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Current Location: Lagos, Portugal
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2018's sailing season had a slow start with visits to Canada, Madrid, and the Loire Region of France. This year, we’ll leave the Med temporarily for the Vigo Rias in northern Atlantic Spain and winter in Lagos, Portugal 2019.
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May 5 — Sailing Diaries Day One And a great day! The sea was as smooth as silk and the new main sail worked like a charm. It was deliciously quiet, except for the gentle sound of sea slicing at the bow until the VHF called out a Pan Pan. A small rubber boat carrying 54 people left Morocco’s coast heading to southern Spain. Six and a half hours later, we arrived in Aquilas, but no further news on the migrants. Aquilas, once a Roman port found its glory again in 1765 with the castle and village being rebuilt. Today, tourist villas spill down to the sea from the foot of the castle. We attempted to dock in the marina, but Big Sky hit bottom. Anchoring was the next best option, but a triathlon was taking place with swimmers all over the large harbour. Con tried to cut across the swimming lanes — not a good idea — and was quickly shooed away. We tied in the fishing harbour (half covering the fuel dock access) and then walked the town promenade taking in the event. With late afternoon high winds expected, we untied and dropped anchor between the reef and triathlon swimmers.
May 6 — Dolphins!
We set sail early on yet another lovely sea, dodging small fishing boats making the sea a polkadot mosaic. One fisherman called out, “Buenas cosas!” (Good things) showing octopus and other sea creatures in his pail. Wind speeds climbed to 20 - 25 NM and the sea waves were building behind us. Rounding the cape for our intended anchorage near San Jose, we had to do a quick 180 degree turn or run smack into a minefield of fishing nets. Since that stop was now squashed, we decided to continue another 4.5 hours to Almiramar knowing tomorrow the sea waves would be more steep. Big Sky rose and fell deep with each wave, some 2 meters high. Mid afternoon, at least 40 enormous Bottlenose Dolphins joined us at the bow spinning to look up at us and talking with their eek eek eek sounds. As the bow dipped I thought if I reached down through the bow spit, I could touch them. It was a 12.5-hour sail, which would have been a lot longer, but our giant Genoa spread starboard like a sturdy gennaker, along with the engine, gave Big Sky at times speeds 8.5 knots. With daylight to spare, we tied on in Almiramar.
We set sail early on yet another lovely sea, dodging small fishing boats making the sea a polkadot mosaic. One fisherman called out, “Buenas cosas!” (Good things) showing octopus and other sea creatures in his pail. Wind speeds climbed to 20 - 25 NM and the sea waves were building behind us. Rounding the cape for our intended anchorage near San Jose, we had to do a quick 180 degree turn or run smack into a minefield of fishing nets. Since that stop was now squashed, we decided to continue another 4.5 hours to Almiramar knowing tomorrow the sea waves would be more steep. Big Sky rose and fell deep with each wave, some 2 meters high. Mid afternoon, at least 40 enormous Bottlenose Dolphins joined us at the bow spinning to look up at us and talking with their eek eek eek sounds. As the bow dipped I thought if I reached down through the bow spit, I could touch them. It was a 12.5-hour sail, which would have been a lot longer, but our giant Genoa spread starboard like a sturdy gennaker, along with the engine, gave Big Sky at times speeds 8.5 knots. With daylight to spare, we tied on in Almiramar.
May 7 — Update on the Migrants
We’re happy to pass along the report from the Spanish News that on Friday and Saturday, the Coast Guard rescued 15 small boats carrying 476 migrants. No casualties. Saturday, was when we heard the Pan Pan for 45 migrants on a small rubber boat. Now we believe they are safe.
We’re happy to pass along the report from the Spanish News that on Friday and Saturday, the Coast Guard rescued 15 small boats carrying 476 migrants. No casualties. Saturday, was when we heard the Pan Pan for 45 migrants on a small rubber boat. Now we believe they are safe.
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May 9 -- Two More Days on the Hard
Yesterday, we were hauled out for our annual anti fouling, anode replacements, and cleaning of the prop and bow thruster. Con and I are doing the latter two, while the crew at the Almiramar Yard clean the hull and apply the anti fouling. While prodding in the cockpit thru hull, (under the boat) I pulled out a jellyfish who was trying to stowaway. Rather than live on the hard, which can be done, but since you cannot run water, use the toilets, or showers aboard, we booked into a luxury hotel nearby. We’ve been enjoying the 10 euro delicious lunch “Menu del dias”. The meal starts with a drink of your choice, (wine, coke, beer, water...), fresh bread, a big fresh salad, followed by your choice of gaspatchio soup, lasagne, tortilla patatas, shrimp... And then the main course is offered, fish, beef, pork... and all are accompanied with french fries and a veggie. Lastly, your choice of dozens of different dessert. |
May 11, 2018 -- Big Sky was gently set back into the water this morning and we motored to our slip where we'll remain until Sunday morning, when the winds look right for our departure to Marina Puerto del Este, our first stop on our way to Portugal.
Con's back molar had been causing infection and discomfort in his gums, and yesterday it was extracted. It was the most modern facility we'd ever been in, efficient, clean, friendly, quick, and only 100 meters from the boat. For 35 euro he received a state-of-the-art panorama x-ray, for 45 euro the extraction, and for 6.50 euro antibiotics which immediately fought the infection. He's as good as new!
Con's back molar had been causing infection and discomfort in his gums, and yesterday it was extracted. It was the most modern facility we'd ever been in, efficient, clean, friendly, quick, and only 100 meters from the boat. For 35 euro he received a state-of-the-art panorama x-ray, for 45 euro the extraction, and for 6.50 euro antibiotics which immediately fought the infection. He's as good as new!
May 13 — Happy Mother’s Day (in North America)
The wind whistled through the Mediterranean from Gibraltar east creating big seas which entered the Almiramar Marina bashing against Big Sky. They turned yesterday, making a near-perfect wind for our departure west, however with the messy sea, we decided to hang out another day. Yesterday, the sail surfers were taking air on the waves at times lifting them a few meters above the water! The wind didn’t stop the young kids from going out in the waves and 30 knot winds in their small Optimists. Weather is unusually cool in southern Spain, with heavy snow still in the Sierra Mountains. Soon, the beautiful beaches here and around the Med will be filled with happy vacationers.
The wind whistled through the Mediterranean from Gibraltar east creating big seas which entered the Almiramar Marina bashing against Big Sky. They turned yesterday, making a near-perfect wind for our departure west, however with the messy sea, we decided to hang out another day. Yesterday, the sail surfers were taking air on the waves at times lifting them a few meters above the water! The wind didn’t stop the young kids from going out in the waves and 30 knot winds in their small Optimists. Weather is unusually cool in southern Spain, with heavy snow still in the Sierra Mountains. Soon, the beautiful beaches here and around the Med will be filled with happy vacationers.
May 14 — Hailey and Mike celebrate birthdays today (Grand daughter and her daddy)!
Almiramar was an affordable stop, at 10 euro a night, plus 3 euro for all the power you need, and free water, which we’re mindful of, since this is Europe’s only desert area. The area began developing in the 80s when tourism and the science of plastic-wrap agriculture showed up. Pictured above, “Costa Plasticio” as it's called. The white sheets are green houses.
Every day, Pan Pan's are called on the VHF to watch for several small crafts carrying “undetermined numbers of people” in the Alboran Sea (the water between Morocco and Spain). No sightings beyond dolphins, a few sailboats and fishing boats, and one warship. The sea was so smooth we just kept going, right passed our planned stop and 12 hours later, dropped anchor 86.6 NM further along the coast, outside the Benalmadina Marina. Water temperature is only registering 15.7 explaining the cool temperatures Spain is experiencing as wind rolls in over the sea. Lots of snow in the Sierra Mountains, and 35 cm expected in the next week. Skiing has closed for the season in Alberta but is in full swing here.
A few days ago, we sailed passed Palomares, where a lost nuclear bomb was missing for 81 days following a mid-air crash in 1966. It’s an incredible story with a link below. During the Cold War, the Americans flew a B-52 within reach of the Soviet Union loaded with four nuclear bombs (not detonated). When returning they attempted a mid-air refuelling and crashed causing a massive explosion in the air. Most died aboard both planes, but some managed to eject and were collected in the sea by local fishermen. The planes and three of the bombs came down on land, in fact some in a school yard, spreading poisonous chemicals all over the houses and crops. The military was desperate to find the fourth bomb and did mathematical trajectory attempting to locate it. Finally, they followed a tip from a local eye witness — a fisherman — who was spot on. Attempts to extract it from the sea created chaos, when they dropped it again, and then went down with a submersible and it got caught in the lines. Meanwhile, they'd relocated locals to safer houses, and destroyed their crops, except what they fed the military who were clearing the toxic ground, scraping the soil by hand having been told “it’s safe”. Of the 40 military men involved in the cleanup, 21 contracted cancer, and 9 died from diseases.
http://www.businessinsider.com/us-air-force-lost-nuclear-bombs-in-spain-2018-1
Almiramar was an affordable stop, at 10 euro a night, plus 3 euro for all the power you need, and free water, which we’re mindful of, since this is Europe’s only desert area. The area began developing in the 80s when tourism and the science of plastic-wrap agriculture showed up. Pictured above, “Costa Plasticio” as it's called. The white sheets are green houses.
