Pictured above: The spectacular terraced Pamukkale thermal pools in Turkey.
2011 Diaries
This was an extraordinary year of fantastic adventures by sea and land. Leaving Greece we sailed to the Bosporus into the Black Sea, along Northern Turkey’s coast, then up to Romania, entered the Danube River and sailed 100 NM to the overhead wires and then back into the Black Sea to Bulgaria and then into the Mediterranean again, ending our sailing year in Kos Greece. By land, it was a sensational walk through our childhood Bible stories. We flew into Aleppo December 2010 and toured the country from one end to the other, just one month before rebel forces took hold. We taxied to Jordan, rented a car to drive the King’s Highway, walked across the border to Israel, and then flew to Dusseldorf for the Boat Show, and while moored near Istanbul, we rented a car with Doug & Merrilee and toured Turkey's greatest sites: Ephesis, Cappadocia, and Pamakkule (pictured above) then back to Greece to Big Sky. In the spring, we flew back to Big Sky via Iceland touring that remarkable country.
This was an extraordinary year of fantastic adventures by sea and land. Leaving Greece we sailed to the Bosporus into the Black Sea, along Northern Turkey’s coast, then up to Romania, entered the Danube River and sailed 100 NM to the overhead wires and then back into the Black Sea to Bulgaria and then into the Mediterranean again, ending our sailing year in Kos Greece. By land, it was a sensational walk through our childhood Bible stories. We flew into Aleppo December 2010 and toured the country from one end to the other, just one month before rebel forces took hold. We taxied to Jordan, rented a car to drive the King’s Highway, walked across the border to Israel, and then flew to Dusseldorf for the Boat Show, and while moored near Istanbul, we rented a car with Doug & Merrilee and toured Turkey's greatest sites: Ephesis, Cappadocia, and Pamakkule (pictured above) then back to Greece to Big Sky. In the spring, we flew back to Big Sky via Iceland touring that remarkable country.
GREECE
March 23 -- Back in Greece, on a 75 euro plane ticket from The Netherlands, we booked into a bed and breakfast in Nafplio, another favourite Greek town. We drove back to Kilada a few days later to begin our 2011 sailing season having Big Sky returned to the water sparkling having received cleaning, polishing and annual maintenance. With gentle breezes on the beam, we arrived in Porto Cheli where we anchored for the night.
March 29 -- After nearly hitting rocks on our way to Hydra (taking a short cut without a charted route – don’t do that) we arrived in the pretty harbour town, dropping our anchor very near to our OTHER anchor left abandoned six months ago when it broke at the swivel when Con, Jan, Anne Marie, and Albertine visited and I was in Canada. We always think of Canadian born Leonard Cohen who hung out here when the international artist scene was at its peak in the 60s.
Leonard Cohen & Marianne Story: In Hydra, Leonard spotted “The most beautiful woman” in the doorway of a store, her name was Marianne, from Olso, Norway. She had just been dumped by the father of her six-month old baby. Leonard drove her back to Olso and then returned to Montreal. From Montreal he sent her a note saying, “Bought house, just need woman and son.” They spend their time traveling between Norway, Canada and Hydra, Greece. He wrote the song: "So Long Marianne". Our waitress says that his son returns to their house on the hill in Hydra periodically.
Leaving, Hydra under blue skies and not a whiff of wind, we motored to Aitina, another quaint town near Athens. A bit of spring rain arrived.
March 31 -- More rain last night, and by morning, we departed to Piraeus under dark skies with our navigation lights and radar. We anticipated traffic and see below what we saw on the radar. The dark marks are other ships crossing our bow or coming at us directly from behind.
March 23 -- Back in Greece, on a 75 euro plane ticket from The Netherlands, we booked into a bed and breakfast in Nafplio, another favourite Greek town. We drove back to Kilada a few days later to begin our 2011 sailing season having Big Sky returned to the water sparkling having received cleaning, polishing and annual maintenance. With gentle breezes on the beam, we arrived in Porto Cheli where we anchored for the night.
March 29 -- After nearly hitting rocks on our way to Hydra (taking a short cut without a charted route – don’t do that) we arrived in the pretty harbour town, dropping our anchor very near to our OTHER anchor left abandoned six months ago when it broke at the swivel when Con, Jan, Anne Marie, and Albertine visited and I was in Canada. We always think of Canadian born Leonard Cohen who hung out here when the international artist scene was at its peak in the 60s.
Leonard Cohen & Marianne Story: In Hydra, Leonard spotted “The most beautiful woman” in the doorway of a store, her name was Marianne, from Olso, Norway. She had just been dumped by the father of her six-month old baby. Leonard drove her back to Olso and then returned to Montreal. From Montreal he sent her a note saying, “Bought house, just need woman and son.” They spend their time traveling between Norway, Canada and Hydra, Greece. He wrote the song: "So Long Marianne". Our waitress says that his son returns to their house on the hill in Hydra periodically.
Leaving, Hydra under blue skies and not a whiff of wind, we motored to Aitina, another quaint town near Athens. A bit of spring rain arrived.
March 31 -- More rain last night, and by morning, we departed to Piraeus under dark skies with our navigation lights and radar. We anticipated traffic and see below what we saw on the radar. The dark marks are other ships crossing our bow or coming at us directly from behind.
April 2 – DOCTOR VISIT
My eye seemed infected so we walked to the public hospital which is the epidemy of efficient chaos leaving me with empathy for immigrants not knowing the country's language. Intuitively, we walked into the most crowded area, got in the line up and before I knew it I was having the first assessment. After that, I received a number and told to wait behind a particular door. Thirty minutes later I was invited in and seen by a an eye specialist, handed a prescription and a bill for 5 euro. She told me to come back in 10 days if the infection is not gone and she would lance it. It cleared up. Five Gypsy's waited at the door beside me. When their number was called, they entered together. When they exited, one woman literally beat up the 13-year old girl in front of everybody. She pulled her hair and swung at her a number of times until she connected with her head. The doctor watched in horror as we did. I think everyone was in shock or afraid to confront the woman.
Friday, an earthquake, 6.2 on the Richter Scale struck Crete, the large island in southern Greece. Affects were felt in Cairo. We felt nothing. We took another month's marina lease at Zea in Piraeus since we will leave Big Sky again, this time to fly to The Netherland's for Nomie's (Con's mom's) 95th birthday. Con's two daughters, husbands, and two grand children and one step grandson have flown there too, from Canada, and will later join us aboard.
April 8 -- Recycling in Piraeus This marina is not the typical cruiser's marina, void of a room to gather or to donate items so this is how we recycled:
Day one: I put an envelope of earrings on a ledge beside the sidewalk, and in no time, it was collected.
Day two: Con's sandals and a TV antenna. Scooped and scooped.
Day three: We placed our kettle, bottle openers, a few pairs of pants and shirts out. They were gone when we finished our walk. Later that afternoon, we left our boat hook and life preserver in the fishing harbour. Gone. We'd walked passed toilet on the ground near the garbage bin (in the centre of town) and upon our return. Gone. Despite the garbage bins overflowing in the streets, the orange tree's blossom scents fills the air everywhere we walk.
We were unexpectedly assessed 500 euro for having our boat in Greece for the last six months. We don't mind participating in helping with the Greek financial dilemma but this seemed odd. I think putting the boat in bond as we had been doing in Nafplio didn't make one speck of difference. In another month, we will be assessed an additional 250 euro more unless we depart the waters.
April 11 -- Live a board phenomenon When guests arrive on your boat, or you're just when you're locking it up to leave, a disaster befalls. For instance: Septic tank plugged when Albertine visited us in Lithuania. Hot water hose broke three times: 1) under skinny bathroom cabinet when Lindsey and Courtney visited in Atlantic France; 2) under the dishwasher and stove when Nick and Dan visited in Corsica; and 3) in back bathroom cabinet when Jan and Anne Marie visited in southern Italy. Calcium plugged the master toilet causing an overflowing situation in Italy when Roc, Lori, Brock and Linda visited aboard. Leaving Monastir, Tunisia, our back gate wouldn't close when the relay switch failed and our taxi was to arrive within 20 minutes. Our 50 kg anchor motor quit working in the Greek harbour of Tinos when my mom was aboard as we dodged ferry's and cruise liners for five hours eventually lifting it by hand. We lost our anchor in Hydra's harbour during another visit with Anne Marie and Jan. And now, two days before leaving for The Netherlands, returning with nine family members: Brit, Kris, Nolan and Kolton; Nick, Dan and Dex), we're dealing with three new issues:
1. front bathroom septic tank pump is leaking; replacement pump and filter is 575 euro or we can repair it and save the euros.
2. Microwave is working at half capacity. We just carted a replacement home on the bus!
3. Coolant is leaking in the engine room. We'll tackle that later...
I can't think of a thing that goes wrong when it's just Con and me aboard. Before leaving for The Netherlands, in anticipation of our two special guests, Nolan 3, and Dex 2 1/2, we strung netting round the boat to keep them topsides.
My eye seemed infected so we walked to the public hospital which is the epidemy of efficient chaos leaving me with empathy for immigrants not knowing the country's language. Intuitively, we walked into the most crowded area, got in the line up and before I knew it I was having the first assessment. After that, I received a number and told to wait behind a particular door. Thirty minutes later I was invited in and seen by a an eye specialist, handed a prescription and a bill for 5 euro. She told me to come back in 10 days if the infection is not gone and she would lance it. It cleared up. Five Gypsy's waited at the door beside me. When their number was called, they entered together. When they exited, one woman literally beat up the 13-year old girl in front of everybody. She pulled her hair and swung at her a number of times until she connected with her head. The doctor watched in horror as we did. I think everyone was in shock or afraid to confront the woman.
Friday, an earthquake, 6.2 on the Richter Scale struck Crete, the large island in southern Greece. Affects were felt in Cairo. We felt nothing. We took another month's marina lease at Zea in Piraeus since we will leave Big Sky again, this time to fly to The Netherland's for Nomie's (Con's mom's) 95th birthday. Con's two daughters, husbands, and two grand children and one step grandson have flown there too, from Canada, and will later join us aboard.
April 8 -- Recycling in Piraeus This marina is not the typical cruiser's marina, void of a room to gather or to donate items so this is how we recycled:
Day one: I put an envelope of earrings on a ledge beside the sidewalk, and in no time, it was collected.
Day two: Con's sandals and a TV antenna. Scooped and scooped.
Day three: We placed our kettle, bottle openers, a few pairs of pants and shirts out. They were gone when we finished our walk. Later that afternoon, we left our boat hook and life preserver in the fishing harbour. Gone. We'd walked passed toilet on the ground near the garbage bin (in the centre of town) and upon our return. Gone. Despite the garbage bins overflowing in the streets, the orange tree's blossom scents fills the air everywhere we walk.
We were unexpectedly assessed 500 euro for having our boat in Greece for the last six months. We don't mind participating in helping with the Greek financial dilemma but this seemed odd. I think putting the boat in bond as we had been doing in Nafplio didn't make one speck of difference. In another month, we will be assessed an additional 250 euro more unless we depart the waters.
