich style. Kalkan is a cute touristy town, with more restaurants than people, or so it seems. Hailey was given two bracelets, and one hundred kisses by the locals and made friends with Khan, a boy about five years old.
May 3 -- Departure from the Kalkan harbour was dramatic, with Con and Courtney at the bow untangling our anchor chain from the gullet because the captain had laid his anchor across ours, and worse, linking our anchors. Hailey feeling the need to also be helpful stood at the helm and once we were freed, the crowd cheered to Hailey, "Well done captain!" We motored for nearly five hours to Olu Deniz, a beautiful turquoise-coloured bay taking a line ashore. The moment we were secured, Hailey took her first dip in the deep blue Mediterranean, following Opa. Even Courtney swam in the 23-degree waters. Later we picnicked on the bow watching parachuters high above.
May 5 – At our next anchorage, the Mediterranean temperatures had risen to 25.6 and there was no getting Hailey out. At one point, she swam about 150 metres by herself to shore. Courtney and I took the dinghy and Con swam ahead of Hailey.
Moving further to Fethiye, on a short-term contract we enjoyed day trips in and out of the marina to play play in the water. Coming back to our slip, just outside the marina entrance a pod of dolphins visited us at the bow. One baby dolphin jumped high in the water as if trying to get a good look at Hailey who was leaning through the rail watching them.
May 10 -- Flight to Istanbul Con booked us into a hotel in the heart of Istanbul's old city. The Blue Mosque, Haiga Sophia, Spice Bazaar and Grand Bazaar were all within a five minute walk. After two full days taking in that historic city that straddles Europe and Asia, Courtney and Hailey boarded their flight back to Canada. At the airport, Con and Courtney spent an agonizing hour seeking financial compensation from Turkish Airlines for Courtney and Hailey's eight days without their luggage. It seems Turkish Airlines had hired a very effective man whose job it was to be as nasty and confusing as possible to turn people away. Unfortunately for that man, that strategy doesn’t work on Con. Just minutes before their final boarding, the agent reluctantly signed the form handing over $75 US in compensation, less than half of what had to be purchased.
Moving further to Fethiye, on a short-term contract we enjoyed day trips in and out of the marina to play play in the water. Coming back to our slip, just outside the marina entrance a pod of dolphins visited us at the bow. One baby dolphin jumped high in the water as if trying to get a good look at Hailey who was leaning through the rail watching them.
May 10 -- Flight to Istanbul Con booked us into a hotel in the heart of Istanbul's old city. The Blue Mosque, Haiga Sophia, Spice Bazaar and Grand Bazaar were all within a five minute walk. After two full days taking in that historic city that straddles Europe and Asia, Courtney and Hailey boarded their flight back to Canada. At the airport, Con and Courtney spent an agonizing hour seeking financial compensation from Turkish Airlines for Courtney and Hailey's eight days without their luggage. It seems Turkish Airlines had hired a very effective man whose job it was to be as nasty and confusing as possible to turn people away. Unfortunately for that man, that strategy doesn’t work on Con. Just minutes before their final boarding, the agent reluctantly signed the form handing over $75 US in compensation, less than half of what had to be purchased.
May 15 – With our guests tucked away in Canada again, Con and I headed to Iztuzu Beach, popularly known as "Turtle Beach," and checked into the brand new marina where the only cost is a commitment to eat in their restaurant. Otherwise, we are to pay $105 Turkish lira per night. We choose the restaurant and our bill came to the equivalent of CND$65. The food and view were spectacular. For nine years, I've anxiously awaited viewing the Loggerhead Marine Turtles (every since our 2003 charter here) and was thrilled to be there just before breeding season (June to September) when we would have been banned from viewing them. The turtles resemble amphibious landing crafts with each one weighing 140 kilos (300 pounds). The females are making their way from the West African Coast with the majority arriving in a few weeks (throughout June and July). They come to shore at night, laying hundreds of leathery eggs resembling golf balls and cover them up in the sand. Lots of predictors arrive at night to eat them, like foxes who find the nests through scent. About six to eight weeks later, the turtles hatch and claw their way up the sand for air and make their fateful journey to the sea. Hundreds of them are eaten alive by ghost crabs that lay traps for them in the sand. Hawks and other birds feast too. It's a tough journey toward "life" and no wonder their endangered. With a guide, we carried on through the swamp water to the Lycian and Roman ruins of Caunos. Many of the ruins were built in the 4th century BC. The Lycians honoured their dead by finding choice locations in the high rocks, and carving out pigeon holes to place them inside. For others, they carved intricate temple facades that remain today, however their tombs have long since been raided. Below, a small portion of the ruins of Caunos, once a thriving Lycian port city in the 4th Century BC, now marsh land to the sea in the far distance. Spring has sprung. The fields are a buzz with every sized bee, wasp, butterfly, dragon fly, beetle, spiders... It's a beautiful sight.
May 19 -- We're remembering Larry Radu, frozen in time at 49, who would have been 60 today.
May 21 – My eyes scanned the calm morning waters outside Bozburun, Turkey when my peripheral vision spotted a black moving object coming closer and closer to Big Sky. I changed course while under sail to slowed down our speed just as the submarine exposed itself above water and cut in front of us. Our days have consisted of a few hours of sailing and then dropping anchor in one delightful cove after another and every few days into a village harbor. Below: submarine; goat going to market; and Big Sky in Bozborum.
May 19 -- We're remembering Larry Radu, frozen in time at 49, who would have been 60 today.
May 21 – My eyes scanned the calm morning waters outside Bozburun, Turkey when my peripheral vision spotted a black moving object coming closer and closer to Big Sky. I changed course while under sail to slowed down our speed just as the submarine exposed itself above water and cut in front of us. Our days have consisted of a few hours of sailing and then dropping anchor in one delightful cove after another and every few days into a village harbor. Below: submarine; goat going to market; and Big Sky in Bozborum.
In the news:
This past January we toured the Parma region enjoying the Parmesan cheese, balsamic vinegar and Prosciutto ham. While there, we experienced two earthquakes. Sadly the Parma region experienced a 6.0 earthquake today killing six and damaging 200,000 wheels of cheese. Each wheel takes a full day to prepare, and the factory we toured makes just six each day.
May 23 -- We're anchored in the lovely ancient harbour of Knidos, the site of Aphrodite making a beautiful view to wake up and view. Imagine in 400 BC there were 50,000 people living here, and today, there's one restaurant. We anchored here nine years ago and access to this area was only possible by sea; today there's a small road. We ponder the harbour floor and all the crude sailing vessels built 2,400 years ago that anchored in this same spot. Entering is tricky, especially in rough weather like yesterday. The ancient northern breakwater is submerged, but the southern one is still above water. There are two amphitheaters, the small one clearly visible from Big Sky at anchor. This is the site where the statue of Aphrodite (long gone) carved in 400 BC was the first statue of a nude female. The Greeks who occupied the land then, only allowed nudes males up until that point. It must have been a major scandal in their day. Aphrodite is supposed to bring luck to sailors, among other things.
This past January we toured the Parma region enjoying the Parmesan cheese, balsamic vinegar and Prosciutto ham. While there, we experienced two earthquakes. Sadly the Parma region experienced a 6.0 earthquake today killing six and damaging 200,000 wheels of cheese. Each wheel takes a full day to prepare, and the factory we toured makes just six each day.
May 23 -- We're anchored in the lovely ancient harbour of Knidos, the site of Aphrodite making a beautiful view to wake up and view. Imagine in 400 BC there were 50,000 people living here, and today, there's one restaurant. We anchored here nine years ago and access to this area was only possible by sea; today there's a small road. We ponder the harbour floor and all the crude sailing vessels built 2,400 years ago that anchored in this same spot. Entering is tricky, especially in rough weather like yesterday. The ancient northern breakwater is submerged, but the southern one is still above water. There are two amphitheaters, the small one clearly visible from Big Sky at anchor. This is the site where the statue of Aphrodite (long gone) carved in 400 BC was the first statue of a nude female. The Greeks who occupied the land then, only allowed nudes males up until that point. It must have been a major scandal in their day. Aphrodite is supposed to bring luck to sailors, among other things.
May 30 -- Bodrum, Turkey on the hard After researching various yards in the area, we settled on Yat Lift and were pleased we did. Under scorching hot sun, we took down the sails, did a bit of maintenance while Big Sky was on land, and then checked into a brand new all-inclusive resort in Bodrum enjoying a sea-view room, three gourmet meals a day, free drinks, swimming pool, squash, ping pong, billiards, mini golf, and a top-notch spa (gym, massage, haman) all at give-away prices.
CANADA
June 12 – Filling up with our kids and grandkids is always our annual highlight. We drove through rain to Brit and Kris’. Pools of water drenched the farmer’s fields for 900 km from Calgary to Carrot River. It was Brit’s birthday, and Rosco, her dog delivered two dead rabbits (by mouth) to Brit at the front door. That night after dinner, Kris took his 22 and shot a skunk in their yard right through its stink gland. The smell could have been worse, but the wind was blowing away from the house. Con and I have been left in charge of 3-year-old Nolan and as our reward, we opened the front door, Rosco came in with another dead rabbit for us, holding it with ownership in his teeth. Con lured it out of his mouth with a piece of cheese.