Every day, Pan Pan's are called on the VHF to watch for several small crafts carrying “undetermined numbers of people” in the Alboran Sea (the water between Morocco and Spain). No sightings beyond dolphins, a few sailboats and fishing boats, and one warship. The sea was so smooth we just kept going, right passed our planned stop and 12 hours later, dropped anchor 86.6 NM further along the coast, outside the Benalmadina Marina. Water temperature is only registering 15.7 explaining the cool temperatures Spain is experiencing as wind rolls in over the sea. Lots of snow in the Sierra Mountains, and 35 cm expected in the next week. Skiing has closed for the season in Alberta but is in full swing here.
A few days ago, we sailed passed Palomares, where a lost nuclear bomb was missing for 81 days following a mid-air crash in 1966. It’s an incredible story with a link below. During the Cold War, the Americans flew a B-52 within reach of the Soviet Union loaded with four nuclear bombs (not detonated). When returning they attempted a mid-air refuelling and crashed causing a massive explosion in the air. Most died aboard both planes, but some managed to eject and were collected in the sea by local fishermen. The planes and three of the bombs came down on land, in fact some in a school yard, spreading poisonous chemicals all over the houses and crops. The military was desperate to find the fourth bomb and did mathematical trajectory attempting to locate it. Finally, they followed a tip from a local eye witness — a fisherman — who was spot on. Attempts to extract it from the sea created chaos, when they dropped it again, and then went down with a submersible and it got caught in the lines. Meanwhile, they'd relocated locals to safer houses, and destroyed their crops, except what they fed the military who were clearing the toxic ground, scraping the soil by hand having been told “it’s safe”. Of the 40 military men involved in the cleanup, 21 contracted cancer, and 9 died from diseases.
http://www.businessinsider.com/us-air-force-lost-nuclear-bombs-in-spain-2018-1
May 15 -- Benalmadina to The Rock
It was nothing less than a miracle that we stayed in bed last night and not tossed on the floor, let alone that we slept! Big Sky's 30 tons rocked like a rubber duck at anchor. Without a breath of wind, we rolled side to side with every wave. By 8 am, we lifted anchor and set sail with Gibraltar's rock as a visual just over our bow for the next eight hours. We tied up in La Linea, Spain (the backside of The Rock).
It was nothing less than a miracle that we stayed in bed last night and not tossed on the floor, let alone that we slept! Big Sky's 30 tons rocked like a rubber duck at anchor. Without a breath of wind, we rolled side to side with every wave. By 8 am, we lifted anchor and set sail with Gibraltar's rock as a visual just over our bow for the next eight hours. We tied up in La Linea, Spain (the backside of The Rock).
May 19 — We’re remembering Larry Radu, who would have been 66 today. ❤️
Mid morning, we walked to the La Linea bus stop, two busses and a fast ferry ride later, we were across the Gibraltar Strait and stepped onto Africa. Walking from the ferry, we hiked up the hillside just minutes from the terminal and arrived in the medina and our pretty riad, (pictured above in the first two photos). Riad's are traditional Moroccan Palaces or luxury homes. This one was called Palais Zharia. Click the red button below for stories and photos.
Mid morning, we walked to the La Linea bus stop, two busses and a fast ferry ride later, we were across the Gibraltar Strait and stepped onto Africa. Walking from the ferry, we hiked up the hillside just minutes from the terminal and arrived in the medina and our pretty riad, (pictured above in the first two photos). Riad's are traditional Moroccan Palaces or luxury homes. This one was called Palais Zharia. Click the red button below for stories and photos.
May 23 — Leaving the Med
Research dictated that the best time to leave La Linea was five hours before high tide to avoid the worst currents running into the Med. We departed at 7 am and flowed with the currents all morning, gaining a few extra knots. By Trafalgar, (about half way) the east running currents began clashing with the west running currents, and visible turbulence bubbled up on the surface of the water. At times, it slowed us by three knots. For a third of our 10-hour, 71-NM journey along the Spanish coast to Cadiz, we dodged fish farms and live war firing exercises. We poured ourselves a glass of cold Italian white wine, warmed up the rest of our Italian Marsala chicken dish, and ate a gourmet-like meal in the setting sun. Below: leaving Gibraltar and the Med; doing watch; Captain Con having a well deserved snooze in the forward bunk bed.
Research dictated that the best time to leave La Linea was five hours before high tide to avoid the worst currents running into the Med. We departed at 7 am and flowed with the currents all morning, gaining a few extra knots. By Trafalgar, (about half way) the east running currents began clashing with the west running currents, and visible turbulence bubbled up on the surface of the water. At times, it slowed us by three knots. For a third of our 10-hour, 71-NM journey along the Spanish coast to Cadiz, we dodged fish farms and live war firing exercises. We poured ourselves a glass of cold Italian white wine, warmed up the rest of our Italian Marsala chicken dish, and ate a gourmet-like meal in the setting sun. Below: leaving Gibraltar and the Med; doing watch; Captain Con having a well deserved snooze in the forward bunk bed.
May 25 — Two days in Chipiona
Pictured below, it's a town with endless smooth sand, also the home of Spain’s tallest lighthouse, (third tallest in Europe). We sailed on to Ayamonte, up the Guadiana River which borders Spain and Portugal. The marine store recommended Roberto to help us replace the stubborn toilet hose in the aft bathroom. It is the nastiest job aboard and after a few hours, three band-aides, and one messed up t-shirt, the task was completed. Roberto was a gem, hard-working, and not a complaint. It felt good to give him a good-sized tip. The next day, Con and I tackled the forward bathroom toilet hose, a much easier task.
Pictured below, it's a town with endless smooth sand, also the home of Spain’s tallest lighthouse, (third tallest in Europe). We sailed on to Ayamonte, up the Guadiana River which borders Spain and Portugal. The marine store recommended Roberto to help us replace the stubborn toilet hose in the aft bathroom. It is the nastiest job aboard and after a few hours, three band-aides, and one messed up t-shirt, the task was completed. Roberto was a gem, hard-working, and not a complaint. It felt good to give him a good-sized tip. The next day, Con and I tackled the forward bathroom toilet hose, a much easier task.
June 1, 2018 -- Memories today of my dad who would have been 93.
The further west we travel, it seems the more white powder-like sandy beaches we see. Yesterday, we sailed from Ayamonte, Spain to Olhao, Portugal, also up a river. We followed kilometers of white sand beaches, turned up the Olhao Cultra River and motored for another 30 minutes arriving in the delightful not-too-touristy town of Olhao. Coming in on an ebbing tide, we carefully calculated each turn following the buoys and markers to precision and docked in barely enough water to keep us afloat. Con pulled out the bikes while I checked us in, and we headed out famished to one of the many outdoor restaurant. By the time we returned to Big Sky, the land was once again flooded and the swamp that had surrounded us gone. Below: The Faro Lighthouse marking the Olhao Cultra River; locals digging for sea snails, clams, and an eel-like creature while the tide is out.
The further west we travel, it seems the more white powder-like sandy beaches we see. Yesterday, we sailed from Ayamonte, Spain to Olhao, Portugal, also up a river. We followed kilometers of white sand beaches, turned up the Olhao Cultra River and motored for another 30 minutes arriving in the delightful not-too-touristy town of Olhao. Coming in on an ebbing tide, we carefully calculated each turn following the buoys and markers to precision and docked in barely enough water to keep us afloat. Con pulled out the bikes while I checked us in, and we headed out famished to one of the many outdoor restaurant. By the time we returned to Big Sky, the land was once again flooded and the swamp that had surrounded us gone. Below: The Faro Lighthouse marking the Olhao Cultra River; locals digging for sea snails, clams, and an eel-like creature while the tide is out.