April 11 -- Live a board phenomenon When guests arrive on your boat, or you're just when you're locking it up to leave, a disaster befalls. For instance: Septic tank plugged when Albertine visited us in Lithuania. Hot water hose broke three times: 1) under skinny bathroom cabinet when Lindsey and Courtney visited in Atlantic France; 2) under the dishwasher and stove when Nick and Dan visited in Corsica; and 3) in back bathroom cabinet when Jan and Anne Marie visited in southern Italy. Calcium plugged the master toilet causing an overflowing situation in Italy when Roc, Lori, Brock and Linda visited aboard. Leaving Monastir, Tunisia, our back gate wouldn't close when the relay switch failed and our taxi was to arrive within 20 minutes. Our 50 kg anchor motor quit working in the Greek harbour of Tinos when my mom was aboard as we dodged ferry's and cruise liners for five hours eventually lifting it by hand. We lost our anchor in Hydra's harbour during another visit with Anne Marie and Jan. And now, two days before leaving for The Netherlands, returning with nine family members: Brit, Kris, Nolan and Kolton; Nick, Dan and Dex), we're dealing with three new issues:
1. front bathroom septic tank pump is leaking; replacement pump and filter is 575 euro or we can repair it and save the euros.
2. Microwave is working at half capacity. We just carted a replacement home on the bus!
3. Coolant is leaking in the engine room. We'll tackle that later...
I can't think of a thing that goes wrong when it's just Con and me aboard. Before leaving for The Netherlands, in anticipation of our two special guests, Nolan 3, and Dex 2 1/2, we strung netting round the boat to keep them topsides.
April 22 – FAMILY ARRIVES! Nine of us aboard and life couldn’t be better, or...
On the heals of our 95th birthday celebration for Nomie in The Netherlands, the celebrations continued with family aboard. The moment Dex and Nolan entered Big Sky, they bee-lined it for the cupboard with switches (why that one??) and promptly turned everything off. While balancing on the cushions Nolan fell against the lower settee and nearly lost his two front teeth leaving blood splotches. An hour later, he bounced from the pilot house cushion to the companionway stairs, missing the stairs and falling head first to the floor. The next morning, Con filled the water tanks, visited the port police, marina office, picked up the last of the groceries, and before he returned, the crew woke, Dex mesmerized by the switches flipped one and a high-pitch sound filled the boat. I had no clue what it was or how to stop it, worrying it was an overload warning. Kris saw a "stop" button on the panel, pushed it, and the mysterious loud noise stopped. By 10 am we pulled in the lines heading to Hydra in strong winds. The sailing for some was splendid, but for others not so. Nolan hung over a throw-up bucket, after throwing up on the pilot house cushions. Dex sat for seven hours, totally content watching DVD's beside Nick and Dan. The milk spilled in the kitchen when a bottle of milk was being warmed in the new microwave. Brit was sick. Kris and Kolton slept. Everyone was hungry, but eating was one challenge too many. Spirits rose as we rounded the bend with Hydra in sight, only to find out there was no room. We set our course for Ermioni, 1.5 hours further. After a heck of a docking in a strong cross wind, we made supper and started to relax, that is until the authorities told us we'd have to move because the ferry was coming. We untied, motored into the bay and dropped the anchor.
April 24 -- Happily, I can report: no major falls yesterday or today and nobody is sick. The sun came out early in the morning and the two little monkeys (in monkey PJ's and life jackets) were happily feeding the fish. As they leaned over the rail, Dex turned to Nolan, "Are we feeding the fish food Nolan?"
"No, we're feeding them breakfast Dex."
We found a park, we've named "Summit" (it was a very steep climb) and "Medipark" because of the danger factor; there was a very steep slide and the kids loved it -- for the danger.
Easter in Ermioni. It's the largest festival celebration of the year, bigger than Christmas here. Throughout the week, effigies of Judas had been strung up around the town, and one was hanging on a noose floating on a raft in the harbour in front of Big Sky. Church bells had been ringing most of the day. The Greek Orthodox have been fasting and now lambs were turning on spits around the town and private yard parties are playing Greek music and people are doing the traditional Greek dances. When night moved in, the priest led a procession of people some dragging effigies of Adult Jesus and Baby Jesus through the streets. About 9:30, the fireworks began and the priest moved to one Judas after another and lit him on fire to cheering crowds. We stayed near Big Sky as the harbor waters were getting more and more agitated as the fishermen drove their boats around Floating Judas, all the while shooting off flare guns filling the sky with red smoke. Fireworks were set off everywhere. People threw those loud little firecrackers at your feet when you walked (no discrimination who they tossed them to) fiery ones were swishing through the red smoky sky horizontally and vertically. Residue from the fireworks landed on Big Sky leaving dark marks on the teak and dodger. To us the whole scene was out of control! The crowd wanting to get closer to Floating Judas and began crossing onto our gang plank. Con told them sternly to leave and was in the process of getting our hose out in anticipation of Big Sky setting ablaze, and just then, Floating Judas lit up in a huge blaze. People cheered. Choirs began across the harbor. The Greek Orthodox seem a bit unforgiving about Judas, despite the fact that he himself (according to Biblical history) hung himself, feeling bad about the betrayal, but they hang him every year and if that's not enough, they torch him too.
The holiday with the kids came and went too fast.
On the heals of our 95th birthday celebration for Nomie in The Netherlands, the celebrations continued with family aboard. The moment Dex and Nolan entered Big Sky, they bee-lined it for the cupboard with switches (why that one??) and promptly turned everything off. While balancing on the cushions Nolan fell against the lower settee and nearly lost his two front teeth leaving blood splotches. An hour later, he bounced from the pilot house cushion to the companionway stairs, missing the stairs and falling head first to the floor. The next morning, Con filled the water tanks, visited the port police, marina office, picked up the last of the groceries, and before he returned, the crew woke, Dex mesmerized by the switches flipped one and a high-pitch sound filled the boat. I had no clue what it was or how to stop it, worrying it was an overload warning. Kris saw a "stop" button on the panel, pushed it, and the mysterious loud noise stopped. By 10 am we pulled in the lines heading to Hydra in strong winds. The sailing for some was splendid, but for others not so. Nolan hung over a throw-up bucket, after throwing up on the pilot house cushions. Dex sat for seven hours, totally content watching DVD's beside Nick and Dan. The milk spilled in the kitchen when a bottle of milk was being warmed in the new microwave. Brit was sick. Kris and Kolton slept. Everyone was hungry, but eating was one challenge too many. Spirits rose as we rounded the bend with Hydra in sight, only to find out there was no room. We set our course for Ermioni, 1.5 hours further. After a heck of a docking in a strong cross wind, we made supper and started to relax, that is until the authorities told us we'd have to move because the ferry was coming. We untied, motored into the bay and dropped the anchor.
April 24 -- Happily, I can report: no major falls yesterday or today and nobody is sick. The sun came out early in the morning and the two little monkeys (in monkey PJ's and life jackets) were happily feeding the fish. As they leaned over the rail, Dex turned to Nolan, "Are we feeding the fish food Nolan?"
"No, we're feeding them breakfast Dex."
We found a park, we've named "Summit" (it was a very steep climb) and "Medipark" because of the danger factor; there was a very steep slide and the kids loved it -- for the danger.
Easter in Ermioni. It's the largest festival celebration of the year, bigger than Christmas here. Throughout the week, effigies of Judas had been strung up around the town, and one was hanging on a noose floating on a raft in the harbour in front of Big Sky. Church bells had been ringing most of the day. The Greek Orthodox have been fasting and now lambs were turning on spits around the town and private yard parties are playing Greek music and people are doing the traditional Greek dances. When night moved in, the priest led a procession of people some dragging effigies of Adult Jesus and Baby Jesus through the streets. About 9:30, the fireworks began and the priest moved to one Judas after another and lit him on fire to cheering crowds. We stayed near Big Sky as the harbor waters were getting more and more agitated as the fishermen drove their boats around Floating Judas, all the while shooting off flare guns filling the sky with red smoke. Fireworks were set off everywhere. People threw those loud little firecrackers at your feet when you walked (no discrimination who they tossed them to) fiery ones were swishing through the red smoky sky horizontally and vertically. Residue from the fireworks landed on Big Sky leaving dark marks on the teak and dodger. To us the whole scene was out of control! The crowd wanting to get closer to Floating Judas and began crossing onto our gang plank. Con told them sternly to leave and was in the process of getting our hose out in anticipation of Big Sky setting ablaze, and just then, Floating Judas lit up in a huge blaze. People cheered. Choirs began across the harbor. The Greek Orthodox seem a bit unforgiving about Judas, despite the fact that he himself (according to Biblical history) hung himself, feeling bad about the betrayal, but they hang him every year and if that's not enough, they torch him too.
The holiday with the kids came and went too fast.
CANADA
May 19 -- I flew back to Canada to have another visit with our family before Con and I sail to the Black Sea. Lindsey and Les, Courtney and Mike and grand baby Hailey, flew from Calgary to Victoria, to spend a weekend with my mom (Rene) and to celebrate the birthday's of Hailey 2, and Mike 31 (birthday's on the same day). Weather was near-perfect, and while the kids golfed, mom and I had a chance to play with Hailey all day. That's a near-perfect day for me!
May 19 -- I flew back to Canada to have another visit with our family before Con and I sail to the Black Sea. Lindsey and Les, Courtney and Mike and grand baby Hailey, flew from Calgary to Victoria, to spend a weekend with my mom (Rene) and to celebrate the birthday's of Hailey 2, and Mike 31 (birthday's on the same day). Weather was near-perfect, and while the kids golfed, mom and I had a chance to play with Hailey all day. That's a near-perfect day for me!
BACK TO BIG SKY AND GREECE
May 21 -- When Con caught me flinching when I drank hot coffee, I knew I needed to tend to my back molar. Researching dentists, we found one within walking distance from Kea Marina. It was a one-room office and the dentist spoke minimal English, and he was able to see me the moment I walked in. I pointed to the tooth, he did an air test on my teeth, and when he blew on the one I pointed to, we both knew a root canal would be the fix. “Now you can relax Greek style," and he froze my upper jaw. With a sling-shot tool, he hammered at my crown and after 20 minutes and two changes of protection gloves, (as they were covered in my blood), he yanked off my crown. The root canal was -- different. No assistant, and I assumed no cleaning staff, since the floor and counter had layers of dust. After an hour, he glued my cap back on, gave me his cell phone number 'in case I had pain over the weekend,'' and told me to come back on Monday and again Wednesday, to ensure there's no infection.
"What time?" I asked.
He shrugged, "When you want."
"How can I pay," I asked, standing from the chair pulling my clothes away from my sweaty body.
"When we're finished," he smiled.
The procedure was 200 Euro -- not counting the Extra Strength Advil.
May 23 -- Tim Shufelt, from the May 21 National Post wrote: {“to fix Greece, a modern country built on the ruins of past civilizations, is to impose a modern financial blueprint on the ruins of its failed economy. Greece is insolvent. After billions in bailout money and more than a year in crisis, Greece has made roughly no progress. In fact, its problems have worsened. The debt burden has increased, the country’s relationship with the rest of Europe is being poisoned by every bailout dollar thrown down the well, the government has lost all credibility with the Greek people, making austerity and shared sacrifice politically impossible. The Greek debt load sits at about 330-billion euro, almost 150 percent of its GDP. If Greece refinanced its entire debt at today’s coupons, it would be immediately bankrupt, crowd out all other government expenditure, the government would fall, riots on the streets, and their paper become worthless.”}
Sadly, we’ll depart this country that we’ve enjoyed for the last two years as seemingly crumbles behind us in our wake.