CALGARY STAMPEDE
Our friends Roc and Lori treated us to a VIP treatment at the Calgary Stampede. You can’t show up in regular clothes, so we went out in search of cowboy hats & boots for the occasion, feeling as if we had the Stampede look. By the end of the day, I wasn’t sure who was more crippled, Con or me from our expensive cowboy boots! (A month later, I lost both my big toenails from my fancy boots.)
CANADA
June 12 – Filling up with our kids and grandkids is always our annual highlight. We drove through rain to Brit and Kris’. Pools of water drenched the farmer’s fields for 900 km from Calgary to Carrot River. It was Brit’s birthday, and Rosco, her dog delivered two dead rabbits (by mouth) to Brit at the front door. That night after dinner, Kris took his 22 and shot a skunk in their yard right through its stink gland. The smell could have been worse, but the wind was blowing away from the house. Con and I have been left in charge of 3-year-old Nolan and as our reward, we opened the front door, Rosco came in with another dead rabbit for us, holding it with ownership in his teeth. Con lured it out of his mouth with a piece of cheese.
CALGARY STAMPEDE
Our friends Roc and Lori treated us to a VIP treatment at the Calgary Stampede. You can’t show up in regular clothes, so we went out in search of cowboy hats & boots for the occasion, feeling as if we had the Stampede look. By the end of the day, I wasn’t sure who was more crippled, Con or me from our expensive cowboy boots! (A month later, I lost both my big toenails from my fancy boots.)
Calgary Stampede
August 3 – While Big Sky remains on the hard for two months under Turkey’s blistering hot weather (30s and 40s) we’re wrapping up our travels which have taken us from Turkey to Canada, The Netherland, Prague, Budapest, Vienna, and Bratslava.
VISIT OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: Prague, Budapest, Vienna, & Bratislava
VISIT OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: Prague, Budapest, Vienna, & Bratislava
BACK ON THE BOAT in Bodrum, Turkey
August 24 – Our 20-day land trip to the Czech Republic, Hungary, Austria, and Slovakia removed us from Turkey’s hot summer temperatures. The 40 degree heat slows us down. By day we work with the yard and by afternoon, cool off in a beautiful swimming pool in a Bodrum hotel. While Con supervised the removal of our prop and shaft, I used the bus system to travel outside the city to buy LED lights for our mast. I was overcharged on the first bus, only learning it when I observed others, but didn’t have the energy to argue. I got out and climbed aboard the second bus, hoping I was still on track for the stores. I rang the bell prematurely and had to walk up a dusty highway but into the air conditioned store. They only had a few lights but told me there was another store further up the hill. I paid, left, began hiking up the hill barely able to lift my legs in the heat but then realized I’d been short changed. Turned around, presented my receipt, the cashier guy knew he’d done it and the manager was called. This time, I argued for it and received the correct change $10 lire. Back up the hill, I found the second store, the man pulled out four lights still in the boxes. I asked to see them, he kept saying, “Correct, correct”, and I didn’t check. I hustled for the bus, lost my hat while running, chased it down the highway, just made the bus, sat, opened the boxes and discovered they were wrong. I shouted to the driver. “Dur! Dur! (stop) and asked for my fair back. He shook his head and opened the door. I dragged my sweaty self back up the hill, sweat dripping into my sandals, into the store, showed the man saying, “Not correct.” He didn’t smile, he asked me for my receipt which he knew he didn’t give me. I waited with my palm up. He opened the cash drawer and put the money in, taking my bag without a word.
August 26 -- What are the odds? Con and I left the yard mid-afternoon when all the trades appeared to have ended their day. Temperatures hovering around 39, we climbed aboard the #2 bus, pouring ourselves out a block further than we had planned. Hoisting our back packs over our shoulders, we planted a we-can-do-it-grimace on our faces, ready to climb the 300 meter up hill to our hotel. Just as I positioned my heavy backpack for the hike, I heard, "Barb, Con, is that you?" Dave and Jane, two people we met in the yard last May were driving by just at that moment and offered a ride. We tossed the bags in the back with their dog Sheba and climbed into their air conditioned SUV. Our friends Judy and Bruno said, "If you go to Bodrum, be sure to look for our friends Dave and Jane." That's a bit like, "Oh, you're from Canada, do you know our uncle in Toronto?" But there y'are!
We shared dinner at their place the next night. Jane's from New Zealand and Dave's from Scotland and for now they've settled in Bodrum in a beautiful apartment high on a hill with a knock-your-socks-off sea view.
We are crossing our fingers that the scheduled (and unscheduled) work will be completed tomorrow and we can have Big Sky put back in the water. The complications have been created by the wind picking up and the topsides clean, wax, and polish delayed. Other work: anti fouling, rigging checked, LED anchor lights replaced, shaft bearings replaced, minor repairs to the teak pegs and stainless steel rail, replacing the anodes, and lastly our bow thruster looked at – AGAIN. It’s never worked properly since our Victron inverter was hit by lightning and subsequently replaced, and the electrical wiring mucked with in Ibiza, Spain.
August 29 -- "Ready to launch Big Sky Tuesday," the yard informed us. The prop shaft wasn't to be put in until Wednesday and then it will need another day to dry the filler, anti-fouling and paint. After that, the propeller will have to be refitted correctly. We thought, maybe Thursday. While Con stayed in the yard yesterday, I shopped in town getting a few new outfits. Bodrum is in the western corner of Turkey with the enormous Castle of St. Peter seemingly floating in its dominating position in the waterfront. It's a conundrum, because one part is very touristy and the other very authentically with narrow streets and white washed houses. Palm trees are scattered throughout the bougainvillea fuchsia-coloured flowing plants. The harbour is filled with gullets and leisure sailors like us. Kos, Greece is just on the other side of the water. There one major problem with the centre of Bodrum though – THE DISCO! It starts at 11:30 pm and goes until 4 am and gets in your brain like chewing gum in your hair. We thought we were getting a fabulous hotel in the heart of the city until 11:30 pm. It was impossible to sleep and the laser light show flooded our room. How do locals live here? The lasers can be seen across the Aegean in Kos, Greece. Beyond the bonk bonk bonk all night, the taxis, buses, motor cycles and cars honking in the narrow cobble-stone streets echo up to the rooms. It’s about the craziest thing.
August 24 – Our 20-day land trip to the Czech Republic, Hungary, Austria, and Slovakia removed us from Turkey’s hot summer temperatures. The 40 degree heat slows us down. By day we work with the yard and by afternoon, cool off in a beautiful swimming pool in a Bodrum hotel. While Con supervised the removal of our prop and shaft, I used the bus system to travel outside the city to buy LED lights for our mast. I was overcharged on the first bus, only learning it when I observed others, but didn’t have the energy to argue. I got out and climbed aboard the second bus, hoping I was still on track for the stores. I rang the bell prematurely and had to walk up a dusty highway but into the air conditioned store. They only had a few lights but told me there was another store further up the hill. I paid, left, began hiking up the hill barely able to lift my legs in the heat but then realized I’d been short changed. Turned around, presented my receipt, the cashier guy knew he’d done it and the manager was called. This time, I argued for it and received the correct change $10 lire. Back up the hill, I found the second store, the man pulled out four lights still in the boxes. I asked to see them, he kept saying, “Correct, correct”, and I didn’t check. I hustled for the bus, lost my hat while running, chased it down the highway, just made the bus, sat, opened the boxes and discovered they were wrong. I shouted to the driver. “Dur! Dur! (stop) and asked for my fair back. He shook his head and opened the door. I dragged my sweaty self back up the hill, sweat dripping into my sandals, into the store, showed the man saying, “Not correct.” He didn’t smile, he asked me for my receipt which he knew he didn’t give me. I waited with my palm up. He opened the cash drawer and put the money in, taking my bag without a word.
August 26 -- What are the odds? Con and I left the yard mid-afternoon when all the trades appeared to have ended their day. Temperatures hovering around 39, we climbed aboard the #2 bus, pouring ourselves out a block further than we had planned. Hoisting our back packs over our shoulders, we planted a we-can-do-it-grimace on our faces, ready to climb the 300 meter up hill to our hotel. Just as I positioned my heavy backpack for the hike, I heard, "Barb, Con, is that you?" Dave and Jane, two people we met in the yard last May were driving by just at that moment and offered a ride. We tossed the bags in the back with their dog Sheba and climbed into their air conditioned SUV. Our friends Judy and Bruno said, "If you go to Bodrum, be sure to look for our friends Dave and Jane." That's a bit like, "Oh, you're from Canada, do you know our uncle in Toronto?" But there y'are!
We shared dinner at their place the next night. Jane's from New Zealand and Dave's from Scotland and for now they've settled in Bodrum in a beautiful apartment high on a hill with a knock-your-socks-off sea view.
We are crossing our fingers that the scheduled (and unscheduled) work will be completed tomorrow and we can have Big Sky put back in the water. The complications have been created by the wind picking up and the topsides clean, wax, and polish delayed. Other work: anti fouling, rigging checked, LED anchor lights replaced, shaft bearings replaced, minor repairs to the teak pegs and stainless steel rail, replacing the anodes, and lastly our bow thruster looked at – AGAIN. It’s never worked properly since our Victron inverter was hit by lightning and subsequently replaced, and the electrical wiring mucked with in Ibiza, Spain.