June 11 — Rounded the corner and a happy birthday to our daughter Brit
Slipping away as the tide was rising, we sailed out of the Cultra River and pointed our bow west toward Lagos, a place with special memories for us as our first winter stop eleven years ago. Wind was blowing hard as Con expertly backed Big Sky’s 30 tons into what would become our Lagos marina slip for the next week. He promptly picked up our three-day car rental and I promptly picked up a flu bug — or food poisoning — not sure which. Once my stomach settled — a bit — we set off to Sagres (the corner) and to a few locations to “try them on” in case we decided to buy property one day in Portugal. On the 9th, we untied and relocated to the outside of the pedestrian bridge since the earliest the bridge opening is 8 am. At the crack of dawn and at the lowest tide, we skimmed over the shallow canal waters to the ocean, headed west to round the corner. The water was pleasant until it wasn’t! Once nearing the “corner” we saw large Atlantic waves rolling in from North America and when Big Sky met them, she rose steeply and dipped deeply. A couple of pods Bottlenose dolphins seemingly on a mission passed us at great speeds heading toward the Med. When we made the turn north, Big Sky rocked with great animation sending anything not secured flying across the boat and back. Eleven and a half hours later, we entered the Sines Marina (pronounced Cinch) and fed our exhausted bodies. Summer is yet to arrive. Below, photos of the Sines fishing harbour, beach front, and marina.
Slipping away as the tide was rising, we sailed out of the Cultra River and pointed our bow west toward Lagos, a place with special memories for us as our first winter stop eleven years ago. Wind was blowing hard as Con expertly backed Big Sky’s 30 tons into what would become our Lagos marina slip for the next week. He promptly picked up our three-day car rental and I promptly picked up a flu bug — or food poisoning — not sure which. Once my stomach settled — a bit — we set off to Sagres (the corner) and to a few locations to “try them on” in case we decided to buy property one day in Portugal. On the 9th, we untied and relocated to the outside of the pedestrian bridge since the earliest the bridge opening is 8 am. At the crack of dawn and at the lowest tide, we skimmed over the shallow canal waters to the ocean, headed west to round the corner. The water was pleasant until it wasn’t! Once nearing the “corner” we saw large Atlantic waves rolling in from North America and when Big Sky met them, she rose steeply and dipped deeply. A couple of pods Bottlenose dolphins seemingly on a mission passed us at great speeds heading toward the Med. When we made the turn north, Big Sky rocked with great animation sending anything not secured flying across the boat and back. Eleven and a half hours later, we entered the Sines Marina (pronounced Cinch) and fed our exhausted bodies. Summer is yet to arrive. Below, photos of the Sines fishing harbour, beach front, and marina.
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June 12 — North to Sesimbra.
Big Sky laboured north against the Atlantic prevailing winds and deep waves for six hours to the fishing and diving town of Sesimbra, south of Lisbon. Divers love it here mostly to dive around the sunken Nigerian cargo ship in 25 meters, near the cape. Tied snug in a marina behind a 900-meter long rock breakwater we were protected from the restless Atlantic. The sun finally showed itself raising the temperatures to 25, but still a cool breeze blows. We walked the 2.5 km along the seafront from the marina into the pretty town butted up against miles of white sand. In the middle of the beach, the apparatus left is for whomever swims out to it. Squishing comfortably at an outdoor table we ordered grilled fish, prepared in hot charcoal-filled hole cut into the side of the restaurant. Con had lingcod, and I had dorado. It was incredibly good! |
June 17 -- In Lisbon -- why not stay a month?
From Sesimbra, we rounded the cape heading for Lisbon's Tagus River where we had booked a spot in what was once the Expo Marina, now named Marina Parque dos Nocoes. The marina has lock gates to enter and exit, but despite that some boats (like the one above) gets buried in mud twice a day. Sailing up the Tagus is spectacular with colourful Lisbon on our port side. We had planned to stay a week, and then thought two weeks would be better, and the cost of 15 days is the same as a month, so we booked in for a month! Yesterday, we walked for seven hours, once dismounting from the 20-minute commuter train into the city. We started with a climb to Campo de Santa Clara to the Saturday Flea Market "Feira da Ladra" where you can find anything from precious jewelry and art to used underwear. We attempted to find a specific cafe filled with modern art dating back to 1915, but after a few side trips through churches and along the cobble-stone streets, we found ourselves at the Sao de Jorge Castle. It's remarkably preserved and occupies the most privileged area of the old medieval/residential neighbourhood. First built by the Moors in the 11th century, it became the home or Royal Palace of Afonso Henriques, conquerer of Lisbon and the first king of Portugal. From the castle (centre picture) we could see the World Cup Football game playing in the large square and made our way down there to participate. Beer and snacks were served and people enjoyed the afternoon like a rock concert. Finally, the weather has changed and summer has arrived! Walking a bit further, we arrived at Time Out Lisbon, a festival of food and drink kiosk with hefty price tags. Packed with tourists -- some rather possessive about their seats -- I collected two glasses of wine and we relaxed on the edge of a long table before walked a few blocks to a cozy home-like restaurant we'd spotted down the street and stuffed ourselves on fabulous foods.
From Sesimbra, we rounded the cape heading for Lisbon's Tagus River where we had booked a spot in what was once the Expo Marina, now named Marina Parque dos Nocoes. The marina has lock gates to enter and exit, but despite that some boats (like the one above) gets buried in mud twice a day. Sailing up the Tagus is spectacular with colourful Lisbon on our port side. We had planned to stay a week, and then thought two weeks would be better, and the cost of 15 days is the same as a month, so we booked in for a month! Yesterday, we walked for seven hours, once dismounting from the 20-minute commuter train into the city. We started with a climb to Campo de Santa Clara to the Saturday Flea Market "Feira da Ladra" where you can find anything from precious jewelry and art to used underwear. We attempted to find a specific cafe filled with modern art dating back to 1915, but after a few side trips through churches and along the cobble-stone streets, we found ourselves at the Sao de Jorge Castle. It's remarkably preserved and occupies the most privileged area of the old medieval/residential neighbourhood. First built by the Moors in the 11th century, it became the home or Royal Palace of Afonso Henriques, conquerer of Lisbon and the first king of Portugal. From the castle (centre picture) we could see the World Cup Football game playing in the large square and made our way down there to participate. Beer and snacks were served and people enjoyed the afternoon like a rock concert. Finally, the weather has changed and summer has arrived! Walking a bit further, we arrived at Time Out Lisbon, a festival of food and drink kiosk with hefty price tags. Packed with tourists -- some rather possessive about their seats -- I collected two glasses of wine and we relaxed on the edge of a long table before walked a few blocks to a cozy home-like restaurant we'd spotted down the street and stuffed ourselves on fabulous foods.
June 19 -- Touring Lisbon & Sintra
Bright and early Monday morning, we hopped on our bikes and rode to the Orient Station, caught a bus to the far side of Lisbon to Jeronimos Monastery to visit the Maritime Museum and learn all about the Portuguese explorers. "Sorry, we're closed on Monday," the security guard told us. We'll go back... Instead, we explored the famous statue to Vasco de Gama (centre picture above) purchasing tickets to take the elevator to the top for a bird's-eye view of the Tagus River, the Belem Tower, 25th de Abril Bridge (looks like the Golden Gate) and a spectacular view of Lisbon. Vasco de Gama, from Sines, was commissioned by the Portuguese king to discover a route to the Orient, since traveling through the Med (in 1497) with your goods at the Arabian Peninsula was not safe. (That is where the Suez Canal is today. In Vasco de Gama's day, they would empty their ships and traverse the land to waiting ships in the Indian Ocean, but the danger was that the goods would be stolen.) Vasco de Gama was the first to find a route from Lisbon to the Orient via the Cape of Good Hope (Africa).
We walked through the park passing the fountain with the coat of arms, heading toward the Pastelis de Belem (bakery) to taste the original Pastel de Nata, but the line up went a block and a quarter long. The monastery Con is pictured in front of (below) is where the pastry was invented in 1837, and the recipe apparently is still a secret, despite it being reinvented everywhere you go in Portugal. We'll try our luck getting in there in a few days.
Bright and early Monday morning, we hopped on our bikes and rode to the Orient Station, caught a bus to the far side of Lisbon to Jeronimos Monastery to visit the Maritime Museum and learn all about the Portuguese explorers. "Sorry, we're closed on Monday," the security guard told us. We'll go back... Instead, we explored the famous statue to Vasco de Gama (centre picture above) purchasing tickets to take the elevator to the top for a bird's-eye view of the Tagus River, the Belem Tower, 25th de Abril Bridge (looks like the Golden Gate) and a spectacular view of Lisbon. Vasco de Gama, from Sines, was commissioned by the Portuguese king to discover a route to the Orient, since traveling through the Med (in 1497) with your goods at the Arabian Peninsula was not safe. (That is where the Suez Canal is today. In Vasco de Gama's day, they would empty their ships and traverse the land to waiting ships in the Indian Ocean, but the danger was that the goods would be stolen.) Vasco de Gama was the first to find a route from Lisbon to the Orient via the Cape of Good Hope (Africa).