May 23 -- It was time to recertify our six-person life raft. It's stored in a small box attached to the stern rail and is to be used in the event Big Sky is sinking. We asked to tag along to see how the raft inflates, so the store reps picked us up in their tiny van, opened the back and ushered us in. With no access to air, and no seats, and no windows, we drove for 45 minutes in temperatures reaching 100 or so in the closed up van! Con and I sat in our own puddle of sweat and by the time we reached the shop, and they opened the door, we poured out onto the tarmac. Someone brought us water and we sucked every last drop back. As it turns out, the raft didn't pass recertification, so we're looking at a 1,200 euros for a new one. You can’t do without it, it’s like insurance. For 70 euro more, we bought an eight-person raft. "Why not wait in First Class, to be rescued," Con justified.
May 25 -- It's 33 degrees in the cockpit! We just returned from the dentist, for the third and final visit for my root canal, all performed within one week. The tooth feels great.
May 27 -- Spring rains have visited Greece along with the lightning and thunder. Our boat lit up brightly followed by the crackling and roaring of the thunder and the boat vibrated in the water! We scooped our electronics and stashed them into the oven to protect them. It's the most insulated place aboard. In the night, the rain pelted down on the boat, sending cozy-like goose bumps up and down my body. About noon, the storm lifted, temperatures rose to 28. Con, in a race with the rain clouds tried to fill the water tanks, but the rain won.
May 28 -- After a month in the Zea Marina, we extracted ourselves, motoring 41 NM to the Island of Kea, on our way east toward the Black Sea. Our second night, anchored in Gavrion, on the Island of Andro. Dolphins visited the boat underway during our 10-hour sail. Con loved the day and when he spotted land he said with disappointment, "Aw, we're almost there."
Arriving on the island of Psara, where maybe only a few dozen people live, we had dinner in front of the sea, watching the sun set, pictured below.
May 21 -- When Con caught me flinching when I drank hot coffee, I knew I needed to tend to my back molar. Researching dentists, we found one within walking distance from Kea Marina. It was a one-room office and the dentist spoke minimal English, and he was able to see me the moment I walked in. I pointed to the tooth, he did an air test on my teeth, and when he blew on the one I pointed to, we both knew a root canal would be the fix. “Now you can relax Greek style," and he froze my upper jaw. With a sling-shot tool, he hammered at my crown and after 20 minutes and two changes of protection gloves, (as they were covered in my blood), he yanked off my crown. The root canal was -- different. No assistant, and I assumed no cleaning staff, since the floor and counter had layers of dust. After an hour, he glued my cap back on, gave me his cell phone number 'in case I had pain over the weekend,'' and told me to come back on Monday and again Wednesday, to ensure there's no infection.
"What time?" I asked.
He shrugged, "When you want."
"How can I pay," I asked, standing from the chair pulling my clothes away from my sweaty body.
"When we're finished," he smiled.
The procedure was 200 Euro -- not counting the Extra Strength Advil.
May 23 -- Tim Shufelt, from the May 21 National Post wrote: {“to fix Greece, a modern country built on the ruins of past civilizations, is to impose a modern financial blueprint on the ruins of its failed economy. Greece is insolvent. After billions in bailout money and more than a year in crisis, Greece has made roughly no progress. In fact, its problems have worsened. The debt burden has increased, the country’s relationship with the rest of Europe is being poisoned by every bailout dollar thrown down the well, the government has lost all credibility with the Greek people, making austerity and shared sacrifice politically impossible. The Greek debt load sits at about 330-billion euro, almost 150 percent of its GDP. If Greece refinanced its entire debt at today’s coupons, it would be immediately bankrupt, crowd out all other government expenditure, the government would fall, riots on the streets, and their paper become worthless.”}
Sadly, we’ll depart this country that we’ve enjoyed for the last two years as seemingly crumbles behind us in our wake.
May 23 -- It was time to recertify our six-person life raft. It's stored in a small box attached to the stern rail and is to be used in the event Big Sky is sinking. We asked to tag along to see how the raft inflates, so the store reps picked us up in their tiny van, opened the back and ushered us in. With no access to air, and no seats, and no windows, we drove for 45 minutes in temperatures reaching 100 or so in the closed up van! Con and I sat in our own puddle of sweat and by the time we reached the shop, and they opened the door, we poured out onto the tarmac. Someone brought us water and we sucked every last drop back. As it turns out, the raft didn't pass recertification, so we're looking at a 1,200 euros for a new one. You can’t do without it, it’s like insurance. For 70 euro more, we bought an eight-person raft. "Why not wait in First Class, to be rescued," Con justified.
May 25 -- It's 33 degrees in the cockpit! We just returned from the dentist, for the third and final visit for my root canal, all performed within one week. The tooth feels great.
May 27 -- Spring rains have visited Greece along with the lightning and thunder. Our boat lit up brightly followed by the crackling and roaring of the thunder and the boat vibrated in the water! We scooped our electronics and stashed them into the oven to protect them. It's the most insulated place aboard. In the night, the rain pelted down on the boat, sending cozy-like goose bumps up and down my body. About noon, the storm lifted, temperatures rose to 28. Con, in a race with the rain clouds tried to fill the water tanks, but the rain won.
May 28 -- After a month in the Zea Marina, we extracted ourselves, motoring 41 NM to the Island of Kea, on our way east toward the Black Sea. Our second night, anchored in Gavrion, on the Island of Andro. Dolphins visited the boat underway during our 10-hour sail. Con loved the day and when he spotted land he said with disappointment, "Aw, we're almost there."
Arriving on the island of Psara, where maybe only a few dozen people live, we had dinner in front of the sea, watching the sun set, pictured below.
June 1 -- Remembering my dad today, who would have turned 86. Happy Birthday dad. Thanks for teaching us the value of laughter!
June 2 -- We entered the Dardanelles, the narrow strait, barely 1300 meters across, fighting the strong currents arriving in the friendly town of Canakkale, Turkey; Europe on our left and Asia on our right. The route between the continents was made by a fault in the mountains around the Sea of Marmara opening up and the sea rushing through. This is where more than 100,000 men lost their lives in WWI during the Gallipoli massacre.
"The calm blue sea was absolutely red with blood'for a distance of 50 yards from the shore. It was a horrible sight to see. Red Ripples washed upon the beach and everywhere the calm surface of the water was whipped up into ghastly discoloured foam by thousands of falling bullets. The sun was shining" -- Alan Moorehead's Gallipoli
The Turks held back an overwhelming number of British forces for more than 24 hours, slaughtering them as they hit the beach. A giant Trojan Horse sits proudly near the marina fashioned after the mythological story of the 10-year siege of Troy, Trojan War where the Greeks pretended to sail away in their ships, and as a parting gift presented an enormous wooden horse. It was allowed into the protective fortress and the Greeks crept out at night and won the ensuring war.
The next morning, I walked to the bow noticing a group of men sitting right of our bow talking and eyeballing our boat with disgust. I smiled. They frowned. Finally one man said, "We’re not communist!” I smiled confused. He looked up at the country courtesy flag we'd hoisted portside and added, "Take down immediately.” I looked at the red flag flapping showing clearly the Soviet hammer and sickle in the middle rather than the moon and star. Oops. I went below and scrounged through our bag of flags finding the correct one, hoisted it and the men relaxed.
Con’s ear was infected and after lining up for 30 minutes at a hospital. Finally, we were redirected to the right location and the doctor saw Con right away, handing him a prescription saying, "No charge." For about 2 euro he had two types of medication and it cleared up within a day or two.
Below: Con in his underwear navigating the Dardenelles; the Trojan horse.
June 2 -- We entered the Dardanelles, the narrow strait, barely 1300 meters across, fighting the strong currents arriving in the friendly town of Canakkale, Turkey; Europe on our left and Asia on our right. The route between the continents was made by a fault in the mountains around the Sea of Marmara opening up and the sea rushing through. This is where more than 100,000 men lost their lives in WWI during the Gallipoli massacre.
"The calm blue sea was absolutely red with blood'for a distance of 50 yards from the shore. It was a horrible sight to see. Red Ripples washed upon the beach and everywhere the calm surface of the water was whipped up into ghastly discoloured foam by thousands of falling bullets. The sun was shining" -- Alan Moorehead's Gallipoli
The Turks held back an overwhelming number of British forces for more than 24 hours, slaughtering them as they hit the beach. A giant Trojan Horse sits proudly near the marina fashioned after the mythological story of the 10-year siege of Troy, Trojan War where the Greeks pretended to sail away in their ships, and as a parting gift presented an enormous wooden horse. It was allowed into the protective fortress and the Greeks crept out at night and won the ensuring war.
The next morning, I walked to the bow noticing a group of men sitting right of our bow talking and eyeballing our boat with disgust. I smiled. They frowned. Finally one man said, "We’re not communist!” I smiled confused. He looked up at the country courtesy flag we'd hoisted portside and added, "Take down immediately.” I looked at the red flag flapping showing clearly the Soviet hammer and sickle in the middle rather than the moon and star. Oops. I went below and scrounged through our bag of flags finding the correct one, hoisted it and the men relaxed.
Con’s ear was infected and after lining up for 30 minutes at a hospital. Finally, we were redirected to the right location and the doctor saw Con right away, handing him a prescription saying, "No charge." For about 2 euro he had two types of medication and it cleared up within a day or two.
Below: Con in his underwear navigating the Dardenelles; the Trojan horse.
BLACK SEA
June 4 -- From Canakkale we explored east toward the Black Sea with Europe on our left hoping for helpful currents for our ten-hour trek to the bay on the island of Saraylar where we anchored with a view of the marble mining quarry, (last photo shown below). The next day was another glorious ten-hour trek east to the Yalova Marina. Not a breath of wind -- until we tried to dock when a nasty cross wind made it incredibly challenging. We asked the marinara NOT to lift the line so we could control our boat with the engine . He nodded, but a moment later lifted the line and it was sucked into the prop killing the engine. We managed with great difficulty to secure her and that night, the marina sent a diver saying, "Our fault, no charge." View Dardanelles in a larger map
ISTANBUL
June 7 -- Yalova is directly south of Istanbul and situated beside the ferry terminal. We booked ourselves onto the 9 am ferry to explore this iconic city for our second time. Con used our visa booking tickets online later learning it was hacked. A week later, flights to Dubai and other strange placed were booked on our card. Visa investigated, declared fraud took place and put the credit back on our card. Istanbul is a wonderland of mosques, churches, palaces, museums, bazaars, Turkish baths and parks. We walked through The Bazaar Quarter, a maze of shops under an intricately painted vaulted roof, and then rested our feet in front of the waterfall. The Blue Mosque was directly in our eyesight, with the Haghia Sophia, on our right. Some of the stone masons who built the Blue Mosque also built India's Taj Mahal.