August 29 -- "Ready to launch Big Sky Tuesday," the yard informed us. The prop shaft wasn't to be put in until Wednesday and then it will need another day to dry the filler, anti-fouling and paint. After that, the propeller will have to be refitted correctly. We thought, maybe Thursday. While Con stayed in the yard yesterday, I shopped in town getting a few new outfits. Bodrum is in the western corner of Turkey with the enormous Castle of St. Peter seemingly floating in its dominating position in the waterfront. It's a conundrum, because one part is very touristy and the other very authentically with narrow streets and white washed houses. Palm trees are scattered throughout the bougainvillea fuchsia-coloured flowing plants. The harbour is filled with gullets and leisure sailors like us. Kos, Greece is just on the other side of the water. There one major problem with the centre of Bodrum though – THE DISCO! It starts at 11:30 pm and goes until 4 am and gets in your brain like chewing gum in your hair. We thought we were getting a fabulous hotel in the heart of the city until 11:30 pm. It was impossible to sleep and the laser light show flooded our room. How do locals live here? The lasers can be seen across the Aegean in Kos, Greece. Beyond the bonk bonk bonk all night, the taxis, buses, motor cycles and cars honking in the narrow cobble-stone streets echo up to the rooms. It’s about the craziest thing.
September 1 – With delight, we watched Big Sky's keel touch down in the water again. Wasting no time, we motored to the diesel station and loaded up on 1,187 litres that ought to do us for a year. (The price was 3.56 TL ($1.94 CND) per litre.) Our friend Dave suggested a quiet anchorage and gave us the coordinates. We got there and within minutes put on our snorkels and fins and splashed till dinner. Dave and Jane joined us aboard for a dinner. The next morning we motor-sailed to Didim, arriving 5 1/2 hours later. The sea was rough. Once settled, we walked to the bus stop heading in the direction of a Vodafone shop. We’d made a purchase in Bodrum and soon realized they’d ripped us off. Not only did they charge 20 lire for a 8 lire SIM card, 60 for a package, they never activated it. We were still dealing with the Turkish government’s law on foreign cell phone use. Either pay 100 lire tax and properly register it, or they lock your phone and it can’t be used. We explained that we’d registered a phone last spring, put the SIM card in, the phone broke, we bought a new one, put in the old SIM and the Turkish government locked our new phone.
September 4 -- With 48 hours remaining on our Turkish visa, (we’re only allowed 90 days in 180 days and on the 91st day, the fines begin) we wasted no time. Untying from D-Marin in Didim, we pointed our bow toward Leros, Greece, the island Mussolini called home. For 160 TL we have to hire an agent to check us out. Checking in costs another 300 to 400 TL. (The Turkish government doesn't make it easy for cruisers here.) Following WWII the Greek people used the island as a place for the mentally challenged to live. An asylum still exists in their main town, mostly occupied by cats. The island has a completely different look from the other Greek islands, with the Italian architectural influence. It's a pretty island. Our lunch menu was interesting. Tripe you might know is stomach lining of a cow. Trotter is the hoof (we think). We didn't want to tripe or trotter and had pizza.
Practicing preventative maintenance, we did the big job of replacing the prop shaft bearings. We didn't have them change the stuffing box, or re-stuff the stuffing box and our first sail was our first indication that that was a mistake. (The stuffing box is the gizmo that prevents the sea from running into the boat through the hole that the prop enters the boat and engine room.) During our first sail, the bilge pump was pumping out water and when Con checked the engine room, he could see that too much water was entering. We're seeking a cradle to lift Big Sky again and have the stuffing box re-stuffed.
September 4 -- With 48 hours remaining on our Turkish visa, (we’re only allowed 90 days in 180 days and on the 91st day, the fines begin) we wasted no time. Untying from D-Marin in Didim, we pointed our bow toward Leros, Greece, the island Mussolini called home. For 160 TL we have to hire an agent to check us out. Checking in costs another 300 to 400 TL. (The Turkish government doesn't make it easy for cruisers here.) Following WWII the Greek people used the island as a place for the mentally challenged to live. An asylum still exists in their main town, mostly occupied by cats. The island has a completely different look from the other Greek islands, with the Italian architectural influence. It's a pretty island. Our lunch menu was interesting. Tripe you might know is stomach lining of a cow. Trotter is the hoof (we think). We didn't want to tripe or trotter and had pizza.
Practicing preventative maintenance, we did the big job of replacing the prop shaft bearings. We didn't have them change the stuffing box, or re-stuff the stuffing box and our first sail was our first indication that that was a mistake. (The stuffing box is the gizmo that prevents the sea from running into the boat through the hole that the prop enters the boat and engine room.) During our first sail, the bilge pump was pumping out water and when Con checked the engine room, he could see that too much water was entering. We're seeking a cradle to lift Big Sky again and have the stuffing box re-stuffed.
September 5 – We docked in Lakki, a small harbour on Leros beside a Nauticat boat, with another Nauticat beside them and then a chartered boat filled with Finns docked on our other side. (Nauticat boats are made in Finland.)
September 7 -- Happy Birthday Dex! Our grandson turns four today. Dex, Nick and Bryant will visit aboard in a few weeks. Motor sailing to Patmos, we officially checked into Greece. The cruising log was good for three months, for 30 euro, plus 15 euro to the Port Police. It appears Greece is converting to computer systems so Big Sky is officially logged online. First priority was getting a SIM card for internet, leaving us no time to get groceries before the stores closed. We had enough coffee aboard for two days, a serious situation since we would be at least three days at anchor with a northern blow building. We had made friends while in Turkey last spring with Canadian’s Jean and Trevor now anchored beside us. Sheepishly I asked if they could spare an ounce of coffee which they did, and then invited us for dinner aboard their beautiful boat, Onward. There were four boats anchored in the bay, two Canadian, one USA, and a German. We met on the beach at 6 pm for a beach party, sharing food, drinks, and stories.
September 7 -- Happy Birthday Dex! Our grandson turns four today. Dex, Nick and Bryant will visit aboard in a few weeks. Motor sailing to Patmos, we officially checked into Greece. The cruising log was good for three months, for 30 euro, plus 15 euro to the Port Police. It appears Greece is converting to computer systems so Big Sky is officially logged online. First priority was getting a SIM card for internet, leaving us no time to get groceries before the stores closed. We had enough coffee aboard for two days, a serious situation since we would be at least three days at anchor with a northern blow building. We had made friends while in Turkey last spring with Canadian’s Jean and Trevor now anchored beside us. Sheepishly I asked if they could spare an ounce of coffee which they did, and then invited us for dinner aboard their beautiful boat, Onward. There were four boats anchored in the bay, two Canadian, one USA, and a German. We met on the beach at 6 pm for a beach party, sharing food, drinks, and stories.
September 9 – With 25 - 35 knot winds, Bruce (our anchor) was dug in deep and we swam night and day. We met Jean and Trevor for lunch on the hill. Patmos is the island where St. John allegedly wrote the Book of Revelation in the Bible. The cave where he did the writing is a tourist attraction for the religious and curious. Con and I rented a motorcycle nine years ago when we chartered a boat and visited the cave. Con jumped on the back behind me, as only I have a motorcycle licence. Two young German women were so moved when they entered the doorway they broke into tears collapsing at the entrance.
September 11 – Day three: The wind died a bit, as predicted so we pulled up anchor for our blustery 9.5 NM trek to the small island of Arki dropping Bruce and swimming in the delicious waters.
We motored 25 NM the next day to the island of Samos tying at the quay with Bruce (anchor) nearly inside the seaside restaurant. Finally, we filled our empty cupboards with fresh produce. That night, we fell asleep to pleasant sounding Greek music coming from the restaurant.
September 11 – Day three: The wind died a bit, as predicted so we pulled up anchor for our blustery 9.5 NM trek to the small island of Arki dropping Bruce and swimming in the delicious waters.
We motored 25 NM the next day to the island of Samos tying at the quay with Bruce (anchor) nearly inside the seaside restaurant. Finally, we filled our empty cupboards with fresh produce. That night, we fell asleep to pleasant sounding Greek music coming from the restaurant.
September 13 -- Refugees
Stern to at the Agathonisi, Greece quay (about 12 km to the closest Turkish coast), at 7:30 am drinking latte's, we were just about to make breakfast when a whistle blew directed into our boat, followed by loud and clear instruction. “Leave immediately!” It was the coast guard. It’s not that easy to “leave immediately” because it takes time to dismantle our gang plank and store everything. Finally untying and motoring to our bow anchor ready to lift it, a partially deflated dinghy with Syrian refugees aboard was being towed to the quay. An Austrian-flagged Coast Guard boat had brought them in. (The EU is working together in Greek waters looking for refugees, as their coasts are too vast to do alone.) The dingy had about 19 adults and four children (an infant, two toddlers and a girl about eight). Guards led them off the boat one at a time, had them kneel to face the hill with their backs to the quay. Meanwhile, Con and I floated on our bow anchor in the harbour taking photos and videos. The whistle blew once again -- at us -- and this time we were told to bring our camera to them. We called across the water and signaled with our hands that we couldn’t do that. Wasting no time, they marched to an Austrian-flagged coast guard motor boat, and began their short trip across the marina waters to us. I raced below, pulled out the camera SD card, opened my laptop and transferred as many photos as I could, finally stopping short of getting them all when Con said without moving his lips, smiling at the agents, “Now Barb, I need it NOW.” I reached up from the pilot house stair, slipped the SD card into the camera Con was holding just out of sight from the agents. As the agent leaned over our rail, palm up for the camera, I snapped the clip closed, and Con handed it over, believing it would be the last time we saw our camera.