We walked through the park passing the fountain with the coat of arms, heading toward the Pastelis de Belem (bakery) to taste the original Pastel de Nata, but the line up went a block and a quarter long. The monastery Con is pictured in front of (below) is where the pastry was invented in 1837, and the recipe apparently is still a secret, despite it being reinvented everywhere you go in Portugal. We'll try our luck getting in there in a few days.
Again, bright and early, we cycled to the Orient station, caught a train to Sintra for 1.30 euros each. Forty minutes later, we arrived at the Sintra train station and purchased a bus round ticket for 6.90 euros each for a hop on; hop off to take us to a number of the sights. We selected three sights: Palacio da Pena; the garden; and the Castelo dos Mouros. We toured Sintra 11 years ago with my brother Doug and wife Merrilee in October and my memory recalls that there were just a handful of people. Today, the ques for the buses, entrance tickets to the sights, and then queuing to view the sights that you've bought tickets to see was somewhat surprising, if not discouraging.
Palacio da Pena can actually be seen from Lisbon, sitting on the second highest point in Sintra. Build in the Middle Ages, it was rebuilt in the early 19th century in the Romanticist style. First built as a monastery, it was hit by lightning in the 1700s, and then shortly after reduced to rubble all except for the chapel from the devastating earthquake of 1755. Over the years it was reconstructed under different royalty and owners adding vaults and Islamic designs creating the beautiful palace today.
Palacio da Pena can actually be seen from Lisbon, sitting on the second highest point in Sintra. Build in the Middle Ages, it was rebuilt in the early 19th century in the Romanticist style. First built as a monastery, it was hit by lightning in the 1700s, and then shortly after reduced to rubble all except for the chapel from the devastating earthquake of 1755. Over the years it was reconstructed under different royalty and owners adding vaults and Islamic designs creating the beautiful palace today.
Exhausted from mostly shuffling through the lineups (see photo on the right) we skipped the garden and headed to the Castle dos Mouros, a short walk through the dense Serra de Sintra forest where enormous pine and beach trees grow, wild flowers, mushrooms, and moss. The song birds were singing up a storm. Entering the que for the castle was easy, since we'd bought our tickets at the first que and walked up up up to the top for a breathtaking view of Sintra, passing the tourists smiling at their iphones for the just-right selfie. (Like us above.) The Castle was built in the 9th century by North African Moors which fell after the Christians conquered Portugal.
June 20th is a day off touring. Our bedroom air conditioning needs our attention, and since I purchased corn flour instead of regular flour (always a risk with a foreign language) I plan to make experimental corn-flour butter cake.
June 25 — For half of our nine-hour sail, “George” as we affectionately called him, joined us in the cockpit. We think the friendly homing pigeon became disoriented from the fog, so decided to ride with us until it cleared. See the white mark on his beak, it’s a magnet and scientists believe they use it to hone in on Earth’s magnetic fields to find their way. We arrived in Nazare, docking in the Club Naval Marina, once voluntarily run by Captain Mike Hadley (as anyone who has docked in Nazare would have known him) but now falling into ruin. He has left, since the offer to volunteer as a consultant for cruisers and the Portuguese authorities in return for free mooring was no longer offered to him. With the World Cup continuing today with Portugal vs Iran and Spain vs Morocco, we will be near a TV screen in between touring. Overcast skies is keeping the Atlantic temperature cool, and ruining our spectacular view from the cliffs. Below: Above the Nazare beach on the cliff Con is on the south side, with the marina further south, and the other beach is on the north side of the cliff. There is where the largest surfed wave was ever recorded, this past November 8th, 2017. For images: website here. For the youtube: here. The blue tile is in the small church on the cliffside where voyagers visited before their journey.
Summer is still slow arriving. In Figuiera do Foz, a city we'd visited before, we docked once again consistently WITH incident! The first time we docked in this marina, I opened the side boat gate, Con turned aiming Big Sky toward the slip, I lost my balance, and fell into the marina cold water. This time, I climbed down to the pier, tied the spring line, Con stepped away from the helm to toss the stern lines, didn't get that far, stubbed his toe, and bled all over the cushions.
The town is beautiful with ivory sand beaches for as far as your eyes can see. Moving further north, we arrived in the Douro Marina in Porto, slightly up the river. On our first day, we biked to the Churchill Port winery sampling the newer-styled, less sweet port, and left with our wallets lighter.
World Cup Football has been occupying many of our evenings and some afternoons as we scoop TV time in local bars. Sadly Portugal is out, and yesterday Spain lost to Russia.
Rain fell like a river on the boat last night. With our winter house still zipped up around our cockpit, we manage to keep the area dry. With so much rain, we delayed our departure to Viana do Castelo for another day.
Below: Con's toe, and the other two photos are from the old town in Porto. We biked there from the marina. Con is standing in the spot where 11 years ago we sat for lunch and instead witnessed chaos like we'd never seen.
Porto was filled with tourists, so many that it was hard to see the beauty of the town from people. The marina has a complimentary shuttle to El Ingles Cortez, so we took it, and walked another block for one of the best sushi meals, walked back to El Ingles Cortez and shuttled back to the boat.
The town is beautiful with ivory sand beaches for as far as your eyes can see. Moving further north, we arrived in the Douro Marina in Porto, slightly up the river. On our first day, we biked to the Churchill Port winery sampling the newer-styled, less sweet port, and left with our wallets lighter.
World Cup Football has been occupying many of our evenings and some afternoons as we scoop TV time in local bars. Sadly Portugal is out, and yesterday Spain lost to Russia.
Rain fell like a river on the boat last night. With our winter house still zipped up around our cockpit, we manage to keep the area dry. With so much rain, we delayed our departure to Viana do Castelo for another day.
Below: Con's toe, and the other two photos are from the old town in Porto. We biked there from the marina. Con is standing in the spot where 11 years ago we sat for lunch and instead witnessed chaos like we'd never seen.
Porto was filled with tourists, so many that it was hard to see the beauty of the town from people. The marina has a complimentary shuttle to El Ingles Cortez, so we took it, and walked another block for one of the best sushi meals, walked back to El Ingles Cortez and shuttled back to the boat.
July 5 -- We've entered the Spanish Rias in the Galician region of Northern Spain with our first stop in the town of Baiona, stopping for two days in Spain's oldest yacht club, Monte Real Club de Yates de Baiona, founded in 1964. It's pristine area with two ivory-sand coloured beaches on either side, and a castle directly behind it. Our day of sight seeing turned into a walk to the hospital to have a doctor look at Con's big toe which is now getting quite swollen and even nastier looking than the picture above taken the day after the accident. Unfortunately, as Canadian's we don't have access to a doctor in the hospital, but can go to a private clinic too far for walking, so we stopped in a pharmacy to pick up a cleaning solution and anti-biotic ointment.
We met a delightful Irish sailing couple, Jill and Dan in Porto and met up with them in Baiona enjoying tapas last night. They know the Rias very well and shared tips for the best places to go.
Below: Sue from Noonsite and her two adorable kids joined us aboard for the day.
We met a delightful Irish sailing couple, Jill and Dan in Porto and met up with them in Baiona enjoying tapas last night. They know the Rias very well and shared tips for the best places to go.
Below: Sue from Noonsite and her two adorable kids joined us aboard for the day.
July 10 -- Vigo, a vibrant city of less than 300,000 people but full of spirit and culture, located in the SW corner of Galicia (one of Europe's rainiest areas) explaining its beautiful green trees, flowers, and fog. The marina hugs the cities water edge and wrapping around the marina is an enormous shaded park area and promenade with art statues scattered here and there. Pleasant little cafe’s and bars line the park separating it from the city where three-story Spanish architecturally designed buildings and cobble-stone streets fold around. It’s cooler (weather wise) and each morning we wake to fog, which seems to burn off by mid morning. Our permit should arrive any day meaning we will be able to sail around the Rias (the archipelago of islands) and with the permit, we will be able to request locations and dates to drop anchor to swim and camp out over night. The past four days in Vigo, a Food Fest was taking place all around the marina with blues, rock, and reggae bands playing, water polo and kayak competitions going on from morning till midnight. Once it ends, you could hear a pin drop in the marina.
July 18 -- In the Rias!
