Above: French Riot Police
Land trip in January from southern Portugal by car to Atlantic France, to the marker below in
Blanzac les Matha, France and back to Portugal. Also second land trip in February to The Netherlands and Southern France.
Pictured above: Our Valentine’s treat
Blanzac les Matha, France and back to Portugal. Also second land trip in February to The Netherlands and Southern France.
Pictured above: Our Valentine’s treat
January 10, 2019 -- We locked up Big Sky and set off on a land trip to Atlantic France leaving sunny Portugal in our rear view mirror. The shorts and t-shirt weather we were having was hard to give up for winter coats, scarves, and gloves in France, but we were determined to see parts of Atlantic France we'd missed when we crossed the Bay of Biscay in 2007. It was equally hard to give up the good diesel prices in Portugal and especially in Spain (but that depends on who's point of view). In Portugal, diesel per litre is 1.39 euro; 1.11 euro in Spain; and 1.71 euro in France. In Calgary, Canada it's 1.39 Canadian, (.91 euro cents). But again, maybe all thing even out. While driving on the beautiful Portuguese toll highway Con asked, "How much do you think it will cost?" I guessed 11 euro. Con guessed 8 euro. It was 30.80 euro!
We're excited to catch up with long-time friends Judy and Bruno who are just 1.50 hours inland from Bordeaux. They traded in their cruising lives for land life. Since we will be doing that at some point, we're curious to see how they have adjusted.
Below: Bordeaux’s Opera House and across the plaza a well protected table for outdoor eating in any climate. The church and Bridge over the Nive River in Bayonne. Surfers and hardy swimmers in Biarritz.
We're excited to catch up with long-time friends Judy and Bruno who are just 1.50 hours inland from Bordeaux. They traded in their cruising lives for land life. Since we will be doing that at some point, we're curious to see how they have adjusted.
Below: Bordeaux’s Opera House and across the plaza a well protected table for outdoor eating in any climate. The church and Bridge over the Nive River in Bayonne. Surfers and hardy swimmers in Biarritz.
Day One: we stopped in a small town south of Valladolid, a 14th century town, staying in what was once an 11th century monastery, now a charming hotel. Driving through the Castile and Leon area, we passed beautiful well-preserved castles and churches.
Day Two: Arriving in Biarritz, the San Tropez of Atlantic France we checked into our seaside hotel and toured the town. Biarritz has 6 km of the Bay of Biscay beach coast and we did our best to walk it all. Ocean temperature registered 12.8 but that didn't stop locals from swimming and most of them without wetsuits. Biarritz has become well known as a surfer’s paradise and there were plenty of surfers of all ages. We sat along the promenade sipping Coke Zeros watching them chase small-sized waves. There wasn’t much wind kicking up wave action. Biarritz is the place where people go who like to be seen. In fact, we passed Larry David, the American comedian who created the Jerry Seinfeld Show and stars in Curb Your Enthusiasm outside the luxury Hotel du Palais. The hotel was built in 1855 by Eugenie and Napoleon III shaped into the letter "E". It changed ownership, experienced fire, WWI and WWII, and reconstruction still retaining its “E” shaped integrity. For more information click on this link, www.unofficialroyalty.com/eugenie-de-montijo-empress-of-the-french/
Eugenie was wife to Napoléon III, who was related to Napoléon Bonaparte. Napoléon III was the first elected President of France.
Day 3: We drove on to Bayonne, in the French Basque Country, strolling the medieval part of the city stopping in front of the church for a quaint Petit Dejeuner (breakfast). It was delicious! We drove a few hours further to our rented apartment in Bordeaux where we booked in for three days. During our drive in France, we were shocked by the numbers of semi trucks on the highway, possibly 10 semis to 1 car!
The food in France as always leaves us salivating for more but it’s too much! The Plat du Jour (plate of the day) is three — first course, main, and dessert. With it we have the French bread because it is so good in France, and a bottle of rosé. We’ve had canard de confit (duck), tartar du bouef (raw beef), Creme brûlée, croissants, and quiche. We’re careful not to order the steak cheval (horse).