Politely looking at each photo and shaking his head, the agent kept saying, “No. No. No. Illegal", deleting them one at a time and then handing the camera back to Con adding, “you could be arrested, and now you must go.” I seriously doubt there’s an issue with filming; reporters do it all the time, but we were happy to receive our camera back and left.
Stern to at the Agathonisi, Greece quay (about 12 km to the closest Turkish coast), at 7:30 am drinking latte's, we were just about to make breakfast when a whistle blew directed into our boat, followed by loud and clear instruction. “Leave immediately!” It was the coast guard. It’s not that easy to “leave immediately” because it takes time to dismantle our gang plank and store everything. Finally untying and motoring to our bow anchor ready to lift it, a partially deflated dinghy with Syrian refugees aboard was being towed to the quay. An Austrian-flagged Coast Guard boat had brought them in. (The EU is working together in Greek waters looking for refugees, as their coasts are too vast to do alone.) The dingy had about 19 adults and four children (an infant, two toddlers and a girl about eight). Guards led them off the boat one at a time, had them kneel to face the hill with their backs to the quay. Meanwhile, Con and I floated on our bow anchor in the harbour taking photos and videos. The whistle blew once again -- at us -- and this time we were told to bring our camera to them. We called across the water and signaled with our hands that we couldn’t do that. Wasting no time, they marched to an Austrian-flagged coast guard motor boat, and began their short trip across the marina waters to us. I raced below, pulled out the camera SD card, opened my laptop and transferred as many photos as I could, finally stopping short of getting them all when Con said without moving his lips, smiling at the agents, “Now Barb, I need it NOW.” I reached up from the pilot house stair, slipped the SD card into the camera Con was holding just out of sight from the agents. As the agent leaned over our rail, palm up for the camera, I snapped the clip closed, and Con handed it over, believing it would be the last time we saw our camera.
Politely looking at each photo and shaking his head, the agent kept saying, “No. No. No. Illegal", deleting them one at a time and then handing the camera back to Con adding, “you could be arrested, and now you must go.” I seriously doubt there’s an issue with filming; reporters do it all the time, but we were happy to receive our camera back and left.
September 17 -- Hair Cut Adventure
Swinging gently on anchor, swimming, and rowing to shore for supplies was easy. Climbing the 300 meters uphill would have been a lot easier on a donkey like many of the locals.
September 22 – We entered Bodrum, Turkey and hired an agent again, we checked in despite having over stayed our 90 days in 180 in Turkey). No one asked; we didn’t tell. We moved to Didim, where three men expertly fixed our bow thruster by putting in a new relay. It's been a subject of angst for four years as it seems to break down as soon as we fix it. Con says it makes us better boat handlers. Two more men arrived with a repair kit and fixed the gel coat on our stern and you cannot tell there was ever a gash. The next morning, two men arrived to inspect the stuffing box to see if the pecking rings should be replaced. Verdict: yes. Outcome: we'll do it next time we're lifted. The workmanship in Turkey is among the best, but you must know where to go.
I needed a haircut, and for about a Canadian dollar, took the bus (dolmus) into town searching for a hair salon that looked professional. It’s always a crap shoot. I stopped in a good looking place, asked the woman who spoke pretty good English for a cut and highlights. She said, “85 L” (About $50 CND. I sat down, pulled out my iPad where I had a sample of the cut and colour and waited. A man with long purple fingernails was assigned the task, studied the photo for the longest time and I thought this might just be the right place. The moment he took the first cut, I knew I was in trouble. He flipped my hair any which way and snipped it here, then there, pushing hair behind my ear... He kept stopping to look at the photo and then grabbed a chunk of hair held it up, clipped it straight across leaving a line. At this point, two young boys ran through the salon calling him names obviously teasing him. He stopped cutting (thank God) and chased them with his comb and scissors pointing toward them, cornering them in the back of the salon. The boy shouted what might have been the equivalent of “Don’t kill me! Don’t kill me! Don’t kill me!” When Purple Fingernails returned I was standing.
“This is good.” I said, “Finished. Thank you. Merhaba.”
“But you want colour.”
“No, not needed. How much please?”
“10 TL” ($5.50 CND). When I got back to the boat I saw the horrid mess. In fact one side of my hair was long and the other short! Con laughed, “Well, you really did get a 10 TL haircut alright!” Sometimes you get a good cut and sometimes you get a great story. I fixed it myself back on the boat.
Swinging gently on anchor, swimming, and rowing to shore for supplies was easy. Climbing the 300 meters uphill would have been a lot easier on a donkey like many of the locals.
September 22 – We entered Bodrum, Turkey and hired an agent again, we checked in despite having over stayed our 90 days in 180 in Turkey). No one asked; we didn’t tell. We moved to Didim, where three men expertly fixed our bow thruster by putting in a new relay. It's been a subject of angst for four years as it seems to break down as soon as we fix it. Con says it makes us better boat handlers. Two more men arrived with a repair kit and fixed the gel coat on our stern and you cannot tell there was ever a gash. The next morning, two men arrived to inspect the stuffing box to see if the pecking rings should be replaced. Verdict: yes. Outcome: we'll do it next time we're lifted. The workmanship in Turkey is among the best, but you must know where to go.
I needed a haircut, and for about a Canadian dollar, took the bus (dolmus) into town searching for a hair salon that looked professional. It’s always a crap shoot. I stopped in a good looking place, asked the woman who spoke pretty good English for a cut and highlights. She said, “85 L” (About $50 CND. I sat down, pulled out my iPad where I had a sample of the cut and colour and waited. A man with long purple fingernails was assigned the task, studied the photo for the longest time and I thought this might just be the right place. The moment he took the first cut, I knew I was in trouble. He flipped my hair any which way and snipped it here, then there, pushing hair behind my ear... He kept stopping to look at the photo and then grabbed a chunk of hair held it up, clipped it straight across leaving a line. At this point, two young boys ran through the salon calling him names obviously teasing him. He stopped cutting (thank God) and chased them with his comb and scissors pointing toward them, cornering them in the back of the salon. The boy shouted what might have been the equivalent of “Don’t kill me! Don’t kill me! Don’t kill me!” When Purple Fingernails returned I was standing.
“This is good.” I said, “Finished. Thank you. Merhaba.”
“But you want colour.”
“No, not needed. How much please?”
“10 TL” ($5.50 CND). When I got back to the boat I saw the horrid mess. In fact one side of my hair was long and the other short! Con laughed, “Well, you really did get a 10 TL haircut alright!” Sometimes you get a good cut and sometimes you get a great story. I fixed it myself back on the boat.
October 2 -- Kids Arrive and Pandemonium
The weather in Turkey was still hot and sweaty when Nick, four-year-old grandson Dex, and first-time-sailor Bryant arrived. Each day we sailed to a new anchorage or tied at the town quay to visit small towns and swim.
We motored to Bodrum to buy diesel which was 3.83 TL per litre, the best price in Europe this side of Portugal. Spying lazy lines (lines at the quay to tie up to keep us off the wall) Con motored forward. The wind was blowing hard. Bryant asked the man on shore to catch our port-side line and tie on. He shook his head. It was a task that needed immediate action, and without a port line, we were blown hard starboard against a powerboat. Another man picked up the lazy line and handed it to Nick on the port side. The two of us pulled as hard as we could trying to keep the boat off the powerboat and get the line to the stern. Con meanwhile had the boat in reverse to keep us off the concrete wall. Unbeknownst to us, the man had picked up the starboard lazy line, crossed it under our boat, and once it rose to prop level was sucked in and killed the engine. I jumped ashore and helped three other men who were pushing Big Sky back from the wall. Thankfully, the power boat kept Big Sky from swinging into the shallows. Someone pulled up another line and rigged it so we could be held back somewhat by attaching it to our port side. So, we had no engine, no lazy line, a rigged port line barely holding us from the wall, and the starboard motor boat holding us from the shallows, and then... The motor boat left!
Now there were a half dozen people (including me) trying to rig another line port side to keep us from the shallows. Once it was attached, Nick and Bryant volunteered to dive down and cut the line that was wrapped around the prop. The boat bounced wildly in the winds and waves, and if anyone could free us, I was absolutely sure it would be them. Spotting each other they dove deep with our kitchen knife exhausting themselves but not quitting until the task was done.
Meanwhile, Dex was happily playing on his iPad in the V-berth. Now with the engine, we tied up correctly with the starboard line on the starboard side, topped up our diesel and were ready to go. In the chaos, someone on shore had macraméd the line to a post making it near impossible to untie! Con, not aware that we’d not untied at the bow released the lazy line. We couldn’t leave, couldn’t manage the boat, and couldn’t free the line! I took the wheel while Con and Bryant tried to unleash the line from Big Sky’s cleat but the wind was too much of a competitor, and, our knife was now buried in the sand below Big Sky. At the helm, it was a near-losing battle to keep Big Sky off the concrete quay and our stern was being blown alongside. Fenders would have done nothing to protect the boat as a concrete block jutted out a meter down. I moved our bow in as close as I could to release the pressure on the line to help them untie it. Keeping us from coming alongside was a feat and failure would have destroyed us. The stern was nearly in the shallows and if they freed Big Sky now, we’d be in the sand before I could say, “We’d be in the sand.” The line was freed! I used the bow thruster (THANK GOD IT HAD BEEN REPAIRED), the attendant pushed our bow, Con jumped beside me at the wheel and gunned it. Waiting for the crunch, we missed the concrete by a hair.