This is a spectacular location to spend the summer sailing, there are very few foreigners, the Rias are well protected, there are dolphins and wild life everywhere, tapas are plenty, people are friendly... The only draw back is if you're seeking hot weather, this isn't the place. Temperatures were slow to warm, rising to high 20s just the other day, but most days we're shrouded in fog. However, when the sun shows itself, it's glorious. With Vigo as home base, we've set off with our anchoring permits spending a night in the National Park areas enjoying the solitude and wildlife, then moving to the mainland beach areas, and today in the Combarra Marina east of the Ria de Pontevedra. Above, you can see the mountains of farmed mussels the people load onto the boats with excavators and back hoes; the sparsely populated ivory coloured beaches; beautiful waters; and our favourite visitors (the dolphins). Wind blew last night gusting to mid 20s while we slept at anchor. By day, we shared the anchorage with a few boats, but by night, we were the only ones. We walked into the old fishing village and enjoyed sea food and wine for lunch. I ordered Sargo fish al a plancha (grilled) and Con had the razor shellfish and clams. Delicious! Combarro is maybe Galicia's most beautiful village and strolling down the stone street that date back to the 1700s leaves you with a sense that time has stood still. Below, you can see the green algae where the tide has gone out (it's returing at 3:30 pm). The green peppers called Spanish pimientos de Padron are delicious. They say one in 10 is hot, but so far, (two plates worth of experience) every one is deliciously dulce (sweet), prepared over a hot grill for just 3 minutes and served drizzles with olive oil and coarse sea salt.
This is a spectacular location to spend the summer sailing, there are very few foreigners, the Rias are well protected, there are dolphins and wild life everywhere, tapas are plenty, people are friendly... The only draw back is if you're seeking hot weather, this isn't the place. Temperatures were slow to warm, rising to high 20s just the other day, but most days we're shrouded in fog. However, when the sun shows itself, it's glorious. With Vigo as home base, we've set off with our anchoring permits spending a night in the National Park areas enjoying the solitude and wildlife, then moving to the mainland beach areas, and today in the Combarra Marina east of the Ria de Pontevedra. Above, you can see the mountains of farmed mussels the people load onto the boats with excavators and back hoes; the sparsely populated ivory coloured beaches; beautiful waters; and our favourite visitors (the dolphins). Wind blew last night gusting to mid 20s while we slept at anchor. By day, we shared the anchorage with a few boats, but by night, we were the only ones. We walked into the old fishing village and enjoyed sea food and wine for lunch. I ordered Sargo fish al a plancha (grilled) and Con had the razor shellfish and clams. Delicious! Combarro is maybe Galicia's most beautiful village and strolling down the stone street that date back to the 1700s leaves you with a sense that time has stood still. Below, you can see the green algae where the tide has gone out (it's returing at 3:30 pm). The green peppers called Spanish pimientos de Padron are delicious. They say one in 10 is hot, but so far, (two plates worth of experience) every one is deliciously dulce (sweet), prepared over a hot grill for just 3 minutes and served drizzles with olive oil and coarse sea salt.
July 21 -- We returned to Vigo following a few more days in the Rias. The natural barrier of protected islands are unique in that they tame the Atlantic making the inlets a boater's paradise. The Rias are made up of three big islands and so far, we've visited two of them. The waters are crystal clear and filled to the brim with dolphins. They must be so used to people that they don't bother to socialize at our bow, they seem to spend their time eating. They're fat and healthy looking. Our last stop was Cambarro, a pretty town on the Galacian mainland. The old fishing village dates back to the 1700s and has been preserved with outdoor ovens along the waterfront where we participated in a delicious meal (shellfish of every kind for Con, and a salgo. Below: Cranes are unloading the mussels gathered from one of their many farmed areas. Seagulls have the life!
July 24 -- Porto do Caraminal
Setting off from Vigo we planned to visit Ria de Arousa, located two Rias north from Vigo. Our first night, we anchored in the gorgeous Barre Beach (the naturalist's beach) for the night, setting off midday for Ria de Arousa. Half way and into the open Atlantic, the waves continued to build as did the wind. A predicted 20 knots was now a steady 30+. We detoured into Ria del Aldan dropping anchor in six meters tucked behind the mussel farms. The wind continued for hours, with white caps behind us. Con spotted a two guys appearing to be in distress on a paddle board. One guy hanging on the back and the other kneeling with his oar. The guy on the back let go and began swimming to shore. I kept my binoculars focused on both. The paddle boarder was losing his battle with the wind moving further and further from shore and toward the open Atlantic. The swimmer was nearing shore. Con called the position on the VHF to which Search and Rescue responded with "Thanks." The boarder caught one of the mussel rafts and climbed up so an immediate rescue from Big Sky or Little Sky was no longer a consideration. A speed boat appeared and collected him, delivering him and his board to shore. Below: the first photos shows the distance the guy drifted (the mussel raft is barely visible) and the Zodiac collected him.
Setting off from Vigo we planned to visit Ria de Arousa, located two Rias north from Vigo. Our first night, we anchored in the gorgeous Barre Beach (the naturalist's beach) for the night, setting off midday for Ria de Arousa. Half way and into the open Atlantic, the waves continued to build as did the wind. A predicted 20 knots was now a steady 30+. We detoured into Ria del Aldan dropping anchor in six meters tucked behind the mussel farms. The wind continued for hours, with white caps behind us. Con spotted a two guys appearing to be in distress on a paddle board. One guy hanging on the back and the other kneeling with his oar. The guy on the back let go and began swimming to shore. I kept my binoculars focused on both. The paddle boarder was losing his battle with the wind moving further and further from shore and toward the open Atlantic. The swimmer was nearing shore. Con called the position on the VHF to which Search and Rescue responded with "Thanks." The boarder caught one of the mussel rafts and climbed up so an immediate rescue from Big Sky or Little Sky was no longer a consideration. A speed boat appeared and collected him, delivering him and his board to shore. Below: the first photos shows the distance the guy drifted (the mussel raft is barely visible) and the Zodiac collected him.
July 25 -- Ferry Bursts into Flames
Yesterday, we sailed passed the south end of Ria Arousa on our way to Porto do Caraminal just before the ferry in the story attached bursts into flames upon collision with another craft. More details are not known. Attached
Yesterday, we sailed passed the south end of Ria Arousa on our way to Porto do Caraminal just before the ferry in the story attached bursts into flames upon collision with another craft. More details are not known. Attached
August 6 -- Spain's Southern Temperatures Warms the North
The Rias are similar to Vancouver Island with green hillsides and cool moist weather, never too hot and cooling at night. With Southern Spain melting under the hottest temperatures on record, as high as 48 degrees in some places, and with a southern wind, the air temperature warmed up to a yummy 38 degrees this week. We dropped anchor in a few different anchorages near Vigo and cooled down in the delicious 20 degree waters. Our last anchorage was at Barre Beach, a naturalists beach, where from the moment we wake up (about 7:30) until well passed our bedtime people parade up and down the beach -- naked. It's not a new concept, but it's sure popular here. Our internet ran out this morning, so we pulled up anchor and returned to Vigo (about an hour's sail). We left just as the morning fog was lifting. Con picked up medication at the pharmacy (a refill from a Canadian prescription) for a fraction of the cost and no prescription needed. The problem for us in Canada is that Blue Cross will only fill a prescription for a three-month supply which is never enough.
The Rias are similar to Vancouver Island with green hillsides and cool moist weather, never too hot and cooling at night. With Southern Spain melting under the hottest temperatures on record, as high as 48 degrees in some places, and with a southern wind, the air temperature warmed up to a yummy 38 degrees this week. We dropped anchor in a few different anchorages near Vigo and cooled down in the delicious 20 degree waters. Our last anchorage was at Barre Beach, a naturalists beach, where from the moment we wake up (about 7:30) until well passed our bedtime people parade up and down the beach -- naked. It's not a new concept, but it's sure popular here. Our internet ran out this morning, so we pulled up anchor and returned to Vigo (about an hour's sail). We left just as the morning fog was lifting. Con picked up medication at the pharmacy (a refill from a Canadian prescription) for a fraction of the cost and no prescription needed. The problem for us in Canada is that Blue Cross will only fill a prescription for a three-month supply which is never enough.
O Marisquino BMX Competition in Vigo
August 12 -- It's taken a month to build the structures needed for this event, one of the largest events in Vigo, absolutely free for everyone. People have arrived from all over the world to participate in the various competition and it's all taking place around the large marina harbor. The competition event includes BMX bike tricks, aerials, ballet; dirt motorcycle tricks; skateboard; break dancing; graffiti; BMX race through the town involving hills, stairs, and temporary ramps. The place is pulsing with energy, and tonight the bands will begin. Once they checked the sound system Thursday, we untied and motored to the beautiful Barre Beach and dropped anchor always with the plan to return for the finals. It's fantastic!