June 9 -- With Big Sky, we transited the Bosporus, a strategically important waterway, steeped in history motoring passed Old Istanbul with the Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque standing out above the skyline, the Palace, and then passing New Istanbul with modern skyscrapers. Further yet, were dazzling sea-side mansions built hundreds of years ago, fortresses, walls, and more mosques.
June 4 -- From Canakkale we explored east toward the Black Sea with Europe on our left hoping for helpful currents for our ten-hour trek to the bay on the island of Saraylar where we anchored with a view of the marble mining quarry, (last photo shown below). The next day was another glorious ten-hour trek east to the Yalova Marina. Not a breath of wind -- until we tried to dock when a nasty cross wind made it incredibly challenging. We asked the marinara NOT to lift the line so we could control our boat with the engine . He nodded, but a moment later lifted the line and it was sucked into the prop killing the engine. We managed with great difficulty to secure her and that night, the marina sent a diver saying, "Our fault, no charge." View Dardanelles in a larger map
ISTANBUL
June 7 -- Yalova is directly south of Istanbul and situated beside the ferry terminal. We booked ourselves onto the 9 am ferry to explore this iconic city for our second time. Con used our visa booking tickets online later learning it was hacked. A week later, flights to Dubai and other strange placed were booked on our card. Visa investigated, declared fraud took place and put the credit back on our card. Istanbul is a wonderland of mosques, churches, palaces, museums, bazaars, Turkish baths and parks. We walked through The Bazaar Quarter, a maze of shops under an intricately painted vaulted roof, and then rested our feet in front of the waterfall. The Blue Mosque was directly in our eyesight, with the Haghia Sophia, on our right. Some of the stone masons who built the Blue Mosque also built India's Taj Mahal.
June 9 -- With Big Sky, we transited the Bosporus, a strategically important waterway, steeped in history motoring passed Old Istanbul with the Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque standing out above the skyline, the Palace, and then passing New Istanbul with modern skyscrapers. Further yet, were dazzling sea-side mansions built hundreds of years ago, fortresses, walls, and more mosques.
The Bosporus is not for the faint of heart, the current can reach 5 knots coming from the Black Sea and the prevailing northerlies can tunnel through with great strength. The waters in and around Istanbul are churned up by slow and fast ferries coming and going in all directions, tour boats circling the huge freighters that are charging through in both directions. A moment of in-attention could be disastrous. We lucked out; the wind blew from the south holding back some of the current. The passage was a thrill! Once through, we hoisted our sails and sped along the Northern Turkish coast at speeds reaching more than 9 knots, under sunny skies, in the 30+ degree temperature range. Once into the Black Sea, we were welcomed by a pod of dolphins.
Big Sky was moored alongside a floating fish restaurant late afternoon in Sile on Turkey's northern coast in the Black Sea harbour. A patron welcomed us leaned out over the balcony and handed us a glass of Raki (Turkish ouzo) and a taste of local cheese. Con thanked him agreeing that it was good but declined his invitation to help him finish the bottle.
Sile is known for cotton and we set off to get Con a shirt (wearing it below). Temperatures were 30+ degrees when we ended our day with a beautiful fish meal aboard the restaurant we were tied to, returning home through mama's kitchen and then climbing over the rail.
June 10 -- (Happy Birthday to our daughter Brit tomorrow, and to my brother Doug today.)
The next day, we left by 9 am for Kefken, 30 NM east. First we passed a Turkish navy ship at anchor, a bit further what appeared to be two masts anchored with a suspended bull’s eye in the centre of the fabric. As we neared, we heard a boom, and knew exactly what it was for -- target practice for the navy. A few minutes later, our VHF sounded, "Sailing vessel that just left Sile, this is the Turkish Coast Guard, you are motoring in a live firing practice area." They told us they'd suspend practice until we were out of range, adding "We promise to keep an eye on you on our radar".
Dark clouds moved while still underway with thunder and lightning surrounded us. Con joined me inside. Attempting to have a glass of water, Con turned on the tap, but one of our three tanks was empty. We'd filled up earlier planning a three-week supply to take us to Romania and further. The culprit was the blasted hot water hose. There were two pieces that we'd NOT replaced yet, and we'd lost 500 litres through the leak. Arriving in Kefken's fishing harbour, the sun came out. Again, we tied alongside a fishing boat and set to work fixing the leak. Now famish, we walked over to a restaurant, ordered fish again, and the boat had just returned, we selected two, and 15 minutes later they were served.
Sile is known for cotton and we set off to get Con a shirt (wearing it below). Temperatures were 30+ degrees when we ended our day with a beautiful fish meal aboard the restaurant we were tied to, returning home through mama's kitchen and then climbing over the rail.
June 10 -- (Happy Birthday to our daughter Brit tomorrow, and to my brother Doug today.)
The next day, we left by 9 am for Kefken, 30 NM east. First we passed a Turkish navy ship at anchor, a bit further what appeared to be two masts anchored with a suspended bull’s eye in the centre of the fabric. As we neared, we heard a boom, and knew exactly what it was for -- target practice for the navy. A few minutes later, our VHF sounded, "Sailing vessel that just left Sile, this is the Turkish Coast Guard, you are motoring in a live firing practice area." They told us they'd suspend practice until we were out of range, adding "We promise to keep an eye on you on our radar".
Dark clouds moved while still underway with thunder and lightning surrounded us. Con joined me inside. Attempting to have a glass of water, Con turned on the tap, but one of our three tanks was empty. We'd filled up earlier planning a three-week supply to take us to Romania and further. The culprit was the blasted hot water hose. There were two pieces that we'd NOT replaced yet, and we'd lost 500 litres through the leak. Arriving in Kefken's fishing harbour, the sun came out. Again, we tied alongside a fishing boat and set to work fixing the leak. Now famish, we walked over to a restaurant, ordered fish again, and the boat had just returned, we selected two, and 15 minutes later they were served.
June 11 -- Con calls today "split personality" day referring to the weather. Not able to remain in Kefken as the winds had changed in the night pushing waves into the harbour, we departed for a destination further east along the Turkish northern coast. The sea was agitated, but not unpleasant -- at first... At its most pleasant moment, at least two dozen dolphins swam with us at our bow for nearly an hour. They were curious, turning to look at us, and talking in their squeak sounds. For the last few hours of our 8 1/2 hour trek, the wind picked up, and so did the waves, tossing Big Sky like a rubber duck side-to-side, (25 knots, gusting to 35, and waves two to three meters). We finally tucked behind a double breakwater, on some-what calmer sea at anchor. Just before we dropped the anchor behind the first breakwater, five guys motored up to us in their fishing boat, waving as their boat bobbed wildly. They invited us to relocate around the second breakwater in the fishing harbour. We were grateful. This area of Turkey receives a lot of rain, and we're experiencing it in the form of heavy sheets coming down, dozens of fishermen are in their tiny boats just outside the fishing harbour with their rods.
June 16 -- Each day underway, we're surrounded by dolphins. Today dozens joined us some flying high out of the water catching speed to match ours. We arrived in Asmara, 200 kilometres directly north of Ankara, the furthest east we've been with Big Sky that we've discovered along this coast, but there are harbours and friendly fishermen letting us tie alongside. They generally use old tires as fenders, so Big Sky is getting the Northern Coastal Sailing mark (black scruffy sides). Northern Turkey is the least visited part of Turkey and it's beautiful, culturally authentic and the fish meals are fabulous usually grilled on the sidewalk beside your table. It's more affordable and enjoyable to eat out than to buy groceries and we're eating out every night.
We took our expired Canadian pharmaceutical supplies to a pharmacy where prescriptions are not needed, and for less than $10 we have a fresh first aide kit. Below: Tied to a fishing boat; Con talking to the dolphins; a fishing village.
June 16 -- Each day underway, we're surrounded by dolphins. Today dozens joined us some flying high out of the water catching speed to match ours. We arrived in Asmara, 200 kilometres directly north of Ankara, the furthest east we've been with Big Sky that we've discovered along this coast, but there are harbours and friendly fishermen letting us tie alongside. They generally use old tires as fenders, so Big Sky is getting the Northern Coastal Sailing mark (black scruffy sides). Northern Turkey is the least visited part of Turkey and it's beautiful, culturally authentic and the fish meals are fabulous usually grilled on the sidewalk beside your table. It's more affordable and enjoyable to eat out than to buy groceries and we're eating out every night.
We took our expired Canadian pharmaceutical supplies to a pharmacy where prescriptions are not needed, and for less than $10 we have a fresh first aide kit. Below: Tied to a fishing boat; Con talking to the dolphins; a fishing village.
THE DANUBE
June 19 – Leaving from northern Turkey without properly checking out is not advised, but they don't make it easy. We'd have had to sail for a few days, back to Istanbul where once we check out we have to leave the country immediately. That would mean then turning back around into the Black Sea and continue until we reached Romania or Bulgaria, which would have taken a few more days.
At 5 am we left Asmara for Romania with our first stop in the Danube River, 32 hours later. The weather was spectacular during the crossing, and the sea incredibly calm. Con and I were the only living thing on the water for the first twenty hours, not counting the dozens and dozens of porpoises and dolphins. Nearing the port of Constanta, Romania, just south of our destination, we encountered larger ships crossing the shipping lanes. While underway, I used the washing machine and hung the clothes on the line. Arriving midafternoon the next day, under a hot sun, maneuvered into a spot along the pier with inches to spare on each side, and WHAT ARE THE ODDs, right behind another Canadian-flagged sailboat. With so few cruisers, this made the coincident even more fun.
Sulina is a friendly river-side town and our first place of entry. The police, customs & immigration, and the harbour master couldn’t be friendlier. No cost to sail in Romanian waters, and our stay at the quay, including wifi, electricity (and water, except that it's from the river, so we declined) was equivalent to $10 Canadian. The Harbour Master even brought in an electrician to rewire the electric panel so we could have power aboard. He walked us to the ATM, and to the spot where we can collect free wifi. When we declined the river water for our boat, he lugged an impossible fire hose to our boat, and we kindly declined. We had a great dinner out, a litre of cold white wine, for $17 Canadian (in lire). It's a walk back in history here, with the road along the river the only paved one, all the rest are dirt. Cows and people share the roads. Two women stopped us to ask if we’d be joining them for church. The language sound a little Latin, so a few words make sense.
I spotted the Canadian's leave their boat and went topside, "Hi Canada," I said adding, "What part of Canada are you from?”
“Calgary. Well, it’s a little place between Calgary and Banff,” the woman answered.
“Canmore?” I asked. She couldn’t believe I knew it.
"Yes!"
I explained that we were from Calgary too, and oddly, I asked, "Do you know the Smeeton’s?” It seemed a silly question, but I had been reading the sailing stories about them, just finishing High Endeavours and knew they were from that area.
“I AM Clio Smeeton,” she said. (The daughter of Miles and Beryl Smeeton.) The stories are free-spirited adventurous tales about their hair-raising stories and how they raised Clio.
We got together a few times as we traveled the Danube.
June 19 – Leaving from northern Turkey without properly checking out is not advised, but they don't make it easy. We'd have had to sail for a few days, back to Istanbul where once we check out we have to leave the country immediately. That would mean then turning back around into the Black Sea and continue until we reached Romania or Bulgaria, which would have taken a few more days.