Day Two: Arriving in Biarritz, the San Tropez of Atlantic France we checked into our seaside hotel and toured the town. Biarritz has 6 km of the Bay of Biscay beach coast and we did our best to walk it all. Ocean temperature registered 12.8 but that didn't stop locals from swimming and most of them without wetsuits. Biarritz has become well known as a surfer’s paradise and there were plenty of surfers of all ages. We sat along the promenade sipping Coke Zeros watching them chase small-sized waves. There wasn’t much wind kicking up wave action. Biarritz is the place where people go who like to be seen. In fact, we passed Larry David, the American comedian who created the Jerry Seinfeld Show and stars in Curb Your Enthusiasm outside the luxury Hotel du Palais. The hotel was built in 1855 by Eugenie and Napoleon III shaped into the letter "E". It changed ownership, experienced fire, WWI and WWII, and reconstruction still retaining its “E” shaped integrity. For more information click on this link, www.unofficialroyalty.com/eugenie-de-montijo-empress-of-the-french/
Eugenie was wife to Napoléon III, who was related to Napoléon Bonaparte. Napoléon III was the first elected President of France.
Day 3: We drove on to Bayonne, in the French Basque Country, strolling the medieval part of the city stopping in front of the church for a quaint Petit Dejeuner (breakfast). It was delicious! We drove a few hours further to our rented apartment in Bordeaux where we booked in for three days. During our drive in France, we were shocked by the numbers of semi trucks on the highway, possibly 10 semis to 1 car!
The food in France as always leaves us salivating for more but it’s too much! The Plat du Jour (plate of the day) is three — first course, main, and dessert. With it we have the French bread because it is so good in France, and a bottle of rosé. We’ve had canard de confit (duck), tartar du bouef (raw beef), Creme brûlée, croissants, and quiche. We’re careful not to order the steak cheval (horse).
January 11 — Above is the Plase de la Bourse, a Bordeaux landmark less than 100 meters (up the street right of the picture) from our fourth floor apartment. It was here in this square that the French Revolution destroyed the statue of King Louie XV in 1730 replacing it years later with the “Three Graces” you see in the centre. Appropriately January 12th, the Yellow Vests gathered here in the thousands to begin their protest march through the city. More on that below. It’s a stunning-looking part of Bordeaux, and more so when the water feature is working. Water sprays a mist covering the ground making an ankle deep pool they call the “Water Mirror”.
Bordeaux was made famous centuries ago for its wine excellence. Walking further along the promenade, we followed La Garonne river well out of pace with its fast flow toward the Atlantic arriving at La Cite du Vin, a wine museum. From the moment we entered this unique cultural centre, our six senses were introduced to the history of wine around the world. Our journey brought us creatively through the centuries. Afterward, we were invited to the 8th floor for 360 view of the city and our taste buds were introduced to a glass of wine of our choosing.
Below: the La Cite du Vin, and Con walking the promenade.
Bordeaux was made famous centuries ago for its wine excellence. Walking further along the promenade, we followed La Garonne river well out of pace with its fast flow toward the Atlantic arriving at La Cite du Vin, a wine museum. From the moment we entered this unique cultural centre, our six senses were introduced to the history of wine around the world. Our journey brought us creatively through the centuries. Afterward, we were invited to the 8th floor for 360 view of the city and our taste buds were introduced to a glass of wine of our choosing.
Below: the La Cite du Vin, and Con walking the promenade.
January 12, 2019 — Saturday's Yellow Vest Protest march in Bordeaux started out peacefully. It was the ninth Yellow Vest protest in France. Con and I walked (according to my FitBit 21,000 steps) around the city. Sales are everywhere and the streets are wall-to-wall with shoppers with arms full of bags. The shops are outdoors, with coffee shops and brassiere’s scattered throughout. As the day progressed, so did the barricades as the police in combat gear set up van blockades, tall barricades, laid out hose, and huddled throughout the city getting ready for the 1 pm start. The designer shops nailed up wooden hurricane window and door covers. Some shops, like Louis Vuitton hung vandalism-proof strong iron mesh with reinforced bars. Con and I raised our eyebrows on that one, wondering what was to come. When the trams stopped running, we followed the trail of waiting police Gendarme standing casually with tear-gas guns held horizontally in their arms. “How will it go?” Con asked in French. They gave a half smile and shrug. We stopped along the pending route for lunch in the Opera House square watching the police. We heard commotion not far, paid our bill and walked to the Plase de la Bourse where thousands were gathering. (Later the French ministry said there were 5,000 in Bordeaux, but Con and my amateur guess was 10,000+ and that was NOT counting the shoppers still bopping in and out of the shops not on the march route). When the shot was fired, the march began. Con and I took a short-cut to situate ourselves near our lunch location. There we had to jump out of the way as the Gendarme we’re pushing their riot van forward and backward to jump start it. They’d run out the battery sitting inside with the heaters going. (Video below.)