August 12 -- It's taken a month to build the structures needed for this event, one of the largest events in Vigo, absolutely free for everyone. People have arrived from all over the world to participate in the various competition and it's all taking place around the large marina harbor. The competition event includes BMX bike tricks, aerials, ballet; dirt motorcycle tricks; skateboard; break dancing; graffiti; BMX race through the town involving hills, stairs, and temporary ramps. The place is pulsing with energy, and tonight the bands will begin. Once they checked the sound system Thursday, we untied and motored to the beautiful Barre Beach and dropped anchor always with the plan to return for the finals. It's fantastic!
Vigo Festival Disaster
August 13 -- The platform collapsed just after midnight last night during low tide sending hundreds of concert goers into the ocean and injuring more than 300 people, 5 seriously. People fell on top of people and boards fell on top and under everyone. The stage is just left of the picture.
Con and I were aboard Big Sky, 100 meters from the concert and when the rain began falling lightly last night, we opted out of going. At midnight, I went out to close the window tighter and saw hordes of people jumping up and down in time to the rap music. I smiled realizing everyone was having such a great time. I settled in bed beside sleeping Con and then heard a loud scream from the crowd. I wondered who had stepped onto the stage giving everybody such a thrill. I didn't know then that it marked the beginning of the 5 seconds that took down the boardwalk. The music stopped (early I thought) and drifted off to sleep hearing a siren in the distance. Con spotted the news online early this morning opened the gate (to stand where he did to take the photo). There was no exit to land for us. The two police officers hustled as close as they could get to him shouting, "GO! NO PHOTOS!" By 9 am, David in the marina office had efficiently relocated us to the newer part of the marina where access on and off is from the other side of the marina.
August 13 -- The platform collapsed just after midnight last night during low tide sending hundreds of concert goers into the ocean and injuring more than 300 people, 5 seriously. People fell on top of people and boards fell on top and under everyone. The stage is just left of the picture.
Con and I were aboard Big Sky, 100 meters from the concert and when the rain began falling lightly last night, we opted out of going. At midnight, I went out to close the window tighter and saw hordes of people jumping up and down in time to the rap music. I smiled realizing everyone was having such a great time. I settled in bed beside sleeping Con and then heard a loud scream from the crowd. I wondered who had stepped onto the stage giving everybody such a thrill. I didn't know then that it marked the beginning of the 5 seconds that took down the boardwalk. The music stopped (early I thought) and drifted off to sleep hearing a siren in the distance. Con spotted the news online early this morning opened the gate (to stand where he did to take the photo). There was no exit to land for us. The two police officers hustled as close as they could get to him shouting, "GO! NO PHOTOS!" By 9 am, David in the marina office had efficiently relocated us to the newer part of the marina where access on and off is from the other side of the marina.
Northern Portugal Road Trip
August 18 -- On our way south from the Rias by car to collect Nick, Bryant, and Dex who will join us aboard for 10 days, Con and I made a road trip through the Portuguese Douro Valley. Our first stop was the Medieval town of Chaves, Portugal where the hottest natural springs in Europe reside. We booked into the spa not sure what to expect. Sign in took a half hour, (but could have been longer, except for the fact that we'd been to the spa earlier in the day and took a number to be served learning that you must return at 3:30 pm). We walked in at 3:28 to a group of people waiting with their tickets. (We were the first called, using our number from earlier in the day.) After the lengthy sign in, we needed to have a medical check which included blood pressure tests. We passed, and were led to a room where we needed to put our feet (shoes on) in plastic, go to the locker room, wear specific shoes and head cover, and then led to our private pool for 30 minutes. It had been cooled to a comfortable temperature, actually coolish. We had to laugh at how absurd it all was, especially for 20 euro! Later, we enjoyed the Medieval parade and excellent barbecue meal of pig ribs, sausages... and my water came in a plastic bottle and had to be served to me in a brown paper bag covering (because it wasn't medieval).
Fires warnings alerts have been signaling "caution" for our time in the Vila Real area. We checked into the Vintage House Hotel, in Pinhao. It's a heritage property converted from an old wine lodge owned since the 19th century by a distinguished Port family, now a gorgeous hotel in the heart of the wine and port region of northern Portugal. This is Europe's oldest and most beautiful wine region, now a World Heritage site. Pinhao region is where the Douro and Pinhao River Valley meets. While enjoying the 30 degree weather in the late afternoon at the pool, two Canadair planes flew overhead and back a number of times scooping water from the river for fires burning nearby. Light wind blew smoke away from us. Dinner in the Vintage House was five star!
August 18 -- On our way south from the Rias by car to collect Nick, Bryant, and Dex who will join us aboard for 10 days, Con and I made a road trip through the Portuguese Douro Valley. Our first stop was the Medieval town of Chaves, Portugal where the hottest natural springs in Europe reside. We booked into the spa not sure what to expect. Sign in took a half hour, (but could have been longer, except for the fact that we'd been to the spa earlier in the day and took a number to be served learning that you must return at 3:30 pm). We walked in at 3:28 to a group of people waiting with their tickets. (We were the first called, using our number from earlier in the day.) After the lengthy sign in, we needed to have a medical check which included blood pressure tests. We passed, and were led to a room where we needed to put our feet (shoes on) in plastic, go to the locker room, wear specific shoes and head cover, and then led to our private pool for 30 minutes. It had been cooled to a comfortable temperature, actually coolish. We had to laugh at how absurd it all was, especially for 20 euro! Later, we enjoyed the Medieval parade and excellent barbecue meal of pig ribs, sausages... and my water came in a plastic bottle and had to be served to me in a brown paper bag covering (because it wasn't medieval).
Fires warnings alerts have been signaling "caution" for our time in the Vila Real area. We checked into the Vintage House Hotel, in Pinhao. It's a heritage property converted from an old wine lodge owned since the 19th century by a distinguished Port family, now a gorgeous hotel in the heart of the wine and port region of northern Portugal. This is Europe's oldest and most beautiful wine region, now a World Heritage site. Pinhao region is where the Douro and Pinhao River Valley meets. While enjoying the 30 degree weather in the late afternoon at the pool, two Canadair planes flew overhead and back a number of times scooping water from the river for fires burning nearby. Light wind blew smoke away from us. Dinner in the Vintage House was five star!
August 23 -- Our Canadian family is aboard for 10 days (Nick, Bryant, and Dex). Using the Vigo Marina as home base, we roamed through the Rias, stopping at small towns, anchoring to swim in the cold waters, and having some fantastic sailing opportunities. Temperatures by day are warm and inviting, cooling just enough for perfect sleeping temperatures. The festival of the Sea was taking place in Combarro and an enormous stage was prepared for the public to enjoy the entertainment. The international singer Amaia Montero and her band performed. We were hooked on her music. Leaving Combarro, a thick fog moved in and surrounded us. Con was at the helm, I was inside getting a fix on the radar, Nick and Bryant at the bow doing lookout, and Dex below enjoying YouTube, a Spanish Destroyer passed us at high speed. We didn't spot him until he was meters from us, about the same time as the radar picked up the blob! I'd spot marks on the radar in our path, warned Con, and called to Nick and Bryant to maintain keen sight. Sure enough, small fishing boats were spotted left and right. An enormous freighter rumbled passed us and other than on the radar, we couldn't see it until it was within less than 100 meters. We tied on in Baiona, staying in the cute town for a few days before setting off again for Vigo. Rain arrived on Tuesday, the day scheduled for Compestello de Santiago, so instead, we hiked up to O Castel, a beautiful panoramic lookout point in Vigo with majestic old trees and manicured park areas. Dex did remarkably well with his healing sprained ankle (injured a few weeks before arriving aboard).
August 30 -- On our last day together, we set off for a white silky-sand beach 40 minutes from Vigo, dropped anchor and took Little Sky to the sand for a full day at the beach. Wind picked up to 20-30 knots and we set sail back to Vigo, passing a sailing regatta of smaller sailboats, some attempting to fly their spinnakers. We counted a few of them turtling in the Ria (capsizing). They're made to right themselves again. Con rented a car to drive our family back to Porto for their flight home. We left an hour earlier than necessary, mistakenly turning the clock forward instead of backward for the time change (Spain to Portugal). In a few weeks, Con and I will make our way south for the winter.