The weather in Turkey was still hot and sweaty when Nick, four-year-old grandson Dex, and first-time-sailor Bryant arrived. Each day we sailed to a new anchorage or tied at the town quay to visit small towns and swim.
We motored to Bodrum to buy diesel which was 3.83 TL per litre, the best price in Europe this side of Portugal. Spying lazy lines (lines at the quay to tie up to keep us off the wall) Con motored forward. The wind was blowing hard. Bryant asked the man on shore to catch our port-side line and tie on. He shook his head. It was a task that needed immediate action, and without a port line, we were blown hard starboard against a powerboat. Another man picked up the lazy line and handed it to Nick on the port side. The two of us pulled as hard as we could trying to keep the boat off the powerboat and get the line to the stern. Con meanwhile had the boat in reverse to keep us off the concrete wall. Unbeknownst to us, the man had picked up the starboard lazy line, crossed it under our boat, and once it rose to prop level was sucked in and killed the engine. I jumped ashore and helped three other men who were pushing Big Sky back from the wall. Thankfully, the power boat kept Big Sky from swinging into the shallows. Someone pulled up another line and rigged it so we could be held back somewhat by attaching it to our port side. So, we had no engine, no lazy line, a rigged port line barely holding us from the wall, and the starboard motor boat holding us from the shallows, and then... The motor boat left!
Now there were a half dozen people (including me) trying to rig another line port side to keep us from the shallows. Once it was attached, Nick and Bryant volunteered to dive down and cut the line that was wrapped around the prop. The boat bounced wildly in the winds and waves, and if anyone could free us, I was absolutely sure it would be them. Spotting each other they dove deep with our kitchen knife exhausting themselves but not quitting until the task was done.
Meanwhile, Dex was happily playing on his iPad in the V-berth. Now with the engine, we tied up correctly with the starboard line on the starboard side, topped up our diesel and were ready to go. In the chaos, someone on shore had macraméd the line to a post making it near impossible to untie! Con, not aware that we’d not untied at the bow released the lazy line. We couldn’t leave, couldn’t manage the boat, and couldn’t free the line! I took the wheel while Con and Bryant tried to unleash the line from Big Sky’s cleat but the wind was too much of a competitor, and, our knife was now buried in the sand below Big Sky. At the helm, it was a near-losing battle to keep Big Sky off the concrete quay and our stern was being blown alongside. Fenders would have done nothing to protect the boat as a concrete block jutted out a meter down. I moved our bow in as close as I could to release the pressure on the line to help them untie it. Keeping us from coming alongside was a feat and failure would have destroyed us. The stern was nearly in the shallows and if they freed Big Sky now, we’d be in the sand before I could say, “We’d be in the sand.” The line was freed! I used the bow thruster (THANK GOD IT HAD BEEN REPAIRED), the attendant pushed our bow, Con jumped beside me at the wheel and gunned it. Waiting for the crunch, we missed the concrete by a hair.
We sailed off to an anchorage and asked Dex what his first impression is on the Mediterranean Sea. “It’s too wet!” He decided that digging at the beach was much more fun, until finally on his last two days before they departed, he tried the water deciding it was fun. He played his heart out splashing with a giant blow-up sting ray in Datcha. It was hard to say “good bye” having enjoyed their company so much. They flew to Istanbul and toured there before returning to North America. We filled up our 1600 litre water tanks and motored 5.5 hours to the south end of Kos and began a slow sail through the Greek islands toward the Corinth Canal. We were making our way south to Marina di Ragusa, Sicily for the winter.
Octover 3 -- The Corinth Canal
Threading through the Aegean Greek islands was absolutely glorious. We’re heading to the Corinth Canal, the most expensive motor-way in the world on a per mile basis, with a stop in Athens. Dolphins joined us at the start of our 10-hour journey.
October 7 – We booked into Piraeus’ Zea Marina for a few days to stock up on groceries and a few boat parts.
It’s Thanksgiving in Canada, I’m grateful for this life, for my family, and for Con, for food, freedom... In Athens, the Nigerian street vendors have been rounded up (we’re told) and sent back to Nigeria. Many well dressed and not so well dressed Greeks are picking through garbage bins for bottles and some for food. Life is getting tougher for the Greek.
We're docked beside a Dutch boat with Syrian crew and spoke with Fute, a man about 30, whose family is still living in Aleppo, and on the run constantly moving from one spot to another as bombs and missiles are destroying their neighbourhoods and killing the innocent. Listening to him reminds me of the dinghy full of Syrians towed into the small Greek island. Live is tough for the Syrians. Our hearts go out to the innocent Turkish people killed in Akcakale near the Syrian border, a place 18 km from where we visited this past spring, that was hit by a terrorist’s bomb.
October 9 – We travelled 51.5 NM yesterday from the Aegean Sea through the Corinth Canal and into the Ionian Sea and then detouring 10 extra NM off route to a bay to drop anchor just as the sun was setting. There aren’t a lot of suitable anchorages in the Bay of Patras as the waters are too deep. The sea was churned up from the winds but we hooked the bottom in 20 meters (about 15 meters deeper than we usually like) and slept soundly. On the way, dolphins hung out with us again.
The Corinth Canal was majestic-like, with the high canyon walls and blue waters below. We were the first boat through behind the lead boat. Unfortunately, the canal was filled with lion-head jelly fish. We have been blessed with jelly-fish free clear waters in the Aegean all summer. The cost to transit was 237 euro (about $300 Canadian) for four NM, (6 KM). The canal was dug at sea level, so there's no need for locks. It’s only 70 meters wide, impassable by most modern-sized cargo ships, they take the route around the Peloponnese. Canal digging began in the 7th century BC but stopped because it was too difficult. Instead, they used a transport system built to carry the boats through the Isthmus. The remains of that ancient construction are still seen from the canal and remnants of the ancient mooring.
Threading through the Aegean Greek islands was absolutely glorious. We’re heading to the Corinth Canal, the most expensive motor-way in the world on a per mile basis, with a stop in Athens. Dolphins joined us at the start of our 10-hour journey.
October 7 – We booked into Piraeus’ Zea Marina for a few days to stock up on groceries and a few boat parts.
It’s Thanksgiving in Canada, I’m grateful for this life, for my family, and for Con, for food, freedom... In Athens, the Nigerian street vendors have been rounded up (we’re told) and sent back to Nigeria. Many well dressed and not so well dressed Greeks are picking through garbage bins for bottles and some for food. Life is getting tougher for the Greek.
We're docked beside a Dutch boat with Syrian crew and spoke with Fute, a man about 30, whose family is still living in Aleppo, and on the run constantly moving from one spot to another as bombs and missiles are destroying their neighbourhoods and killing the innocent. Listening to him reminds me of the dinghy full of Syrians towed into the small Greek island. Live is tough for the Syrians. Our hearts go out to the innocent Turkish people killed in Akcakale near the Syrian border, a place 18 km from where we visited this past spring, that was hit by a terrorist’s bomb.
October 9 – We travelled 51.5 NM yesterday from the Aegean Sea through the Corinth Canal and into the Ionian Sea and then detouring 10 extra NM off route to a bay to drop anchor just as the sun was setting. There aren’t a lot of suitable anchorages in the Bay of Patras as the waters are too deep. The sea was churned up from the winds but we hooked the bottom in 20 meters (about 15 meters deeper than we usually like) and slept soundly. On the way, dolphins hung out with us again.
The Corinth Canal was majestic-like, with the high canyon walls and blue waters below. We were the first boat through behind the lead boat. Unfortunately, the canal was filled with lion-head jelly fish. We have been blessed with jelly-fish free clear waters in the Aegean all summer. The cost to transit was 237 euro (about $300 Canadian) for four NM, (6 KM). The canal was dug at sea level, so there's no need for locks. It’s only 70 meters wide, impassable by most modern-sized cargo ships, they take the route around the Peloponnese. Canal digging began in the 7th century BC but stopped because it was too difficult. Instead, they used a transport system built to carry the boats through the Isthmus. The remains of that ancient construction are still seen from the canal and remnants of the ancient mooring.
October 10 – These are the last days of the sailing season for us as we travel south averaging seven hours each day, enjoying a lazy-like life style. We’re sailing east across the Gulf of Patras and entered the marshy entrance to Messolonghi from Trizonnia. We enjoyed this Greek town when we were here a few years ago, seemingly untouched by tourism. We cleaned up and went into town with a few people for a real Greek meal and ouzo.
October 13 -- Calm Lazy Days turn into chaos
Night sailing from Messolonghi to Poros, Kefallonia on a calm sea with 10-15 knot southerlies we arrived in the harbour to tie up for the night. There was no room. We dropped Bruce outside the harbour breakwater with the ferry jetty just off to one side providing a bit of protection, but no trouble was expected. It should be a calm sea. The stormy weather was to arrive in a few days, however, by 5 am, it was all around us!