The grass-roots Yellow Vest protests has moved across France as citizens express their need for economic change and justice over President Macron's policies, specifically the carbon tax. Con hoisted me up on a barrier where I could film the march (video below). Once we had our fill, we returned to the apartment for a cup of tea. The crowd moved on to Cathedral square, the closest they could get to City Hall when all hell broke lose. The Gendarme had to unleash their hoses, shoot tear gas, and use their bobby sticks at the crowd. Hooligans and disgruntled people threw rocks at them, broke windows, threw lit flares and firecrackers and set fires.
After watching it on TV, we returned to the scene of the violence to see the smoldering fires and broken glass and destruction. Click here and here.
The grass-roots Yellow Vest protests has moved across France as citizens express their need for economic change and justice over President Macron's policies, specifically the carbon tax. Con hoisted me up on a barrier where I could film the march (video below). Once we had our fill, we returned to the apartment for a cup of tea. The crowd moved on to Cathedral square, the closest they could get to City Hall when all hell broke lose. The Gendarme had to unleash their hoses, shoot tear gas, and use their bobby sticks at the crowd. Hooligans and disgruntled people threw rocks at them, broke windows, threw lit flares and firecrackers and set fires.
After watching it on TV, we returned to the scene of the violence to see the smoldering fires and broken glass and destruction. Click here and here.
|
|
|
January 14-- Checking out of our lovely apartment in Bordeaux, we set our GPS routing to the beautiful village of Blanzac les Matha, in western France, population just over 300, and arrived midday at Judy and Bruno's lovely country home. From the moment we entered their gated property we experienced the pleasures of country living with song birds filling our ears, and winter flowers framed by the gorgeous stone barns teasing our eyes. Judy provided for our every comfort and Bruno (the French chef) spoiling us with the most delicious foods, all complimented with French wines and scrumptious cheeses. Our friendship with Judy and Bruno goes back to 2011 when we shared a winter season together in the Kos Marina. Ever since, we have either joined each other in various towns, cities, and anchorages and kept in regular contact thanks to the internet. For our first day together, Judy led us on a delightful walk through the village. Bruno stayed behind nursing his new knee, just two months post surgery. The second day, we drove to a few near-by villages enjoying the French countryside. That afternoon, the four of us visited a family-run Cognac brewery for a private tour and tasting arranged by Bruno. Con couldn't resist the delicious cognac and purchase the most expensive bottle, along with the pleasing cognac-grape-based wine. As a thank you gift, the proprietor offered us a second aperitif bottle both to Bruno and Judy and to us. We said our "good byes" on the third day all the while believing we'd have more opportunities for visits in our future.
January 17 — Since Con is the only legal driver on this rental, he's delivered us safely over three countries and back putting on 3,500 kilometers. Spying a few houses of interest in Ayamonte Spain, and Taviara, Portugal, we secured tours with agents for Saturday. That meant a full day's drive to Salamanca yesterday, and another full day to Taviara today. Yesterday was tough, since we seemed to be driving at the same pace as a wet weather system, along with a stream of semi trucks taking up one and two lanes of the (at times) three lane highways. They reminded me of processionary caterpillars. Tailgating seems to be the norm, and that includes the trucks! At one point, we were tied up on the highway when three semi trucks smashed into each other grill to tail to grill to tail. Salamanca is a pretty Spanish city, but the temperatures and the long driving day kept us inside our hotel room, only leaving to step into the hotel restaurant for dinner.
Arriving in Ayamonte during siesta we missed an opportunity with the real estate office about a particular property of interest. Later we learned that a viewing while we're here is not possible. Tomorrow morning (Saturday) we have two properties to view in Taviara. The two cities (Ayamonte and Tavira) are about 25 minutes apart by car, separated by the Spanish - Portuguese border and by the Guadiana River. Ayamonte is Spanish.