A couple of good news observations about Spain. We left our camera in a grocery store shopping cart. Con walked back asking if anyone turned it in, and they said, "No, and in Spain, likely they won't." A few weeks later, we shopped in the store, and a woman chased us down by a block saying, "Senior, senior tu camera..." Someone turned it in and they held it for weeks in their office. Con returned the rental car saying, "Please don't credit my Canadian Visa (when holding payment) because I was charged 7 euro equivalent last time." When the invoice was presented, the woman took 7 euro off our bill (settling the bill from the time before!). When the promenade collapsed outside the security gate in Vigo, and chaos surrounded the town, the marina seemed to put us as a top priority and relocated us nearly moments after we woke to discover the disaster. When we chatted with the dolphins to visit us at the bow when Dex, Nick and Bryant were aboard, they came, and not only that, they put on a show leaping and talking with us at the bow. People are courteous, stopping for pedestrians, patient with lost tourists driving rental cars, extremely generous in the tapas bars... It's so easy to criticize things in life and it's nice to observe the good in people.
September 7 -- Grandson Dex turns 10 today!
While at anchor a few weeks ago, Con noticed one battery was registering too hot. We motored to Moana across the Ria from Vigo and a professional came aboard and upon testing we learned they're all performing between 39-50 percent. Four new batteries have now been ordered and should aboard Monday.
I've screwed up my back lifting the dinghy last week, leaving me boat-bound for a few days, but it's an opportunity to check out the Spanish National Championship Catamaran Races happening this weekend in Vigo.
If the two photos of the collapsed boardwalk could talk, what stories would they tell. The boardwalk is still cordoned off, and has been since the disaster last month at the International BMX Bike Show that sent 330+ concert goers to the hospital. One photo captures a red sweatshirt inside crumbled concrete, rebar, and wooden remains, and a crutch is left above. The other captures a lone boot sandwiched in the boards. One can only imagine how many cell phones found their watery grave below.
While at anchor a few weeks ago, Con noticed one battery was registering too hot. We motored to Moana across the Ria from Vigo and a professional came aboard and upon testing we learned they're all performing between 39-50 percent. Four new batteries have now been ordered and should aboard Monday.
I've screwed up my back lifting the dinghy last week, leaving me boat-bound for a few days, but it's an opportunity to check out the Spanish National Championship Catamaran Races happening this weekend in Vigo.
If the two photos of the collapsed boardwalk could talk, what stories would they tell. The boardwalk is still cordoned off, and has been since the disaster last month at the International BMX Bike Show that sent 330+ concert goers to the hospital. One photo captures a red sweatshirt inside crumbled concrete, rebar, and wooden remains, and a crutch is left above. The other captures a lone boot sandwiched in the boards. One can only imagine how many cell phones found their watery grave below.
Con decadently consumed two kilos of home-prepared mussels (1.95 per kilos) and a healthy-sized glass of white wine; I had soup since I’m deathly allergic to shellfish. Right after, we walked to the Tall Ship docked near us, the Sorlandet, the world’s oldest and most authentic fully-rigged ship still in active service. It was built in 1927, and operates as a non-profit, with 72 trainees (60 on this trip) sailing various locations in the world. This trip will be a figure 8, sailing from Norway to Northern Spain, Canary Islands, Brazil, South Africa, Caribbean, USA, and back to Norway.
Below: a look through the fog from our anchorage and a look behind leaving Barre Beach.
Below: a look through the fog from our anchorage and a look behind leaving Barre Beach.
September 23 -- With emotion, we extracted ourselves from Real Club Nautico Vigo, our summer home port since July. We'll head across the water to Cangas to fill up our diesel tanks, since it's about a 10 euro cent savings, and then make our way to a few favourite anchorages waiting for the right conditions to sail south down the Atlantic to Lagos, Portugal for the winter.
Yesterday, the 5K swimming race took place under beautiful weather conditions, pictures below. The race had been postponed last week due to fog.
Yesterday, the 5K swimming race took place under beautiful weather conditions, pictures below. The race had been postponed last week due to fog.
September 27
We checked out of Vigo on the 23rd and headed to our favourite beach (Barre) to enjoy the fabulous summer weather the Rias are experiencing. Waking to a calm sea following a semi-rough night from strong north winds, we sat in the comfy cockpit as a film crew set up opposite us. As the morning progressed, we saw two actors and it didn’t take long to figured out that it was a provocative film, since there was lots of skin and sex. The next day was another beautiful warm-weather, blue-sky day. About mid-morning, a man and his photographer set up opposite us. In the first set of photos the man wore jeans, then shorts, then underwear (both blue ones and red ones), and then nothing, but then it got interesting as the man worked hard with the subject of the photos in between shots, if you know what I mean. By mid-day, yesterday’s film crew returned and discussion between the photographer and the film crew took place with the film crew moving to a different part of the beach (still opposite Big Sky) and shot scenes of girl on girl action.
We moved on to Aldan, anchoring in the next Ria. The next morning, we got underway to Puerto de Bueu planning to fill up our near-empty diesel tanks. Arriving during siesta, we anchored off and walked over late afternoon to learn the price: 1.32 per litre. We returned in the morning, cueing up behind two big fishing boats, and then a third fishing boat arrived. Con motioned him ahead of us. A moment later, one of the guys held up a bag of fish as a thank you. I graciously thanked him in Spanish, but declined since I told him, I don’t like cleaning them, laughing at myself. A bit later, still waiting, the fishing guy called us over again. Con backed up, I reached out with the boat hook and pulled a heavy bag aboard, peeking in to see dozens of fish cleaned and gutted.
The irony of the day was that once we tied up ready for our turn, I told the proprietor we needed 1,300 litres, he was sorry to tell us he only had 800. He then called Portonovo across the Ria and told us they’d have enough. Their price: 1.33 per litre. It’s a short hop across the water and we were rewarded with dolphins leaping and twisting midair all around us.
Below: Puerto de Bueu at low tide and at anchor. The fishing guys that thanked us with the fish.
We checked out of Vigo on the 23rd and headed to our favourite beach (Barre) to enjoy the fabulous summer weather the Rias are experiencing. Waking to a calm sea following a semi-rough night from strong north winds, we sat in the comfy cockpit as a film crew set up opposite us. As the morning progressed, we saw two actors and it didn’t take long to figured out that it was a provocative film, since there was lots of skin and sex. The next day was another beautiful warm-weather, blue-sky day. About mid-morning, a man and his photographer set up opposite us. In the first set of photos the man wore jeans, then shorts, then underwear (both blue ones and red ones), and then nothing, but then it got interesting as the man worked hard with the subject of the photos in between shots, if you know what I mean. By mid-day, yesterday’s film crew returned and discussion between the photographer and the film crew took place with the film crew moving to a different part of the beach (still opposite Big Sky) and shot scenes of girl on girl action.
We moved on to Aldan, anchoring in the next Ria. The next morning, we got underway to Puerto de Bueu planning to fill up our near-empty diesel tanks. Arriving during siesta, we anchored off and walked over late afternoon to learn the price: 1.32 per litre. We returned in the morning, cueing up behind two big fishing boats, and then a third fishing boat arrived. Con motioned him ahead of us. A moment later, one of the guys held up a bag of fish as a thank you. I graciously thanked him in Spanish, but declined since I told him, I don’t like cleaning them, laughing at myself. A bit later, still waiting, the fishing guy called us over again. Con backed up, I reached out with the boat hook and pulled a heavy bag aboard, peeking in to see dozens of fish cleaned and gutted.
The irony of the day was that once we tied up ready for our turn, I told the proprietor we needed 1,300 litres, he was sorry to tell us he only had 800. He then called Portonovo across the Ria and told us they’d have enough. Their price: 1.33 per litre. It’s a short hop across the water and we were rewarded with dolphins leaping and twisting midair all around us.
Below: Puerto de Bueu at low tide and at anchor. The fishing guys that thanked us with the fish.
While waiting for the fog to lift, we sailed north into the next Ria (fog was south) and visited Sanxenxo (Con pictured at the shore). Returning to Barre Beach, the fog made a circle around us, leaving Barre Beach sunny, so we rowed to shore and walked the fabulous beach. It's 1.4 KM from one end to the other, so we aim for 12 KM each day. When we returned to the boat, four officers were waiting for us. Two came aboard and approved the photo Con took. They took our details and bid us a good day. Our neighbours at anchor left their dinghy too low on the beach, high tide rolled in and their dinghy was afloat. Con spotted it while we were chatting with Lindsey on my iPad, and set off (rowing) to rescue it. It was full of water, making it a tough tow.
October 4 -- Happy Birthday Courtney!