At 5 am we left Asmara for Romania with our first stop in the Danube River, 32 hours later. The weather was spectacular during the crossing, and the sea incredibly calm. Con and I were the only living thing on the water for the first twenty hours, not counting the dozens and dozens of porpoises and dolphins. Nearing the port of Constanta, Romania, just south of our destination, we encountered larger ships crossing the shipping lanes. While underway, I used the washing machine and hung the clothes on the line. Arriving midafternoon the next day, under a hot sun, maneuvered into a spot along the pier with inches to spare on each side, and WHAT ARE THE ODDs, right behind another Canadian-flagged sailboat. With so few cruisers, this made the coincident even more fun.
Sulina is a friendly river-side town and our first place of entry. The police, customs & immigration, and the harbour master couldn’t be friendlier. No cost to sail in Romanian waters, and our stay at the quay, including wifi, electricity (and water, except that it's from the river, so we declined) was equivalent to $10 Canadian. The Harbour Master even brought in an electrician to rewire the electric panel so we could have power aboard. He walked us to the ATM, and to the spot where we can collect free wifi. When we declined the river water for our boat, he lugged an impossible fire hose to our boat, and we kindly declined. We had a great dinner out, a litre of cold white wine, for $17 Canadian (in lire). It's a walk back in history here, with the road along the river the only paved one, all the rest are dirt. Cows and people share the roads. Two women stopped us to ask if we’d be joining them for church. The language sound a little Latin, so a few words make sense.
I spotted the Canadian's leave their boat and went topside, "Hi Canada," I said adding, "What part of Canada are you from?”
“Calgary. Well, it’s a little place between Calgary and Banff,” the woman answered.
“Canmore?” I asked. She couldn’t believe I knew it.
"Yes!"
I explained that we were from Calgary too, and oddly, I asked, "Do you know the Smeeton’s?” It seemed a silly question, but I had been reading the sailing stories about them, just finishing High Endeavours and knew they were from that area.
“I AM Clio Smeeton,” she said. (The daughter of Miles and Beryl Smeeton.) The stories are free-spirited adventurous tales about their hair-raising stories and how they raised Clio.
We got together a few times as we traveled the Danube.
Grounding, Ramming the Barge, and Hitting High Wires
We needed diesel and learned of the floating Petro Barge which was in water depths too shallow for Big Sky. With the 3 knot current, we moved in slowly until our keel was grounded in the mud. The hose barely reached Big Sky but we managed to fill the port side unfortunately keeping us listing for most of our Danube travels until we burn it off and rebalance Big Sky. I counted 3,000 Romanian leu (in cash, because that's how they like it) and handed the stack over the Danube. Con freed Big Sky by working the throttle back and forth slowly moving us away from the barge, but still stuck in the mud and getting dangerously close to a barge. In a final move that freed us, Big Sky rammed the barge leaving its mark as well bending our stainless steel rail.
We spotted a concrete pier along the Danube with great effort we had Big Sky nearly tied when a small motor boat appeared behind us calling to us to "Come to his pier and stay for dinner," adding, "it's just down the river and a short way up the side arm."
Con and I shrugged to each other, "Why not."
"What is the depth?" I called to him.
"Depth is no problem. Come," and he turned up the tributary.
We untied Big Sky and drew back with the current and then rounded the bend and about 75 meters up the tributary, the depth reader showed 2.5 (we're 2.1 and deeper in fresh water). Moving more slowly, I stood at the bow looking into the river for potential trouble and raised my head to see where our hosts were and spotted wires! "BACK UP! BACK UP! BACK UP!" It was too late, we'd hit a wire and it was falling to Big Sky at the same time I was running for cover under the Bimini not touching the stainless steel rail for fear of electrocution. The wire hit the jib, and fell onto the bow, and slid into the water. I saw more clearly now that we'd pulled down a telephone wire. Continuing to reverse out and into the Sulina arm.
I said to Con, "Look!" Another 50 meters and we could have hit electric wires since I had my eyes pealed to the water for obstacles.
We carried on to the town of Maliuc and tied to their one and only pier and walked around the town counting six people, and one tiny store, with week-old bread and fresh cherries.
Below: Big Sky listing with port-side diesel only.
We needed diesel and learned of the floating Petro Barge which was in water depths too shallow for Big Sky. With the 3 knot current, we moved in slowly until our keel was grounded in the mud. The hose barely reached Big Sky but we managed to fill the port side unfortunately keeping us listing for most of our Danube travels until we burn it off and rebalance Big Sky. I counted 3,000 Romanian leu (in cash, because that's how they like it) and handed the stack over the Danube. Con freed Big Sky by working the throttle back and forth slowly moving us away from the barge, but still stuck in the mud and getting dangerously close to a barge. In a final move that freed us, Big Sky rammed the barge leaving its mark as well bending our stainless steel rail.
We spotted a concrete pier along the Danube with great effort we had Big Sky nearly tied when a small motor boat appeared behind us calling to us to "Come to his pier and stay for dinner," adding, "it's just down the river and a short way up the side arm."
Con and I shrugged to each other, "Why not."
"What is the depth?" I called to him.
"Depth is no problem. Come," and he turned up the tributary.
We untied Big Sky and drew back with the current and then rounded the bend and about 75 meters up the tributary, the depth reader showed 2.5 (we're 2.1 and deeper in fresh water). Moving more slowly, I stood at the bow looking into the river for potential trouble and raised my head to see where our hosts were and spotted wires! "BACK UP! BACK UP! BACK UP!" It was too late, we'd hit a wire and it was falling to Big Sky at the same time I was running for cover under the Bimini not touching the stainless steel rail for fear of electrocution. The wire hit the jib, and fell onto the bow, and slid into the water. I saw more clearly now that we'd pulled down a telephone wire. Continuing to reverse out and into the Sulina arm.
I said to Con, "Look!" Another 50 meters and we could have hit electric wires since I had my eyes pealed to the water for obstacles.
We carried on to the town of Maliuc and tied to their one and only pier and walked around the town counting six people, and one tiny store, with week-old bread and fresh cherries.
Below: Big Sky listing with port-side diesel only.
TULCEA
At the advice of Clio Smeeton and Ken Weagle, we tied to a paddle river boat, currently the Republica Restaurant in Tulcea, Romania, nearing the Ukrainian border, however, we have not been granted permission to sail there. The Danube is a sanctuary for birds. They cross the river, soar high above, and feed at the banks. Using our bird book, we logged at least two two dozen species with the most glorious, the black feathered storks, gliding balletic like overhead catching the thermals.
June 22 -- The sunset was spectacular and adding to the ambience were the sounds of the forest birds, cuckoo's, warblers, finches... We've travelled 110 NM up the Danube and now we'll return to the Black Sea, as it's as far as we can go with shallow depths and high wires ahead.
The river acts as a border between Romania and the Ukraine as it passes Moldova. The further into the delta, the greener and less swamp like the landscape. There are no towns or cities for kilometres. A serious game of chess was taking place in the park and crowds gathered to watch in silence.
June 25 -- With Big Sky as the only boat in a quiet marshland and soft bird songs putting us to sleep, it was like paradise, but then at 3 am a deep throated hoarse-sounding frog began singing.
Rain has come to the area, a welcome relief from the heat, with it wind has arrived, and we're trapped in Sulina for at least three days before exiting into the Black Sea.
June 28 -- CONSTANTA
Three days later, as the wind guru predicted, we were able to sail out of the Danube and south to Constanta, remaining close to shore as the big winds were further east. Constanta is the oldest city in Romania, founded in 600 BC, but too industrial for us. We stayed just one night and moved to the port city of Mangalia. Constanta is where Larry's dad was born (my daughter's father's father.)
At the advice of Clio Smeeton and Ken Weagle, we tied to a paddle river boat, currently the Republica Restaurant in Tulcea, Romania, nearing the Ukrainian border, however, we have not been granted permission to sail there. The Danube is a sanctuary for birds. They cross the river, soar high above, and feed at the banks. Using our bird book, we logged at least two two dozen species with the most glorious, the black feathered storks, gliding balletic like overhead catching the thermals.
June 22 -- The sunset was spectacular and adding to the ambience were the sounds of the forest birds, cuckoo's, warblers, finches... We've travelled 110 NM up the Danube and now we'll return to the Black Sea, as it's as far as we can go with shallow depths and high wires ahead.
The river acts as a border between Romania and the Ukraine as it passes Moldova. The further into the delta, the greener and less swamp like the landscape. There are no towns or cities for kilometres. A serious game of chess was taking place in the park and crowds gathered to watch in silence.
June 25 -- With Big Sky as the only boat in a quiet marshland and soft bird songs putting us to sleep, it was like paradise, but then at 3 am a deep throated hoarse-sounding frog began singing.
Rain has come to the area, a welcome relief from the heat, with it wind has arrived, and we're trapped in Sulina for at least three days before exiting into the Black Sea.
June 28 -- CONSTANTA
Three days later, as the wind guru predicted, we were able to sail out of the Danube and south to Constanta, remaining close to shore as the big winds were further east. Constanta is the oldest city in Romania, founded in 600 BC, but too industrial for us. We stayed just one night and moved to the port city of Mangalia. Constanta is where Larry's dad was born (my daughter's father's father.)
June 29 – ROMANIAN ROAD TRIP
With Big Sky in the Mangalia Marina, we drove to Transylvania in search of Dracula, stopping in Brasnov. It's in the heart of Transylvania, with medieval Saxon walls and bastions, Gothic churches, cobbled stone streets, and unique baroque buildings. Queen Marie's castle, the inspiration for the legend of Dracula is now a museum. Vlad III the Impaler lived in the 15th century and it was from his sir name Dracula that the book "Dracula" was written in the late 1800s. Traveling to Bucharest, Romania's capital city we saw so many contrasts of old and new buildings and layers of history. It's evolved through national pride using new money since nothing was left after the second round of communists wiped them clean. Standing in the Revolutionary Square, where Ceausescu went on the balcony December 22, 1989 to make his “it’s okay and stop rioting” speech that finished with 150,000 people storming the building, and he and his wife attempting to helicopter away from the roof. Ceausescu's snipers were told to shoot at anyone and everyone, and 1,104 people were murdered. The army brought down the helicopter safely, followed by a quick trial, ending a few days later with he and his wife being shot Christmas day. He drained the country of a healthy economy, causing painful shortages and poverty, electricity for just two hours a day to watch propaganda on TV. Ceausescu exported all of Romania's domestic goods to pay for the debts he'd accumulated. He built a palace for his parliament, bulldozing houses for the land, insisting it must be the largest in the world. The people had nothing and were forced to endure long lines for food, no clothes and other essentials.
We met a Romanian man, 65, an intellect and a walking encyclopedia of historic details about the coup, the country before, and after Ceausescu, and about the communist rule. Compassionate and raw stories about growing up under communism spilled out of him for an hour or more. He spoke of his youth, his dreams, and how the communists stole his future. He is the living history, he's poor but with dignity. We pondered afterward what contributions he could have made to the country and the world, instead of being forced into factory labour.