We woke to Big Sky bouncing wildly on the anchor, bolted out of bed, turned on the instruments and saw 50 knots on the wind speed indicator! North easterly winds were leading the charge and churning up the sea with ferocity. We had dropped Bruce with a short lead because there wasn’t a lot of room between the rough outcrop of rocks and an appropriate depth for the anchor. Securing our life jackets, turning on the GPS and radar, I took the helm, spreading my legs wide to lock my feet on each side of the cockpit for stability and Con headed to the anchor. He held tight to the rail and stepped on the “up” button to raise Bruce. The bow was bouncing in circles heeling port and starboard held tight by the anchor. The chain rose twenty meters and then bounced off the wheel. The anchor cannot rise without the chain in the wheel. With ten meters of chain left to lift, Bruce was directly below the bow. Trying to lift the chain to drop it back in the wheel could mean risking loss of fingers. He loosened the chain, lifted quickly and dropped it. After many attempts, it was back in the wheel. Con shouted instructions for me, "Forward, reverse, port, starboard," but his words were swallowed in the wind. When the lightning flashed, I made out his hand gestures and used the bow thruster side to side and engine in forward and reverse. Bruce was out of the ground. He stepped on the “up” button and Bruce tucked into its spot on the bow spit (something it NEVER does without dropping the second anchor first and then securing Bruce). Big Sky must have bounced just at the right moment to lift the 50 kg up higher than the second anchor to drop it into place topsides.
Meanwhile, I didn’t know what was going on at the bow and could only gauge our proximity to the rocks by the ferry’s lights on the concrete jetty off our port stern and reversed more than forward motion. When the lightning cracked again, I saw Con’s “thumbs up” and kept Big Sky moving faster in reverse, just missing the jetty. Con stepped into the cockpit, and I felt the relief wash over me. We were completely soaked to the bone from the rain pelting down hard.
We took Big Sky out to sea on a course away from land with the lightning storm following us. We’ve had two negative experiences with lightning and know how it can cripple equipment. We needed all our equipment to get us to safety. For the next five hours, we tucked inside the pilot house motoring through the storm and before noon, tied to the quay in the delightful town of Argostoli. The sun came out and we strolled the promenade. Paradise had returned. Three enormous Loggerhead Turtles were swimming around our boat.
The circle in the centre black and green picture above indicates our position. On a clear day, the screen is black and one or two dots will indicate another vessel. Surrounding us for 3 NM was the weather system.
Night sailing from Messolonghi to Poros, Kefallonia on a calm sea with 10-15 knot southerlies we arrived in the harbour to tie up for the night. There was no room. We dropped Bruce outside the harbour breakwater with the ferry jetty just off to one side providing a bit of protection, but no trouble was expected. It should be a calm sea. The stormy weather was to arrive in a few days, however, by 5 am, it was all around us!
We woke to Big Sky bouncing wildly on the anchor, bolted out of bed, turned on the instruments and saw 50 knots on the wind speed indicator! North easterly winds were leading the charge and churning up the sea with ferocity. We had dropped Bruce with a short lead because there wasn’t a lot of room between the rough outcrop of rocks and an appropriate depth for the anchor. Securing our life jackets, turning on the GPS and radar, I took the helm, spreading my legs wide to lock my feet on each side of the cockpit for stability and Con headed to the anchor. He held tight to the rail and stepped on the “up” button to raise Bruce. The bow was bouncing in circles heeling port and starboard held tight by the anchor. The chain rose twenty meters and then bounced off the wheel. The anchor cannot rise without the chain in the wheel. With ten meters of chain left to lift, Bruce was directly below the bow. Trying to lift the chain to drop it back in the wheel could mean risking loss of fingers. He loosened the chain, lifted quickly and dropped it. After many attempts, it was back in the wheel. Con shouted instructions for me, "Forward, reverse, port, starboard," but his words were swallowed in the wind. When the lightning flashed, I made out his hand gestures and used the bow thruster side to side and engine in forward and reverse. Bruce was out of the ground. He stepped on the “up” button and Bruce tucked into its spot on the bow spit (something it NEVER does without dropping the second anchor first and then securing Bruce). Big Sky must have bounced just at the right moment to lift the 50 kg up higher than the second anchor to drop it into place topsides.
Meanwhile, I didn’t know what was going on at the bow and could only gauge our proximity to the rocks by the ferry’s lights on the concrete jetty off our port stern and reversed more than forward motion. When the lightning cracked again, I saw Con’s “thumbs up” and kept Big Sky moving faster in reverse, just missing the jetty. Con stepped into the cockpit, and I felt the relief wash over me. We were completely soaked to the bone from the rain pelting down hard.
We took Big Sky out to sea on a course away from land with the lightning storm following us. We’ve had two negative experiences with lightning and know how it can cripple equipment. We needed all our equipment to get us to safety. For the next five hours, we tucked inside the pilot house motoring through the storm and before noon, tied to the quay in the delightful town of Argostoli. The sun came out and we strolled the promenade. Paradise had returned. Three enormous Loggerhead Turtles were swimming around our boat.
The circle in the centre black and green picture above indicates our position. On a clear day, the screen is black and one or two dots will indicate another vessel. Surrounding us for 3 NM was the weather system.
Locked in One Storm Cell After Another
October 14 - 16 – With our surprise storm still fresh on our nerves, we were extra careful consulting our many weather websites. It appeared the morning would be the best departure from Argostini for the 48-hour trek with 10-15 knot diminishing winds. An hour into our trip, we were reefing the sails, in 40-knot winds. To say we were surprised was an understatement. We took in the sails and moved inside to the navigation station and looked out the windows “Do you want to return to Argostini Barb?” Con asked sincerely.
I believed it would pass and we’d get what was promised, “No, let’s keep going.”
The sea was agitated and the first of the thunder and lightning storm cells attacked sending thick lightning bolts into the water. The daggers arrived haphazardly in front and beside. Stunned at what we were witnessing, it was like a National Geographic program, but we were in it! The cell moved closer and closer, and daylight became night. Lightning continued horizontally and most frightening vertically. The air was electric. Just when we thought the cell passed, a second one arrived from behind colliding into it. Again, we contemplated returning to Greece, but with the storms now from behind we seemed to be smack dab in the centre of a massive system. Con gave a chuckle, “How was this missed on all the weather websites?” There wasn’t a lot we could do but chuckle and endure.
Hours went by with no let up. The second of the four storm cells that hit us was the worst, lasting nine hours. It teased us like it was moving on, but would circle back. We waited calmly for a strike, believing it was a miracle that it never came. Rain drove down in torrents and when daylight tried to show itself again, it was replaced with a collage of black and grey fast-moving formations. I clocked 59 knots and the sea became down-right awful. Big waves rocked our 27 tons with deep side to side movements, washing overboard, with thick water running heavily down the windows.
We entered the enormous Syracuse protected bay at 9 pm on the 37th hour of our journey – ahead of schedule – both weather worn and me sea sick. Bruce dug in deep in the 10 meter water. We ate, and slept exhausted only to wake at 2 am when another isolated violent storm arrived. At the mercy of Bruce, we watched the wind speed indicator register a steady 45 - 55 knots (Force 10) and that was in the bay! We clocked frequent gusts as high as 62 (Force 11). We stayed vigilant from our pilot house windows keeping an eye on three boats at anchor directly in our path if their anchors dragged. A man from a British-flagged boat beside us had been dragging and attempted to re anchor. Lightning filled the sky giving us snapshots of his predicament. A woman at the helm, the man at the anchor. Rain fell in sheets. The usually calm bay was running like a river with the wind, now lifting the bows and dropping them, spinning them 90 degrees back and forth. Another flash and we saw their dinghy with engine attached was upside down tied behind their boat. Thirty minutes later, the storm moved on, the lightning bolts followed like giant monsters with their electric long legs walking south with the wind and chaos. The sea calmed and we slept until the next round. It arrived at 6:30 am stirring up the sea with 20 knot winds. Like a movie, we made a couple of latte’s and sat at the table looking out the windows. Another sailboat was dragging on its anchor passing us very near to our starboard. Everyone aboard seemed to be asleep and it was heading dangerously toward the rocks. We raced outside, whistled and called, blasted our horn, but no one roused. During their drag, the coast guard entered the bay passing us by meters. We called them on the VHF, waved our hands, but there was no acknowledgement. About 20 meters from the rocks their anchor caught and stopped the drag. By 9 am, the sun was out and you’d never know what had just taken place.
October 14 - 16 – With our surprise storm still fresh on our nerves, we were extra careful consulting our many weather websites. It appeared the morning would be the best departure from Argostini for the 48-hour trek with 10-15 knot diminishing winds. An hour into our trip, we were reefing the sails, in 40-knot winds. To say we were surprised was an understatement. We took in the sails and moved inside to the navigation station and looked out the windows “Do you want to return to Argostini Barb?” Con asked sincerely.
I believed it would pass and we’d get what was promised, “No, let’s keep going.”
The sea was agitated and the first of the thunder and lightning storm cells attacked sending thick lightning bolts into the water. The daggers arrived haphazardly in front and beside. Stunned at what we were witnessing, it was like a National Geographic program, but we were in it! The cell moved closer and closer, and daylight became night. Lightning continued horizontally and most frightening vertically. The air was electric. Just when we thought the cell passed, a second one arrived from behind colliding into it. Again, we contemplated returning to Greece, but with the storms now from behind we seemed to be smack dab in the centre of a massive system. Con gave a chuckle, “How was this missed on all the weather websites?” There wasn’t a lot we could do but chuckle and endure.
Hours went by with no let up. The second of the four storm cells that hit us was the worst, lasting nine hours. It teased us like it was moving on, but would circle back. We waited calmly for a strike, believing it was a miracle that it never came. Rain drove down in torrents and when daylight tried to show itself again, it was replaced with a collage of black and grey fast-moving formations. I clocked 59 knots and the sea became down-right awful. Big waves rocked our 27 tons with deep side to side movements, washing overboard, with thick water running heavily down the windows.