The fog lifted in Barre Beach after a few days at anchor, so we said farewell to the Spanish Rias sailing as far as Leixoes, north of Porto for our first day. It was a mistake to go into Leixoes! We entered the big harbor and nearly fell over by the industrial smells, nearly abandoning our stay there, but tired and hungry, we carried on and called the marina on the VHF. They responded immediately stating "One moment Big Sky" and we never heard from them again. They locked up the office and left. We tied at the visitors berth shooing away hundreds of birds. The docks are held together by straps and ropes. The winds arrived in the night bashing us badly against the pier. Early the next morning we untied and motored into 30 - 50 knot winds. Thirty minutes further south, we entered the Duoro Marina just up the river from Porto and were helped into a comfortable place for the night. Con wrote to Leixoes to let them know we couldn't pay since the office wasn't opened. They said, "Send 32 euro." Settled in Douro Marina, situated in the pretty fishing village of Afurada de Baixo, women were washing clothes in a public wash house and hanging them outside communally. The town is delightfully Portuguese with the tiled houses. Early the next morning, left for Figueira do Foz, a nine-hour day on the water. It started out blustery, ending with a calm flat sea.
The fog lifted in Barre Beach after a few days at anchor, so we said farewell to the Spanish Rias sailing as far as Leixoes, north of Porto for our first day. It was a mistake to go into Leixoes! We entered the big harbor and nearly fell over by the industrial smells, nearly abandoning our stay there, but tired and hungry, we carried on and called the marina on the VHF. They responded immediately stating "One moment Big Sky" and we never heard from them again. They locked up the office and left. We tied at the visitors berth shooing away hundreds of birds. The docks are held together by straps and ropes. The winds arrived in the night bashing us badly against the pier. Early the next morning we untied and motored into 30 - 50 knot winds. Thirty minutes further south, we entered the Duoro Marina just up the river from Porto and were helped into a comfortable place for the night. Con wrote to Leixoes to let them know we couldn't pay since the office wasn't opened. They said, "Send 32 euro." Settled in Douro Marina, situated in the pretty fishing village of Afurada de Baixo, women were washing clothes in a public wash house and hanging them outside communally. The town is delightfully Portuguese with the tiled houses. Early the next morning, left for Figueira do Foz, a nine-hour day on the water. It started out blustery, ending with a calm flat sea.
The Short-Beaked Common Dolphins visited us in the morning, during our motor from Figueira do Foz to Peniche, playing for a long time and returning a few times. The ocean was beautiful, flat, and blue (you can see in the videos below). Early afternoon, two enormous Bottlenose Dolphins visited us, and one guy was having a great time rising just under the bow spit to spray me (and the camera) then rolling over to look at my reaction, followed by his chatty squeak, squeak, squeak language. At times (following the spray) he'd open his mouth showing his teeth and snap his jaws. To me, it appeared he was laughing. The Bottlenose Dolphins demonstrate intelligence (including emotional intelligence) at levels humans speculate to be second to human intelligence, but that's measured by human calculations. They have many more skills that we don't understand. They've been known to help fishermen by driving fish into their nets and eating the fish that escape. They have been known to hybridize (breed with other dolphin species) both in the wild and in captivity. They live 40 years, females 10 years longer and some as old as 60. They can jump 6 meters, that's 20 feet in the air and use their jumps to communicate with one another. They use their squeak sounds as sonar, sending a burst through the water to an object and using their ears (located behind their eyes) they listen for the bounce back. They can use this same skill to produce a echoic image (sound image) of the object.
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October 7 -- Sintra and Cascais Fire
We held off on an early departure from Peniche because of pea-soup thick fog. Like a breathing entity it would lift and return. By 11 am, we turned on the RADAR and set off. The fog remained for half our journey to Cascais (Lisbon) lifting as we sailed passed Sintra viewing the spectacular Arabic-influenced castle high above under blue skies. We rounded the tip of Lisbon and dropped anchor in calm waters outside the Cascais marina, but couldn't leave the anchorage fast enough the next morning after a rough rolly night. Once we tied in the Sines Marina (pronounced Cinche) later that day (Oct. 6) we learned that Sintra and Cascais was on fire.
We held off on an early departure from Peniche because of pea-soup thick fog. Like a breathing entity it would lift and return. By 11 am, we turned on the RADAR and set off. The fog remained for half our journey to Cascais (Lisbon) lifting as we sailed passed Sintra viewing the spectacular Arabic-influenced castle high above under blue skies. We rounded the tip of Lisbon and dropped anchor in calm waters outside the Cascais marina, but couldn't leave the anchorage fast enough the next morning after a rough rolly night. Once we tied in the Sines Marina (pronounced Cinche) later that day (Oct. 6) we learned that Sintra and Cascais was on fire.
Sintra and Cascais Fire: 754 firefighters have been battling the fire on the south side of Sintra and into Cascais throughout the night. It started at 11 pm forcing evacuations of five villages. Strong winds with gusts to 100 KPM were complicating the firefighting efforts. Sintra is one of Portugal's key tourist sights, and a UNESCO heritage site. By 3 pm yesterday, the fire was declared "far from under control" due to the winds. Photo: Rueters
October 12 -- Settling for the Winter
Above are photos of our sail into Lagos, October 8th, just around the south west corner of Portugal. We learned once checking into Lagos that our reservation was for a slip too small for Big Sky and we were only able to tie onto the pier to our middle cleat. The office kindly found us another slip, however not available until the 15th. After a night, we left for Portimao, an hour east, for annual engine maintenance. Edwardo's shop did great work in 2013 and once again, we were pleased. Now completed, we'll head back to Lagos (two days before our slip is ready), to secure Big Sky before the hurricane system that is making its way to Portugal's south west coast corner hits landfall. It's expected Saturday night. As of Friday morning, it changed course aiming for Lisbon. (Lagos is where the number "4" is shown.)
Above are photos of our sail into Lagos, October 8th, just around the south west corner of Portugal. We learned once checking into Lagos that our reservation was for a slip too small for Big Sky and we were only able to tie onto the pier to our middle cleat. The office kindly found us another slip, however not available until the 15th. After a night, we left for Portimao, an hour east, for annual engine maintenance. Edwardo's shop did great work in 2013 and once again, we were pleased. Now completed, we'll head back to Lagos (two days before our slip is ready), to secure Big Sky before the hurricane system that is making its way to Portugal's south west coast corner hits landfall. It's expected Saturday night. As of Friday morning, it changed course aiming for Lisbon. (Lagos is where the number "4" is shown.)
December 16 — Some boats in the marina have been decorated for Christmas. It seems relatively quiet, likely because we’re moored on the “O” pontoon, affectionately called, “Siberia”. Big Sky is too big for the pontoons where most of the cruisers are located. Back just two days from our six weeks in North America, we’ve taken advantage of the mild weather biking and walking. Today, we took in the Christmas Bazaar, where locals displayed their home crafts and baking, and the dog adoption organization showcased about a dozen adult and puppy dogs for adoption. The adoption folks had desperate pleading looks on their faces as we passed.
Below: our Christmas decoration contribution to the marina; a GIF taken in the main square with a fake snow frame.
Below: our Christmas decoration contribution to the marina; a GIF taken in the main square with a fake snow frame.
December 22 — Yesterday, while Lindsey and I were chatting on Duo, Kate (4) and Amy (2) were busy with crafts. Kate, preparing a card of stickers for Santa, arriving in four days was transforming her small blue table into a shrine for Santa. In a grown up voice she asked, “What is Santa’s favourite colour.”
Lindsey stopped mid sentence to respond, “probably red,” and carried on chatting with me.
“I’m going to stay up to see Santa,” Kate added casually putting the red sticker on the card.
Lindsey stopped her conversation with me again, “That’s not possible, he’s too magic.” Lindsey, with her phone camera on Kate carried on chatting with me. I could see Kate standing back to inspect her work and saying softly, “I’m going to hide on the stairs to watch him.”
Lindsey stopped talking to me directing her attention to Kate, “In my whole life I’ve never seen Santa.”
Kate added casually, “I’ll wake you.”
Lindsey stopped mid sentence to respond, “probably red,” and carried on chatting with me.
“I’m going to stay up to see Santa,” Kate added casually putting the red sticker on the card.
Lindsey stopped her conversation with me again, “That’s not possible, he’s too magic.” Lindsey, with her phone camera on Kate carried on chatting with me. I could see Kate standing back to inspect her work and saying softly, “I’m going to hide on the stairs to watch him.”
Lindsey stopped talking to me directing her attention to Kate, “In my whole life I’ve never seen Santa.”
Kate added casually, “I’ll wake you.”