We're staying in a boutique hotel, which is actually a luxury home converted. It's situated high above the town giving us a spectacular view of the city with the river running down its centre. The town shook to the ground in 1755 with an earthquake that some believe registered 8.5 to 9 on the scale. It's the same enormous earthquake that shook Lisbon and created the fire that destroyed nearly all of that city. Like Lisbon, it was rebuilt in the 18th century. Below: Tavira panorama borrowed from the internet.
Our dinner was fabulous, at a small restaurant recommended by man running the boutique hotel, called D’Gusta. Below is a photo of one of the small dishes, Tuna Tartar, and a shot of the guests inside. In the morning, we met Sandra from Land and Houses Algarve, who took us to view two properties in the area. The next morning, we drove back to Big Sky feeling confident that we’ll identify the country and type of house we’d like to live in for our next segment in life.
Arriving in Ayamonte during siesta we missed an opportunity with the real estate office about a particular property of interest. Later we learned that a viewing while we're here is not possible. Tomorrow morning (Saturday) we have two properties to view in Taviara. The two cities (Ayamonte and Tavira) are about 25 minutes apart by car, separated by the Spanish - Portuguese border and by the Guadiana River. Ayamonte is Spanish.
We're staying in a boutique hotel, which is actually a luxury home converted. It's situated high above the town giving us a spectacular view of the city with the river running down its centre. The town shook to the ground in 1755 with an earthquake that some believe registered 8.5 to 9 on the scale. It's the same enormous earthquake that shook Lisbon and created the fire that destroyed nearly all of that city. Like Lisbon, it was rebuilt in the 18th century. Below: Tavira panorama borrowed from the internet.
Our dinner was fabulous, at a small restaurant recommended by man running the boutique hotel, called D’Gusta. Below is a photo of one of the small dishes, Tuna Tartar, and a shot of the guests inside. In the morning, we met Sandra from Land and Houses Algarve, who took us to view two properties in the area. The next morning, we drove back to Big Sky feeling confident that we’ll identify the country and type of house we’d like to live in for our next segment in life.
NETHERLANDS AND THE FRENCH RIVIERA
February 2 — Con and I flew to The Netherlands a few days ago to spend time with family, tucking in with Albertine in Hillversum for a week. Five of Con’s brothers and sisters live in The Netherlands and will gather today along with spouses. First we’ll lunch at Albertine’s followed by a trip to Utrecht for a guided foot tour. Weather is promising to be “winter like”, so we’ll be wearing two pairs of pants, double up our socks, etc. Afterward, we’ll gather at Geert’s and Loes’ for a drink, and then head to a restaurant for dinner. Loes’ mom passed away two days ago at the age of 99. There will be a funeral next week, celebrating a long life.
February 2 — Con and I flew to The Netherlands a few days ago to spend time with family, tucking in with Albertine in Hillversum for a week. Five of Con’s brothers and sisters live in The Netherlands and will gather today along with spouses. First we’ll lunch at Albertine’s followed by a trip to Utrecht for a guided foot tour. Weather is promising to be “winter like”, so we’ll be wearing two pairs of pants, double up our socks, etc. Afterward, we’ll gather at Geert’s and Loes’ for a drink, and then head to a restaurant for dinner. Loes’ mom passed away two days ago at the age of 99. There will be a funeral next week, celebrating a long life.
February 2 -- The family (Anna, Willem, Albertine, Jan and Anne-Marie, Con and I) gathered at Albertine’s for lunch, and then went to Utrecht by train (except Willem) for a walking tour of the old city. Utrecht is the mini Amsterdam of The Netherlands in architecture and has been a religious center since the 8th century. We walked through the medieval streets, viewed the 14th century Dom Tower, 100 meters tall, learned some religious history and culture, about The Reform, and the hurricane that took down many brick houses and homes (in front of the Dom Tower). Weather was for the hardy, with temperatures around zero with some rain a wind. Following our tour, we thawed out at Loes and Geert’s with a drink, and then carried on to a restaurant by the marina for a delicious dinner.
February 3 -- Tagging along with Albertine and a friend, we went to the beautiful Amsterdam Concert Hall for an hour of classical music performed live by a visiting orchestra from Germany. It was a spectacular show! Our seats were behind the orchestra, but excellent giving us a fascinating view of the female conductor in action. We walked through Vondel Park, a glorious inner city park in Amsterdam where both the wildlife and people can enjoy the surroundings. Dogs too!
House hunting in Southern France.