We entered the enormous Syracuse protected bay at 9 pm on the 37th hour of our journey – ahead of schedule – both weather worn and me sea sick. Bruce dug in deep in the 10 meter water. We ate, and slept exhausted only to wake at 2 am when another isolated violent storm arrived. At the mercy of Bruce, we watched the wind speed indicator register a steady 45 - 55 knots (Force 10) and that was in the bay! We clocked frequent gusts as high as 62 (Force 11). We stayed vigilant from our pilot house windows keeping an eye on three boats at anchor directly in our path if their anchors dragged. A man from a British-flagged boat beside us had been dragging and attempted to re anchor. Lightning filled the sky giving us snapshots of his predicament. A woman at the helm, the man at the anchor. Rain fell in sheets. The usually calm bay was running like a river with the wind, now lifting the bows and dropping them, spinning them 90 degrees back and forth. Another flash and we saw their dinghy with engine attached was upside down tied behind their boat. Thirty minutes later, the storm moved on, the lightning bolts followed like giant monsters with their electric long legs walking south with the wind and chaos. The sea calmed and we slept until the next round. It arrived at 6:30 am stirring up the sea with 20 knot winds. Like a movie, we made a couple of latte’s and sat at the table looking out the windows. Another sailboat was dragging on its anchor passing us very near to our starboard. Everyone aboard seemed to be asleep and it was heading dangerously toward the rocks. We raced outside, whistled and called, blasted our horn, but no one roused. During their drag, the coast guard entered the bay passing us by meters. We called them on the VHF, waved our hands, but there was no acknowledgement. About 20 meters from the rocks their anchor caught and stopped the drag. By 9 am, the sun was out and you’d never know what had just taken place.
We left the island of Kefalonia (left) and sailed across the Ionian through the storm to Syracuse dropping anchor in the large harbor.
October 17 - 18 -- Syracuse is spectacular! There's a bit of history from every century captured in the architecture. We're back in Italy, the land of Parmesan cheese, well all delicious cheeses, prosciutto ham, deli specialties, red wine... Syracuse was founded by the Greek's in 733 BC and saw its power and glory between the 3rd and 5th century BC becoming Europe's most powerful city at the time. It is one of the prettiest places to get lost in for a few hours. We didn’t hang around too long, wanting to move to just around Sicily’s corner to the Porto Palo bay and dropped anchor. It wasn’t setting, so using the “anchor up” it rose along with a crab trap and Bruce seemed to be knitted into it. It took a lot of finagling to untangle it, we dropped again, and were so grateful to have a good night’s sleep. Our last sail to Marina di Ragusa was brilliant, with a following wind pushing us up to 9 knots, averaging 7 knots for the four-hour journey. Once we were tied in our winter spot, we reunited with friends we’d met in Portugal our first winter (2007) and friends from our 2011 winter spot in Kos, Greece.
October 27 – Washing salt out of our lines and sheets, storing the Genoa, putting up photos and other homey things, we had melded into the community. Like tourists, we took a bus to the hillside town of Ragusa, completely surprised by the unexpected beauty and breathtaking sights. Our Italian tour book doesn’t even include Ragusa. A few other towns, and Ragusa were flattened in 1693 when the area shook with a massive earthquake. The town was divided about where to rebuild, so the aristocrats and wealthy built the more metropolitan city (today filled with stores and businesses). The rest of the population built Ibla, in baroque style in the ravine and along the walls of the gorge in the site of the original city. It's a jumble of rock houses, churches built on top of each other with roads and pathways, stairs and plaza's crossing and bumping into each other. It's delightfully chaotic. Because the town is built in a ravine, imagine how many steps we took touring it.
October 28 -- This is a link to an article I wrote earlier this year picked up by the Ocean Navigator magazine. It was when the spring winds got the better of us.
November 3 – Nasty Job Day
The bathroom hoses need to have the calcium knocked out of them at least once a year, and today is our lucky day. We started at 9:15 in the morning, finally relaxing at 4:15 in the afternoon. Cleaning it wasn’t time consuming it was the huge challenge of getting the hose out and back in through the twisty turning, tunnel-like crevasses.
November 5 – With temperatures 26-28 degrees we donned our bathing suits and played in the waves. Amazing temperatures for this late in the season.
October 28 -- This is a link to an article I wrote earlier this year picked up by the Ocean Navigator magazine. It was when the spring winds got the better of us.
November 3 – Nasty Job Day
The bathroom hoses need to have the calcium knocked out of them at least once a year, and today is our lucky day. We started at 9:15 in the morning, finally relaxing at 4:15 in the afternoon. Cleaning it wasn’t time consuming it was the huge challenge of getting the hose out and back in through the twisty turning, tunnel-like crevasses.
November 5 – With temperatures 26-28 degrees we donned our bathing suits and played in the waves. Amazing temperatures for this late in the season.
November 9 -- Three-Day Road Trip
Another beautiful Sicilian day, blue sky and warm. In our 30-euro-per-day rental, we drove to the southern Baroque towns and quaint seaside villages. In Modica, we visited the chocolate factory where the 16th century tradition of chocolate making was brought over by Spaniards from the Mexican Aztecs. There is no butter, and chocolate is melted at the exact temperature over water and then sugar is added. It was once the staple of the poor, and now a luxury. In Scilci "Shic lee" we visited the cemetery overlooking the town. November 1st is All Saint's Day and incredibly nearly every grave, crypt and wall slot had flowers in remembrance. Arriving in the seaside town of Mezamemi during siesta, they’d rolled up the streets. Not a person in sight. The town is famous for tuna fishing and growing mini tomatoes. Their fishing traditions have been carried on for centuries. We didn't have the good luck to experience any of it. I had a bifstak (thin steak) and Con had spaghetti vongole. We moved on to Noto and stayed in a B&B walking through the town during siesta, and again, and the only activity we saw were a few cats stretching. However, we did find an ice cream seller and indulged. We decided we’d siesta and join the locals for dinner, but Con fell asleep at 5 pm and didn't wake until breakfast. We carried on to Caltgirone, another Baroque town this one known for mosaics and pottery. We were specifically looking for the 142 steps all decorated in mosaic tiles. From the highway we rounded a bend and the town came into view. It was a city! The idea of finding the 142 mosaic steps in the densely populated maze would be like finding a needle in a haystack. To boot, fog had settled in and the rain was falling. Con entered the city, turning willy-nilly through the streets, driving quickly, his elbows jerking wildly as he made hairpin turns. His route had us on streets that became path-like roads, climbing, climbing, and some ending with stairways. Before I could say "umm, where are you heading” he turned sharp, wedged the car into a spot on an 80-degree angle and jumped out. I scrunched up my face in curiosity, got out, and saw amazingly, we were at the foot of the stairway. He even impressed himself. He had aimed for the church steeple. In the afternoon, we drove into Agrigento and enjoyed the view of the Valley of the Temples from our room. The temples are beautifully preserved 5th century BC Doric style. The next morning, we toured the Scala dei Turchi (Stair of the Turks). It’s on the coast where the sand has become white rich-lime mud wedged between two beautiful beaches. The Pirates of the Barbary Coast used this location to come ashore raiding. We ended our three days with lunch overlooking the sea.
November 11 -- Remembering my grandpa today, a veteran WWI and WWII. And my dad, a navy veteran, and so many others who gave their lives in service. My grandpa survived both wars, as did my dad.
Back Aboard
We biked to the Marina di Ragusa hardware store in town and bought 3 euro worth of hardware (screw driver and Allen key). "Wait," the proprietor gestured, returning with bag bursting with juicy tomatoes. They were delicious. Old fashion generosity is the way of life. In our winter locations especially, we are accepted as part of the larger community which in the smaller towns become “family”.
Another beautiful Sicilian day, blue sky and warm. In our 30-euro-per-day rental, we drove to the southern Baroque towns and quaint seaside villages. In Modica, we visited the chocolate factory where the 16th century tradition of chocolate making was brought over by Spaniards from the Mexican Aztecs. There is no butter, and chocolate is melted at the exact temperature over water and then sugar is added. It was once the staple of the poor, and now a luxury. In Scilci "Shic lee" we visited the cemetery overlooking the town. November 1st is All Saint's Day and incredibly nearly every grave, crypt and wall slot had flowers in remembrance. Arriving in the seaside town of Mezamemi during siesta, they’d rolled up the streets. Not a person in sight. The town is famous for tuna fishing and growing mini tomatoes. Their fishing traditions have been carried on for centuries. We didn't have the good luck to experience any of it. I had a bifstak (thin steak) and Con had spaghetti vongole. We moved on to Noto and stayed in a B&B walking through the town during siesta, and again, and the only activity we saw were a few cats stretching. However, we did find an ice cream seller and indulged. We decided we’d siesta and join the locals for dinner, but Con fell asleep at 5 pm and didn't wake until breakfast. We carried on to Caltgirone, another Baroque town this one known for mosaics and pottery. We were specifically looking for the 142 steps all decorated in mosaic tiles. From the highway we rounded a bend and the town came into view. It was a city! The idea of finding the 142 mosaic steps in the densely populated maze would be like finding a needle in a haystack. To boot, fog had settled in and the rain was falling. Con entered the city, turning willy-nilly through the streets, driving quickly, his elbows jerking wildly as he made hairpin turns. His route had us on streets that became path-like roads, climbing, climbing, and some ending with stairways. Before I could say "umm, where are you heading” he turned sharp, wedged the car into a spot on an 80-degree angle and jumped out. I scrunched up my face in curiosity, got out, and saw amazingly, we were at the foot of the stairway. He even impressed himself. He had aimed for the church steeple. In the afternoon, we drove into Agrigento and enjoyed the view of the Valley of the Temples from our room. The temples are beautifully preserved 5th century BC Doric style. The next morning, we toured the Scala dei Turchi (Stair of the Turks). It’s on the coast where the sand has become white rich-lime mud wedged between two beautiful beaches. The Pirates of the Barbary Coast used this location to come ashore raiding. We ended our three days with lunch overlooking the sea.