Today, lots of cultural events take place in the city. We enjoyed an outdoor free philharmonic concert. Other events going on, a classical performance in the Romanian Athenaeum, a beautiful building completed in 1888, and an outdoor rock concert featuring Mike and the Mechanics.
July 6 – Driving the secondary roads we stop in the medieval towns along the way. Romania has some of Europe’s best preserved medieval towns, full of history and archeological gems. We drove to the Hungarian border for the night and enjoyed a delicious gourmet meal of sirloin steak, appetizers, with a bottle of fabulous Transylvanian wine all for the equivalent of CND$37.
The next day, after a long day on the road, for the life of us we couldn’t find the bed and breakfast we’d booked online, but the GPS kept directing us to a specific turnoff, but it was a goat path, thick with bush and broken pavement, possibly the width of half a car. We turned and began the accent winding higher and higher, the path not getting any wider, and then -- the hotel!
"Why don't you put a sign on the road so people know where to turn?" we asked the proprietor.
“We don’t want ANYBODY coming here!”
He and his wife, in their 30s or 40s are the new Romanian generation, born into communism but exposed to "choices" since the fall of communism in 1989. There is great disparity economically between the two generations. Those just retiring when the regime fell, live in poverty today. Communism kept them from hunger, however meager it was. The younger generation have education of their choice, change jobs, travel... There's still fear that the old ways will return. The proprietor shared, "We're disappointed with the majority of Romanians, because for a beer, the mayor can buy their vote, and they'll vote for the Social Democrat party (the former communists), who are running the country very badly."
Below: I'm standing in front of the building (pictured beside) where Ceausescu attempted to escape by helicopter from the roof. The man pictured is the one who shared the stories with us. The square where we're standing is were Ceausescu murdered so many Romanians in 1989. The Parliament Palace is typical of the economic abuse.
With Big Sky in the Mangalia Marina, we drove to Transylvania in search of Dracula, stopping in Brasnov. It's in the heart of Transylvania, with medieval Saxon walls and bastions, Gothic churches, cobbled stone streets, and unique baroque buildings. Queen Marie's castle, the inspiration for the legend of Dracula is now a museum. Vlad III the Impaler lived in the 15th century and it was from his sir name Dracula that the book "Dracula" was written in the late 1800s. Traveling to Bucharest, Romania's capital city we saw so many contrasts of old and new buildings and layers of history. It's evolved through national pride using new money since nothing was left after the second round of communists wiped them clean. Standing in the Revolutionary Square, where Ceausescu went on the balcony December 22, 1989 to make his “it’s okay and stop rioting” speech that finished with 150,000 people storming the building, and he and his wife attempting to helicopter away from the roof. Ceausescu's snipers were told to shoot at anyone and everyone, and 1,104 people were murdered. The army brought down the helicopter safely, followed by a quick trial, ending a few days later with he and his wife being shot Christmas day. He drained the country of a healthy economy, causing painful shortages and poverty, electricity for just two hours a day to watch propaganda on TV. Ceausescu exported all of Romania's domestic goods to pay for the debts he'd accumulated. He built a palace for his parliament, bulldozing houses for the land, insisting it must be the largest in the world. The people had nothing and were forced to endure long lines for food, no clothes and other essentials.
We met a Romanian man, 65, an intellect and a walking encyclopedia of historic details about the coup, the country before, and after Ceausescu, and about the communist rule. Compassionate and raw stories about growing up under communism spilled out of him for an hour or more. He spoke of his youth, his dreams, and how the communists stole his future. He is the living history, he's poor but with dignity. We pondered afterward what contributions he could have made to the country and the world, instead of being forced into factory labour.
Today, lots of cultural events take place in the city. We enjoyed an outdoor free philharmonic concert. Other events going on, a classical performance in the Romanian Athenaeum, a beautiful building completed in 1888, and an outdoor rock concert featuring Mike and the Mechanics.
July 6 – Driving the secondary roads we stop in the medieval towns along the way. Romania has some of Europe’s best preserved medieval towns, full of history and archeological gems. We drove to the Hungarian border for the night and enjoyed a delicious gourmet meal of sirloin steak, appetizers, with a bottle of fabulous Transylvanian wine all for the equivalent of CND$37.
The next day, after a long day on the road, for the life of us we couldn’t find the bed and breakfast we’d booked online, but the GPS kept directing us to a specific turnoff, but it was a goat path, thick with bush and broken pavement, possibly the width of half a car. We turned and began the accent winding higher and higher, the path not getting any wider, and then -- the hotel!
"Why don't you put a sign on the road so people know where to turn?" we asked the proprietor.
“We don’t want ANYBODY coming here!”
He and his wife, in their 30s or 40s are the new Romanian generation, born into communism but exposed to "choices" since the fall of communism in 1989. There is great disparity economically between the two generations. Those just retiring when the regime fell, live in poverty today. Communism kept them from hunger, however meager it was. The younger generation have education of their choice, change jobs, travel... There's still fear that the old ways will return. The proprietor shared, "We're disappointed with the majority of Romanians, because for a beer, the mayor can buy their vote, and they'll vote for the Social Democrat party (the former communists), who are running the country very badly."
Below: I'm standing in front of the building (pictured beside) where Ceausescu attempted to escape by helicopter from the roof. The man pictured is the one who shared the stories with us. The square where we're standing is were Ceausescu murdered so many Romanians in 1989. The Parliament Palace is typical of the economic abuse.
BULGARIA
July 16 -- Sailing south along the coast, we entered Balchik, Bulgaria in our sixth week in the Black Sea and Danube. The harbor master estimated that fewer than 25 foreign flagged yachts had visited in 2011. Bulgaria is the country closest to Turkey and the second most developed country for cruisers in the Black Sea (next to Turkey). Navigation has been more oF a guessing game. Our most recent Garmin charts has given us locations for Big Sky at times a mile onto the land. The Imray Pilot Book we purchased for this area was completely useless. Con said, "It's about as good as a recipe for making soap." Our newly acquired iPad with Navionics charts have been much better, but there's still a great need for better charting in this area.
Our experience has been unique for us. The waters are thick with black porpoises and Bottlenose dolphins, hundreds of birds, long golden beaches, and welcoming people. There are many stories about wild seas, but our experiences were delightful. The common thread that runs through all the places we visited was minimal paperwork, good prices, available water, electricity, wifi, and welcoming port authorities and communities.
July 17 -- The language is Slavic, and the food is mostly deep fried, (in Romania too) but happily we've discovered sushi here. Strangely, they use Philadelphia cream cheese in many of their rolls. Every house serves yoghurt, cucumber, garlic and dill cold soup, and it's common in the restaurants. Good too. With the Black Sea's endless golden sandy beaches there are lots of sun worshippers in skimpy bathing suits or not at all. Varna is a city of both beautiful historic sites and ugly buildings. Here, it appears there are more destitute people. Sailing on to Nesebar the dolphins visited again. The sea was calm and flat, so half way, we stopped to have a swim avoiding the massive-sized white with purple stripped jellyfish--the largest we've seen. When we arrived in the marina, the water was so dense with them, that they gave me a nightmare.
July 19 – SAILED TO SOSOPOL We packed a bag for two weeks, and connected on the street with the lady who was delivering our car rental. She stopped in a parking area to hand us our paperwork and an officer immediately walked over and gave her a ticket. No leniency. From there, Con and I drove to the capital, Sofia and booked into a comfy hotel in the heart of the city. Alexander Nevski Cathedral is one of the most spectacular buildings in Sofia. Named after St. Alexander Nesi, a Russian tsar who saved Russia from invading Swedish troops in 1240. St. Sofia church is where Sofia takes its name. In front of the church, a man approached us to exchange money, a common scam, and one we didn't fall for. Again, men populate the parks playing chess and backgammon. At the Kempinski Hotel in Bansko, we booked in for a third day so we could be lazy in the sun at their pool, taking a few short hikes around the town and up into the Pirin Mountains. Bansko is a ski resort town.
We sought out the Baykushevata Mura tree, at 1,930 meters altitude, it's the oldest conifer in Bulgaria. It's from the black fir family, and is said to be more than 1,300 years old. Imagine the history this tree could tell. The area is beautiful, with waterfalls, dramatic slopes, edelweiss flowers and wild goats. Some Bulgarians seem to be quite serious, not smiling at strangers, and unforgiving if you break a rule. Their roots go back to Central Asia, where traditionally they're straight-faced folks: the Chinese, Kazakhs, and Turks. The guide book says that they've likely adapted to the thousands of lean nomadic years with the likes of Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, and other empire overlords. Not knowing friend or foe immediately, making smiles are reserved for deserving people.
If you'd like a vacation in a country with endless beaches, hot weather, warm sea, historic sites, beautiful architecture, good food, fresh off-the-tree fruits, peaches to die for, everything affordable, friendly people, and a different culture, go to Bulgaria. Our CND$1.40 (equivalent) pizza has just arrived, hot out of the oven, must go.
July 16 -- Sailing south along the coast, we entered Balchik, Bulgaria in our sixth week in the Black Sea and Danube. The harbor master estimated that fewer than 25 foreign flagged yachts had visited in 2011. Bulgaria is the country closest to Turkey and the second most developed country for cruisers in the Black Sea (next to Turkey). Navigation has been more oF a guessing game. Our most recent Garmin charts has given us locations for Big Sky at times a mile onto the land. The Imray Pilot Book we purchased for this area was completely useless. Con said, "It's about as good as a recipe for making soap." Our newly acquired iPad with Navionics charts have been much better, but there's still a great need for better charting in this area.
Our experience has been unique for us. The waters are thick with black porpoises and Bottlenose dolphins, hundreds of birds, long golden beaches, and welcoming people. There are many stories about wild seas, but our experiences were delightful. The common thread that runs through all the places we visited was minimal paperwork, good prices, available water, electricity, wifi, and welcoming port authorities and communities.
July 17 -- The language is Slavic, and the food is mostly deep fried, (in Romania too) but happily we've discovered sushi here. Strangely, they use Philadelphia cream cheese in many of their rolls. Every house serves yoghurt, cucumber, garlic and dill cold soup, and it's common in the restaurants. Good too. With the Black Sea's endless golden sandy beaches there are lots of sun worshippers in skimpy bathing suits or not at all. Varna is a city of both beautiful historic sites and ugly buildings. Here, it appears there are more destitute people. Sailing on to Nesebar the dolphins visited again. The sea was calm and flat, so half way, we stopped to have a swim avoiding the massive-sized white with purple stripped jellyfish--the largest we've seen. When we arrived in the marina, the water was so dense with them, that they gave me a nightmare.
July 19 – SAILED TO SOSOPOL We packed a bag for two weeks, and connected on the street with the lady who was delivering our car rental. She stopped in a parking area to hand us our paperwork and an officer immediately walked over and gave her a ticket. No leniency. From there, Con and I drove to the capital, Sofia and booked into a comfy hotel in the heart of the city. Alexander Nevski Cathedral is one of the most spectacular buildings in Sofia. Named after St. Alexander Nesi, a Russian tsar who saved Russia from invading Swedish troops in 1240. St. Sofia church is where Sofia takes its name. In front of the church, a man approached us to exchange money, a common scam, and one we didn't fall for. Again, men populate the parks playing chess and backgammon. At the Kempinski Hotel in Bansko, we booked in for a third day so we could be lazy in the sun at their pool, taking a few short hikes around the town and up into the Pirin Mountains. Bansko is a ski resort town.