February 10 — We arrived in Nice a few days ago, and drove our rental car to the historic town of Saint Paul de Vence, once the oldest medieval town on the French Riveria. The area is a mosaic of hills and rocky outcrops and Saint Paul de Vence sits 180 meters above on what my imagination conjures as the castle where Jack from Jack and the Bean Stock had his adventures. Our apartment was the nicest place we’ve had the pleasure of staying in while traveling. Every convenience was provided, including a full fridge of food, every sort of drink from orange juice, milk, to beer and wine. The first night, we enjoyed a delicious meal at La Colombe d’Or, the place where artists such as Picasso and Miro hung out, and paid their bills at times in paintings. The second night, we scrambled the eggs with ham and Gouda cheese (provided by Luke, our apartment host). Our two days were jammed packed with house viewings, and driving around the sunny Côte d’Azur area to get a sense of what it would be like living here. Weather is glorious. Yesterday, we drove to Mandelieu la Napoule and had lunch in Judy and Bruno’s former restaurant. Afterward, we walked to the marina to enquire about an annual contract for Big Sky. “Sure” the marina rep said, “I’ll put your name on the list. It’s a 4 to 5 year wait.”
We carried on to check into our apartment overlooking the Mediterranean and a small marina. We unlocked our apartment and stepped onto marble floor that seems to be floating on a cloud. There are floor to ceiling windows facing south, north and east, but not much beyond that. Very sparse with furniture, there isn’t even a toilet roll holder. The roll sits on the floor.
Below: the outside of our apartment in St. Paul de Vence, and the beautifully decorated inside, including the gorgeous bouquet of flowers. By the way, Richard Gere stayed there while filming a commercial.
We carried on to check into our apartment overlooking the Mediterranean and a small marina. We unlocked our apartment and stepped onto marble floor that seems to be floating on a cloud. There are floor to ceiling windows facing south, north and east, but not much beyond that. Very sparse with furniture, there isn’t even a toilet roll holder. The roll sits on the floor.
Below: the outside of our apartment in St. Paul de Vence, and the beautifully decorated inside, including the gorgeous bouquet of flowers. By the way, Richard Gere stayed there while filming a commercial.
Below: Mandelieu la Napoule.
February 13 — Continuing our search for the “Just Right” house and community in Southern France, we have identified what we would love, what price to pay, and we’re closing in on the community. Yesterday, our mission was to find a marina nearby for Big Sky, to put our beautiful home on the water up for sale. This area has waiting lists that reach a few years, however, we haven’t researched everywhere yet.
Two nights ago, we booked into a beautiful looking apartment for the night (and it was). While Con waited to receive parking instructions, I went to the desk to check in. Turns out the desk was manned by nurses! Around me, old people with walkers, wheelchairs, and canes made their way passed me to the cafeteria. Turns out, we were booked into a Nursing Home. The next day, we booked into another apartment, this one in Mougins. It’s beautiful. I’m typing this sitting on the veranda over the pool, with song birds singing in the background.
Two nights ago, we booked into a beautiful looking apartment for the night (and it was). While Con waited to receive parking instructions, I went to the desk to check in. Turns out the desk was manned by nurses! Around me, old people with walkers, wheelchairs, and canes made their way passed me to the cafeteria. Turns out, we were booked into a Nursing Home. The next day, we booked into another apartment, this one in Mougins. It’s beautiful. I’m typing this sitting on the veranda over the pool, with song birds singing in the background.
We drove an hour from Mougins to the Italian border to the pretty French town of Menton. Stopping at the Menton marina, pictured behind Con, above, we enquired about an annual contract and were informed with a sympathetic smile, “Ten year waiting list”. All the marina’s have long waiting lists, so we haven’t tackled that little issue yet. After a coffee in the sunny square near the marina, we got back in our rental and followed the blue Mediterranean west again, driving into Monte Carlo, Monaco and then nearly straight up and above the coastal city to get to the highway. In the picture of Monte Carlo you can’t see our route, but it was a series of “z’s” to the top. You just can’t beat this weather. The sky is blue, spring has sprung with trees, shrubs, and flowers in full colour. February 14th, our last day in the area, we have one more house to view in the hills overlooking Nice. It promises a sea view. Our flight to Lisbon leaves early afternoon.
Below: The Cote d'Azure area of France. Picture compliments Sylvie, a real estate agent in Saint Raphael.