November 11 -- Remembering my grandpa today, a veteran WWI and WWII. And my dad, a navy veteran, and so many others who gave their lives in service. My grandpa survived both wars, as did my dad.
Back Aboard
We biked to the Marina di Ragusa hardware store in town and bought 3 euro worth of hardware (screw driver and Allen key). "Wait," the proprietor gestured, returning with bag bursting with juicy tomatoes. They were delicious. Old fashion generosity is the way of life. In our winter locations especially, we are accepted as part of the larger community which in the smaller towns become “family”.
The Netherlands and Canada
November 30 --We left Marina Di Ragusa in the rain, for the Catania Airport which was under construction. Once through security, we were ushered into buses and driven to the military airport for departure. Because there was no security at Catania, and with no explanation, once we arrived on the tarmac, we were taped inside the bus! Armed guards walked around and around the bus unrolling tape. Eventually, we moved back to the airport and boarded our plan.
Arriving in the northern climate, The Netherlands was damp and cold, but Con’s family was warm and loving. We were there just long enough to pick up a nasty cold each. We flew to Canada, a winter wonderland. Alberta was laying under a blanket of snow and light flakes were sticking to the trees making everything white. Con and I visited the doctor and are now taking a round of antibiotics! Our first week in Canada was in Red Deer with Lindsey and Les, and Courtney and 3-year old Hailey. Then to Calgary to visit Nick and 4-year-old Dex.
My laptop crashed and we picked up a new one with Windows 8. I’m attempting to get all my files off the old one and get the website working again.
Asleep at the Wheel!
December 8 – We rose early (2:30 am) showered and got on the road for our 11-hour drive to Carrot River hoping to arrive in time for our son-in-law Kris’ birthday dinner and to watch step-grandson Kolton's hockey game in Tisdale. The moment we left we realized we were in for some real winter driving. The roads were frighteningly slippery and thick with fog. It lifted every so often to make the road slightly visible, then burying us again. Once the sun came out, the fog burned off and after seven tiring hours, we stopped in Saskatoon for food. I took the wheel, absolutely exhausted to drive the last four hours. Just outside Waca, my body gave in and I fell asleep behind open eyes. (I read about the syndrome when fatigued, it is possible to fall asleep behind your eyes even when they’re open.) The Saskatchewan roads for the most part are straight and thankfully I veered right, plowing into snow in the ditch, snow flying up onto our windshield. Leaving Con in the car, which was buried to the car doors in snow, I hitched a ride from a farmer who drove me back to Waca where I hired a tow truck driver, a miserable guy, but the farmer had warned me. He pulled us out for $50 with a $10 tip since he couldn’t make change. Meanwhile, nearly everyone that passed stopped to ask if Con needed help and many offered to pull him out. We got to Tisdale, celebrated Kris' birthday, and then piled into the arena for Kolton's hockey game.
First thing the next morning, we were in another hockey area this time for Nolan’s hockey practice. The temperatures are reaching -26 C and we’ve plugged the car in. Kolton (our 15-year-old step grandson) arrived by skidoo for dinner and then left by skidoo in the dark.
We drove back to Calgary a week later.
December 12 – Together with my long-time girl friends we celebrated Christmas over a pot-luck dinner. Calgary temperatures are hovering around zero with brilliant sunny big sky (hence the name of our boat). Sharing our time with our four daughters, we drove 1.5 hours from Calgary with Nick and Dex to Red Deer with Courtney and Hailey and flew to Vancouver Island to be with my mom.
December 22 – Spending time with mom is always a highlight. Doug and Merrilee were there too, making it a special holiday for us all. Mom's busiest time is the Christmas season with her choir and piano engagements. Con's brother Hugo and sister-in-law Elserine arrived for a sleep-over party at mom's. Con prepared a delicious lentil soup with ham and lots of appetizers.
December 26 -- We gave our final hugs "good-bye" to my mom, brother Doug, and Merrilee Christmas morning and climbed aboard a DELTA flight to the Netherlands. There wasn't an empty seat on the plane! We've arrived to pleasant, Victoria-like weather in Hillversum and immediately went to visit Nomie, Con's mom. She's still doing okay, at 96, but slowing down.
December 28 -- Along with the crowds, we took the train into Amsterdam and visited two unique and enjoyable small museums: Tassen Museum (a purse museum) and Van Loon Museum, the home of the co-founded of the Dutch East-India Company. The house was along the canal in the heart of the city.
December 31 -- Travel by train is the "cat's ass" as Con says! We arrived in Enschede at noon, for our planned rendezvous with long-time family friend Sam, husband Evan and two-month-old Caden. Sam and Courtney have been friends since they were two.
November 30 --We left Marina Di Ragusa in the rain, for the Catania Airport which was under construction. Once through security, we were ushered into buses and driven to the military airport for departure. Because there was no security at Catania, and with no explanation, once we arrived on the tarmac, we were taped inside the bus! Armed guards walked around and around the bus unrolling tape. Eventually, we moved back to the airport and boarded our plan.
Arriving in the northern climate, The Netherlands was damp and cold, but Con’s family was warm and loving. We were there just long enough to pick up a nasty cold each. We flew to Canada, a winter wonderland. Alberta was laying under a blanket of snow and light flakes were sticking to the trees making everything white. Con and I visited the doctor and are now taking a round of antibiotics! Our first week in Canada was in Red Deer with Lindsey and Les, and Courtney and 3-year old Hailey. Then to Calgary to visit Nick and 4-year-old Dex.
My laptop crashed and we picked up a new one with Windows 8. I’m attempting to get all my files off the old one and get the website working again.
Asleep at the Wheel!
December 8 – We rose early (2:30 am) showered and got on the road for our 11-hour drive to Carrot River hoping to arrive in time for our son-in-law Kris’ birthday dinner and to watch step-grandson Kolton's hockey game in Tisdale. The moment we left we realized we were in for some real winter driving. The roads were frighteningly slippery and thick with fog. It lifted every so often to make the road slightly visible, then burying us again. Once the sun came out, the fog burned off and after seven tiring hours, we stopped in Saskatoon for food. I took the wheel, absolutely exhausted to drive the last four hours. Just outside Waca, my body gave in and I fell asleep behind open eyes. (I read about the syndrome when fatigued, it is possible to fall asleep behind your eyes even when they’re open.) The Saskatchewan roads for the most part are straight and thankfully I veered right, plowing into snow in the ditch, snow flying up onto our windshield. Leaving Con in the car, which was buried to the car doors in snow, I hitched a ride from a farmer who drove me back to Waca where I hired a tow truck driver, a miserable guy, but the farmer had warned me. He pulled us out for $50 with a $10 tip since he couldn’t make change. Meanwhile, nearly everyone that passed stopped to ask if Con needed help and many offered to pull him out. We got to Tisdale, celebrated Kris' birthday, and then piled into the arena for Kolton's hockey game.
First thing the next morning, we were in another hockey area this time for Nolan’s hockey practice. The temperatures are reaching -26 C and we’ve plugged the car in. Kolton (our 15-year-old step grandson) arrived by skidoo for dinner and then left by skidoo in the dark.
We drove back to Calgary a week later.
December 12 – Together with my long-time girl friends we celebrated Christmas over a pot-luck dinner. Calgary temperatures are hovering around zero with brilliant sunny big sky (hence the name of our boat). Sharing our time with our four daughters, we drove 1.5 hours from Calgary with Nick and Dex to Red Deer with Courtney and Hailey and flew to Vancouver Island to be with my mom.
December 22 – Spending time with mom is always a highlight. Doug and Merrilee were there too, making it a special holiday for us all. Mom's busiest time is the Christmas season with her choir and piano engagements. Con's brother Hugo and sister-in-law Elserine arrived for a sleep-over party at mom's. Con prepared a delicious lentil soup with ham and lots of appetizers.
December 26 -- We gave our final hugs "good-bye" to my mom, brother Doug, and Merrilee Christmas morning and climbed aboard a DELTA flight to the Netherlands. There wasn't an empty seat on the plane! We've arrived to pleasant, Victoria-like weather in Hillversum and immediately went to visit Nomie, Con's mom. She's still doing okay, at 96, but slowing down.
December 28 -- Along with the crowds, we took the train into Amsterdam and visited two unique and enjoyable small museums: Tassen Museum (a purse museum) and Van Loon Museum, the home of the co-founded of the Dutch East-India Company. The house was along the canal in the heart of the city.
December 31 -- Travel by train is the "cat's ass" as Con says! We arrived in Enschede at noon, for our planned rendezvous with long-time family friend Sam, husband Evan and two-month-old Caden. Sam and Courtney have been friends since they were two.