We sought out the Baykushevata Mura tree, at 1,930 meters altitude, it's the oldest conifer in Bulgaria. It's from the black fir family, and is said to be more than 1,300 years old. Imagine the history this tree could tell. The area is beautiful, with waterfalls, dramatic slopes, edelweiss flowers and wild goats. Some Bulgarians seem to be quite serious, not smiling at strangers, and unforgiving if you break a rule. Their roots go back to Central Asia, where traditionally they're straight-faced folks: the Chinese, Kazakhs, and Turks. The guide book says that they've likely adapted to the thousands of lean nomadic years with the likes of Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, and other empire overlords. Not knowing friend or foe immediately, making smiles are reserved for deserving people.
If you'd like a vacation in a country with endless beaches, hot weather, warm sea, historic sites, beautiful architecture, good food, fresh off-the-tree fruits, peaches to die for, everything affordable, friendly people, and a different culture, go to Bulgaria. Our CND$1.40 (equivalent) pizza has just arrived, hot out of the oven, must go.
TURKEY
August 3 -- From Bulgaria we set sail back into Turkey entering through the Bosporus dropping anchor in the sheltered fishing harbor of Poyraz, Turkey surrounded by jellyfish. Checking in isn't necessary, in fact we can't, since we didn't check out. Checking out of Tsarevo, the one and only check out location you must leave once you've been cleared out, and they only check you out during their office hours. That's tricky when you're having to gage safety by weather and time of day, since it's an 83 NM journey to the Bosporus (about 12 to 13 hours) and you don't want to arrive in there in the dark. When Con tried to explain that arriving at our destination at midnight isn’t safe, they said, “If you leave without checking out we will send a gun-boat after you and escort you back to port." Con went back in the morning, and they had a change of heart and allowed us to clear out the night before so we could have an early departure with daylight arrival. The wind turned east setting up short steep waves against a slight current into which we pounded into for twelve hours.
The painting above is by L. Poptoscheva, a third-generation Bulgarian artist. She sat in 30+ degree temperatures for six hours to complete the work and charged us $70 Canadian.
The weather was as promised -- for about an hour, then the wind turned east, setting up short steep waves against a slight current, into which we pounded for the next twelve hours.
August 9 -- Ramadan & Wine We arrived in Yalova again, this time during Ramadan, where Muslims fast from food and alcohol and other physical physical things during daylight hours to purify their souls, refocus on God, practice self-sacrifice. We selected a table in an outside restaurant with a view of Big Sky. Since Ramadam doesn't affect us, we ordered wine.
The waiter said, "Shut-up!" and walked back inside.
"Oh," Con said surprised and raised an eyebrow to me.
"It's Ramadam, maybe we offended him," I said to Con.
The waiter returned with a menu for me and I looked it over not recognizing a thing, except "Coca Cola," and I questioned, "Which are the white wines?"
He spoke many words to us and the only two words I understood were, "Shut Up!"
"Oh," I said, and he hung over my shoulder, and I looked up at him saying with a smile, "You know, when you say 'shut up' in English, haha it's like shouting to us to 'be quiet,'" and I gestured with my fingers over my mouth like I was saying 'shhhh.'"
He looked confused and said again rather impatiently, "Shut up, Shut UP!, SHUT UP!"
We were perplexed to say the least and just inhaled wondering what our next words should be. Finally the cook came out of the kitchen to help, and spoke to Con in German, then translated to the waiter and I heard "shut up" again.
In the next moment, we were asked to move to a table in the far corner away from ALL the tables, and very expensive white wine arrived at our table with our meal.
I later looked up the translation for "wine" in Turkish and click this for what I heard. ("Wine" in Turkish is pronounced, "Shut up".
August 3 -- From Bulgaria we set sail back into Turkey entering through the Bosporus dropping anchor in the sheltered fishing harbor of Poyraz, Turkey surrounded by jellyfish. Checking in isn't necessary, in fact we can't, since we didn't check out. Checking out of Tsarevo, the one and only check out location you must leave once you've been cleared out, and they only check you out during their office hours. That's tricky when you're having to gage safety by weather and time of day, since it's an 83 NM journey to the Bosporus (about 12 to 13 hours) and you don't want to arrive in there in the dark. When Con tried to explain that arriving at our destination at midnight isn’t safe, they said, “If you leave without checking out we will send a gun-boat after you and escort you back to port." Con went back in the morning, and they had a change of heart and allowed us to clear out the night before so we could have an early departure with daylight arrival. The wind turned east setting up short steep waves against a slight current into which we pounded into for twelve hours.
The painting above is by L. Poptoscheva, a third-generation Bulgarian artist. She sat in 30+ degree temperatures for six hours to complete the work and charged us $70 Canadian.
The weather was as promised -- for about an hour, then the wind turned east, setting up short steep waves against a slight current, into which we pounded for the next twelve hours.
August 9 -- Ramadan & Wine We arrived in Yalova again, this time during Ramadan, where Muslims fast from food and alcohol and other physical physical things during daylight hours to purify their souls, refocus on God, practice self-sacrifice. We selected a table in an outside restaurant with a view of Big Sky. Since Ramadam doesn't affect us, we ordered wine.
The waiter said, "Shut-up!" and walked back inside.
"Oh," Con said surprised and raised an eyebrow to me.
"It's Ramadam, maybe we offended him," I said to Con.
The waiter returned with a menu for me and I looked it over not recognizing a thing, except "Coca Cola," and I questioned, "Which are the white wines?"
He spoke many words to us and the only two words I understood were, "Shut Up!"
"Oh," I said, and he hung over my shoulder, and I looked up at him saying with a smile, "You know, when you say 'shut up' in English, haha it's like shouting to us to 'be quiet,'" and I gestured with my fingers over my mouth like I was saying 'shhhh.'"
He looked confused and said again rather impatiently, "Shut up, Shut UP!, SHUT UP!"
We were perplexed to say the least and just inhaled wondering what our next words should be. Finally the cook came out of the kitchen to help, and spoke to Con in German, then translated to the waiter and I heard "shut up" again.
In the next moment, we were asked to move to a table in the far corner away from ALL the tables, and very expensive white wine arrived at our table with our meal.
I later looked up the translation for "wine" in Turkish and click this for what I heard. ("Wine" in Turkish is pronounced, "Shut up".
CANADA August - September
September 17 -- Back on Big Sky
Returning to Turkey, we climbed aboard Big Sky in the Yalova Marina. In the morning, we crossed the street to market for "Market Day" stocking up on fresh veggies and fruits. Vendors arrived by truck in the night setting up for hours, and sleeping right by their stalls ready for the morning customers.
As Ramadan was still going on, we settled in an outdoor restaurant across from Big Sky a half hour before sun down. The waiter asked us to sit in a corner, but we kindly rejected, so they offered us a spot in a concealed spot on the patio. This is how it went:
Sunset anticipated at 8:11 pm at which time they can eat, drink, smoke...
7:43 - People fill up the tables around us.
7:44 - Our food arrives and begin eating.
7:46 – The Muslims watch us eat.
7:47 - Cutlery is placed on their tables. They watch us eat.
7:50 – We see hungry kids, exhausted-looking adult watching the bread and salads being delivered to their tables. They look at the food and they look at us.
7:56 -- They watch us eat. No one talks.
8:05 -- Water is placed on tables. Cell phones are pulled out to watch the time and us. Caps are taken off the water. No talking.
8:06 -- Soup is placed on tables.
8:07 – Lemon is squirted into the soup. They hold a spoon in one hand, their cell phone in the other. They watch their cell phones. Children have bread ripped and ready to eat.
8:08-8:11 -- Silence.
8:11 -- Loud gun blast scatters the birds, and we hear the sounds of spoons ready against bowls. Still silence.
8:11 -- 8:16 Iman belts out messages from minaret.
8:20 -- People eat! Talking and laughing begins.
Con thinks the expression "Jumping the Gun" comes from Muslims eating or drinking before the gun blast!
September 17 -- Back on Big Sky
Returning to Turkey, we climbed aboard Big Sky in the Yalova Marina. In the morning, we crossed the street to market for "Market Day" stocking up on fresh veggies and fruits. Vendors arrived by truck in the night setting up for hours, and sleeping right by their stalls ready for the morning customers.
As Ramadan was still going on, we settled in an outdoor restaurant across from Big Sky a half hour before sun down. The waiter asked us to sit in a corner, but we kindly rejected, so they offered us a spot in a concealed spot on the patio. This is how it went:
Sunset anticipated at 8:11 pm at which time they can eat, drink, smoke...
7:43 - People fill up the tables around us.
7:44 - Our food arrives and begin eating.
7:46 – The Muslims watch us eat.
7:47 - Cutlery is placed on their tables. They watch us eat.
7:50 – We see hungry kids, exhausted-looking adult watching the bread and salads being delivered to their tables. They look at the food and they look at us.
7:56 -- They watch us eat. No one talks.
8:05 -- Water is placed on tables. Cell phones are pulled out to watch the time and us. Caps are taken off the water. No talking.
8:06 -- Soup is placed on tables.
8:07 – Lemon is squirted into the soup. They hold a spoon in one hand, their cell phone in the other. They watch their cell phones. Children have bread ripped and ready to eat.
8:08-8:11 -- Silence.
8:11 -- Loud gun blast scatters the birds, and we hear the sounds of spoons ready against bowls. Still silence.
8:11 -- 8:16 Iman belts out messages from minaret.
8:20 -- People eat! Talking and laughing begins.
Con thinks the expression "Jumping the Gun" comes from Muslims eating or drinking before the gun blast!
September 23 – Doug and Merrilee Arrive
With the 10-hour time difference (Canada to Turkey) we had no problem getting up early to catch the ferry to Istanbul, across the Marmaras Sea from Yalova where we've purchased a two-month stay in the marina (for the price of one month, their special). We’ve been to Istanbul a few times, but always enjoy exploring the markets and Mosques. When we got back to the boat, I packed a small bag for our anticipated five-day adventure inland with my brother Doug and Merrilee, arriving in the morning via Toronto - Istanbul - ferry.
September 24 -- We stood anxiously in the light rain, watching all the ferry passengers disembark, but Doug and Merrilee were nowhere in sight. All the passengers had now disembarked and the Istanbul bound passengers had all nearly boarded. We still waited... Finally, the last vehicle boarded and the doors were closing when we spotted them walking casually off the ferry! They had been stuck in the tiny elevator with their bags!
September 25 -- Road Trip To Bergama: In a rental, the four of us headed to the Hellenic and Roman ruin, known at the time for medical practices and dates back to the second century.
The 26th, we drove to Ephesus, "Selcuk" a spectacular ancient city, once the central commercial area through centuries of civilizations (Greeks to Romans) and the place where Christianity was spread. Southwest of Selcuk stands the house where the Virgin Mary is believed to have lived. We toured the site from one end to the other.
The 27th, we arrived at the spectacular terraced thermal pools of Pamakkule "cotton castle" in translation, a place I'd seen in magazines and read about, thrilled to actually not only be there, but sit in the waters with my brother. Rich mineral thermal waters flow down the mountainside leaving white carbonate material coating the land. The ruins of Hierapolis, an ancient Roman spa city founded around 190 BC sits at the top with a well-preserved theater and a necropolis with sarcophagi that stretches for 2 km. We climbed up the white salt-like mountain barefoot, because you’re not allowed to wear shoes, donned our bathing suits and soaked in the thermal hot waters. Not too long ago, a hotel sat at the top, and people rode bikes and motorcycles up and down the beautiful white travertine (limestone) hillside; use shampoo and soap to bathe in the springs and they noticed it was being destroyed. Today, security is in place to protect its natural beauty. For more information, visit: Bergama, Ephesus, and Pamakkule.
Returning to Big Sky following our tour, I received an email from my doctor with results from a biopsy done this past summer. I flew back to Calgary for emergency surgery after just 11 days in Turkey. Doug and Merrilee changed their vacation from an "easy sail in the Sea of Marmaras" to a full-out, 50 NM sail south with Con to help Con get Big Sky to a secure winter spot. They were troopers, sailing in rough seas, and stepping up to the First Mate tasks without a hint of complaint. I was disappointing to not continue our holiday together. The day I departed by ferry to Istanbul for my flight, I looked out the window at the angry sea feeling sorry for ANYBODY who had to be on the waters. Well, I didn't know it then, but learned that Doug, Merrilee, and Con left that day for their first leg of the journey south.
With the 10-hour time difference (Canada to Turkey) we had no problem getting up early to catch the ferry to Istanbul, across the Marmaras Sea from Yalova where we've purchased a two-month stay in the marina (for the price of one month, their special). We’ve been to Istanbul a few times, but always enjoy exploring the markets and Mosques. When we got back to the boat, I packed a small bag for our anticipated five-day adventure inland with my brother Doug and Merrilee, arriving in the morning via Toronto - Istanbul - ferry.
September 24 -- We stood anxiously in the light rain, watching all the ferry passengers disembark, but Doug and Merrilee were nowhere in sight. All the passengers had now disembarked and the Istanbul bound passengers had all nearly boarded. We still waited... Finally, the last vehicle boarded and the doors were closing when we spotted them walking casually off the ferry! They had been stuck in the tiny elevator with their bags!
September 25 -- Road Trip To Bergama: In a rental, the four of us headed to the Hellenic and Roman ruin, known at the time for medical practices and dates back to the second century.
The 26th, we drove to Ephesus, "Selcuk" a spectacular ancient city, once the central commercial area through centuries of civilizations (Greeks to Romans) and the place where Christianity was spread. Southwest of Selcuk stands the house where the Virgin Mary is believed to have lived. We toured the site from one end to the other.
The 27th, we arrived at the spectacular terraced thermal pools of Pamakkule "cotton castle" in translation, a place I'd seen in magazines and read about, thrilled to actually not only be there, but sit in the waters with my brother. Rich mineral thermal waters flow down the mountainside leaving white carbonate material coating the land. The ruins of Hierapolis, an ancient Roman spa city founded around 190 BC sits at the top with a well-preserved theater and a necropolis with sarcophagi that stretches for 2 km. We climbed up the white salt-like mountain barefoot, because you’re not allowed to wear shoes, donned our bathing suits and soaked in the thermal hot waters. Not too long ago, a hotel sat at the top, and people rode bikes and motorcycles up and down the beautiful white travertine (limestone) hillside; use shampoo and soap to bathe in the springs and they noticed it was being destroyed. Today, security is in place to protect its natural beauty. For more information, visit: Bergama, Ephesus, and Pamakkule.
Returning to Big Sky following our tour, I received an email from my doctor with results from a biopsy done this past summer. I flew back to Calgary for emergency surgery after just 11 days in Turkey. Doug and Merrilee changed their vacation from an "easy sail in the Sea of Marmaras" to a full-out, 50 NM sail south with Con to help Con get Big Sky to a secure winter spot. They were troopers, sailing in rough seas, and stepping up to the First Mate tasks without a hint of complaint. I was disappointing to not continue our holiday together. The day I departed by ferry to Istanbul for my flight, I looked out the window at the angry sea feeling sorry for ANYBODY who had to be on the waters. Well, I didn't know it then, but learned that Doug, Merrilee, and Con left that day for their first leg of the journey south.
stoCon's solo sailing -- When Doug and Merrilee’s time aboard ended, Con sailed the last 70 NM to Kos, Greece, in a mad-dash to get secured before the big blow arrived. Thank goodness, because the next day, the wind blew 78 knots.
Meanwhile, I was in discussion with doctors about a pre-cancerous situation in my uterus that had to be removed. After a CT scan, they believed if it was cancer, it hadn’t gone any further (in other words, it hadn’t attached to the uterus wall). I met with my surgeon October 18th and a surgery date was set.
Con joined me in Canada just in time to drive me to my hysterectomy surgery. Once operated, I was assured there was no cancer, just a pre-cancer warning, but the surgeon took out everything, including lymph nodes! Unfortunately, following surgery I had a rough time with infection and as double trouble, I reacted badly to the medication and was rushed into the emergency ward. It was the best thing, because the doctor there diagnosed me with severe anemia and fixed me up with the right medication for my infection and iron. I’d lost a lot of weight and strength, but was set on the road to recovery. Con flew KLM to Big Sky in Greece and I returned via British Airways. We met at the hotel in front of the Athens airport where Con had checked us in for the night and I had what might have been the most comfortable sleep in a month.
December 16 – IN KOS
It felt glorious to be back aboard and picnicking on the stern of the boat in Greece's December sunshine. I joined a gym in Kos to work at getting my strength back, going every day.
December 19 – My 57th Birthday
Con, anxious to make a special birthday dinner for me turned on the oven, but it wasn't working due to the oven clock burning out. (Without the clock, the oven won't work.) We learned that afternoon how to dismantle an oven. We then called a man Con had hired for other jobs, and within two minutes he’d connected two of the dozen wires and by-passed the clock as we asked. No charge. He wished us a Merry Christmas. Con and I put the oven back together and soon the aroma of a delicious pork birthday dinner filled the boat.
December 21 -- The Kos Marina social scene is healthy and vibrant with lots of activities planned each week. We met three couples two years ago when we wintered in Messolonghi together. Christmas Eve, eleven people will get together in the Kos social room for a Scandinavian Christmas. Our contribution was smoked salmon with capers.
December 22 -- With the rain and wind in Kos, we mucked around making videos messages for our kids and grandkids for Christmas and the rest of the time I worked on my Toronto Boat Show presentation. I’d been invited to speak at the Toronto Boat Show in January as part of the promotion for my book, “Sailing Through Life”. Lindsey prepared a promotion poster for me and the Nautical Mind Book store is using it to promote my book. The store bought 100 books for resale at the show.
That night, we attended a beautiful Russian Ballet to a full audience in the full Kos auditorium. The Russian dancers arrived by helicopter, flying low over our boat.
December 26 -- We celebrated the Scandinavian Christmas on Christmas Eve, and a Greek Christmas Christmas Day with the cruisers from Denmark, Norway, Wales, Australia, France, and Greece. The marina decorated the hall for us Christmas eve arranging a beautiful table where everyone brought their traditional dish. I assumed everyone spoke at least three or five different languages, one person spoke eight, but thankfully, English was the language we all communicated in. We ate, drank, sang, danced, and played charades. Everyone brought a 5 euro valued gift and we did a fun gift exchange with the help of a dressed up Santa. I can't remember when we had such a great time in such a unique setting--sharing Christmas with people from around the world.
The marina staff and owners hosted us to a beautiful Christmas dinner, Greek style. Wonderful!
December 31 -- Best Wishes to everyone in 2012!
Click the links below for our trips to Iceland; and to the Middle East.
Meanwhile, I was in discussion with doctors about a pre-cancerous situation in my uterus that had to be removed. After a CT scan, they believed if it was cancer, it hadn’t gone any further (in other words, it hadn’t attached to the uterus wall). I met with my surgeon October 18th and a surgery date was set.
Con joined me in Canada just in time to drive me to my hysterectomy surgery. Once operated, I was assured there was no cancer, just a pre-cancer warning, but the surgeon took out everything, including lymph nodes! Unfortunately, following surgery I had a rough time with infection and as double trouble, I reacted badly to the medication and was rushed into the emergency ward. It was the best thing, because the doctor there diagnosed me with severe anemia and fixed me up with the right medication for my infection and iron. I’d lost a lot of weight and strength, but was set on the road to recovery. Con flew KLM to Big Sky in Greece and I returned via British Airways. We met at the hotel in front of the Athens airport where Con had checked us in for the night and I had what might have been the most comfortable sleep in a month.
December 16 – IN KOS
It felt glorious to be back aboard and picnicking on the stern of the boat in Greece's December sunshine. I joined a gym in Kos to work at getting my strength back, going every day.
December 19 – My 57th Birthday
Con, anxious to make a special birthday dinner for me turned on the oven, but it wasn't working due to the oven clock burning out. (Without the clock, the oven won't work.) We learned that afternoon how to dismantle an oven. We then called a man Con had hired for other jobs, and within two minutes he’d connected two of the dozen wires and by-passed the clock as we asked. No charge. He wished us a Merry Christmas. Con and I put the oven back together and soon the aroma of a delicious pork birthday dinner filled the boat.
December 21 -- The Kos Marina social scene is healthy and vibrant with lots of activities planned each week. We met three couples two years ago when we wintered in Messolonghi together. Christmas Eve, eleven people will get together in the Kos social room for a Scandinavian Christmas. Our contribution was smoked salmon with capers.
December 22 -- With the rain and wind in Kos, we mucked around making videos messages for our kids and grandkids for Christmas and the rest of the time I worked on my Toronto Boat Show presentation. I’d been invited to speak at the Toronto Boat Show in January as part of the promotion for my book, “Sailing Through Life”. Lindsey prepared a promotion poster for me and the Nautical Mind Book store is using it to promote my book. The store bought 100 books for resale at the show.
That night, we attended a beautiful Russian Ballet to a full audience in the full Kos auditorium. The Russian dancers arrived by helicopter, flying low over our boat.
December 26 -- We celebrated the Scandinavian Christmas on Christmas Eve, and a Greek Christmas Christmas Day with the cruisers from Denmark, Norway, Wales, Australia, France, and Greece. The marina decorated the hall for us Christmas eve arranging a beautiful table where everyone brought their traditional dish. I assumed everyone spoke at least three or five different languages, one person spoke eight, but thankfully, English was the language we all communicated in. We ate, drank, sang, danced, and played charades. Everyone brought a 5 euro valued gift and we did a fun gift exchange with the help of a dressed up Santa. I can't remember when we had such a great time in such a unique setting--sharing Christmas with people from around the world.
The marina staff and owners hosted us to a beautiful Christmas dinner, Greek style. Wonderful!
December 31 -- Best Wishes to everyone in 2012!
Click the links below for our trips to Iceland; and to the Middle East.
